Steering Problems

Ok, last week my car started making a horrible grinding type sound whenever I would turn. Got harder to steer as well... so no big deal I thought. Power steering pump is shot, just replace it. So I do... fire it back up. Noise is still there and then I find a busted pressure hose. Ok... after scraping up my knuckles for a few days I give up and find a way to replace the bad section of the hose with a new one instead of taking it to a mechanic. Well, no leak now but still got the horrible noise though my steering is back to pretty smooth and easy...

My question is, did something completely screw up in my rack and pinion assembly or something? Im not a mechanic, I can make my way around with a Haynes or Chilton though...

The drivability has returned since I rigged the hose (cut off the metal connecter, cut back a bit on the metal and rubber pipes, then flared the end and clamped it all back together) but the noise is still there and it has me worried. I need my car to get around, etc and it seems to be ok to drive (took it around the block real quick) but I dunno if its a good idea or not with the awful noise its making whenever I turn.

Anyone got any suggestions that I could try out?

Did you turn the wheel from side to side to work the air out? Don't go all the way to the stops though.

Yeah, I did for abit. Still doing it :\

what are you using for, fluid? ATF or regular PS fluid?
dont even try ATF...

using regular ATF in the newer rack and pinion steering will screw up the valves in the rack as John is stating see atf can burn and lose its lubrication qualities where as power steering fluid has a much longer life and although it will burn up ,,it is nothing like atf and will lube all the valves better in the rack assy.I have seen mechanics put laqeur thinner into there racks for about ten minutes to clean tarnish off the valves but you have to undo the low pressure side and drain it completely and then flush it out and put power sterring fluid back into it and this may cure your problem.If not the rack needs to be replaced to stop the winning sounds.

Regular Power Steering Fluid... would never put ATF in there.

I have a more pressing issue now however. My "rigging" isn't holding together to well. Went for a test drive yesterday and when I got all the way to the left stop while turning, the hose blew off again. Noone around here seems to sell HP clamps and regular ones don't seem to wanna work.

Any idea's since I cant find out how to get to the low side of the hose to actually replace the whole thing (pressure line)?

Hell, even a walkthrough as to how to drop the R&P down so I can get enough clearance to turn a wrench would work. I just need my car back in working order :(

to get the rack out you need to drop the back of the subframe a little ,,this involves taking the steering loose from the coupler or spline going to the jack shaft or steering shaft and you should drop exhaust as well but once you loosen 2 rear subframe bolts and undo the jack shaft you should be able to get in there with a line wrench and get to the fitting to replace the pressure line,,,if it is cut on a metal section or you can get it cut on a metal section of the line then you can get a compression fitting and go from there but I suggest you replace the hole line,,it isnt gonna be fun,,good luck!

Regular Power Steering Fluid... would never put ATF in there.

I have a more pressing issue now however. My "rigging" isn't holding together to well. Went for a test drive yesterday and when I got all the way to the left stop while turning, the hose blew off again. Noone around here seems to sell HP clamps and regular ones don't seem to wanna work.

Any idea's since I cant find out how to get to the low side of the hose to actually replace the whole thing (pressure line)?

Hell, even a walkthrough as to how to drop the R&P down so I can get enough clearance to turn a wrench would work. I just need my car back in working order :(

I put a new rack in mine and it wasnt that hard with the rear of the frame dropped a few inches, I also unbolted the PS pump, took the belt off, and let the pump "fall" behind engine, was much easier to get to the pump hose connections, hardest thing was the plastic protective boot and shaft coupler going back on the steering shaft. BUT.. I have a 2.5 engine in mine so your access may be different

Ok, I sorta get the idea of dropping the R&P down but like I said. I'm not a mechanic and none of this is in my Haynes manual so I dunno what all this stuff looks like.

Where do I loosen the steering shaft from the R&P so I can drop this thing down and get this problem corrected?

Ok, I sorta get the idea of dropping the R&P down but like I said. I'm not a mechanic and none of this is in my Haynes manual so I dunno what all this stuff looks like.

Where do I loosen the steering shaft from the R&P so I can drop this thing down and get this problem corrected?

What you will be dropping is the frame of the car that the engine/tranny, and rack is bolted on. It is attached by 4 bolts, 2 each side of car , one front of engine, one behind engine. On mine i put a jack under the rear of frame below the rack, took out the 2 REAR bolts, one each side, let the pump drop behind engine ( if you arent replacing lines, no need to drop pump, just remove lines from rack) on drivers side, find where the steering shaft comes down thru floor, under car on shaft there is a boot you have to pop "up" to get access to the pinch bolt that holds the racks stub shaft to the shaft that goes up thru floor to the steering wheel. remove pinch bolt completly, as you lower fame the stub shaft should slip out of the pinch clamp, watch it as you lower frame making sure it doesnt bind and catch. As for that much, installation is just reversal of removal.
When lowering rack/frame, watch engine/tranny/hoses/etc and dont go so far as to break or stretch anything. When i did mine, access was improved 100% with a few inches of drop.(about 4 inches i guess)
Hardest part is jacking up frame with new rack in place and getting stub shaft up into pinch clamp again, make sure it goes in as frame is lifted back up. It should slide in easily if it is indexed right, only goes in clamp ONE WAY.
Make absouletly sure this is together right or you will loose steering control if it comes apart while driving.
Oh, if lines arent long enough to lower frame enough, you still can drop pump some to get the drop needed. When i bought my new pressure hose it was a tad shorter than original too, it "just reached" with pump and rack mounted. So watch you dont kink it. I would attach line to rack, then jack frame up and bolt it down, then put line on pump, and remount pump.
But remember, if you have a v6 i cant swear to anything as i did it on mine with a 4 cylinder, lots more room behind engine.

i had the same problem when i changed my power steering assembly. after a few days of driving the noise just worked itself out. :)