'94 Tranny won't shift out of low
CobraCDN
08-06-2005, 10:45 PM
Well when it rains it pours I guess lol.
Driving on the highway today had the cruise set, and all of a sudden it was if the tranny had shifted itself into nuetral. I caught it right away as the RPMs of course rose considerabley and hit the brake to dissengage the cruise. as we slowed to about 60Kms/Hr (about 40 miles/Hr) the tranny went into low, by itself. It will not shift up from low now. Reverse works well, low works well also. Fluid is clean.. real clean, No noises, no slipage, no smells, car has 176,000Kms on it, prior to this instance the upshifting was normal. This car has never been driven hard and has been well taken care of. Seems to me maybe a module. Perhaps the Tranny control module or also called eatx I think?
Reason I think this is I heard of an Intrepid same symptoms, and the dealership replaced the module in 10 mins and he drove it away. all was fine.
I sorta fear taking it into a dealer, as they seem to be known for replacing a little to much in a lot of cases. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers
Driving on the highway today had the cruise set, and all of a sudden it was if the tranny had shifted itself into nuetral. I caught it right away as the RPMs of course rose considerabley and hit the brake to dissengage the cruise. as we slowed to about 60Kms/Hr (about 40 miles/Hr) the tranny went into low, by itself. It will not shift up from low now. Reverse works well, low works well also. Fluid is clean.. real clean, No noises, no slipage, no smells, car has 176,000Kms on it, prior to this instance the upshifting was normal. This car has never been driven hard and has been well taken care of. Seems to me maybe a module. Perhaps the Tranny control module or also called eatx I think?
Reason I think this is I heard of an Intrepid same symptoms, and the dealership replaced the module in 10 mins and he drove it away. all was fine.
I sorta fear taking it into a dealer, as they seem to be known for replacing a little to much in a lot of cases. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers
theFREAKnasty82
08-08-2005, 01:22 AM
your car is in limp mode, where it won't shift out of second gear once it has detected an electrical fault. Did your speedometer ever quit working? If it did, your problem lies in that you have a faulty output speed sensor. If you can, try to old key method to see if there are any codes that came up by turning the key on/off 3xs ending in the on position the check engine light will flash, if it flashes twice then pauses then flashes another 4xs that's a code 24. If you need a definition as to what the code means, go here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=355082).
CobraCDN
08-08-2005, 09:10 AM
No engine codes come up. There are however codes in the TCM which I can not retrieve. I cleared them by dissconnecting the battery for 10 mins. The result was the car ran fine.. tranny shifted fine. for a time about 80 kms. Then back to limp mode it went. The speedo never quit working. Is there any way for me to tell if the Solonoid assemmbly is at fault? Where is it? Easily changed? Oh and I did switch out the eatx relay with a known good relay, no change.
FREAKnasty your not Longknife from the HH chat rooms from days gone by are U?
Cheers
FREAKnasty your not Longknife from the HH chat rooms from days gone by are U?
Cheers
theFREAKnasty82
08-09-2005, 12:58 AM
[QUOTE=FREAKnasty your not Longknife from the HH chat rooms from days gone by are U?
Cheers[/QUOTE]
No my friend, I am not. To be honest, I don't go on too many chat rooms, just don't have time to sit in front of a computer for hours and talk.
To change out your solenoid pack is not easy as it involves you removing the transmission oil pan, and valve body to gain access to the solenoid pack. Honestly, go to a shop and have them check that out, personally a Chrysler dealer. At dealers, we have the Chrysler DRB III scan tool that can test your solenoids for any malfunctions that can occur. I'd strongly recommend that, though it's somewhat pricey, at least a factory-trained tech can narrow down the problem instead of a backyard mechanic hitting & missing trying to fix your problem.
Cheers[/QUOTE]
No my friend, I am not. To be honest, I don't go on too many chat rooms, just don't have time to sit in front of a computer for hours and talk.
To change out your solenoid pack is not easy as it involves you removing the transmission oil pan, and valve body to gain access to the solenoid pack. Honestly, go to a shop and have them check that out, personally a Chrysler dealer. At dealers, we have the Chrysler DRB III scan tool that can test your solenoids for any malfunctions that can occur. I'd strongly recommend that, though it's somewhat pricey, at least a factory-trained tech can narrow down the problem instead of a backyard mechanic hitting & missing trying to fix your problem.
CobraCDN
08-09-2005, 08:36 AM
Thx, I'll take it to Chrysler today. I had cleared the codes again (2nd time) so I hope it will fault again on the way, or we will maybe drive it around untill it does lol. I'll post back when we know something. Thx for your help :)
Cheers
Cheers
Mira_cz
08-21-2005, 04:34 AM
please write how it goes. I have the same problem with my Concorde. I bought new tranny and it started with limp mode same way as previous. It helps to start and swich off engine several times (4 times mostly) and it runs well whole day (when car is warmed up).
CobraCDN
08-21-2005, 10:01 AM
I did take it to the dealer. I had cleared the codes by dissconnecting the battery for 10 mins, which brought the tranny out of limp mode and it ran as normal, shifting great like it had before. One problem with that.. the dealer could not get any results from scanning for codes, as I wiped it all out. Apparently these computers keep info from the last 50 starts in memory. On top of that it did not go back into limp mode after putting about 200Kms on it. So to the dealer, all seemed fine.
So with the information I had researched, and a lot of advice from Freaknasty here :) (Thx bro) I got the dealer to flush the tranny install a new filter and put in ATF +4 fluid. ATF+3 would be ok but I figured may as well go with the best. ATF+4 is a synthetic hybred fluid I believe.
I now have just about 1000Kms since the fluid change and all is well. We're pretty much back to trusting the car for a long trip again. I'm suspecting the last owner of this car (We've only had it a month or so) may have had the fluid changed, and maybe did not have the correct fluid in it.. as these transaxles are apparently very picky that way.
I'll repeat FREAKnasty's advice on this one folks, take the thing to the dealer in limp mode and have them do a scan. Don't erase the fault codes! The dealer here charged $50 Canadian to perform the scan. Normally with stored codes in the TCM it would be worth the $50. Tranmission flush and ATF+4 (Most expensive fluid lol) came to about $200.00. They will not force you to do anything more if they scan & find fault with something. lol.
If it fails again I'll post the info.
Cheers
So with the information I had researched, and a lot of advice from Freaknasty here :) (Thx bro) I got the dealer to flush the tranny install a new filter and put in ATF +4 fluid. ATF+3 would be ok but I figured may as well go with the best. ATF+4 is a synthetic hybred fluid I believe.
I now have just about 1000Kms since the fluid change and all is well. We're pretty much back to trusting the car for a long trip again. I'm suspecting the last owner of this car (We've only had it a month or so) may have had the fluid changed, and maybe did not have the correct fluid in it.. as these transaxles are apparently very picky that way.
I'll repeat FREAKnasty's advice on this one folks, take the thing to the dealer in limp mode and have them do a scan. Don't erase the fault codes! The dealer here charged $50 Canadian to perform the scan. Normally with stored codes in the TCM it would be worth the $50. Tranmission flush and ATF+4 (Most expensive fluid lol) came to about $200.00. They will not force you to do anything more if they scan & find fault with something. lol.
If it fails again I'll post the info.
Cheers
CobraCDN
08-21-2005, 01:39 PM
Well it happened again... this time it went into limp mode about 1000Kms after the last time. Nothing out of the odrdinary.. ran fine parked it, this morning it was locked into second again when my wife took it out.
Sooooo, where to go from here. Could take it back to the dealer and get them to again scan it for another $50... Thing is I'm thinking it is not mechanical, meaning probably not the solenoid pack. Speedo is still working ok so not the speed sensors either. I guess this leaves the TCM (Transmission Control Module) or a communication prob (lose plug). Things that really baffles me is the shifting is nice, even the mechanic at the dealer said it's shifting perfectly when not in limp mode, and the fact that the amount of Kilometers driven between is very erratic... 200K one time then over 1000K this last time.
Does anyone know if the dealers can simply test the TCM regardless of wether it has stored codes or not? Is there some sort of diagnostic that can do this? My gut keeps telling me it's a faulty TCM.
Cheers
Sooooo, where to go from here. Could take it back to the dealer and get them to again scan it for another $50... Thing is I'm thinking it is not mechanical, meaning probably not the solenoid pack. Speedo is still working ok so not the speed sensors either. I guess this leaves the TCM (Transmission Control Module) or a communication prob (lose plug). Things that really baffles me is the shifting is nice, even the mechanic at the dealer said it's shifting perfectly when not in limp mode, and the fact that the amount of Kilometers driven between is very erratic... 200K one time then over 1000K this last time.
Does anyone know if the dealers can simply test the TCM regardless of wether it has stored codes or not? Is there some sort of diagnostic that can do this? My gut keeps telling me it's a faulty TCM.
Cheers
theFREAKnasty82
08-22-2005, 12:04 AM
Cobra,
If you want to venture back to the dealer ask them to check the CVI (Clutch Volume Index). Ask them also for readings as to what they are here's what's normal CVI readings for your car:
Low/Reverse= 35 to 85
Overdrive= 75 to 150
Second-fourth= 20 to 77
Underdrive= 24 to 70
If the numbers are on the higher end, your clutch packs are worn and a transmission rebuild is more than likely. A Chrysler tech who checks transmission issues can check the solenoid pack manually by activating each solenoid. I think your problem may be that you need to have your TCM flash programmed. Flashing a module will update its operating parameters and correct any inconsistencies that may lie inside the module. I'd strongly suggest giving that a shot, slightly cheaper to do that then replace the TCM altogether.
If you want to venture back to the dealer ask them to check the CVI (Clutch Volume Index). Ask them also for readings as to what they are here's what's normal CVI readings for your car:
Low/Reverse= 35 to 85
Overdrive= 75 to 150
Second-fourth= 20 to 77
Underdrive= 24 to 70
If the numbers are on the higher end, your clutch packs are worn and a transmission rebuild is more than likely. A Chrysler tech who checks transmission issues can check the solenoid pack manually by activating each solenoid. I think your problem may be that you need to have your TCM flash programmed. Flashing a module will update its operating parameters and correct any inconsistencies that may lie inside the module. I'd strongly suggest giving that a shot, slightly cheaper to do that then replace the TCM altogether.
CobraCDN
08-22-2005, 02:38 PM
Ok, I found a TCM at another dealer an hour away, for some reason their price on it was $60 cheaper then any other chrysler dealer I called, and I've been wanting to pin this whole prob on the TCM from the start. I dunno why, I just did lol, so I went and grabbed it :) $327 CAD taxes included.
It is installed as of this morning, I took it for a quick ride (only about 8 Kms) and it seems fine again. Speedo works so I assume that I do not have to take it back to the dealer for a "Learning" procedure from a DRB. If it goes back into limp mode again . I'll have to take it back to the dealer, as I believe the only other possibility is the solenoid pack. I had read of another concorde driver that got a faulty solenoid fault code from the TCM, he got the solenoid pack replaced and the car did the same thing, back into limp mode. They replaced the TCM and he has not had a prob since. Seeing that I had already got the tranny flushed and ATF +4 put in, I hated to take it back to the dealer for fear I would be replacing solenoid pack for nothing and losing the new oil.
We will see.. time will tell lol Thx FREAKnasty, as soon as I saw you willing to blame the TCM I jumped on that hehehehe. I'll post back in a week or so and let you know whats happening, or sooner if it fails again.
Cheers
It is installed as of this morning, I took it for a quick ride (only about 8 Kms) and it seems fine again. Speedo works so I assume that I do not have to take it back to the dealer for a "Learning" procedure from a DRB. If it goes back into limp mode again . I'll have to take it back to the dealer, as I believe the only other possibility is the solenoid pack. I had read of another concorde driver that got a faulty solenoid fault code from the TCM, he got the solenoid pack replaced and the car did the same thing, back into limp mode. They replaced the TCM and he has not had a prob since. Seeing that I had already got the tranny flushed and ATF +4 put in, I hated to take it back to the dealer for fear I would be replacing solenoid pack for nothing and losing the new oil.
We will see.. time will tell lol Thx FREAKnasty, as soon as I saw you willing to blame the TCM I jumped on that hehehehe. I'll post back in a week or so and let you know whats happening, or sooner if it fails again.
Cheers
CobraCDN
08-22-2005, 03:14 PM
please write how it goes. I have the same problem with my Concorde. I bought new tranny and it started with limp mode same way as previous. It helps to start and swich off engine several times (4 times mostly) and it runs well whole day (when car is warmed up).
This does not seem to be the same prob as mine. I have the original tranny in mine.Once in limp mode it stayed in limp mode untill i cleared the codes from the TCM. I did this by dissconnecting the battery for 10 mins. You may want to try this and see if anything changes. You will however wipe all stored codes in the TCM, so the dealer will not be able to scan for any untill the faults have repeated themselves. Or take it to the dealer and get them to read the codes. Then have them clear the codes and test drive the car. This way they will have the info the TCM is holding. As freaknasty says above, you can also get the TCM flashed with the latest firmware.
One thing, it is reccommended that if you replace your Transaxle, TCM (Transmission Control Module or EATX), Solenoid Pack, Clutchplate and/or Seal replacement, valve Body replacement or Reconditioning of the Valve Body, that you get a Quick Learn Procedure done on the TCM. This is done by use of the DRB Scan tool the dealers have.
I assume your car is in Limp mode? Nothing but second gear for forward motion? I don't think it should be so intermitant in and out of limp mode, I've read forums all over and have not seen that anywheres.
I would speculate you may have a communication problem/wiring problem, check your connections. Did it shift properly at all after the new tranny was installed? Who installed the tranny?
Cheers
This does not seem to be the same prob as mine. I have the original tranny in mine.Once in limp mode it stayed in limp mode untill i cleared the codes from the TCM. I did this by dissconnecting the battery for 10 mins. You may want to try this and see if anything changes. You will however wipe all stored codes in the TCM, so the dealer will not be able to scan for any untill the faults have repeated themselves. Or take it to the dealer and get them to read the codes. Then have them clear the codes and test drive the car. This way they will have the info the TCM is holding. As freaknasty says above, you can also get the TCM flashed with the latest firmware.
One thing, it is reccommended that if you replace your Transaxle, TCM (Transmission Control Module or EATX), Solenoid Pack, Clutchplate and/or Seal replacement, valve Body replacement or Reconditioning of the Valve Body, that you get a Quick Learn Procedure done on the TCM. This is done by use of the DRB Scan tool the dealers have.
I assume your car is in Limp mode? Nothing but second gear for forward motion? I don't think it should be so intermitant in and out of limp mode, I've read forums all over and have not seen that anywheres.
I would speculate you may have a communication problem/wiring problem, check your connections. Did it shift properly at all after the new tranny was installed? Who installed the tranny?
Cheers
theFREAKnasty82
08-22-2005, 04:56 PM
Cobra,
you are correct my friend. It's best to check the connections going to the TCM, make sure the terminals aren't spread and corroded in addition to checking all grounds on the body/frame. I have seen many times of driveability issues due to bad connections and/or bad ground(s). Thank you for advocating what we Chrysler techs have been trained to look at & see. Please keep me informed as to what happens with your car.
Daniel
you are correct my friend. It's best to check the connections going to the TCM, make sure the terminals aren't spread and corroded in addition to checking all grounds on the body/frame. I have seen many times of driveability issues due to bad connections and/or bad ground(s). Thank you for advocating what we Chrysler techs have been trained to look at & see. Please keep me informed as to what happens with your car.
Daniel
CobraCDN
08-23-2005, 08:45 AM
A Chrysler tech who checks transmission issues can check the solenoid pack manually by activating each solenoid.
Just a quick note I did contact the dealer that tried to scan... the tech did indeed actuate the solenoids but did not check the CVI's. Thus makes me feel a bit better. We'll keep driving and see :)
Cheers
Just a quick note I did contact the dealer that tried to scan... the tech did indeed actuate the solenoids but did not check the CVI's. Thus makes me feel a bit better. We'll keep driving and see :)
Cheers
ed4733
08-23-2005, 11:24 PM
Just a quick note I did contact the dealer that tried to scan... the tech did indeed actuate the solenoids but did not check the CVI's. Thus makes me feel a bit better. We'll keep driving and see :)
Cheers
Ok. Now from what I read here, the TCM can be reset and the car should drive correctly for some short time? Cobra replaced the TCM and so far so good? I did get to check my codes in the Intrepid, they came back 55. I did clean the battery teminals a couple of weeks ago so that's the reason I did not get any error codes from the engine. The speedo did not go out on the car, so the speed sensors I hope are OK. I am dealing with a car that is not registered with the State of Louisiana (Confusion) so driving for long periods is not possible for a couple more weeks. Also why I have not gotten the car to a dealer yet although they have one 2 blocks from where I work. For now I am going to disconnect the battery for a day or two, and maybe replace the trans oil with ATF 4. I know we put ATF 3 in the transmission when we installed it in the car. Thanks for all the help guys.
Ed
Cheers
Ok. Now from what I read here, the TCM can be reset and the car should drive correctly for some short time? Cobra replaced the TCM and so far so good? I did get to check my codes in the Intrepid, they came back 55. I did clean the battery teminals a couple of weeks ago so that's the reason I did not get any error codes from the engine. The speedo did not go out on the car, so the speed sensors I hope are OK. I am dealing with a car that is not registered with the State of Louisiana (Confusion) so driving for long periods is not possible for a couple more weeks. Also why I have not gotten the car to a dealer yet although they have one 2 blocks from where I work. For now I am going to disconnect the battery for a day or two, and maybe replace the trans oil with ATF 4. I know we put ATF 3 in the transmission when we installed it in the car. Thanks for all the help guys.
Ed
CobraCDN
08-24-2005, 08:52 AM
For now I am going to disconnect the battery for a day or two, and maybe replace the trans oil with ATF 4. I know we put ATF 3 in the transmission when we installed it in the car. Thanks for all the help guys.
Ed
So far so good with the Concorde, But it will be a week or so before we get a thousand Kms on it. The TCM loses it's memory, so yes it should come out of limp mode, but if there is indeed a problem in the tranny it should go right back in as soon as the conditions of the fault repeat themselves. When I cleared mine, I paid very close attention as to what the tranny was doing... meaning I kept the radio off so I could hear for any odd noises, I drove it very gently, paying attention to how it was shifting... remembering the whole point of Limp mode is to protect the tranny from further damage.
What I am not sure about is if you can mix ATF +3 & +4. If you can't then you will require a powerflush of the tranny. Perhaps someone can comment on that.
Cheers
Ed
So far so good with the Concorde, But it will be a week or so before we get a thousand Kms on it. The TCM loses it's memory, so yes it should come out of limp mode, but if there is indeed a problem in the tranny it should go right back in as soon as the conditions of the fault repeat themselves. When I cleared mine, I paid very close attention as to what the tranny was doing... meaning I kept the radio off so I could hear for any odd noises, I drove it very gently, paying attention to how it was shifting... remembering the whole point of Limp mode is to protect the tranny from further damage.
What I am not sure about is if you can mix ATF +3 & +4. If you can't then you will require a powerflush of the tranny. Perhaps someone can comment on that.
Cheers
theFREAKnasty82
08-24-2005, 10:37 AM
Cobra,
you are correct, you CAN NOT mix ATF +3 $ 4 together. Mixing the two will be like mixing oil & water. For all Chrysler LH vehicles (Dodge Intrepid or Chrysler, Chrysler Concorde, LHS, 300M from 1993 to 2004) are supposed to use Mopar ATF +4, nothing else. If you need the TSB to verify that, I can get that for you.
you are correct, you CAN NOT mix ATF +3 $ 4 together. Mixing the two will be like mixing oil & water. For all Chrysler LH vehicles (Dodge Intrepid or Chrysler, Chrysler Concorde, LHS, 300M from 1993 to 2004) are supposed to use Mopar ATF +4, nothing else. If you need the TSB to verify that, I can get that for you.
theFREAKnasty82
08-24-2005, 10:34 PM
Ladies & Gentlemen,
here's proof positive why you need to run ONLY ATF +4 in your Concordes, here's the TSB that came out almost 4 years ago:
NUMBER: 21-006-01
GROUP: Transmission
DATE: Jun. 29, 2001
THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 21-16-99, DATED OCTOBER 22, 1999, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES AND NOTED IN THE 1999 TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN MANUAL (PUBLICATION NO. 81-699-00004). THIS IS A COMPLETE REVISION AND NO ASTERISKS HAVE BEEN ADDED TO HIGHLIGHT REVISIONS.
SUBJECT:
Automatic Transmission Fluid Usage ATF+4 (Type 9602)
MODELS:
1989 - 1995 (AA) Spirit/Acclaim/Lebaron Sedan
1989 - 2002 (AB) Ram Van/Wagon
1989 - 1993 (AC) Dynasty/New Yorker/New Yorker Salon
1989 - 1993 (AD) Ram Truck
1989 - 1994 (AG) Daytona
1989 (AH) Lancer/Lebaron GTS
1989 - 1995 (AJ) Lebaron Coupe/Lebaron Convertible
1989 - 1990 (AK) Aries/Reliant
1989 - 1990 (AL) Horizon/Omni
1989 (AM) Diplomat/Gran Fury/New Yorker Fifth Avenue
1989 - 2002 (AN) Dakota
1989 - 1994 (AP) Shadow/Sundance
1990 - 1991 (AQ) Maserati
1990 - 1993 (AY) Imperial/New Yorker Fifth Avenue
1994 - 2002 (BR/BE) Ram Truck
1998 - 2002 (DN) Durango
2002 (DR) Ram Truck
1995 - 2000 (FJ) Sebring/Avenger/Talon
2000 (GS) Chrysler Voyager (International Market)
1995 - 2000 (JA) Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze
2001 - 2002 (JR) Sebring Sedan & Convertible/Stratus Sedan
1996 - 2000 (JX) Sebring Convertible
2002 (KJ) Liberty
1993 - 2002 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid/Vision/LHS/New
Yorker/300M
1989 - 1992 (MJ) Commanche
2000 (NS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager
1995 - 2002 (PL) Neon
2002 (PG) PT Cruiser (International Markets)
2001 - 2002 (PT) PT Cruiser
1997 - 2002 (PR) Prowler
2001 - 2002 (RG) Chrysler Voyager (International Markets)
2001 - 2002 (RS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager
1997 - 2002 (TJ) Wrangler
2001 - 2002 (WG) Grand Cherokee (International Markets)
1999 - 2002 (WJ) Grand Cherokee
1989 - 1995 (YJ) Wrangler
1996 - 1998 (ZG) Grand Cherokee (International Markets)
1993 - 1998 (ZJ) Grand Cherokee/Grand Wagoneer
NOTE :THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO ALL VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH CHRYSLER AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS EXCEPT 1999 AND EARLIER MINIVANS.
DISCUSSION:
A new transmission fluid (ATF+4(R) - Type 9602) has been developed and is being used as factory fill for all vehicles with Chrysler automatic transmissions. Until now, vehicles originally filled with ATF+2 or ATF+3 were to be serviced with ATF+3. Effective immediately, it is recommended that all vehicles with Chrysler automatic transmissions except for 1999 and earlier minivans be serviced with ATF+4(R). ATF+3 should continue to be used for 1999 and earlier minivans because of the potential for torque converter shudder during break in. For all other applications the ATF+4(R) fluid offers significant benefits as outlined below.
NOTE :ATF+4(R) MUST ALWAYS BE USED IN VEHICLES THAT WERE ORIGINALLY FILLED WITH ATF+4(R).
NOTE :SERVICE INTERVALS DO NOT CHANGE. THE SERVICE INTERVAL CURRENTLY IN EFFECT FOR A GIVEN VEHICLE SHOULD CONTINUE TO BE FOLLOWED.
NOTE :ATF+4(R) IS COMPATIBLE WITH ATF+3 AND CAN BE USED TO TOP OFF VEHICLES THAT CURRENTLY HAVE ATF+2 OR ATF+3. DO NOT USE ATF+2 OR ATF+3 TO TOP OFF VEHICLES THAT HAVE ATF+4(R) FLUID.
BENEFITS
^ Better anti-wear properties
^ Improved rust/corrosion prevention
^ Controls oxidation
^ Eliminates deposits
^ Controls friction
^ Retains anti-foaming properties
^ Superior properties for low temperature operation
FLUID COLOR
Mopar ATF+4(R) is a World Class Fluid having exceptional durability. However, the red dye used in ATF+4°R is not permanent; as the fluid ages it may become darker or appear brown in color. ATF+4(R) also has a unique odor that may change with age. With ATF+4(R) fluid, color and odor are no longer indicators of fluid condition and do not support a fluid change.
here's proof positive why you need to run ONLY ATF +4 in your Concordes, here's the TSB that came out almost 4 years ago:
NUMBER: 21-006-01
GROUP: Transmission
DATE: Jun. 29, 2001
THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 21-16-99, DATED OCTOBER 22, 1999, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES AND NOTED IN THE 1999 TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN MANUAL (PUBLICATION NO. 81-699-00004). THIS IS A COMPLETE REVISION AND NO ASTERISKS HAVE BEEN ADDED TO HIGHLIGHT REVISIONS.
SUBJECT:
Automatic Transmission Fluid Usage ATF+4 (Type 9602)
MODELS:
1989 - 1995 (AA) Spirit/Acclaim/Lebaron Sedan
1989 - 2002 (AB) Ram Van/Wagon
1989 - 1993 (AC) Dynasty/New Yorker/New Yorker Salon
1989 - 1993 (AD) Ram Truck
1989 - 1994 (AG) Daytona
1989 (AH) Lancer/Lebaron GTS
1989 - 1995 (AJ) Lebaron Coupe/Lebaron Convertible
1989 - 1990 (AK) Aries/Reliant
1989 - 1990 (AL) Horizon/Omni
1989 (AM) Diplomat/Gran Fury/New Yorker Fifth Avenue
1989 - 2002 (AN) Dakota
1989 - 1994 (AP) Shadow/Sundance
1990 - 1991 (AQ) Maserati
1990 - 1993 (AY) Imperial/New Yorker Fifth Avenue
1994 - 2002 (BR/BE) Ram Truck
1998 - 2002 (DN) Durango
2002 (DR) Ram Truck
1995 - 2000 (FJ) Sebring/Avenger/Talon
2000 (GS) Chrysler Voyager (International Market)
1995 - 2000 (JA) Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze
2001 - 2002 (JR) Sebring Sedan & Convertible/Stratus Sedan
1996 - 2000 (JX) Sebring Convertible
2002 (KJ) Liberty
1993 - 2002 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid/Vision/LHS/New
Yorker/300M
1989 - 1992 (MJ) Commanche
2000 (NS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager
1995 - 2002 (PL) Neon
2002 (PG) PT Cruiser (International Markets)
2001 - 2002 (PT) PT Cruiser
1997 - 2002 (PR) Prowler
2001 - 2002 (RG) Chrysler Voyager (International Markets)
2001 - 2002 (RS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager
1997 - 2002 (TJ) Wrangler
2001 - 2002 (WG) Grand Cherokee (International Markets)
1999 - 2002 (WJ) Grand Cherokee
1989 - 1995 (YJ) Wrangler
1996 - 1998 (ZG) Grand Cherokee (International Markets)
1993 - 1998 (ZJ) Grand Cherokee/Grand Wagoneer
NOTE :THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO ALL VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH CHRYSLER AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS EXCEPT 1999 AND EARLIER MINIVANS.
DISCUSSION:
A new transmission fluid (ATF+4(R) - Type 9602) has been developed and is being used as factory fill for all vehicles with Chrysler automatic transmissions. Until now, vehicles originally filled with ATF+2 or ATF+3 were to be serviced with ATF+3. Effective immediately, it is recommended that all vehicles with Chrysler automatic transmissions except for 1999 and earlier minivans be serviced with ATF+4(R). ATF+3 should continue to be used for 1999 and earlier minivans because of the potential for torque converter shudder during break in. For all other applications the ATF+4(R) fluid offers significant benefits as outlined below.
NOTE :ATF+4(R) MUST ALWAYS BE USED IN VEHICLES THAT WERE ORIGINALLY FILLED WITH ATF+4(R).
NOTE :SERVICE INTERVALS DO NOT CHANGE. THE SERVICE INTERVAL CURRENTLY IN EFFECT FOR A GIVEN VEHICLE SHOULD CONTINUE TO BE FOLLOWED.
NOTE :ATF+4(R) IS COMPATIBLE WITH ATF+3 AND CAN BE USED TO TOP OFF VEHICLES THAT CURRENTLY HAVE ATF+2 OR ATF+3. DO NOT USE ATF+2 OR ATF+3 TO TOP OFF VEHICLES THAT HAVE ATF+4(R) FLUID.
BENEFITS
^ Better anti-wear properties
^ Improved rust/corrosion prevention
^ Controls oxidation
^ Eliminates deposits
^ Controls friction
^ Retains anti-foaming properties
^ Superior properties for low temperature operation
FLUID COLOR
Mopar ATF+4(R) is a World Class Fluid having exceptional durability. However, the red dye used in ATF+4°R is not permanent; as the fluid ages it may become darker or appear brown in color. ATF+4(R) also has a unique odor that may change with age. With ATF+4(R) fluid, color and odor are no longer indicators of fluid condition and do not support a fluid change.
CobraCDN
08-31-2005, 10:53 PM
Ok heres an update.
We are now at 1280 KMS since the TCM was replaced, and again the car has gone into limp mode. We are running out of possibilities, and wearing out the pocket book lol. There seems to be no pattern as to when it goes into limp mode. So I'm down to 2 possibilities at this point, unless someone can shed new light on this.
1) bad wire/connection. Funny thing though is, it has always gone while on paved roads, we live on gravel, and one would think a faulty connection would fault while shaking down a gravel road.
2) One or more of the solenoids. Perhaps it is failing intermittantly. then will work for a spell then fail again. The dealer did apparently manually work the solenoids, and reported them to be working.
I have it booked to go back to the dealer Tuesday. We'll see what there scanner comes up with, as i will not clear the TCM this time like I did the last.
With the new TCM, it will go out of limp mode after a restart or 2, & drive normally. This did not happen with the old TCM.
Any ideas out there?
Cheers
We are now at 1280 KMS since the TCM was replaced, and again the car has gone into limp mode. We are running out of possibilities, and wearing out the pocket book lol. There seems to be no pattern as to when it goes into limp mode. So I'm down to 2 possibilities at this point, unless someone can shed new light on this.
1) bad wire/connection. Funny thing though is, it has always gone while on paved roads, we live on gravel, and one would think a faulty connection would fault while shaking down a gravel road.
2) One or more of the solenoids. Perhaps it is failing intermittantly. then will work for a spell then fail again. The dealer did apparently manually work the solenoids, and reported them to be working.
I have it booked to go back to the dealer Tuesday. We'll see what there scanner comes up with, as i will not clear the TCM this time like I did the last.
With the new TCM, it will go out of limp mode after a restart or 2, & drive normally. This did not happen with the old TCM.
Any ideas out there?
Cheers
CobraCDN
09-14-2005, 02:05 PM
I have it booked to go back to the dealer Tuesday. We'll see what there scanner comes up with, as i will not clear the TCM this time like I did the last.
Scan pointed to Solenoid Pack. They replaced it and we are now about 1000K with no probs. I'll feel better when we get to 2000K lol
Cheers
Scan pointed to Solenoid Pack. They replaced it and we are now about 1000K with no probs. I'll feel better when we get to 2000K lol
Cheers
theFREAKnasty82
09-14-2005, 11:06 PM
did they flash program your module? That's usually routine that if the solenoid pack is replaced, the TCM get flashed. If not, you could run into problems later on.
dakota235
09-30-2005, 01:12 PM
I have a 98 concorde with the same problem - only 38000 miles on it. It goes into limp, I reset all codes with generic obdII and all is fine for a while. I believe that my obdII cannot read tranny codes. I believe it did read PO700 which is a very generic "something is wrong with power train - somewhere"
shifts fine on upshifts - downshifts while coasting vary between a little harsh to downright rough.
the speedo is correct and fine while under power - it is erattic when off power and caosting to a stop.
I replaced both input and output sensors for tranny with no improvement.
I guess I need to have dealer read tranny specific codes
I plan on changing fluid and filter this weekend
thanks for info and I appreciate the responses
richard
shifts fine on upshifts - downshifts while coasting vary between a little harsh to downright rough.
the speedo is correct and fine while under power - it is erattic when off power and caosting to a stop.
I replaced both input and output sensors for tranny with no improvement.
I guess I need to have dealer read tranny specific codes
I plan on changing fluid and filter this weekend
thanks for info and I appreciate the responses
richard
Bizzy102
10-03-2005, 05:58 PM
Chyslers are big fans of atf+5. use that only. as for the flush, DONT FLUSH YOUR TRANS. Most of the time, if you don't have a real problem as far as mechanical, you don't need to flush your trans. Plus if somebody who does it dosen't do it right, they will wind up blowing all your seals in the trans. I seen this all the time at my shop. Once again, DONT FLUSH YOUR TRANS!!!!!
dakota235
10-04-2005, 09:29 AM
thanks for info
I took off the pan and replaced the filter and fluid. The pan was spotless with no friction material and the magnet was normal "fuzzy".
I didnt believe that the new filter and fluid wouldnt do any good at that point but I had to put it back together anyway.
I was right, no improvement. I guess Ill take it to a shop and get them to read the codes.
the car runs perfectly under power - when I coast the tranny does its harsh downshifts
I still beleve the flicking speedo while I am coasting indicates the shaft sensors are not giving the computer a smooth string of pulses - since the car doesnt really know how fast it is rolling - it downshifts with a big clunk! - the speedo is normal when under power - I assume the car calculates its speed based on locked up tranny when under power - when coasting and when engine is at idle then missing pulses prevent it from knowing the correct speed and downshifting properly - well that is just my theory.
thanks
richard
I took off the pan and replaced the filter and fluid. The pan was spotless with no friction material and the magnet was normal "fuzzy".
I didnt believe that the new filter and fluid wouldnt do any good at that point but I had to put it back together anyway.
I was right, no improvement. I guess Ill take it to a shop and get them to read the codes.
the car runs perfectly under power - when I coast the tranny does its harsh downshifts
I still beleve the flicking speedo while I am coasting indicates the shaft sensors are not giving the computer a smooth string of pulses - since the car doesnt really know how fast it is rolling - it downshifts with a big clunk! - the speedo is normal when under power - I assume the car calculates its speed based on locked up tranny when under power - when coasting and when engine is at idle then missing pulses prevent it from knowing the correct speed and downshifting properly - well that is just my theory.
thanks
richard
Bizzy102
10-06-2005, 10:56 PM
it might have to relearn the driving conditions. Try driving it for a couple of miles.
Rail-Driver
11-03-2005, 01:39 AM
Cobra, my father had concorde that went through all the same problems you are having. In the end he had the servos replaced, but the problem returned. He then replaced the electrical wiring harness to the transmission, and it worked fine for about 1000 miles. Then the problem seemed to point to the wiring harness. After disconecting the wiring harness and applying a heavy coat of dialic (spelling?) grease to the terminals, the car has been fine for 2 years now.
CobraCDN
12-30-2005, 07:26 PM
After the solonoid pack replacement the car again wen tinto loimp mode.. dang thing lol. Anyways the only thing left was to search for a faulty connection in the wireing. I unplugged every connection I could find between the TCM, the engine computer and the tranny, cleaned and re-connected. No more problems. I'd suggest to all having problems of this nature to take a saturday and to this first before taking it to a dealer for a scan.
Cheers
Cheers
skylinerules14
02-21-2006, 04:08 PM
i want to show off my skyline and my spider also my sobb did i mention my bmw
skylinerules14
02-21-2006, 04:10 PM
dude thats sad
skylinerules14
02-21-2006, 04:11 PM
:naughty: :naughty: :naughty:
dude thats sad
dude thats sad
skylinerules14
02-21-2006, 04:14 PM
does anyone known where i can street race at
CobraCDN
04-27-2006, 06:44 PM
Sorry folks I just realized I did not post and ending to this problem. It id go back into limp mode again. After calming my fustration.. I reviewed all that had been done.. and the only logical thing left was wireing. So I pulled apart every connection i could get to.. cleaned it and reconnected it.. And that was the end of the problem. I don't know which connection it was as I cleaned them all.. but the definelty was the problem. So if anyone else has a similiar prob.. maybe cehck all connections first :)
Cheers
Cheers
bigdawgntn
04-28-2006, 10:05 PM
I just recieved a 1994 Chrysler LHS. The Transmission Was disconnected in the engine block. I connected it and now with the key on and foot on the break, it will only shift into neautral and reverse. It went into drive once but couldn't get it back. I will say that in the shifter box in the cab of the car there is a black plastic piece that looks like it was suppose to be connected but the was no way I could tell why. Please Help. E-mail at [email protected]
borninabarn
05-01-2006, 09:07 PM
After the solonoid pack replacement the car again wen tinto loimp mode.. dang thing lol. Anyways the only thing left was to search for a faulty connection in the wireing. I unplugged every connection I could find between the TCM, the engine computer and the tranny, cleaned and re-connected. No more problems. I'd suggest to all having problems of this nature to take a saturday and to this first before taking it to a dealer for a scan.
CheersHello born from Iowa here.Ihave also a 94 concorde 3.3 sitting next to my garage nice clean car(wont shift out of 1st another one)car came into the shop no speedo and stuck in 1st.Replaced output speed sensor shifted fine for 30 miles and speedo worked again.went into limp mode again .So far replaced input and out put speed sensors.salvage yard tcm(put back old one one i got put the airbag light on)all lights on park,reverse,drive come on 1 minute after starting
i have a nuetral saftey switch i have not yet installed.Have heard that the soloniod packs need replaced($158)I want to drive this car does the tcm have to be reprogrammed with a dealers drb2 or what should i do at this point?all connections i have checked and double checked dont know for sure what tranny fluid this thing has in it.would that really make this big of a difference?Help me PLEASE!BORN
CheersHello born from Iowa here.Ihave also a 94 concorde 3.3 sitting next to my garage nice clean car(wont shift out of 1st another one)car came into the shop no speedo and stuck in 1st.Replaced output speed sensor shifted fine for 30 miles and speedo worked again.went into limp mode again .So far replaced input and out put speed sensors.salvage yard tcm(put back old one one i got put the airbag light on)all lights on park,reverse,drive come on 1 minute after starting
i have a nuetral saftey switch i have not yet installed.Have heard that the soloniod packs need replaced($158)I want to drive this car does the tcm have to be reprogrammed with a dealers drb2 or what should i do at this point?all connections i have checked and double checked dont know for sure what tranny fluid this thing has in it.would that really make this big of a difference?Help me PLEASE!BORN
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