Our Community is 940,000 Strong. Join Us.

leaking oil pan

08-06-2005, 09:54 PM
i have a 98 with a 2.0 automatic, the oil pan has rusted through and is getting worse,the only other person i know with one of these said the same thing has also occured on his this year. are leaking pans that common and are they a job to replace also the pictures in my haynes manual isnt like the actual pan.....news

08-22-2006, 01:27 PM
I took my 99 mystic to the mechanic it cost me 450.. Same exact things... Sorry this car sucks...

09-18-2006, 05:18 PM
I have a 96 chevy tahoe 4wd and am trying to replace the oil pan. Do I need a certain socket to remove some of the oil pan bolts?

09-19-2006, 05:00 PM
The key to changing the oil pan is having enough room to get the pan past the oil pump strainer. Some times you have to loosen the mounts and lift up the motor always look and don't brake any thing such as a distributor.
Usually a 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch socket set is needed. Sometimes you will find a torx bolt. Any good parts store should sell these tools or sears.
Drain the oil first and remove the oil filter. Unbolt the strainer and clean it while the pan is off.
Some can be done in a couple of hours some most of the day depending on your tools. If the motor needs picked up borrow a engine lift so you can watch as you pick it up. Make sure you get a new gasket. I usually glue them to the pan with adhesive some have new neopreme seals. I have used four longer bolts so I could see that all of the gasket set properly. I removed them and used original bolts. It is very important not to get part of the gasket off the pan. I had one mechanic who used small copper wires to hold it on they went into the gasket. Go from side to side and tighten evenly. Take a small screwdriver and clean all bolt holes to remove silicon. You can break an oil pan bolt with a 1/4 inch drive set with silicon in the hole.

Add your comment to this topic!