enigma.

Alright...my iroc is having some idleing issues.. it gets to the point where it wants to turn off at stop lights so i put it in neutral and rev it a little to keep it alive. The lady I bought it from had it sitting for about 2 years and serviced it before she sold it to me. She has all this changed:
-catalytic converter, 02 sensor, battery, set plugs, wires, ignition cap,rotor, fuel filter, air filter,oil, oil filter and brakes. Could it be that the injectors are dirty which are causing this. Also.. the car turned off on me about 4 times yesterday in a time span of 10 minutes as i was driving it down some small residential streets.. I just gave it gas and it would turn off.. alright. thanks.

Icm!

Sounds like a MAP sensor problem.

oh yeah let me add.. it runs pretty good on the highway.. should I just keep driving it to 'break it in' back to its running cycle since it was sitting for some time.

It may just need to relearn, but relearn usually only takes one or two drive cycles....

yeah i mean i just got the car on friday and i only really drove it friday night to my house, saturday i just went around the town and yesterday i drove it a lot.

Trying getting a scanner hooked up, if its having driveability problems it may have a code or a history of codes set.

holy shit.. i just went to start it and the rpms were constant.. no more jumping.. or was it stable cause it was cold.. hmm..

Yeah if your RPMs jump, it's your ignition control module, hell if you want you can take it and get it tested for free.

where do they test it for free? Hopefully its just that I need to drive it so it can get used to doint its thang haha

Orielly and Autozone, the part doesnt cost much.. I think I got mine for under $50.

oh thats dope.. ill see what they can do.. thanks

No problem, just get the Maro back up and running!

damn things just got worse.. I overlooked the problem since it was doing better. I barely made it to my friends house. It would start perfectly but then a couple of seconds later it would shut off. The engine would just kinda choke and die out but it would start perfectly every time without hesitation. I noticed it works well when it hasnt been driven for a little while. After I left it off for like an hour wondering what to do, I turned it on and managed to drive it to a friends house. Its kinda hard to describe what it does.. alright. i start it.. and then i put it in gear or even in park it shakes a lot and the rpms just drop and the car dies.. also.. i noticed that while the car is shaking, the battery volt meter is moving slightly at the same pace of the car shaking but it still stays above the mid point so the battery is working and everything..

oh yeah and my dad's friend is a mechanic (the friend where I left my car) and he said something about the module might be screwed up or injectors or both.. so.. RallySport92 I think you hit it right on the spot and I should have not gotten lazy and gotten it checked out at Autozone haha. Damn.. Well see how this turns out

Tell ya man, dont defy me. :lol2: Just get it tested out and REMEMBER, when you put back your cap REMEMBER to put it on NICELY, if your problem continues about RPMs jumping, you put it on wrong.

2 thigns.

1, make sure you put the silicone (anti-heat) cream on the new one nice and evenly to prevent premature death.

2, an most importantly, DO NOT get one of those damn cheapo wells ign. modules, spend the extra few bucks and get a AC/Delco replacement.

hell yeah.. we changed the ICM and the idle issues are no more hahaha. There is still a problem though. When we take off cables 1 and 2 off the distributor, you dont hear a difference like if the cylinders stopped firing. When we would take off one of the other cylinders 3-8, you would hear a difference and you could notice by the sound that the cylinder would stop firing. So yeah cylinders 1 and 2 arent firing and it isnt spark plugs or wires b.c they were changed in July. Is there a way to check if the fuel injectors are working.. I know trying to clean them will probably not help.

Well if you want you can do a compression test for FREE once again in Autozone, and maybe Orielly. So go do that, unless you wanna buy it for 80 bucks.

Compression test wont check or fix bad injectors because you disable fuel and spark to do a compression test.

There are tests you can do to test them, but since you dont have the equipment and know it's not a sparky issue i would just go ahead and replace them.

ahh alright.. ill see how this turns out

Well I suggested a compression test because it sounded to me like they werent going properly.

You can pick up a Noid Lite to plug into the wires going to the injector to make sure they are getting a pulse. You can also do an ohm test on the injectors to make sure that the circuit is ok.

Alright.. update.. the fuel injectors are not the problem.. they were checked and are doing good. The ICM is also good so that gets it out of the way. We looked at the pick up coil and it was rusty :screwy: I dont know if that could cause any problems but im gonna replace that.. its like 15 bucks anyway.. My friends dad singled it out to the TPS.. :eek7: Does this sound reasonable considering whats been going on with my car??? Also.. when the car is cold and we lift one of the spark plug cables off the distributor (1-8) you can hear a difference since the cylinders arent firing.. BUT when the car has warmed up or has been on for a little while and we lift cylinder 1 or 2, you dont notice a difference.. its like 1 and 2 arent firing.. hmm :disappoin damn i want this shit to stop so i can drive my damn car :eek7: :mad:

Your injectors are batch fire, if one is firing they all are (providing the injectors are good)
If 2 cylinders aren't firing, do a compression test on them, then replace the plugs and wires. Doesn't matter when you replaced them last, if 2 cylinders are dead and the rest checks good, they have to be the problem.

Autozone does a free compression test??? I want to do a compression test on my motor but I have taken the time to do it because if i find that the plugs are bad ill want new ones and i dont have the money at the moment.(school)

Autozone does not do a compression test.

i didnt think so because that would take a bit of time to do which is understandable that they wouldnt. I still need to though....

alright.. the problem isnt mechanical.. which makes me happy knowing im not gonna have to rebuild anything soon :naughty: but the problem is electrical which is a pain in the ass to find. There is a short circuit somewhere.. it fried 2 alternators already and is now at my uncle's shop and started the tedious process of looking for the source.. hopefully this all ends soon. :disappoin

i knew it all along it was gonna be something stupid like that.. some fucking wire(s) causing all this...

do you have an aftermarket headunit? if now was there one in there before you bought the car?

nope.. has stock head unit.. BUT it did have an alarm previously and was removed hmm...

yeah the alarm was installed, but then removed by the previous owner and thats the only thing it has had changed.. everything is stock.

yeah the alarm was installed, but then removed by the previous owner and thats the only thing it has had changed.. everything is stock.

they might have left some bare wires that are touching and causing a short. its just an idea, prob wrong tho.