94 taurus will not start after replacing head gaskets
jbscott
08-01-2005, 01:05 PM
so, i drove my 1994 taurus wagin with the 3.0 liter to long after the waterpump shaft broke. After replacing the waterpump, it started right up and was blowing white smoke. SO i tore it down, replaced the gaskets, etc, and put it back together. It starte right up but was running rough. I checked the timing since I wasn't sure if I had gotten the distributor back in the right place. I put the light on it and the timing mark was way way off, about a good inch form the mark. I tried to simply move the distributor cap while it was running bu that didn't help get i to where ti shouldbe,so I pulled the distributor out to try and get it closer and it hasn't run since. What i have been doing is to set it at TDC, and check the rotor to see if was pointing at the #1 post on the cap. It wasn;t and i pulled the distributor out and turned it and set it back in while getting the rotor to face the #1 post on the cap as close as I can. I have done this abpprox 5o times. There have been 8 or so times when the car had started right up after doing this, but while it would run about 30 seconds or so, it would stall. I tried to give it gas and while it first started, it would accelerate while giving it gas, but when it started to die, it would not take the gas. I have checked the shut off switch located in the trunk panel and it appears to be all set.
This is very frustrating. At one point i just pulled the distributor out, spun it to no particular spot and just put it back in and the car started! again with the same problem as above. It would run for about 20-30 seconds and stall. It would start again and stall and then I could not get it started again. AT this point, i am ready to send the car to the scrap heap but it is in good shape and was a nice running car.
Any help?
thanks
jeff.....
This is very frustrating. At one point i just pulled the distributor out, spun it to no particular spot and just put it back in and the car started! again with the same problem as above. It would run for about 20-30 seconds and stall. It would start again and stall and then I could not get it started again. AT this point, i am ready to send the car to the scrap heap but it is in good shape and was a nice running car.
Any help?
thanks
jeff.....
KimMG
08-01-2005, 11:34 PM
Check the timing belt for broken or misaligned teeth.
jbscott
08-03-2005, 09:51 AM
Check the timing belt for broken or misaligned teeth.
I forgot to mention that i replaced the timing chain and gears but it did not help.
I forgot to mention that i replaced the timing chain and gears but it did not help.
Psychopete
08-03-2005, 11:55 AM
Do these engines have a SPOUT connector? If so, are you pulling the SPOUT when you're checking the timing? The SPOUT tells the computer to advance or retard the timing. When checking the timing with it in, it will not reflect the actual base timing. It will appear it's about 1" off :). Make sure the distributor is getting full seated and that there is no damage to any of it's moving parts.
If it's flooding out, and gives a pop once, you're 180 off and it's firing when the exhaust valves are open.
When the car isn't starting, you need to figure out why. Check the spark, fuel pressure, etc. If you changed the head gaskets, and it ran kind of rough, I would be tempted to leak down test the egine. The tool is kind of pricey, but you can build one yourself:
http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml
Not sure if the timing is the problem, though it would be a good idea to get it right. Make sure the fuel pumps are coming on, you will need to test the fuel pressure to make sure it's getting enough fuel to the injectors. The pump could be intermittently working. I imagine it got hotter than hell under the hood, some electrial components could have been damaged.
Did you have the heads checked for warpage? Sounds like you really overheated the piss out of it, the heads might need re-surfaced. If that's the case, you'll need to determine if the lower intake manifold needs milled to compensate for the re-surfacing. But the hard part is determining exactly how much. (You'll end up with water in your oil if you don't. Water in oil = fried bearings)
There's just not enough data for anyone to generally know what the problem is. You need to do more diagnositics. Scan the codes. Poke around, it's hard to tell exactly what you're engine is doing.
Pete
If it's flooding out, and gives a pop once, you're 180 off and it's firing when the exhaust valves are open.
When the car isn't starting, you need to figure out why. Check the spark, fuel pressure, etc. If you changed the head gaskets, and it ran kind of rough, I would be tempted to leak down test the egine. The tool is kind of pricey, but you can build one yourself:
http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml
Not sure if the timing is the problem, though it would be a good idea to get it right. Make sure the fuel pumps are coming on, you will need to test the fuel pressure to make sure it's getting enough fuel to the injectors. The pump could be intermittently working. I imagine it got hotter than hell under the hood, some electrial components could have been damaged.
Did you have the heads checked for warpage? Sounds like you really overheated the piss out of it, the heads might need re-surfaced. If that's the case, you'll need to determine if the lower intake manifold needs milled to compensate for the re-surfacing. But the hard part is determining exactly how much. (You'll end up with water in your oil if you don't. Water in oil = fried bearings)
There's just not enough data for anyone to generally know what the problem is. You need to do more diagnositics. Scan the codes. Poke around, it's hard to tell exactly what you're engine is doing.
Pete
jbscott
08-04-2005, 12:51 PM
Do these engines have a SPOUT connector? If so, are you pulling the SPOUT when you're checking the timing? The SPOUT tells the computer to advance or retard the timing. When checking the timing with it in, it will not reflect the actual base timing. It will appear it's about 1" off :). Make sure the distributor is getting full seated and that there is no damage to any of it's moving parts.
If it's flooding out, and gives a pop once, you're 180 off and it's firing when the exhaust valves are open.
When the car isn't starting, you need to figure out why. Check the spark, fuel pressure, etc. If you changed the head gaskets, and it ran kind of rough, I would be tempted to leak down test the egine. The tool is kind of pricey, but you can build one yourself:
http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml
Not sure if the timing is the problem, though it would be a good idea to get it right. Make sure the fuel pumps are coming on, you will need to test the fuel pressure to make sure it's getting enough fuel to the injectors. The pump could be intermittently working. I imagine it got hotter than hell under the hood, some electrial components could have been damaged.
Did you have the heads checked for warpage? Sounds like you really overheated the piss out of it, the heads might need re-surfaced. If that's the case, you'll need to determine if the lower intake manifold needs milled to compensate for the re-surfacing. But the hard part is determining exactly how much. (You'll end up with water in your oil if you don't. Water in oil = fried bearings)
There's just not enough data for anyone to generally know what the problem is. You need to do more diagnositics. Scan the codes. Poke around, it's hard to tell exactly what you're engine is doing.
Pete
hey, Thanks Pete, I will do some more searching to see if I can come up with anything
jeff...
If it's flooding out, and gives a pop once, you're 180 off and it's firing when the exhaust valves are open.
When the car isn't starting, you need to figure out why. Check the spark, fuel pressure, etc. If you changed the head gaskets, and it ran kind of rough, I would be tempted to leak down test the egine. The tool is kind of pricey, but you can build one yourself:
http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml
Not sure if the timing is the problem, though it would be a good idea to get it right. Make sure the fuel pumps are coming on, you will need to test the fuel pressure to make sure it's getting enough fuel to the injectors. The pump could be intermittently working. I imagine it got hotter than hell under the hood, some electrial components could have been damaged.
Did you have the heads checked for warpage? Sounds like you really overheated the piss out of it, the heads might need re-surfaced. If that's the case, you'll need to determine if the lower intake manifold needs milled to compensate for the re-surfacing. But the hard part is determining exactly how much. (You'll end up with water in your oil if you don't. Water in oil = fried bearings)
There's just not enough data for anyone to generally know what the problem is. You need to do more diagnositics. Scan the codes. Poke around, it's hard to tell exactly what you're engine is doing.
Pete
hey, Thanks Pete, I will do some more searching to see if I can come up with anything
jeff...
Taurus_SHO
08-08-2005, 03:53 AM
line the distributor slightly advanced, and plug the SPOUT in, timing sould be ballpark. have someone start the car, and spray base of intaake manifold with WD40 and see if engine speeds up and smoothes out. If so u have a vacum leak its why it runs poorly, and it will untill its fixed. If it is a leak u may have to take the manifold off, also check at both ends of the valley, thats where most V engines leak. Will tell u how to fix it if its the problem, had to change head on my 3.8.
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