Ass Transplant, Progress:50% Complete

Got the 4th gen rear, along with everthing else i needed (for now). Cleaned it up, painted it. Gears and posi look brand new, calipers, brakes and rotors look real good too. All for $100 bucks. I dropped my old rear over the weekend, 1st time, took over 15 hours, i'm hurting now, since i didn't eat that good over this weekend. I was waking up at 7:00am going out there to get that shit off. Those bolts haven't been changed at all i think. Half way there, juts gotta put the new one on now. Just wanted you guys to know. P.S. does anyone have some 3.42 or 3.73 laying around? I could use them. The 4.11 in it are gonna kill me, i gotta take it rel easy until i get them. Btw, one more til i hit a 1000!!!

lol, i got a 5.13

Umm, you gonna have enough brake line pressure to operate those properly?

Won't no until i get it on, but i got feeling i won't. But i've got that covered already. There's a tech article on thirdgen.org that show how to install a wilwood prop. valve, which will allow to adjust pressure. I pretty sure i will have to go that route, but i'm wait until i get it installed and see what happens. Blownalcoholboy, 5.13!?!?!? Damn, i didn't know they went that high, jesus!! I gonna see how these workout for ALITTLE BIT, i know they are probably gonna way too much for my car, but i'll have a little fun. These gears will help me get off the line REAl good, right? I know it't gonna suck up top, but i don't go that fast anyways.

Ok, the prop valve is going to make some difference atleast as to when the fronts start to activate and make things a little stiffer.

The only reamaining problem I see is overall, the master wasn't designed for that much pressure. It was desginsed to apply enough pressure to the area surface of the wheel cylinders which undoubtably the 4th gen calipers have significantly more surface area which would make less over all pressure.

So a new, upgraded master (94 and up) would be needed, to handle all that pressure, right? (Adds to list of things i need to get)

Im guessing you had drums before the swap?? Im not sure if you got a different master if you had drums or discs on the rear. My 89 though has the same rear disc brakes that came on the earlier 4th gens. They are bigger than my front brakes and have aluminum calipers.

Im just thinking that if you have the same master cylinder as me then it shouldnt be any problem.

Well, see if anyone else chimes in on it, but I think ya got a problem there.

You want your rears to start to crab before the fronts start kicking in, otherwise on a slippery surface, the ass end is gonna get real squierelly, and we all know f-bodies are bad enough. So with the prop valve you're talking about you're robbing power from the front to get the backs to activate properly, so in a sense, you're robbing Peter to pay Paul if ya follow.

But that's just taking a logical stance at it, you don't wanna dick around and find out the hard way. I'd just double check it.

Hey, thats why im come on here and ask these questions, i don't wanna mess around and end up wrapped around a tree or another persons car. I try it out, like in the back yard, see how they perform, if it bad, it'll sit til i get it right, even as anxious as i am to start driving this damn thing, i'll have to wait. So what is a master cylinder for disk on 92 and up cars, right? Dober, i have an 87 with drums (had) so will that work?

Man, you're going to be surprised when you get in your car, going to be QUICK, but only quick and a speedlimit topper. If I were you i'd just keep the 4.11 gears.

I know it's gonna get off the line like a mofo, i would like to see what my car was capable of, but i really would be able to tell, because my speedo is off like a mofo. The shit jumps up and down between twenty and zero when you're going like five. When it says you're going 30, it feels like your going 45, it's f'ed up.

Well it wont matter when you're in a race. Other than that, just go the speed that traffic is going.