Chevy Blazer Keyless Entry (1996)
paulson
07-31-2005, 05:36 PM
I deleted my old thread because it wasn't getting anywhere...
Does anyone have any info as to where the red connector could be hiding on a 1996 blazer for keyless entry.
I've determined it isn't the fuses, it isn't the remotes because they have new batteries and the batteries are placed in the right way.
here is what it should look like under the kick panel
http://www.djpsmusicmix.com/pics/keyprog.jpg
Here's what mine looks like
http://www.djpsmusicmix.com/pics/blazerunderdash.jpg
I've taken apart the dash but that didn't get me any closer to figuring it out, and I REALLY need help, but don't want to take it to the dealer.
I don't see how the connector could have just disappeared either.
So anyone's advice would be greatly greatly greatly appreciated!
Does anyone have any info as to where the red connector could be hiding on a 1996 blazer for keyless entry.
I've determined it isn't the fuses, it isn't the remotes because they have new batteries and the batteries are placed in the right way.
here is what it should look like under the kick panel
http://www.djpsmusicmix.com/pics/keyprog.jpg
Here's what mine looks like
http://www.djpsmusicmix.com/pics/blazerunderdash.jpg
I've taken apart the dash but that didn't get me any closer to figuring it out, and I REALLY need help, but don't want to take it to the dealer.
I don't see how the connector could have just disappeared either.
So anyone's advice would be greatly greatly greatly appreciated!
paulson
07-31-2005, 06:49 PM
Well I've about had it... I've screwed around with so much under there that I'm just sick of it...
is there another way to do it?
I read about shorting out the dcl on #4 and #8, but what is the dcl and what pins are #4 and #8...
please help me, I'm desperate :(
is there another way to do it?
I read about shorting out the dcl on #4 and #8, but what is the dcl and what pins are #4 and #8...
please help me, I'm desperate :(
chcknugget
07-31-2005, 07:01 PM
What are you trying to do? My box has no red connector. It looks exactly like your second picture.
paulson
07-31-2005, 07:20 PM
There should be a red connector that I'm supposed to short out...
I shorted out the DCL pins 4 & 8 and that made the door locks lock and unlock and the hatch popped open, but when I'd press keys on my remote, no go...
Very disappointing :(
I shorted out the DCL pins 4 & 8 and that made the door locks lock and unlock and the hatch popped open, but when I'd press keys on my remote, no go...
Very disappointing :(
RedLT
07-31-2005, 08:32 PM
You know it could be the remote that is messed up. You might look at it and say "well it looks fine" and the batteries may be new but that doesn't mean it IS fine. If someone were to drop it in water then it would have done some damage but nothing you could really see unless you knew what you were looking for.
paulson
07-31-2005, 09:00 PM
I think the antenna is bad....
BlazerLT
08-01-2005, 01:49 AM
please don't delete anymore threads.
paulson
08-01-2005, 02:25 AM
I wont, I just deleted that one because I had new information and no one was visiting that thread anymore...
this one contained the same amount of information in it so yeah...
this one contained the same amount of information in it so yeah...
paulson
08-01-2005, 07:54 PM
Another question as well, where is the antenna/receiver for keyless entry?
Since I can get the vehicle in programming mode but nothing happens when the I press buttons, what could be the culprit (It's not the remotes, they work just fine)
What other systems would I have to replace?
Thanks for the info!
Since I can get the vehicle in programming mode but nothing happens when the I press buttons, what could be the culprit (It's not the remotes, they work just fine)
What other systems would I have to replace?
Thanks for the info!
cubanlorenzo
08-02-2005, 01:55 PM
after you jumped the DCL pins 4 & 8, you said that locks cycled as they should have. after that happened did you hold the lock and unlock on the remote until the locks cycled again? you have to hold the lock and unlock until the locks cycle. if you have 2 remotes you have to program them at the same time as well....hope this helps
paulson
08-02-2005, 03:54 PM
Yes I held the lock and unlock on the remote for 20 seconds and it didn't do anything... there was no cycling of locks or anything.
So next it'd have to be the trw box or the antenna that are bad...
So next it'd have to be the trw box or the antenna that are bad...
wolfox
08-02-2005, 05:37 PM
It's cheaper to go buy another remote for your truck's model year. If your locks and rear hatch pop, chances are your TRW box is fine since it all has to pass through there. I would blame the remote first IMO, and pick up another to see if it works. That or go bug a local dealership about it. Might get lucky and find the rare, enthusiatic, new fellow willing to help you. ;)
paulson
08-02-2005, 05:43 PM
Our local dealership sucks... they claim things are wrong that really aren't... I'm sure they'd want to charge $500 to fix it... and they wont look at ANYTHING without charging a $25 free for advice...
I've got 2 remotes, both of which used to work (and then all the sudden the both just stopped)
Neither will work now, and I've replaced batteries in both.
I wish I had another remote to test it out on, but I definitely think that it's the transmitter/receiver on the Blazer and not the remote...
I've got 2 remotes, both of which used to work (and then all the sudden the both just stopped)
Neither will work now, and I've replaced batteries in both.
I wish I had another remote to test it out on, but I definitely think that it's the transmitter/receiver on the Blazer and not the remote...
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2025
