check engine light is on....

I have a 2001 accent and my check engine light has gone on...i recently replaced both O2 sensors at the end of last year. I took the car to a hyundai dealership and the computer checked claimed to have said that cyl #2 was misfiring..when i returned to tune the car up..they then said to me that it is not misfiring..its "compressed" and i "need to rebuild the engine as soon as possible, that i am driving on 3 cyl instead of 4." However, i have not lost power or burning oil, there is no knocking from the engine, it is just idling a little on the rough side. i was not aware that there is a thing called a compression test cause hyundai never told me about it..i brought the car to another mechanic who told me about the compression test..so they did their own computer check and a compression test..there is pressure in this cylinder..i think they said it was 110...they changed some plugs and wires and did a bit of a tune up..the light is still on..this mechanic thinks it might be the "ignitor" ...i am worried...i was reading other conversations on this site about the same problem and the MAF was suggested as the problem...could that be the same problem i am having?? if anyone could help me..i want to solve this mystery before winter and i need to know what i am dealing with..also will i be doing more damage to the engine if i continue to drive the car with this light on?? Can anyone help me...PLEASE??

Best thing to do first is to have the computer scanned and see what code is in there, and go from there. If it was a cyl 3 misfire caused by bad plugs or wires and your mechanic replaced them, he would have to clear the code as well, it won't go away on its own. Take it to Autozone or such and have them scan and clear the code for you. Or you can try unhooking your battery for a couple hours, that sometimes works as well. Once we know what code is stored, we will better be able to help you.

Whatever you do don't take it to the Stealer for help because the only thing he is going to help you with is spending your money. Go to a AAA service center. Joining AAA might not be a bad idea. It's like $50 a year. There repairs are guaranteed for 12 months and can be fixed by another AAA station. Having said that, they will probably replace spark plugs and wires. I've had engine misfires and it came down to the wires that come OEM stink. Use NGK plugs and any wires that basic wiring and see what that does. The Autozone idea is key too. Make sure it's not broken and if it is and only if it is, fix it. The Stealer had my Cousin pay for a "cleaning the battery terminals" fee of $75 that they tagged on as basic maintenance to her oil change from Toyota. She knows nothing about cars and paid it. This is how the Stealer survives - stealing your hard earned cash. Now I know that there may be a Robin Williams (Cadillac Man) dealer out there whose rescued children from the jaws of death and all but I'm willling to bet (and I ain't a gambling man) there ain't many. Where does the high school jock who doesn't make it to college wind up with a job? You guessed it. Door No. 3 and all. Mr. Stealer C'mon down. You've been elected to defraud, steal and basically you are now imbued with the ability to cheat and steal with no sense of moral terpitude or responsibility. I don't know about you but that ain't the guy or gal I want working on my car or billing me for repairs that are not needed and regardless, do not result in the resolution of the initial problem. FWIW :smokin:

depending on which motor it is it very well could have a bad valve guide which would cause for a rough idle more so in the morning or cold starts. What needs to be checked is the leakdown of your cylinders....i know what your thinking compresion now leakdown....who are these people.....also the number 110psi on number 3 sounds low what are the other 3 holes, rule of thumb is anything 20% difference and worse and u have an issue. and yes the repair is to ake the head to a machine shop and have the valve guides plus the normal stuff replaced.