questions....

ALLLright ya'll...


As you know i've been part of the recent purchase of a 87 turbo 2...

and some problems have arisen...

the car has been sitting for approximately 4 years... i guess the guy lost interest. When i first saw the car it started up and ran perfectly fine... with a fresh batt. and shit gas.

well my buddy took it home and its been problem after problem... it started and powered itself onto the trailer and when they arrived at the destination it wouldn't start - ended up being the ignition switch... problem solved.

car starts up fine... idles about 3k or so until it warms up or until you touch the gas then it drops down and will not idle...it dies. you can hold the gas to get it to idle around 1k but it won't stay there after you let off it. upon restart the car is flooded and you have to pull the ECM fuse to un-flood it... then it smokes like hell and re-starts once u plug the fuse back in.... now another problem what sort of sensors associated with the water temp / air temp / turbo could disturb the idle circut ? ... a mechanic friend of the owner was saying something about a sensor that was causing the screwey idle and such... idk i'm no good with anything that has forced induction.
i figured the injectors were part of the flooding problem, we've followed every procedure we can find to properly operate the car as far as startup/shutdown goes and to no avail.... still floods and won't idle once its off its 3k high idle.

now oil changes and tune-up... we plan to put a new set of standard NGK's, both leading and trailing.. but here's where my quesion comes in... what about oil... i figured just some regular old dino 10w30 since synthetic would be pointless being as how it has oil injection... as far as i know the tranny takes ... 75w90? 80w90 ? this car will probably see most of its miles during the summertime - so the more protection the better. my question ends with the rear diff.. i know it has an LSD and it works... heh... i'm sure the oil in it is original and since it has clutches and shit being LS, so ... is there a particular kind of oil that should be used... ???

another question... how detremental is removing the cats to the performance ? i've heard mixed opinions about altering the exhaust on a rotary, being as how its port-controlled exhaust... and finely tuned at that.

anybody got any commentary/advice ??? it would be greatly apprecieated on behalf of us both.

thanks in advance !!!

You IAC Valve is probably to be bleamed for the dieing idel.
As for the exhaust, removing the cats will bump of the boost, so you may want to invest in a FCD to prevent the rear rotor from loosing pressure when you boost higher than stock.

IAC ... Idle air control, is that a solenoid, valve, what ? and *about* what would one cost or is repairable ?

i have a concept of what is does but if you care to elaborate i'm all ears.

FCD... fuel control device, or do u mean FMU (fuel management unit) ?
i know that boosts fuel pressure to force more fuel thru stock injectors but i don't know if we're gonna get psycho with the boost as of yet.

just trying to clarify things, wanna fix things right so it doesn't come back to get us later.


again, thanks in advance!

FCD= Fuel Cut Defencer(Defender)

The purpose of this is to eliminate the tendancy for the RX7 to cut fuel to the rear rotor when the boost has reached higher than 10psi ( beleave, not 100% sure). If you remove the cats from the car the lack of backpressure will allow the turbos to spin freeier, in turn bumping up the boost some.

IAC valve= Idle Air Controle valve.
(IAC) on fuel injection vehicle, a valve that allows air to bypass the throttle plate(s), increasing idle speed. The valve is operated by an electric solenoid or motor. The vehicle computer controls the amount of opening to regulate idle speed for varying conditions such as cold string and air conditioner compressor load.

if this valve is faulty of the sensor is damaged when you come off cold idle you will stall. As for new price, im not sure i havent had to put one on a customers car for a while now. But brand new from Mazda there probably in the nabourhood of $100-120.

awesome... exactly the information i'm looking for.

i have NO idea where the closest mazda dealer from our location is, and more than likely the parts store won't have it, it was a challenge to find plugs for it... lol

i regret to inform its 4:10AM EDT, and i'm just flat-out tired.

we're going to work on the FC later this morning and i have to get a few hours of sleep :P

will post again later with other questions...thanks man

no problem, your best bet for another IAC valve is to find a junker FC and rip it off there.

The question here is after sitting all those years, did you change EVERY fluid in the car?

no... and the car has been driven very little (up and down the driveway)
looking for reccomendations on what types of fluid to use where.

just standard fluids.

I use Motul anywhere i can. Currently i run Motul 15W-40 in all the cars (yes its synthetic, and yes it is recomended by the manufactuer and has low ash content so there is no issue of carbon build up and incomplete burning)

I hear Red Line and Royal Purple offer some good fluids.

Flush rad, new oil, drain gas tank, new tranny fluid, new diff fluid, new clutch fluid, and new brake fluid.

That should do the trick.

alright ... i'm back with more problems

got the car running quite well today... took the IAC off and cleaned it up and it started working alright, adjusted the idle... and it runs great. boost gauge promptly rockets towards 40 ... gets a lil over half and stops ( That sound about right ? )

problem...

car overheats... the gauge reads somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2, but when you shut it off you can hear the perculation and it promptly boils over and out the overflow... so we drained all the cruddy fluid and flushed it and filled it up with water to no avail... does the same thing. both electric engine fan and engine driven fan run frequently. would this maybe be a thermostat problem ??? on occasion you'll get LOW COOLANT light screaming at you but it goes away when you revv it up or drive it...



can anyone help ?

You need to test the cooling system.

How are all the hoses (any soft spots, or rashes)?
Are you still using Mazda pring clamps on the hoses? (if so replaced with screw style clamp)

Get a coolant system pressure tester and pressurise the system and look for leaks.

If you find no leaks then you may verywell have a bad coolant o-ring, which means you need to relpace the motor.

Does the engine puff a bit of white on startup?

everything seems to be in good shape... doesn't puff ANYTHING... period

doesn't smoke eiether

it smoked a lil bit when we first started it when it had been sitting for years. but it was fine afterwords.... there was a ton of shit that drained out of the radiator and i'm thinking that the radiator core is more than likely clogged and in need of a good boil ... may have to price that one

later on this week we'll replace the thermostat and water temp sensor and get the radiator looked at ... i know this is a problem in older cars... this sucker is coming up on 20.. and being low mileage i know it sat alot so the innards of the radiator can't be well...


any ideas let me know... thanks

Never fix, UPGRADE!! ;P

Chances are your rad is not worth getting repaired, you can pick up good aftermarket rads for FC's for a decent price.

Have you dont a pressure test on the rad? Also pressure test the rad caps and make sure that they are holdint the proper pressure as well as have a good seal under them.

grab a koyo for $300. its worth it.

alright heres the deal, im the owner of the 7... this car is way beyond what i expected for one....lol...not complaining tho.. i start the car it idol's great now that we adjusted the idol. only thing is, when i start it it runs for about 10-20 sec. then the add coolant light and buzzer comes on,then after about a minute, it goes off sometimes it comes back on som,etimes it doesnt, weird ehh. theres a sensor..right next to the rad cap, it has been rewired by some asshole that apparently didnt know WTF he was doin, the wire is striped like 3 inches down, (bare wire) im tryin to fix the wire...and buy a new sensor,,,have any idea what this sensor is? and drftkid, i had been lookin at them koyo radiators for a few days now, u say its worth it? i might have to invest in one, welp when i get some pics ill post them so u guys can see my project, PROJECT-7 and anyone know where i can get a windsheild sticker that says no pistons? and any good rx7 web sites would be appreaciated as well...thanks,logan

The sensor at the top of the tank is the one that sets of the add-coolant light. If the sensor is shorted by having that bare wire it would probably set of the add-coolant buzzer/light.

Have you bleed the cooling system yet?

If not then that woudl be a good place to start. Make sure you have the heat on full and if possible have the front end of the car raised in the air to help the movement of air. I wont go over the beeldiong process as it is quite simple and fron the sound of it you could do it with no problems.

The koyo is worth it, it will keep your temps much lower when you are pushing the car. I currently run one but i may be getting something a bit bigger and better, gunna need the x-tra heat :P

nopistons.com

and
rx7club.com

are rotary communities with lots of information, if you need help or you want to buy something do it on either of those 2. i buy stuff off of rx7club memebers all the time