97 Aurora---many problems
d21156
07-28-2005, 07:37 AM
I recently (8 weeks ago) purchased this vehicle used. I took it to a garage and they (susposedly) inspected it and I was told it was a sound car. I had an oil change done 6 weeks after I bought it. 2 days after that the oil pressure was low and kept alarming. I parked the car immediately and called the garage back. It was towed there, and I was told the oil sending unit had gone bad. This and an O2 sensor was replaced. Within a few days of these repairs, I started running hot. Took it back to the shop and was told the cooling system needed to be flushed. Had this done....still running hot. Finallt took it to the Cadillac dealerdhip and they are saying I need a whole new engine. My question is this...How can I need an entire new engine when it still has all kinds of power, makes no noises, etc. I have blown engines in other cars and knew it right away. Other than getting hot, this one doesn't seem to have any other symptoms. I checked the oil, coolant, etc. All levels are fine. This is just not making sense to me.
Thanks..
Deanna
Thanks..
Deanna
tjm
07-28-2005, 09:14 AM
Ouch - you must be having trouble sleeping now.
I have a '97 with losta miles; 192,000. Still great.
Head gaskets are know to go bad but lets not jump to conclusions. There are MANY reasons why Auroras run hotter than they should.
How many miles on it?
What are the characteristics of temperature gauge?
how hot on the highway?
how hot idling in traffic?
any boilover?
do the hoses get hard after 15-20 min of driving?
do the fans run? (1 at first and then the 2nd one after 230*+/- i think)
I have a '97 with losta miles; 192,000. Still great.
Head gaskets are know to go bad but lets not jump to conclusions. There are MANY reasons why Auroras run hotter than they should.
How many miles on it?
What are the characteristics of temperature gauge?
how hot on the highway?
how hot idling in traffic?
any boilover?
do the hoses get hard after 15-20 min of driving?
do the fans run? (1 at first and then the 2nd one after 230*+/- i think)
d21156
07-28-2005, 01:55 PM
Ouch - you must be having trouble sleeping now.
I have a '97 with losta miles; 192,000. Still great.
Head gaskets are know to go bad but lets not jump to conclusions. There are MANY reasons why Auroras run hotter than they should.
How many miles on it?
What are the characteristics of temperature gauge?
how hot on the highway?
how hot idling in traffic?
any boilover?
do the hoses get hard after 15-20 min of driving?
do the fans run? (1 at first and then the 2nd one after 230*+/- i think)
It has always ran hotter than what I was used to, around 220. But I thought maybe the bigger engine, etc. I had it checked at the garage. They flushed the system, and told me that on a scan, the fan didn't even kick on till 229. It gets hot very quickly. (around 240 maybe) If I am on the highway and drive fast- 70 or over, and turn on the heater, it will go back down to around 220. ( I know this from the first time it happened. I was out and had to get back home) If I am idling it just keeps climbing. Never has been any boilover at all. I don't know about the hoses getting hard. (Usually to busy trying to watch everything and keep it inder control) :)
Deanna
I have a '97 with losta miles; 192,000. Still great.
Head gaskets are know to go bad but lets not jump to conclusions. There are MANY reasons why Auroras run hotter than they should.
How many miles on it?
What are the characteristics of temperature gauge?
how hot on the highway?
how hot idling in traffic?
any boilover?
do the hoses get hard after 15-20 min of driving?
do the fans run? (1 at first and then the 2nd one after 230*+/- i think)
It has always ran hotter than what I was used to, around 220. But I thought maybe the bigger engine, etc. I had it checked at the garage. They flushed the system, and told me that on a scan, the fan didn't even kick on till 229. It gets hot very quickly. (around 240 maybe) If I am on the highway and drive fast- 70 or over, and turn on the heater, it will go back down to around 220. ( I know this from the first time it happened. I was out and had to get back home) If I am idling it just keeps climbing. Never has been any boilover at all. I don't know about the hoses getting hard. (Usually to busy trying to watch everything and keep it inder control) :)
Deanna
tjm
07-28-2005, 03:02 PM
Lets assume that your engine is fine and take it from there...
Do you ever smell coolant?
Your thermostat may not be opening and needs to be replaced. I would start there; it's cheap and a good thing to eliminate.
Mine, and most others run 199 on the highway and will go up to 220 in traffic with occational tips above 220. You have 2 fans and the second fan should turn on at about 240 (the first one comes on much sooner).
Pressure is important to the system and you have to be sure that it can build up that pressure. If the hoses get hard then you have pressure. If they don't then you have a leak.
With the car COLD, remove the cap and be sure the coolant is up to the mark on the tank (just above the seam) do not top it off. Check this a few mornings in a row to be sure all the air is purged from the system. When the car gets hot (20 min) check to see if the hoses are hard. If they are not hard then look for a leak.
Worst case would be that a head gasket is bad and a cylinder is drawing coolant out of the system and you would have to add coolant very often. This situation would cause performance anomilies like rough idle when you first start the car in the morning.
OR...
The head gasket is bad and is adding hot exhaust gasses to the cooling system. This would typically build up too much pressure and coolant/gasses would purge out of the cap. The hoses would be hard with pressure but the 15 psi cap would relieve the excess and you would see it.
Do you ever smell coolant?
Your thermostat may not be opening and needs to be replaced. I would start there; it's cheap and a good thing to eliminate.
Mine, and most others run 199 on the highway and will go up to 220 in traffic with occational tips above 220. You have 2 fans and the second fan should turn on at about 240 (the first one comes on much sooner).
Pressure is important to the system and you have to be sure that it can build up that pressure. If the hoses get hard then you have pressure. If they don't then you have a leak.
With the car COLD, remove the cap and be sure the coolant is up to the mark on the tank (just above the seam) do not top it off. Check this a few mornings in a row to be sure all the air is purged from the system. When the car gets hot (20 min) check to see if the hoses are hard. If they are not hard then look for a leak.
Worst case would be that a head gasket is bad and a cylinder is drawing coolant out of the system and you would have to add coolant very often. This situation would cause performance anomilies like rough idle when you first start the car in the morning.
OR...
The head gasket is bad and is adding hot exhaust gasses to the cooling system. This would typically build up too much pressure and coolant/gasses would purge out of the cap. The hoses would be hard with pressure but the 15 psi cap would relieve the excess and you would see it.
d21156
07-29-2005, 12:19 PM
I have never smelled coolant...hot steamy smell, but not the coolant. The car has 112,000 miles. I checked the coolant the other day when it was cool, and it was fine. Right where it was supposed to be. I will check your other suggestions when I get home from work. I really appreciate your help. I really hope it is nothing major. I really love this car!
Lets assume that your engine is fine and take it from there...
Do you ever smell coolant?
Your thermostat may not be opening and needs to be replaced. I would start there; it's cheap and a good thing to eliminate.
Mine, and most others run 199 on the highway and will go up to 220 in traffic with occational tips above 220. You have 2 fans and the second fan should turn on at about 240 (the first one comes on much sooner).
Pressure is important to the system and you have to be sure that it can build up that pressure. If the hoses get hard then you have pressure. If they don't then you have a leak.
With the car COLD, remove the cap and be sure the coolant is up to the mark on the tank (just above the seam) do not top it off. Check this a few mornings in a row to be sure all the air is purged from the system. When the car gets hot (20 min) check to see if the hoses are hard. If they are not hard then look for a leak.
Worst case would be that a head gasket is bad and a cylinder is drawing coolant out of the system and you would have to add coolant very often. This situation would cause performance anomilies like rough idle when you first start the car in the morning.
OR...
The head gasket is bad and is adding hot exhaust gasses to the cooling system. This would typically build up too much pressure and coolant/gasses would purge out of the cap. The hoses would be hard with pressure but the 15 psi cap would relieve the excess and you would see it.
Lets assume that your engine is fine and take it from there...
Do you ever smell coolant?
Your thermostat may not be opening and needs to be replaced. I would start there; it's cheap and a good thing to eliminate.
Mine, and most others run 199 on the highway and will go up to 220 in traffic with occational tips above 220. You have 2 fans and the second fan should turn on at about 240 (the first one comes on much sooner).
Pressure is important to the system and you have to be sure that it can build up that pressure. If the hoses get hard then you have pressure. If they don't then you have a leak.
With the car COLD, remove the cap and be sure the coolant is up to the mark on the tank (just above the seam) do not top it off. Check this a few mornings in a row to be sure all the air is purged from the system. When the car gets hot (20 min) check to see if the hoses are hard. If they are not hard then look for a leak.
Worst case would be that a head gasket is bad and a cylinder is drawing coolant out of the system and you would have to add coolant very often. This situation would cause performance anomilies like rough idle when you first start the car in the morning.
OR...
The head gasket is bad and is adding hot exhaust gasses to the cooling system. This would typically build up too much pressure and coolant/gasses would purge out of the cap. The hoses would be hard with pressure but the 15 psi cap would relieve the excess and you would see it.
djw353
07-30-2005, 11:47 PM
Sometimes i smell engine coolant in my 96 aurora. Is this a bad thing?? My car does not leak coolant, but I smell it when i park it in the garage or when the fans are running. Please advise
Sweet William
07-31-2005, 08:22 AM
The water pump may have a small leak thru the weep hole. If it only leaks a few drops it's enough to smell when you say, but not enough to make a puddle. If you listen closely while the car is running you may here bearing noise from the pump.
tjm
08-01-2005, 12:40 PM
Sometimes i smell engine coolant in my 96 aurora. Is this a bad thing?? My car does not leak coolant, but I smell it when i park it in the garage or when the fans are running. Please advise
give it the sniff test with the engine off (after running a bit). SW has a good point but another spot to sniff is the top or the radiator on the passenger side. It's a typical spot on the classics that you can't see. There is a mounting post built into the radiator where the plastic commonly cracks. The leak is so slow that the coolant generally evaporates before it leaves a puddle. Sometimes you can see the residue as gravity draws it to the engine side of the plastic and is trickles down past the oil cooler lines.
give it the sniff test with the engine off (after running a bit). SW has a good point but another spot to sniff is the top or the radiator on the passenger side. It's a typical spot on the classics that you can't see. There is a mounting post built into the radiator where the plastic commonly cracks. The leak is so slow that the coolant generally evaporates before it leaves a puddle. Sometimes you can see the residue as gravity draws it to the engine side of the plastic and is trickles down past the oil cooler lines.
d21156
08-02-2005, 07:11 AM
It is going to the garage this morning! This guy is suppossed to be pretty good - even has his own radio talk show on WLW....I am keeping my fingers crossed it turns out to be something minor! Thanks for everyones imput, it is really appreciated. :) Deanna
tjm
08-02-2005, 08:47 AM
you're welcome
Keep us posted
Keep us posted
d21156
08-04-2005, 07:28 AM
so far, no news! Not sure if thats good or bad! :)
zephram22
08-23-2005, 10:25 PM
I recently (8 weeks ago) purchased this vehicle used. I took it to a garage and they (susposedly) inspected it and I was told it was a sound car. I had an oil change done 6 weeks after I bought it. 2 days after that the oil pressure was low and kept alarming. I parked the car immediately and called the garage back. It was towed there, and I was told the oil sending unit had gone bad. This and an O2 sensor was replaced. Within a few days of these repairs, I started running hot. Took it back to the shop and was told the cooling system needed to be flushed. Had this done....still running hot. Finallt took it to the Cadillac dealerdhip and they are saying I need a whole new engine. My question is this...How can I need an entire new engine when it still has all kinds of power, makes no noises, etc. I have blown engines in other cars and knew it right away. Other than getting hot, this one doesn't seem to have any other symptoms. I checked the oil, coolant, etc. All levels are fine. This is just not making sense to me.
Thanks..
Deanna
Don't feel bad, I'm have the same problems with the 2002 I bought 10 weeks ago.
Thanks..
Deanna
Don't feel bad, I'm have the same problems with the 2002 I bought 10 weeks ago.
zephram22
08-23-2005, 10:26 PM
The water pump may have a small leak thru the weep hole. If it only leaks a few drops it's enough to smell when you say, but not enough to make a puddle. If you listen closely while the car is running you may here bearing noise from the pump.
Hey, thanks for pointing that out. You may have saved me a lot of time.
Hey, thanks for pointing that out. You may have saved me a lot of time.
zephram22
08-23-2005, 10:31 PM
Lets assume that your engine is fine and take it from there...
Do you ever smell coolant?
Your thermostat may not be opening and needs to be replaced. I would start there; it's cheap and a good thing to eliminate. {snip}
Tjm,
Have you ever heard of a thermastat opening and closing at random while driving? I ask, because as I'm sure your aware of my coolant issues, etc... Seems to happen after the car warms up. Temp is fine, temp gage then goes crazy and DIC goes nuts, etc. No visible signs of overheating in the engine. Turn car off, then back on after a minute and let it idle and gage drops back to normal. I normally wouldn't be concerned, but the car is doing this on an increasing basis. About 2 - 3 times a day now. And, of course, there is evidence of air in the coolant lines as I have mentioned in other posts.
Do you ever smell coolant?
Your thermostat may not be opening and needs to be replaced. I would start there; it's cheap and a good thing to eliminate. {snip}
Tjm,
Have you ever heard of a thermastat opening and closing at random while driving? I ask, because as I'm sure your aware of my coolant issues, etc... Seems to happen after the car warms up. Temp is fine, temp gage then goes crazy and DIC goes nuts, etc. No visible signs of overheating in the engine. Turn car off, then back on after a minute and let it idle and gage drops back to normal. I normally wouldn't be concerned, but the car is doing this on an increasing basis. About 2 - 3 times a day now. And, of course, there is evidence of air in the coolant lines as I have mentioned in other posts.
d21156
10-24-2005, 06:40 AM
Don't feel bad, I'm have the same problems with the 2002 I bought 10 weeks ago.
The car lot is finally going to go get the car. They did not want the private garage to do the work, but rather the garage they use. My plans are to take it right back to my own guy as soon as they finish and if it is not right, (as from what I am reading here, these engines can be quite sensitive) the car dealer is getting it back PERIOD! We have had this car since June, drove 8 or 9 weeks, the rest of the time it has been sitting at a garage, and we have been making the payments right on time! I am just tired of the whole mess!! The Aurora is the sharpest looking car on the market, but I need it to run!!!
The car lot is finally going to go get the car. They did not want the private garage to do the work, but rather the garage they use. My plans are to take it right back to my own guy as soon as they finish and if it is not right, (as from what I am reading here, these engines can be quite sensitive) the car dealer is getting it back PERIOD! We have had this car since June, drove 8 or 9 weeks, the rest of the time it has been sitting at a garage, and we have been making the payments right on time! I am just tired of the whole mess!! The Aurora is the sharpest looking car on the market, but I need it to run!!!
Indy8
10-24-2005, 10:50 AM
Ahhh...., another satisfied American car buyer!!
lilmama
02-05-2006, 02:53 AM
can someone please send me the repair manual for the 97 Aurora
lilmama
02-22-2006, 11:29 PM
Hey,
I have tried everything to fix my baby. Can someone please point me in the right direction for a new motor and a repair manual. I have a 97 Aurora. It my big baby. It over heats all the time. I replaced everything and finially its down to the motor. I don't want to buy a used one and rick getting a bad one. I can't find a place that rebuilds for a reasonable price in chicago. Please help me save my baby.
I have tried everything to fix my baby. Can someone please point me in the right direction for a new motor and a repair manual. I have a 97 Aurora. It my big baby. It over heats all the time. I replaced everything and finially its down to the motor. I don't want to buy a used one and rick getting a bad one. I can't find a place that rebuilds for a reasonable price in chicago. Please help me save my baby.
androsvalentino
02-23-2006, 01:00 AM
hang in there. don't give up. water pump, thermostat, radiator. i also need to get service manual. lookin. on cd is good, book is always best to have. i'll post when and where i get one and how much.
protek22
02-23-2006, 06:21 AM
Aurora factory service manuals can be obtained new at:
www.helminc.com
They can also be obtained used on ebay
Aurora Engines are best obtained via GM, you may want to check with a reputable Caddie or Olds dealer in your area about getting one and having it installed. I believe these engines come with a three year or fifty thousand mile warranty, or something like that.
www.helminc.com
They can also be obtained used on ebay
Aurora Engines are best obtained via GM, you may want to check with a reputable Caddie or Olds dealer in your area about getting one and having it installed. I believe these engines come with a three year or fifty thousand mile warranty, or something like that.
papasmith
05-15-2006, 01:41 AM
My question is this...How can I need an entire new engine when it still has all kinds of power, makes no noises, etc. I have blown engines in other cars and knew it right away. Other than getting hot, this one doesn't seem to have any other symptoms. I checked the oil, coolant, etc. All levels are fine. This is just not making sense to me.
Thanks..
Deanna[/QUOTE]
I am curious. Did you ever get this problem resolved and if so what was it? I end by wishing you luck. These cars are known to be highly problematic.
Thanks..
Deanna[/QUOTE]
I am curious. Did you ever get this problem resolved and if so what was it? I end by wishing you luck. These cars are known to be highly problematic.
HARDTIMER
05-19-2006, 02:21 AM
check air deflector, may have been removed during repairs and not put back OR PUT BACK RIGHT! Ive heard in other forums of auroras running hot and that was the problem or simply the thermostat!. Hope this helps
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