2000 D acting up (again)
jphalen
07-27-2005, 08:10 AM
I have a 2000 SLT (4 wheel) with the 5.9l engine AT and every option under the sun.
It has good regular preventitive maintance close to what D-C recomends . About a year ago when it hit 70k milles it started to hiccup once in a while during highway speeds I had a tune up and everything was great for about a week.
It started to hessitate more often and would get progressivly worse as I drove the beast. Almost like it is is not getting enough fuel or the spark is deterorating as I drive.
I have had it to several shops both national chains and local grease shops and the dealer. No one can figure out why it is doing this. Most tell me I need a tune up or fuel injectors and send me on my way.
I have the thought of it possibly being the C-Converter. But before I head out to the garage with my sawz-all to cut out the converter I wanted to see if anyone has had any similar experience.
Odd thing is that it will deterorate until the point It will no longer run and I have to be towed home. But the very next day I can jump in a drive away and it will run like a scared rabbit for about an hour.
Thanks in advance for any help or insight.
It has good regular preventitive maintance close to what D-C recomends . About a year ago when it hit 70k milles it started to hiccup once in a while during highway speeds I had a tune up and everything was great for about a week.
It started to hessitate more often and would get progressivly worse as I drove the beast. Almost like it is is not getting enough fuel or the spark is deterorating as I drive.
I have had it to several shops both national chains and local grease shops and the dealer. No one can figure out why it is doing this. Most tell me I need a tune up or fuel injectors and send me on my way.
I have the thought of it possibly being the C-Converter. But before I head out to the garage with my sawz-all to cut out the converter I wanted to see if anyone has had any similar experience.
Odd thing is that it will deterorate until the point It will no longer run and I have to be towed home. But the very next day I can jump in a drive away and it will run like a scared rabbit for about an hour.
Thanks in advance for any help or insight.
jphalen
08-01-2005, 01:01 PM
Anyone?? anyone at all?
Guess I am on my own on this I am headed to go and hack off the converter see if that does anything.
Guess I am on my own on this I am headed to go and hack off the converter see if that does anything.
suburban_lee
08-08-2005, 04:03 PM
Anyone?? anyone at all?
Guess I am on my own on this I am headed to go and hack off the converter see if that does anything.
Doesn't sound like a converter to me. Is she throwing any codes before or when she craps out? Is this happening everytime you drive for a certain period of time, i.e. after an hour, but never happen on short runs? I'm wondering if heat buildup on an ignition component could be the culprit.
Guess I am on my own on this I am headed to go and hack off the converter see if that does anything.
Doesn't sound like a converter to me. Is she throwing any codes before or when she craps out? Is this happening everytime you drive for a certain period of time, i.e. after an hour, but never happen on short runs? I'm wondering if heat buildup on an ignition component could be the culprit.
jphalen
08-10-2005, 03:50 PM
The check engine light was on once about a year ago when all of this started happening. I took it to the dealership and they told me the scanner pickup a slight misfire. They could not figure out what cylinder it was so they figured I only needed a tune up. So after a 300.00 tune up all was fine for about 30 miles then the same thing.
It did throw a code the last time I was stuck and waiting for the tow truck. It flashed for a second while I was turning it over trying to get it started. I may have turned it over 50-60 times that afternoon. But i did not write the number down.
My very first thought on all of this was that is had to be the coil that was going belly up when heat got to it. Since while I drive at highway speeds it will run longer with out acting up and with the coil sitting out front I figure it was getting more air at speed. The engine compartment of these durangos get extremely hot when they are idle. More so than most cars I have worked on. But I was told that if it was the coil the scanner would have picked it up. I think one of the problems is that "new" mechanics can not diagnose any problem with out a scanner. The car could be throwing flames out the TB but if it does not show a code they would have no clue that there was anything even wrong.
I have not cut the converter off yet either.
Jeff
It did throw a code the last time I was stuck and waiting for the tow truck. It flashed for a second while I was turning it over trying to get it started. I may have turned it over 50-60 times that afternoon. But i did not write the number down.
My very first thought on all of this was that is had to be the coil that was going belly up when heat got to it. Since while I drive at highway speeds it will run longer with out acting up and with the coil sitting out front I figure it was getting more air at speed. The engine compartment of these durangos get extremely hot when they are idle. More so than most cars I have worked on. But I was told that if it was the coil the scanner would have picked it up. I think one of the problems is that "new" mechanics can not diagnose any problem with out a scanner. The car could be throwing flames out the TB but if it does not show a code they would have no clue that there was anything even wrong.
I have not cut the converter off yet either.
Jeff
suburban_lee
08-11-2005, 08:14 AM
The check engine light was on once about a year ago when all of this started happening. I took it to the dealership and they told me the scanner pickup a slight misfire. They could not figure out what cylinder it was so they figured I only needed a tune up. So after a 300.00 tune up all was fine for about 30 miles then the same thing.
It did throw a code the last time I was stuck and waiting for the tow truck. It flashed for a second while I was turning it over trying to get it started. I may have turned it over 50-60 times that afternoon. But i did not write the number down.
My very first thought on all of this was that is had to be the coil that was going belly up when heat got to it. Since while I drive at highway speeds it will run longer with out acting up and with the coil sitting out front I figure it was getting more air at speed. The engine compartment of these durangos get extremely hot when they are idle. More so than most cars I have worked on. But I was told that if it was the coil the scanner would have picked it up. I think one of the problems is that "new" mechanics can not diagnose any problem with out a scanner. The car could be throwing flames out the TB but if it does not show a code they would have no clue that there was anything even wrong.
I have not cut the converter off yet either.
Jeff
Jeff,
I think I would hold off on reaching for the Sawz-All, but I've had problems that have made me feel the same way.
I was leaning toward the coil, also, when I first read the description. I don't know what a $300 tune up entails these days, as I always do my own. Did they replace your ignition wires, distributer cap and rotor? If not, I would do that. Since the coil is suspect, have you replaced that? They're relatively inexpensive.
The next time you get this thing to act up, you would be well off to determine whether you are lacking spark or fuel - I'm wondering if you could have a fuel pump that is heating up and going out temporarily
It did throw a code the last time I was stuck and waiting for the tow truck. It flashed for a second while I was turning it over trying to get it started. I may have turned it over 50-60 times that afternoon. But i did not write the number down.
My very first thought on all of this was that is had to be the coil that was going belly up when heat got to it. Since while I drive at highway speeds it will run longer with out acting up and with the coil sitting out front I figure it was getting more air at speed. The engine compartment of these durangos get extremely hot when they are idle. More so than most cars I have worked on. But I was told that if it was the coil the scanner would have picked it up. I think one of the problems is that "new" mechanics can not diagnose any problem with out a scanner. The car could be throwing flames out the TB but if it does not show a code they would have no clue that there was anything even wrong.
I have not cut the converter off yet either.
Jeff
Jeff,
I think I would hold off on reaching for the Sawz-All, but I've had problems that have made me feel the same way.
I was leaning toward the coil, also, when I first read the description. I don't know what a $300 tune up entails these days, as I always do my own. Did they replace your ignition wires, distributer cap and rotor? If not, I would do that. Since the coil is suspect, have you replaced that? They're relatively inexpensive.
The next time you get this thing to act up, you would be well off to determine whether you are lacking spark or fuel - I'm wondering if you could have a fuel pump that is heating up and going out temporarily
suburban_lee
08-11-2005, 08:17 AM
The check engine light was on once about a year ago when all of this started happening. I took it to the dealership and they told me the scanner pickup a slight misfire. They could not figure out what cylinder it was so they figured I only needed a tune up. So after a 300.00 tune up all was fine for about 30 miles then the same thing.
It did throw a code the last time I was stuck and waiting for the tow truck. It flashed for a second while I was turning it over trying to get it started. I may have turned it over 50-60 times that afternoon. But i did not write the number down.
My very first thought on all of this was that is had to be the coil that was going belly up when heat got to it. Since while I drive at highway speeds it will run longer with out acting up and with the coil sitting out front I figure it was getting more air at speed. The engine compartment of these durangos get extremely hot when they are idle. More so than most cars I have worked on. But I was told that if it was the coil the scanner would have picked it up. I think one of the problems is that "new" mechanics can not diagnose any problem with out a scanner. The car could be throwing flames out the TB but if it does not show a code they would have no clue that there was anything even wrong.
I have not cut the converter off yet either.
Jeff
Jeff,
I think I would hold off on reaching for the Sawz-All, but I've had problems that have made me feel the same way.
I was leaning toward the coil, also, when I first read the description. I don't know what a $300 tune up entails these days, as I always do my own. Did they replace your ignition wires, distributer cap and rotor? If not, I would do that. Since the coil is suspect, have you replaced that? They're relatively inexpensive.
The next time you get this thing to act up, you would be well off to determine whether you are lacking spark or fuel - I'm wondering if you could have a fuel pump that is heating up and going out temporarily. I think that a cheap fuel pressure guage runs under $30. Maybe keep one in the vehicle and check the pressure on the rail when you have this condition.
Lee
It did throw a code the last time I was stuck and waiting for the tow truck. It flashed for a second while I was turning it over trying to get it started. I may have turned it over 50-60 times that afternoon. But i did not write the number down.
My very first thought on all of this was that is had to be the coil that was going belly up when heat got to it. Since while I drive at highway speeds it will run longer with out acting up and with the coil sitting out front I figure it was getting more air at speed. The engine compartment of these durangos get extremely hot when they are idle. More so than most cars I have worked on. But I was told that if it was the coil the scanner would have picked it up. I think one of the problems is that "new" mechanics can not diagnose any problem with out a scanner. The car could be throwing flames out the TB but if it does not show a code they would have no clue that there was anything even wrong.
I have not cut the converter off yet either.
Jeff
Jeff,
I think I would hold off on reaching for the Sawz-All, but I've had problems that have made me feel the same way.
I was leaning toward the coil, also, when I first read the description. I don't know what a $300 tune up entails these days, as I always do my own. Did they replace your ignition wires, distributer cap and rotor? If not, I would do that. Since the coil is suspect, have you replaced that? They're relatively inexpensive.
The next time you get this thing to act up, you would be well off to determine whether you are lacking spark or fuel - I'm wondering if you could have a fuel pump that is heating up and going out temporarily. I think that a cheap fuel pressure guage runs under $30. Maybe keep one in the vehicle and check the pressure on the rail when you have this condition.
Lee
jphalen
11-13-2005, 03:52 PM
OK, An update on the D....
After taking the thing to 2 more "mechanics" that could not see anything was wrong I decided to go with my first instinct and yank out the coil to check it. Low and behold... the ignition coil was completely split open on the bottom and looked as if it had been this way for some time. The plates had rusted so bad the plastic had to pulled off just to get to the bolts. (I posted a photo of it) I replaced the 40.00 coil last night and have put about 60 miles on the truck without any problems coming up at all with the exception of the P0138 code (o2 sensor going high). So noe my question is should I just replace the o2 sensor or look for another problem upstream of the sensor.
I have to say that I have lost a lot of faith in certified mechanics because of this. It never showed a code for the coil being bad so they never even looked at it.
I guess they are looking for Zebras when the problem is as common as a the average mule. (doesnt make too much sence but my father used to tell me that all the time)
Jeff,
I think I would hold off on reaching for the Sawz-All, but I've had problems that have made me feel the same way.
I was leaning toward the coil, also, when I first read the description. I don't know what a $300 tune up entails these days, as I always do my own. Did they replace your ignition wires, distributer cap and rotor? If not, I would do that. Since the coil is suspect, have you replaced that? They're relatively inexpensive.
The next time you get this thing to act up, you would be well off to determine whether you are lacking spark or fuel - I'm wondering if you could have a fuel pump that is heating up and going out temporarily. I think that a cheap fuel pressure guage runs under $30. Maybe keep one in the vehicle and check the pressure on the rail when you have this condition.
Lee
After taking the thing to 2 more "mechanics" that could not see anything was wrong I decided to go with my first instinct and yank out the coil to check it. Low and behold... the ignition coil was completely split open on the bottom and looked as if it had been this way for some time. The plates had rusted so bad the plastic had to pulled off just to get to the bolts. (I posted a photo of it) I replaced the 40.00 coil last night and have put about 60 miles on the truck without any problems coming up at all with the exception of the P0138 code (o2 sensor going high). So noe my question is should I just replace the o2 sensor or look for another problem upstream of the sensor.
I have to say that I have lost a lot of faith in certified mechanics because of this. It never showed a code for the coil being bad so they never even looked at it.
I guess they are looking for Zebras when the problem is as common as a the average mule. (doesnt make too much sence but my father used to tell me that all the time)
Jeff,
I think I would hold off on reaching for the Sawz-All, but I've had problems that have made me feel the same way.
I was leaning toward the coil, also, when I first read the description. I don't know what a $300 tune up entails these days, as I always do my own. Did they replace your ignition wires, distributer cap and rotor? If not, I would do that. Since the coil is suspect, have you replaced that? They're relatively inexpensive.
The next time you get this thing to act up, you would be well off to determine whether you are lacking spark or fuel - I'm wondering if you could have a fuel pump that is heating up and going out temporarily. I think that a cheap fuel pressure guage runs under $30. Maybe keep one in the vehicle and check the pressure on the rail when you have this condition.
Lee
Beachitmom
12-14-2005, 02:02 PM
OK, An update on the D....
After taking the thing to 2 more "mechanics" that could not see anything was wrong I decided to go with my first instinct and yank out the coil to check it. Low and behold... the ignition coil was completely split open on the bottom and looked as if it had been this way for some time. The plates had rusted so bad the plastic had to pulled off just to get to the bolts. (I posted a photo of it) I replaced the 40.00 coil last night and have put about 60 miles on the truck without any problems coming up at all with the exception of the P0138 code (o2 sensor going high). So noe my question is should I just replace the o2 sensor or look for another problem upstream of the sensor.
I have to say that I have lost a lot of faith in certified mechanics because of this. It never showed a code for the coil being bad so they never even looked at it.
I guess they are looking for Zebras when the problem is as common as a the average mule. (doesnt make too much sence but my father used to tell me that all the time)
I know it's been a while, but I was wondering if your problem was solved. I have a 2001 and the engine light came on. I found this website and learned how to get the code. I got a "P0138"
You said it is the 02 sensor(whatever that means) Was there more than that wrong with your truck? I am going to give the info to my hubby after much research online!
Thanks for any help or input.
After taking the thing to 2 more "mechanics" that could not see anything was wrong I decided to go with my first instinct and yank out the coil to check it. Low and behold... the ignition coil was completely split open on the bottom and looked as if it had been this way for some time. The plates had rusted so bad the plastic had to pulled off just to get to the bolts. (I posted a photo of it) I replaced the 40.00 coil last night and have put about 60 miles on the truck without any problems coming up at all with the exception of the P0138 code (o2 sensor going high). So noe my question is should I just replace the o2 sensor or look for another problem upstream of the sensor.
I have to say that I have lost a lot of faith in certified mechanics because of this. It never showed a code for the coil being bad so they never even looked at it.
I guess they are looking for Zebras when the problem is as common as a the average mule. (doesnt make too much sence but my father used to tell me that all the time)
I know it's been a while, but I was wondering if your problem was solved. I have a 2001 and the engine light came on. I found this website and learned how to get the code. I got a "P0138"
You said it is the 02 sensor(whatever that means) Was there more than that wrong with your truck? I am going to give the info to my hubby after much research online!
Thanks for any help or input.
jphalen
12-14-2005, 02:21 PM
I know it's been a while, but I was wondering if your problem was solved. I have a 2001 and the engine light came on. I found this website and learned how to get the code. I got a "P0138"
You said it is the 02 sensor(whatever that means) Was there more than that wrong with your truck? I am going to give the info to my hubby after much research online!
Thanks for any help or input.
It has been running great for awhile now. And the code has magicily disapeared. I think (I could be wrong) that when I was cranking the motor over and over when the coil was going I may have damaged the O2 sensor. I was all set to go out and work on changing it so I decided to check and make sure I had the correct code. I was not able to get any codes to come up. I have put about 700 miles on it since the code came up originally. So far, (knock on wood) there has not been any problems what so ever ......except the thing realy takes a long time to heat up the interior when it is cold. I'm in North West Ohio and it has been a bit chilly here lately. (un heated leather seats dont help either)
Happy Holidays!
Jeff
You said it is the 02 sensor(whatever that means) Was there more than that wrong with your truck? I am going to give the info to my hubby after much research online!
Thanks for any help or input.
It has been running great for awhile now. And the code has magicily disapeared. I think (I could be wrong) that when I was cranking the motor over and over when the coil was going I may have damaged the O2 sensor. I was all set to go out and work on changing it so I decided to check and make sure I had the correct code. I was not able to get any codes to come up. I have put about 700 miles on it since the code came up originally. So far, (knock on wood) there has not been any problems what so ever ......except the thing realy takes a long time to heat up the interior when it is cold. I'm in North West Ohio and it has been a bit chilly here lately. (un heated leather seats dont help either)
Happy Holidays!
Jeff
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