My GT lacks power and there is an odd smell...please help!

Hi,
I have a 01 grand prix GT and recently had to have my ignition coil, spark plug wire and plug replaced on cylinder 2. Now my car lacks power whenever I try to accelerate and even more so if I try to hit the passing gear. The engine will rev up to 4k rpms and then bog. It seems as though the car is trying to red line at 4k rpms. I notice that if I try to force the car to go, it jerks. Also, yesterday I noticed an odd smell when I opened the door. It kind of smelled like an electrical burning smell or like the car was overheating. Also, the low coolant light keeps coming on, although I had it checked and there is plenty of coolant there. Anyone have any suggestions? A friend thinks it could be the CAT converter or oil filter.
Thanks,
SM

Hi,
I have a 01 grand prix GT and recently had to have my ignition coil, spark plug wire and plug replaced on cylinder 2. Now my car lacks power whenever I try to accelerate and even more so if I try to hit the passing gear. The engine will rev up to 4k rpms and then bog. It seems as though the car is trying to red line at 4k rpms. I notice that if I try to force the car to go, it jerks. Also, yesterday I noticed an odd smell when I opened the door. It kind of smelled like an electrical burning smell or like the car was overheating. Also, the low coolant light keeps coming on, although I had it checked and there is plenty of coolant there. Anyone have any suggestions? A friend thinks it could be the CAT converter or oil filter.
Thanks,
SM


How many miles are on your GP? CAT convertor is a good possibility based on your symptoms. Also clean the MAF sensor located on the throttle body.

On low coolant light, the cooling system may need bleeding or the coolant level sensor located on the right hand side of the radiator may be defective.




http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

have someone check for a coolant leak in the upper plenum. It's a common problem, and could be causing your symptoms as well. Why did you only replace the #2 spark plug?

My car has almost 58k miles. I've heard that when the CAT goes bad that it produces a rotten egg smell. The type of smell coming from my car smells like a electrical burning smell. It's confusing.

Thanks for the help!


How many miles are on your GP? CAT convertor is a good possibility based on your symptoms. Also clean the MAF sensor located on the throttle body.

On low coolant light, the cooling system may need bleeding or the coolant level sensor located on the right hand side of the radiator may be defective.




http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

We only replaced the #2 plug, wire and coil. The bad coil damaged the spark plug. We found this problem through a computer test that showed a missfire on cylinder 2.

Thanks for the help!


have someone check for a coolant leak in the upper plenum. It's a common problem, and could be causing your symptoms as well. Why did you only replace the #2 spark plug?

My car has almost 58k miles. I've heard that when the CAT goes bad that it produces a rotten egg smell. The type of smell coming from my car smells like a electrical burning smell. It's confusing.

Thanks for the help!


I've heard of CATs going bad around 50K miles but normally its well after 80K miles. Have you pinpointed where the smell is coming from? Won't hurt to lift the hood and sniff around the engine compartment.

Richtazz suggested an Upper Manifold Intake (UIM) gasket leak. Another issue on the Series II 3800 engine is the UIM plastic melting from a sticking EGR valve. The plastic would give a smell similar to burnt electrical components. I'd have it checked out as soon as possible.



http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

The smell is not coming from under the hood. It seems to be coming from the undercarriage with it being strongest around the driver's door. It smells like a very hot metal burning.


I've heard of CATs going bad around 50K miles but normally its well after 80K miles. Have you pinpointed where the smell is coming from? Won't hurt to lift the hood and sniff around the engine compartment.

Richtazz suggested an Upper Manifold Intake (UIM) gasket leak. Another issue on the Series II 3800 engine is the UIM plastic melting from a sticking EGR valve. The plastic would give a smell similar to burnt electrical components. I'd have it checked out as soon as possible.



http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

The smell is not coming from under the hood. It seems to be coming from the undercarriage with it being strongest around the driver's door. It smells like a very hot metal burning.


Since you have the smell pinpointed to the undercarriage, I would suggest doing a visual inspection of the area underneath the driver's side of the car. The CAT convertor and resonator run down the middle of the car and they do burn hot. To the left of the exhaust are the brake lines feeding the rear disk brakes, evaporative emissions lines and a fuel line.

BTW - A clogged or bad CAT convertor doesn't always just give off a smell of rotten eggs. Sometimes they smell like plastic burning. I'd suggest taking the car to the dealer and have the CAT convertor tested. If found defective it will be replaced under GMs emissions warranty which I believe is 8 years or 80,000 miles.

Your symptoms are consistent with a defective CAT convertor. The engine will cut out at higher rpms and its like hitting a wall.

Also check for a Service Engine Soon (SES) light on the dash.



Good luck!

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

Run over any plastic bags lately? They can make a wonderful stink when they wrap around the converter!

My clogged catelytic convertor didn't give off a smell and, at first, my 01 GT was having similar synthom as sonyamon28's. My car was very slow to accerlerate... Initially we thought it was the transmission but tranny shop ruled the engine. At the end, my pontiac dealership diagnosed & replaced the clogged catelytic convertor free of charge under the California Emission Warranty free of charge... They got me for $270 to clean the fuel injectors & an engine de-carbon service. Now my car runs smoother than ever...

BTW, the 8 yr/80K warranty is only good if you lives in CA, MA, VT and portion of NY... The federal emission warranty is only 3 yr/50K.

BTW, the 8 yr/80K warranty is only good if you lives in CA, MA, VT and portion of NY... The federal emission warranty is only 3 yr/50K.


Thats incorrect. :shakehead GM's emissions warranty on a CAT convertor or powertrain control module is 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever comes first. It is not limited to the states you mentioned. I had the first CAT convertor replaced in my '97 GTP at 70K miles and it was free of charge. I'm in Texas. Need to read the Warranty and Owner Assistance Information booklets again. I checked from 1997 up to 2002 and manuals from 4 different GM cars that I own.



http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

I decided to take my car to the Pontiac Dealership here in Miami and they diagnosed it as the CAT converter. They said that it was almost completely clogged. They ordered a new one and I am waiting to have it replaced. I live in Florida and it is covered under the warranty.

Thanks to everyone for your help!

Yours & mines are both 01 GrandPrix. My 01 has only 48K miles on it and the Cat convertor looked perfectly fine from the outside. The 4 other GM/Ford cars I had driven or owned with 10+ and 160K+, I never changed cat on them.

Can someone explain to me why and how it got clogged? Is it the Mobil/Exxon fuel we used? We don't idle the car and most trips are highway.

Yours & mines are both 01 GrandPrix. My 01 has only 48K miles on it and the Cat convertor looked perfectly fine from the outside. The 4 other GM/Ford cars I had driven or owned with 10+ and 160K+, I never changed cat on them.

Can someone explain to me why and how it got clogged? Is it the Mobil/Exxon fuel we used? We don't idle the car and most trips are highway.

It doesn't take much to damage a CAT convertor on a GM "W" body car whether it has a 3.1L V6 or 3800 Series II V6 with SC or without. One episode of poor gasoline can cause a misfire condition which cause the PCM to force the fuel injectors to go rich. When this occurs the internal CAT temperatures exceed 1200 degrees fahrenheit and causes a meltdown of the internal core which is turn is the clogging effect. Once the harm is done, it cannot be reversed and it will get worse with progressively more mileage. A simple bad spark plug or ignition wire can cause the CAT to go South.

Also an intake manifold leak of coolant into the combustion chamber can cause a similar problem. The excess coolant via the exhaust will run into the CAT convertor raising temperatures whereby causing a meltdown.

Hope the info helps.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

I have a 97 1/2 regal GS....had similar problem,I went to Taco Bell and sat in the drive through for like 10 mins. as i left i noticed the car was bogging down w/ a HORRIBLE ODOR. When i looked under the hood i noticed one of the wires came off spark plug...I re-attached and got back in the car,looked over at my friend, he had a big grin ear to ear, then heard WOMP....right from his bung hole. I opened windows, got on highway.....no more bogging down or odor....BEWARE OF THE BELL!

P.S> Later on i let one rip too, but was on the HWY and locked the window on my friend....SWEET REVENGE

[QUOTE=bnaylor3400]It doesn't take much to damage a CAT convertor on a GM "W" body car whether it has a 3.1L V6 or 3800 Series II V6 with SC or without. One episode of poor gasoline can cause a misfire condition which cause the PCM to force the fuel injectors to go rich. When this occurs the internal CAT temperatures exceed 1200 degrees fahrenheit and causes a meltdown of the internal core which is turn is the clogging effect. Once the harm is done, it cannot be reversed and it will get worse with progressively more mileage. A simple bad spark plug or ignition wire can cause the CAT to go South.

Also an intake manifold leak of coolant into the combustion chamber can cause a similar problem. The excess coolant via the exhaust will run into the CAT convertor raising temperatures whereby causing a meltdown.

Hope the info helps.


Good news,
I got my Grand Prix back from the dealer. They replaced the CAT and it drives like a dream. Plenty of power! Thanks to every one for your help. Now all I gotta do is figure out why I get the low coolant message flashing on my dash......................

Thats good news Sonyamon28. Glad you got it fixed.

On the low coolant level, there is a coolant level sensor located on the right hand side (passenger) of the radiator about 3 inches below the filler neck and radiator cap. Sometimes the electrical connection to the sensor gets corrosion. Some people get the problem resolved by removing the sensor and cleaning it.

Also there may be air in the cooling system and all it needs is a bleeding.

To check the coolant level with engine cold and off, remove the radiator cap. Let the engine warm up until the thermostat opens. Then visually check the level at the filler neck. If low add a 50/50 mix of Dexcool until the level comes up. Replace radiator cap and then monitor the light.
Good luck!



http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104s,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials