Some Updated Bodywork Pics

Ok for some of you a.k.a. HiFlow this is long overdue. But After many distractions and set-backs I finally am making progress on the Stang again. So I have a few new pics:

First these are just a couple pics of what it looked like last June.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3150/10622Picture_016.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3150/10622Picture_019.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3150/10622Picture_017.jpg

Ok now the new.... please excuse the quality, bad lighting, and the dirty glass. I was gonna wait till tom when I roll it out into the sunlight but some people couldn't wait. So I figured I might as well show them to you guys too.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3150/10622P7240797-med.JPG
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3150/10622P7240798-med.JPG
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3150/10622P7240796-med.JPG

And that spot that looks like faded paint on the front quarters are actually stripes using Ice Pearl. Hopefully tom I will roll it out in the sun and you will get to see what the stripes really look like cause the pop like a bastard in the sunlight.

Anyway I still have some more parts to paint and I need to sand the clear and put on some flo-coats of clear and then powerbuff. So a few more weeks and I may finally have the car back on the road.

the paint looks nice

That is an awesome color. What blue is that? Very nice choice.

Good looking car.

the car looks great. i really like the color, what is it called?

Here is some more pics I took today after I rolled it outside. Car still def needs to be sanded and re-cleared but it's definetly got potential.

You can kinda see the stripes and the ffect a little in this picture.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3150/10622P7250813-med.JPG

Start to see it a little more:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3150/10622P7250814-med.JPG

Still can seem to get the full effect with a Camera but you get the idea.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3150/10622P7250810-med.JPG

Picture of the stripe going down the side can see some of the orange peel I need to sand out.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3150/10622P7250811-med.JPG

Just the back again.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3150/10622P7250815-med.JPG

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3150/10622P7250812-med.JPG

I love watching progress pics of complete body work / paint jobs. People think it's so hard to paint a car, when it's mostly just being patient, taking your time and making sure your prep is right.

Did you color sand between coats, then on your final coat and polish? I see you have orange peel so I'm assuming not.

Now that is sharp!

I like it alot can't wait to see her with bumpers and all

I love watching progress pics of complete body work / paint jobs. People think it's so hard to paint a car, when it's mostly just being patient, taking your time and making sure your prep is right.

Did you color sand between coats, then on your final coat and polish? I see you have orange peel so I'm assuming not.

I didn't sand between color coats.... I almost never do here is why... Most of your new paints really do not require color sanding and nothing a far as depth is really gained. Also I wetsand my primer starting from 400 and work up to 800 so by the time I lay down the basecoat color sanding the color would not gain me a lot more levelness.

The basecoat needs to be cleared within 24 hours of spraying or you need to sand respray more color and then clear. I had to be somewhere so I threw one real quick but pretty wet coat of clear on just so I didn't have to re basecoat, that is what your looking at why you see so much orange peel.

I was planning anyway to re-clear with some flo-coats to get rid of the lines cause from taping off the stripes. To do this I need to wetsand and re-clear the car anyway so it was not a big deal. So next clear there will be almost no orange peel cause I'm gonna take my time but I will wetsand with 2000grit and powerbuff anyway just to get that always wet look.

You color sand your primer with 800? The finest I go is 320 on primer, because your base needs something to hold on too. Plus you're still going to have orange peel that will need to be addressed when you wet sand the clear.

For the clear on my cars I block wet sand with 800 and work to 2500.

I guess there is more than one way to skin a cat.

By the way, you never sand on a base coat, or atleast the paint I shoot, unless like GT mentioned sand and re-spray.

You color sand your primer with 800? The finest I go is 320 on primer, because your base needs something to hold on too. Plus you're still going to have orange peel that will need to be addressed when you wet sand the clear.

For the clear on my cars I block wet sand with 800 and work to 2500.

I guess there is more than one way to skin a cat.

By the way, you never sand on a base coat, or atleast the paint I shoot, unless like GT mentioned sand and re-spray.

Like you said there is more than one way to skin a cat. 320 on a DA is what I usually start with to take paint off. I never prime over anything less than a 600grit finish just always comes out much better in the end for me. 320 I can see the scratches still in the primer.

As far as the physical adehsion of the paint yes you don't want too fine cause the scratches actually give it it's pyhsical adehision. But that is much more of a problem with spraying on top of a clearcoat than it is a base. I always use an expoxy primer usually PPG DP which bases likes to stick to a lot better chemically than etching and other types of primer so the pyhsical adhesion is not as needed with this set-up.

As far as orange peel in the clear I have learned to spray very wet to the point of almost running it(Trick taught to me by a very talented painter). This helps to eliminate almost all orange peel. Yes there will still be some you can't spray clear without some orange peel. But what I end up with is so little that wetsanding wit just 2000grit then powerbuffing takes out all of it.

This is about the 5th full car I have painted and more fiberglass hoods, bumpers, spoilers and bumpers than I care to count. This is the method I have developed in my situation that has proven to work the best. It's not the only way... just the way I proven to work for me consistently.


Also color sanding is more of something that was done back in the day of laquer paints. Some guys still do it and have great sucess. I find it totally not needed with modern paints. But like I said there is no right way it's whatever way gets you the best results.

Looking good Bobby, and it's about damn time! I started a little more body work on my GT and threw some primer on the front clip. I t hink I need some lessons from you though when I go to paint.

Looking good Bobby, and it's about damn time! I started a little more body work on my GT and threw some primer on the front clip. I t hink I need some lessons from you though when I go to paint.

Well once I finish this up I'll be able to offer my help no problem

Like you said there is more than one way to skin a cat. 320 on a DA is what I usually start with to take paint off. I never prime over anything less than a 600grit finish just always comes out much better in the end for me. 320 I can see the scratches still in the primer.

As far as the physical adehsion of the paint yes you don't want too fine cause the scratches actually give it it's pyhsical adehision. But that is much more of a problem with spraying on top of a clearcoat than it is a base. I always use an expoxy primer usually PPG DP which bases likes to stick to a lot better chemically than etching and other types of primer so the pyhsical adhesion is not as needed with this set-up.

As far as orange peel in the clear I have learned to spray very wet to the point of almost running it(Trick taught to me by a very talented painter). This helps to eliminate almost all orange peel. Yes there will still be some you can't spray clear without some orange peel. But what I end up with is so little that wetsanding wit just 2000grit then powerbuffing takes out all of it.

This is about the 5th full car I have painted and more fiberglass hoods, bumpers, spoilers and bumpers than I care to count. This is the method I have developed in my situation that has proven to work the best. It's not the only way... just the way I proven to work for me consistently.


Also color sanding is more of something that was done back in the day of laquer paints. Some guys still do it and have great sucess. I find it totally not needed with modern paints. But like I said there is no right way it's whatever way gets you the best results.

I totally agree.

And yes, you have to spray almost to the point of were its going to run to keep the orange peel at bay. If you have had no problems with the paint adhesion, I might just go up to 500 on the car that I am doing right now adn see if there is a difference in the finished product. Thanks for the input.

When I was in the states, PPG was my weapon of choice. Here I have to use some stuff from Holland, its not bad, but if I had a choice I would use PPG.

I totally agree.

And yes, you have to spray almost to the point of were its going to run to keep the orange peel at bay. If you have had no problems with the paint adhesion, I might just go up to 500 on the car that I am doing right now adn see if there is a difference in the finished product. Thanks for the input.

When I was in the states, PPG was my weapon of choice. Here I have to use some stuff from Holland, its not bad, but if I had a choice I would use PPG.

I think you guys out in Europe have some really awesome paint though too. I think BASF Glasurit is is easier to get out there, also I think shit like Sikkens and there is another I can't think of the name is suppose to be some of the best paint money can buy but it's rare to get in the States and ridiculious amounts of money as if automotive paint wasn't expensive enough. I dunno if this stuff is really all that better cause I don't see any major flaws in PPG or HOK products other than when I mess up.

Just a few new pics.... I have the front bumper done too but waiting before I show that. These have 2 good coats of clear, no sanding or buffing but you can see how lil orange peel there is...

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/GTStang87/P8180832.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/GTStang87/P8180833.jpg

Thats a big difference since what it used to look like!! Looks good though like the colour that you picked to paint it!
Are you getting anything else done to the car??? or are you pretty much going to keep it all original???

thats interesting, the spoiler is very similar to the one on my 2000

What shade of blue is that? Great job!