vibration

I have 2 2004 silverados ext cabs they both have a vibration between 37-43 mph and 67-72 mph. the dealer has changed rims and tires. does not help.

anybody having this problem?

I have 2 2004 silverados ext cabs they both have a vibration between 37-43 mph and 67-72 mph. the dealer has changed rims and tires. does not help.

anybody having this problem?

Hi bowhuntrr, if you ever find out what the problem is please let me know, I have a similar problem. After I had my wheels balanced it was gone for a week but now it's back again.

Bert

ive got a 2002 ext cab and it had that vibration with the stock wheels and i bought new wheels and it still has is. i dont know what it is, ive check bolts and joints and bushing and i see nothing that is bad. its kinda annoying but ive learned to live with it.

I found this link in the forum about the front drive shaft spinning in 2wd on trucks with autotrac and that the spinning is normal.This would explain the vibration.I am also getting a slight vibration.Maybe I'll change out the U-Joints with greaseable joints.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=321168&highlight=lift

I am printing this thread off for the dealership. I have had three balances, two rotations, 2 alignments. The vibration leaves only for a short time and it comes back.

Mine is between 57-63mph

I saw a sign in one of the local AutoZone's that said about cv joints, how to tell if they're worn. 1, vibration at high speed 2, popping at low speed turning. I wonder if this could be it, my truck has 106K miles on it. I had the front wheels balanced and the vibration was almost gone for about a week. I wonder if a balancing cancels out the vibration of the cv joints until it gets too much ? Just a thought. The cv joints are those the complete "half shafts" that go from the transfer case to the front wheels ? Also, all people who have this problem all drive 4WD ?
http://tinypic.com/4tk4u0

Bert

I've got the same problem.........I recently replaced my inner and outer tie rods with some Dana ones......then I had it aligned and it still does it.....I'm kinda leaning towards the CV's being shot......anybody know how to tell if those are bad??

thanks for the info, i guess i should have stated my trucks are only 2 wheel drive.

I had a customer suggest the flex-plate my be out of balance. any of you have that checked? and how would you do that?

I had a customer suggest the flex-plate my be out of balance. any of you have that checked? and how would you do that?

What is this flex-plate and where is it located ? Mine is a 4WD truck.
It seems when the truck is loaded it almost disappears.

http://tinypic.com/4tk4u0

Bert

He is probably talking about the plate that connects the crank to the stall convertor. It is a plate. If that were the cause you would see the vibration at the same exact rpm's in any gear not just a speed. IS that what you see?

He is probably talking about the plate that connects the crank to the stall convertor. It is a plate. If that were the cause you would see the vibration at the same exact rpm's in any gear not just a speed. IS that what you see?

No, it's only between 'bout 50 and 65 mph, either in 3rd or OD.

http://tinypic.com/4tk4u0

Bert

How about getting the driveshaft balanced, or at least checking the balance?

2000 ext cab does it as well...no fix found yet....Starts at 63 mph (most noticed vibration) and does it up to 90 with a slight decreasing up to 90...

i have the same problem on my 01 2wd silverado mine does it between 50-80

How about getting the driveshaft balanced, or at least checking the balance?

Tuesday my 2005 is going in for the 6th time for this vibration. After three balancings in 2000 miles (That I had to pay for) and a U Joint's being replaced, (this actually made it worse) I was FINALLY able to get someone at the dealership to notice it.

The truck vibrates between 52-70. But at 62mph it is not only vibratiing but resonating through the truck.....

Since day one I have said it is either the tranny or transfer case. (But hey, they are the experts.) I personally still think it is one or the other.

OK guys I may be the bearer of bad news you may not want to hear.

On these trucks there is a a sensation called "frame beaming" that can be felt between 50-70 mph...this is a normal condition and there is a GM Technical bulletin regarding this condition.
In a nutshell your truck was designed to be used as a truck (you know carry, tow and haul stuff). When it is driven unloaded this sensation is prevelent.
The bulletin has a diagnostic procedure to drive the vehicle unloaded with an Electronic Vibration Analizer and note the frequency of the vibration. If the frequency falls within a certain range, the next step is to add approximately 500lbs of weight to the vehicle and reroadtest it again. If the vibration is not present with weight in the vehicle then this is a normal operational characteristic of the vehicle and no repair attempts are to be taken.
The sensation you are feeling is most likey more noticable when you are driving on concrete surfaced roads..the reason for this has to do with suspension geometry, driveline angles, wheelbase and the harmonics of the vehicle tires hitting the expansion joints of the road surface.
With no weight in the vehicle, there is nothing to dampen these vibrations and they will transmit into the passenger compartment.
Now before you start argueing with me about this, I own one of these vehicles and have felt this sensation with my vehicle..most noticable at highway speeds on concrete surfaced roads with the truck unloaded.
Since I have loaded my inbed toolbox with my carpentry tools (about 300-400 lbs of weight) I have not felt this sensation.
My advise to you is this.
If you are feeling this, it may be a normal characteristic of your vehicle so be prepared to hear this from the service department.
But, make sure that the service department does a bulletin search and that they drive your vehicle with the Electronic Vibration Analizer to insure that there are not any addressable vibrations on your vehicle.
The EVA is a essential tool that all GM dealers should have in the service department and there are service and diagnostic procedures in service information in regards to vibration diagnostics.

Tuesday my 2005 is going in for the 6th time for this vibration. After three balancings in 2000 miles (That I had to pay for) and a U Joint's being replaced, (this actually made it worse) I was FINALLY able to get someone at the dealership to notice it.

The truck vibrates between 52-70. But at 62mph it is not only vibratiing but resonating through the truck.....

Since day one I have said it is either the tranny or transfer case. (But hey, they are the experts.) I personally still think it is one or the other.

Update to my situation. I noticed this weekend, if I place the truck in 4WD or 4Auto, the vibration and the roar disappears and is actually a much smoother ride than in 2WD. But no, I do not keep in 4WD.

hmmmmmm...Funny, no other truck I've driven does this...Not even an old 73 dodge ext cab full lenght bed truck that was not even "technically" designed....or not as much as the ones we are here for on this board....

I have noticed that the carrier bearing housing's " RUBBER" bushing allows the 2 axles move a 1/2 inch within the housing....Thats not right and is to much movement...when I get the $'s to replace I will post results....


Also...Those who post this thread, state if your driving a reg cab or ext cab....

Also...Those who post this thread, state if your driving a reg cab or ext cab....

Mine is an extended cab 2005 Silverado Z71.

It will be interesting, at least to me, to see what they do. Chevy did receive my 'Last Chance Letter' concerning the truck before going towards a lemon Law resolution

Update on my Vibratarado....

The truck went in today and they were to keep it until it is fixed.

Well. they used a TSB to say they can not fix it. Dated June 28th 2005.

It is doc # 1679169.

The TSB addresses the noise in the transfer case and it disappearing when I place the truck in 4WD.

It does not address the vibration I now have at any speed since they replaced my U-joints........and at 57-65mph prior to the u-joint replacment....

Quality is job one????

Now to hear from corporate Chevy......ta

Never thought about it to mention before, I do a lot of hauling like dirt, rocks, mulch etc. And indeed the vibration is gone when loaded.
Hmmm,interesting.....

Bert

Update on my Vibratarado....

The truck went in today and they were to keep it until it is fixed.

Well. they used a TSB to say they can not fix it. Dated June 28th 2005.

It is doc # 1679169.

The TSB addresses the noise in the transfer case and it disappearing when I place the truck in 4WD.

It does not address the vibration I now have at any speed since they replaced my U-joints........and at 57-65mph prior to the u-joint replacment....

Quality is job one????

Now to hear from corporate Chevy......ta


The Doc number you gave is not a bulletin, but a directive informing the dealer to establish an engineering case with GM for further investigation and a possible future repair which could come as a TSB.
Not all is lost..

hmmmmmm...Funny, no other truck I've driven does this...Not even an old 73 dodge ext cab full lenght bed truck that was not even "technically" designed....or not as much as the ones we are here for on this board....

I have noticed that the carrier bearing housing's " RUBBER" bushing allows the 2 axles move a 1/2 inch within the housing....Thats not right and is to much movement...when I get the $'s to replace I will post results....


Also...Those who post this thread, state if your driving a reg cab or ext cab....


Rubber mounted carrier bearings for an axle? Havent seen that on a GM vehicle

How about getting the driveshaft balanced, or at least checking the balance?

I was just looking in my newly bought Haynes repair manual and it said to check if the weight(s) are stillon the driveshaft, where are these usualy located ? And how can I tell if it's outof balance ?

Bert

I was just looking in my newly bought Haynes repair manual and it said to check if the weight(s) are stillon the driveshaft, where are these usualy located ? And how can I tell if it's outof balance ?

Bert

I did ask twice to have the driveshaft balanced since they replaced the U-joints. I was told it was not needed.

I did have about 900# of dirt and sand in the turck this weekend. The vibration was not as bad, but it was definitely still there.....

This is definitely a rotating mass problem is it not? Brake rotors get so little respect in vibration troubleshooting.

Ok, I am new to the chevrolet scene. I just put my first 2000 miles on an 01 silverado 2wd ext cab., I stumbled across this thread and I can't help but bring up one additional point of interest. But I am in now way new to mechanics, ALL previous vehicles were 1970's models :smokin:

anywho, I had an annoying vibration problem on my truck, and after much review and money spent, I discovered the problem (in my case). It was the brake rotors. Yep, those shiny circular things that spin tirelessly and transfer your linear motion to circular motion, then to HEAT to slow you down. They get so hot, then you hit a water puddle "JUST ONCE" and they can go out of spec. Sometimes noticeable to the eye.

see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metallurgy

So if its been a while since you packed your bearings with new grease, why not try it. You will need new bearing seals etc. then remove the rotors. Take em to a good machine shop and have them reground or "turned" . Some machine shops can tell you if they are balanced. They drill holes in various sizes and in various lenghts from center to acheive a good balance. I had a set of brand new rotors go so out of shape, I would not have believed it if I had not seen it for myself. SOmetimes having them turned will resolve the problem.
Just something to think about.

It was the brake rotors. Yep, those shiny circular things that spin tirelessly and transfer your linear motion to circular motion, then to HEAT to slow you down.

Thanks for the advice, I thought I posted this before but I do not see it.

The rotors were turned at 9000 miles due to braking vibration. Then at 16,000 they were replaced for a braking vibration.

So the new rotors have been on the truck for less than 1000 miles.

I have a vibration in my truck that begins right on acceleration at about 20 km.hr. I had all 3 u-joints replaced, and my drive shaft balanced. Still there. I've just put all new rotors on and that didn't make a lick of difference either. My next try is the shocks then new rear springs and if that doesn't fix it I'm going to get a set of Timbren Spring helpers.

I've been told 2 different problems with these truck.
a) The intermediate drive shaft on these units cause the drive line to shimmy no matter what you do. If you go to a 1 piece drive shaft the problem goes away.

b) Guys that have put spring assist or Air Bags on there truck that were suffering from this vibration have said that after the Air Bag or Spring Assist is installed the vibration goes away.

Sucks doesn't it....I also haven't had my tires balanced or wheels checked for trueness to see if that has anything to do with it as well...

Ev

Well many good points have been addressed here.
As far as rotors and drums go in vibration diagnosis, there are 2 differnet vibrations you can get..a vibration caused by an out of balance or a vibration caused by excessive lateral run out (apply pulsation).
When describing a rotating vibration, any componant that rotates at the same speed as the tire and wheel assembly can cause a "tire related" vibration.
Brake vibrations are usually called pulsations, they occur when the brakes are applied.
Brake vibrations are caused by excessive lateral runout of the friction surface.
Lateral runout can be caused by improperly torqued lug nuts.
The rotors were turned at 9000 miles due to braking vibration. Then at 16,000 they were replaced for a braking vibration.
The reason for this was improperly torqued lug nuts and a pulsation occurs 3000-6000 after the lugs were tightened.


The intermediate drive shaft on these units cause the drive line to shimmy no matter what you do. If you go to a 1 piece drive shaft the problem goes away.
Some GM light trucks come with a 2 piece driveshaft, the working angles and phasing must be dead on to prevent vibrations.
Some of these concerns have been eliminated by installing a 1 peice driveshaft.


Guys that have put spring assist or Air Bags on there truck that were suffering from this vibration have said that after the Air Bag or Spring Assist is installed the vibration goes away

Some of the vibrations may be related to a launch shutter or spring wrap up.
By changing the suspension geometry, you can change the frequency of a vibration (the vibration is still there, just at a different speed or intensity)

I have a vibration in my truck that begins right on acceleration at about 20 km.hr.

This could be a launch shutter and by changing driveline angles it could be eliminated.
The pinion nose rises as the truck is excellerated this causes the driveline angles to change, by lowering the pinion nose 1/2 degree, you could eliminate the concern.

This could be a launch shutter and by changing driveline angles it could be eliminated.
The pinion nose rises as the truck is excellerated this causes the driveline angles to change, by lowering the pinion nose 1/2 degree, you could eliminate the concern.


Hey Merlin,
Good to see you online again. How would one adjust the pinion nose then? I am assuming that is the one out of the transmission or is it the input on the Rear end?
I just had 2 different transmission shops do the balancing and U-joints.
Great to have you on this board, sir.

Evan

Hey Merlin,
Good to see you online again. How would one adjust the pinion nose then? I am assuming that is the one out of the transmission or is it the input on the Rear end?
I just had 2 different transmission shops do the balancing and U-joints.
Great to have you on this board, sir.

Evan
To change the pinion angle, you install tapered shims between the axle housing and the springs.

Well, I finaly fixed my truck, all vibration is gone. I did the u-joint check thing first like put it in neutral and try to move the drive shaft, all seemed very thight so I figured they were fine. Now yesterday I had to look again because the vibration was getting so bad. Too my surprise I saw the bearings in the front u-joint were falling apart, see picture. Got myself a new u-joint kit and voila done ! Man does this truck drive nice again. My advice, if it looks and feels thight, don't asume it's right.

Bert

http://tinypic.com/dpbtjq.jpg

Old thread, but my vibration I have is in the steering wheel. It's not the wheel though, I can just feel it there. To me it isn't something in the front shafts or case. More noticeable around 53 but I start to feel it around 30 to 60, then it disapears. Now I have a '91 Nissan truck and the vibration I feel in it I'm sure are the U joints. In my '05 Z71, I think it's just in the front end. Sort of a rhythmic vibration. It's not the rotors, I doubt the CV joints. I think it's the shafts. I hear they spin all the time and I think they are the problem. The Chevy dealer said they can't feel it. Well no sheet!! Why would they on a semi ruff road where they tested it. Plus they are Chevy people. I guess ya gotta own a few Japanese cars/trucks to appreciate a good ride. Anyhoo, anymore answers or suggestions?

My Wifes truck, 2000 Silverado 1500, has a simular issue. Changed Tires and had the Brakes servised (turnes and new Pads). Now the Truck has a noticable Bouncy between 40 and 45 and you can see the Riughness of the Ride at high way speeds. Before the new tires and Brake Job Truck rode like a car very smooth.

Now we have been back several times for balancing and what not. on the second trio back a wheel was noticed as bent so I put AR-23's on it all the way around. WIder Rim but same tires (Bridgeston Dueler H/L's). Now that the new RIms are on I took it back had it balanced and that lasted about a week, Now the Bounce/Vibration is back and it gets worse the faster you go. Had the Tires CHecked again and Balnce was gfine and now bent rims. The WIfe now hates to driver her truck but hates my Tacoma worse.

Too many things changed at one time to being the process of elimination. THought maybe the tires but they have been checked on the machine and balance and tires seem to be round with no probnlems but get this bad boy on the road and its like a ball. ANy Suggestions?

Thanks,
Ed

Well I posted in my thread about my vibration. Found out it was a bent drive shaft. Guess that go over looked since it is only 2 years old. They said I must have bottomed out the truck since they saw a mark on the drive shaft and cross member. Yip, I jacked it up and looked at it, it was slightly bent and the good part is........I get to fix it on my coin!! Can't believe I may have done that, but the possibility is there. I tote my 2 sport bikes to tracks and something in my head tells me I hit a deep dip at a very slow speed and the truck dipped hard. But I guess when you have a "Chevy Tough" truck, you wouldn't have that happen.

As for your tires, it can be the tires. I had problems with Wal Mart and Douglas tires on my Camry's. 1st time I used them they were ok. Every set after that made the cars (I have 2) shake the whole time. Wal Mart said my rims were bent. I told them they weren't bent when I got here....... A year later I went back to the Michs and told the guy I wanna see this bent rim again. He spun it on the balancer and it was perfect!!!! I said "what happen to my bent rims???" He didn't say a word!! SO for a year or so I had to ride on a shaking car!! Man I was pissed!! Goodyear Eagles did the same thing.

Bottom line, tires can be screwed up, and many of them are. You can put on another set and your truck will still shake. Try another brand......really!!

[ Before the new tires and Brake Job Truck rode like a car very smooth.

Now we have been back several times for balancing and what not. on the second trio back a wheel was noticed as bent so I put AR-23's on it all the way around. WIder Rim but same tires (Bridgeston Dueler H/L's). Now that the new RIms are on I took it back had it balanced and that lasted about a week, Now the Bounce/Vibration is back and it gets worse the faster you go. Had the Tires CHecked again and Balnce was gfine and now bent rims. The WIfe now hates to driver her truck but hates my Tacoma worse.

Thanks,
Ed[/QUOTE]
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Hi, I went through the bounce and balance 5-6 times before an old timer showed me that the way the wheels are mounted on the balancer will cause this. Also the reported bent rims (which aren't really bent).
The quick and easy mounting uses a cone in the center hole of the wheel.
But the wheels center hole is not accurate enough to get it right.

The wheels are centered on the truck by the lug holes so to get it right, the wheel needs to mounted by the lug holes.They need the lug adapter for the balancer and a few more minutes per wheel, which is why they don't do it unless you insist.
I even had the guy at Costco tell me two of my Jackman rims on the old Land Rover were bent... The centers are 1/4" thick. So I called the tire shop manager and after he watched the difference on the machine, he was convinced.
If the center hole was used there can be a lot of weights on the wheel.
And if they take the wheel off the machine after balancing it, then put it back on, the wheel will not be in balance.
It really fixes the bouncing problem.
Bob B

That was good!!!

Damn.. That might fix my problem.. ONe of my rims have more weights than a scuba diver.. I may take this thread to them and have them balance it the way you suggested.

hey silv122775 if you do this post your results.i have spent alot of money on:
1.rotors and brakes
2.driveshaft supposedly bent new on
3.carrier,and u joints twice
4. tires
this makes sense because everything was fine until new rear tires.bought at dunn tire.brought back several times for balance and each time they were off balance. brought to local shop and they say out of balance week later.each time the vibration moved at differnt speeds but still in the 40-62mph.mine is 2000 2 wheel drive lt 1500 ext. with 300 lbs cap on back. driving me nuts because it was not there when i bought truck thanx

I sure will. It may be a couple of weeks before I get to it.

did anyone try this . and what was the results.
it was the roters. bran spanking new roters.

Great thread---I have 99 Silverado--5.3--2wd--extended cab--89,000 miles. my vibration is intermittent. sometimes ti runs down the road smooth as glass then vibration--coming from driveline--feels like it. Then it go away..might be at 45 mph or 60 mph. Have rotated tires, replaced center bearing, rear ujoint(seemed to be good.) I can go 2-3 days with no problem and then it appears--may last for a second or 2, or until I change speeds. Really no rhyme or reason. I know this is an old post but maybe some more insight can be given. thanks

If you're sure it's driveline; forget this.. but my 2002 with 180K miles had a similar intermittent problem that was the inner tie rods in the front. sometimes it was like brand new; other times from mild to death shudder. Speed/rpm didn't matter.

I've got my own variation on the vibration theme.
Mine's a 2004 Z71 with 90k miles
About a month ago on a long drive, I started noticing a rumble when I stepped on the accelerator, which would go away when I took my foot off and coasted. I can feel it through the whole truck, and sometimes I hear something vibrating behind and underneath me, like a metal plate.

The rumbling has been consistent since then, and only while accelerating. It's there at low speed and at high speed. It's almost like the sort of rumble you get when driving a stick shift and you're going too slow for that gear.

I also have the intermediate steering column vibration, but I've been living with that for a while so I know it's not that.

Other than that the truck is running fine.

I'd appreciate your thoughts.

thx, Jack

I've got my own variation on the vibration theme.
Mine's a 2004 Z71 with 90k miles
About a month ago on a long drive, I started noticing a rumble when I stepped on the accelerator, which would go away when I took my foot off and coasted. I can feel it through the whole truck, and sometimes I hear something vibrating behind and underneath me, like a metal plate.

The rumbling has been consistent since then, and only while accelerating. It's there at low speed and at high speed. It's almost like the sort of rumble you get when driving a stick shift and you're going too slow for that gear.

I also have the intermediate steering column vibration, but I've been living with that for a while so I know it's not that.

Other than that the truck is running fine.

I'd appreciate your thoughts.

thx, Jack

could be the rear diff. when did you last inspect this/change the fluid with the rear cover off ?

with rear wheels off ground check U joints with tranny in neutral/out of gear.

vibs in the steering wheel may mean inner tie rods / check all front end componets.

rotate tires often, side weights fall off easy with these wheels , use the adhesive type.

could be the rear diff. when did you last inspect this/change the fluid with the rear cover off ?

with rear wheels off ground check U joints with tranny in neutral/out of gear.

vibs in the steering wheel may mean inner tie rods / check all front end componets.

rotate tires often, side weights fall off easy with these wheels , use the adhesive type.

Rear diff fluid was replaced around 50K.

I'll check the u joints and wheels.thx

Rear diff fluid was replaced around 50K.

I'll check the u joints and wheels.thx

the rear diff needs fluid replacing. last time was cover removed????

if not this means the magnet is loaded with metal debris and hopefully the diff gears pinion bearing did not get worn from the large amount of metal debris this diff generates..

the cover is not normally removed and this is why this diff gets a bad reputation.

THEY SHOULD NOT HAVE PUT A DRAIN PLUG ON IT !

I'm sure you know many shops suck out the fluid this is just to make more cash , at your expense..

the tag should state 75-90wt synthetic

the rear diff needs fluid replacing. last time was cover removed????

if not this means the magnet is loaded with metal debris and hopefully the diff gears pinion bearing did not get worn from the large amount of metal debris this diff generates..

the cover is not normally removed and this is why this diff gets a bad reputation.

THEY SHOULD NOT HAVE PUT A DRAIN PLUG ON IT !

I'm sure you know many shops suck out the fluid this is just to make more cash , at your expense..

the tag should state 75-90wt synthetic

I'm not sure how it was done, as the shop did it, but I'll have it done right this time.

I changed the rest of ujoint in my driveshaft, but that made the vibration worse--don't know what happen--used a press instead of my usual hammer and kingpin. Jacked it up and ran the truck--saw a bunch of up and down in the shaft. Rotated the shaft to the high point and installed 2 hose clamps and vibration is gone. drove like a new truck. on the down side--I sent the driveshaft off to get balanced and they bent the heck out of the flange on the shaft and lost the bolts from the center bearing. Good thing I have a couple of cars. Just love Murphy's Law. thanks all :)