Lumina Disease
detroitdipset
07-22-2005, 01:14 AM
I'm havin that problem with the whole tranny i think. when i'm hittin the gas at times itdoesn't go as fast as it should. I 've looked on the other threads of people w/ the same problems but the only problem is this is my first car and i don't really know didly about cars compared to most of you guys here so what shouls i do. Is there anyway anyone can advise me of what exactly to look at in the engine or wut exactly to ask the mechanic. please help I'm desperate and hopin i didn't buy a lemon.
Thank you Charles Mitchell
Thank you Charles Mitchell
jeffcoslacker
07-22-2005, 07:19 AM
Well, to get the best result at the mechanic (and hopefully a correct repair that you'll be satisfied with), you need first to be able to adequately describe the problem.
Things we need to know include:
How often?
Predictable or Random?
Occurs cold, hot, only after warm up, in certain weather conditions, etc.
What speed?
Accelerating, cruising, stopping
Any noises or smells associated with the problem?
In your case, does the motor seem to run normally, without any misfire (stumbling, cutting out), and just seems flat, like it's towing something heavy, or does it seem like it isn't accepting the throttle you are giving it?
Just a wild guess I would think if you are referring to when you try to pick up speed when already moving at a decent speed, like above 40 mph, then you may have the issue where the torque convertor lock isn't releasing on demand all the time.
If you are talking about acceleration from a stop, it could be anything, more info might let us point you in the right direction.
But in general, the more info you can provide, the quicker (and cheaper) the diagnosis will be when you take it in. When the problem occurs, note everything you can about conditions, how far you drove before it started happening, is the motor fully warmed up, how fast are you going, what gear, what engine speed, uphill, downhill, flat, hot/cold outside, rainy, dry, etc. All this can be important.
Things we need to know include:
How often?
Predictable or Random?
Occurs cold, hot, only after warm up, in certain weather conditions, etc.
What speed?
Accelerating, cruising, stopping
Any noises or smells associated with the problem?
In your case, does the motor seem to run normally, without any misfire (stumbling, cutting out), and just seems flat, like it's towing something heavy, or does it seem like it isn't accepting the throttle you are giving it?
Just a wild guess I would think if you are referring to when you try to pick up speed when already moving at a decent speed, like above 40 mph, then you may have the issue where the torque convertor lock isn't releasing on demand all the time.
If you are talking about acceleration from a stop, it could be anything, more info might let us point you in the right direction.
But in general, the more info you can provide, the quicker (and cheaper) the diagnosis will be when you take it in. When the problem occurs, note everything you can about conditions, how far you drove before it started happening, is the motor fully warmed up, how fast are you going, what gear, what engine speed, uphill, downhill, flat, hot/cold outside, rainy, dry, etc. All this can be important.
detroitdipset
07-22-2005, 12:20 PM
Well, to get the best result at the mechanic (and hopefully a correct repair that you'll be satisfied with), you need first to be able to adequately describe the problem.
Things we need to know include:
How often?
Predictable or Random?
Occurs cold, hot, only after warm up, in certain weather conditions, etc.
What speed?
Accelerating, cruising, stopping
Any noises or smells associated with the problem?
In your case, does the motor seem to run normally, without any misfire (stumbling, cutting out), and just seems flat, like it's towing something heavy, or does it seem like it isn't accepting the throttle you are giving it?
Just a wild guess I would think if you are referring to when you try to pick up speed when already moving at a decent speed, like above 40 mph, then you may have the issue where the torque convertor lock isn't releasing on demand all the time.
If you are talking about acceleration from a stop, it could be anything, more info might let us point you in the right direction.
But in general, the more info you can provide, the quicker (and cheaper) the diagnosis will be when you take it in. When the problem occurs, note everything you can about conditions, how far you drove before it started happening, is the motor fully warmed up, how fast are you going, what gear, what engine speed, uphill, downhill, flat, hot/cold outside, rainy, dry, etc. All this can be important.
1) I've ahd the car since yesterday and everytime I drive it it doesit.
2) yeah I've only drove the car for 2days but I can already tell whens it wants to do it.
3) I guess it occues when warm/hot beacus it does it usually 5- min after i start driving it.
4) So far it has happened everyday that I've had it and it's been in the upper 90's
5) NOt usually at a particular speed. usually I'll start accelerating but when i ease on the brake it starts when i wanna hit the gas again.
then i have to out pedal almost to the floor for about 30 seconds until it jumps into proper speed.
7) No noises other than the noise of the engine reving with no accleration.
Is there anything you can assume from this?
Thanx Charles mitchell
p.s. the car was won from an auction so there was no info given on it besides the car was had air and it runs.
Things we need to know include:
How often?
Predictable or Random?
Occurs cold, hot, only after warm up, in certain weather conditions, etc.
What speed?
Accelerating, cruising, stopping
Any noises or smells associated with the problem?
In your case, does the motor seem to run normally, without any misfire (stumbling, cutting out), and just seems flat, like it's towing something heavy, or does it seem like it isn't accepting the throttle you are giving it?
Just a wild guess I would think if you are referring to when you try to pick up speed when already moving at a decent speed, like above 40 mph, then you may have the issue where the torque convertor lock isn't releasing on demand all the time.
If you are talking about acceleration from a stop, it could be anything, more info might let us point you in the right direction.
But in general, the more info you can provide, the quicker (and cheaper) the diagnosis will be when you take it in. When the problem occurs, note everything you can about conditions, how far you drove before it started happening, is the motor fully warmed up, how fast are you going, what gear, what engine speed, uphill, downhill, flat, hot/cold outside, rainy, dry, etc. All this can be important.
1) I've ahd the car since yesterday and everytime I drive it it doesit.
2) yeah I've only drove the car for 2days but I can already tell whens it wants to do it.
3) I guess it occues when warm/hot beacus it does it usually 5- min after i start driving it.
4) So far it has happened everyday that I've had it and it's been in the upper 90's
5) NOt usually at a particular speed. usually I'll start accelerating but when i ease on the brake it starts when i wanna hit the gas again.
then i have to out pedal almost to the floor for about 30 seconds until it jumps into proper speed.
7) No noises other than the noise of the engine reving with no accleration.
Is there anything you can assume from this?
Thanx Charles mitchell
p.s. the car was won from an auction so there was no info given on it besides the car was had air and it runs.
57chevyragtop
07-22-2005, 03:24 PM
Well, to get the best result at the mechanic (and hopefully a correct repair that you'll be satisfied with), you need first to be able to adequately describe the problem.
Things we need to know include:
How often?
Predictable or Random?
Occurs cold, hot, only after warm up, in certain weather conditions, etc.
What speed?
Accelerating, cruising, stopping
Any noises or smells associated with the problem?
In your case, does the motor seem to run normally, without any misfire (stumbling, cutting out), and just seems flat, like it's towing something heavy, or does it seem like it isn't accepting the throttle you are giving it?
Just a wild guess I would think if you are referring to when you try to pick up speed when already moving at a decent speed, like above 40 mph, then you may have the issue where the torque convertor lock isn't releasing on demand all the time.
If you are talking about acceleration from a stop, it could be anything, more info might let us point you in the right direction.
But in general, the more info you can provide, the quicker (and cheaper) the diagnosis will be when you take it in. When the problem occurs, note everything you can about conditions, how far you drove before it started happening, is the motor fully warmed up, how fast are you going, what gear, what engine speed, uphill, downhill, flat, hot/cold outside, rainy, dry, etc. All this can be important.
Jeffcoslacker is right you need to be able to describe it a little better still. first what year, which engine ? 3.1, 3.8, 3.4? TCC (torque Converter Control solenoid) will only give a problem when car is warmed up at least 20 minutes running, and then only when you slow from 45 and above, the engine will buck and stutter and may stall when coming to a 20mph and below stop. First thing I would look at is the tranny fluid level, after engine warmed thoroughly, may be low, add dextron III (very little at a time so as not to overfill) if not low, check color of fluid as well, if red its ok, if brown or very dk red, Tranny fluid & filter may need changed, Next, check your air filter and box to be sure it's clean, clean clean, next step is the thottle body, take air inlet from air cleaner off, spray w/WD40 and clean out horn and butterfly not letting any dirt go in towards engine, do not use carb cleaner it destroys the coating, clean both sides of the butterfly using paper towels and fingers, no screwdrivers that can scratch the surface. popsicle stick or like is ok. Now if you still have the problem you may need to get the cat converter checked, that may be plugged up (you can't do this yourself) The only other thing I can think of is the fuel filter may need changed, this is the most neglected part on cars today, very difficult to change if you don't know how or have the tools, even if you do it can be a bear.
Things we need to know include:
How often?
Predictable or Random?
Occurs cold, hot, only after warm up, in certain weather conditions, etc.
What speed?
Accelerating, cruising, stopping
Any noises or smells associated with the problem?
In your case, does the motor seem to run normally, without any misfire (stumbling, cutting out), and just seems flat, like it's towing something heavy, or does it seem like it isn't accepting the throttle you are giving it?
Just a wild guess I would think if you are referring to when you try to pick up speed when already moving at a decent speed, like above 40 mph, then you may have the issue where the torque convertor lock isn't releasing on demand all the time.
If you are talking about acceleration from a stop, it could be anything, more info might let us point you in the right direction.
But in general, the more info you can provide, the quicker (and cheaper) the diagnosis will be when you take it in. When the problem occurs, note everything you can about conditions, how far you drove before it started happening, is the motor fully warmed up, how fast are you going, what gear, what engine speed, uphill, downhill, flat, hot/cold outside, rainy, dry, etc. All this can be important.
Jeffcoslacker is right you need to be able to describe it a little better still. first what year, which engine ? 3.1, 3.8, 3.4? TCC (torque Converter Control solenoid) will only give a problem when car is warmed up at least 20 minutes running, and then only when you slow from 45 and above, the engine will buck and stutter and may stall when coming to a 20mph and below stop. First thing I would look at is the tranny fluid level, after engine warmed thoroughly, may be low, add dextron III (very little at a time so as not to overfill) if not low, check color of fluid as well, if red its ok, if brown or very dk red, Tranny fluid & filter may need changed, Next, check your air filter and box to be sure it's clean, clean clean, next step is the thottle body, take air inlet from air cleaner off, spray w/WD40 and clean out horn and butterfly not letting any dirt go in towards engine, do not use carb cleaner it destroys the coating, clean both sides of the butterfly using paper towels and fingers, no screwdrivers that can scratch the surface. popsicle stick or like is ok. Now if you still have the problem you may need to get the cat converter checked, that may be plugged up (you can't do this yourself) The only other thing I can think of is the fuel filter may need changed, this is the most neglected part on cars today, very difficult to change if you don't know how or have the tools, even if you do it can be a bear.
tblake
07-22-2005, 04:41 PM
how do you change the fuel filter on the 3.1 lumina? The flex line snaps off, right? Is there a certain tool needed to take that off? Then it just unbolts from the metel line, correct? I've got a 2001 with 55,000 miles on it, and was wondering when I should change the fuel filter?
jeffcoslacker
07-22-2005, 05:49 PM
I think first thing I'd do is drive it around, get it to do that, and as soon as it starts, put it in nuetral and see if it rolls to a stop unusually fast, indicating a brake hanging up.
If that's the case, walk around the car and feel the temp of each wheel. The one with the stuck brake will be much hotter than it's counterpart on the same axle. The front will generally be hotter than the rears.
If you can, let it roll to a stop without using the brakes at all, that will make the temp difference really stand out, if one is dragging, it'll be the only one really hot.
If that's not the case, does it seem to downshift when you stand on it? Or is it just laboring along in top gear, making no power? If you downshift it manually does it accelerate ok?
If that's the case, walk around the car and feel the temp of each wheel. The one with the stuck brake will be much hotter than it's counterpart on the same axle. The front will generally be hotter than the rears.
If you can, let it roll to a stop without using the brakes at all, that will make the temp difference really stand out, if one is dragging, it'll be the only one really hot.
If that's not the case, does it seem to downshift when you stand on it? Or is it just laboring along in top gear, making no power? If you downshift it manually does it accelerate ok?
jeffcoslacker
07-22-2005, 05:53 PM
Jeffcoslacker is right you need to be able to describe it a little better still. first what year, which engine ? 3.1, 3.8, 3.4? TCC (torque Converter Control solenoid) will only give a problem when car is warmed up at least 20 minutes running, and then only when you slow from 45 and above, the engine will buck and stutter and may stall when coming to a 20mph and below stop. First thing I would look at is the tranny fluid level, after engine warmed thoroughly, may be low, add dextron III (very little at a time so as not to overfill) if not low, check color of fluid as well, if red its ok, if brown or very dk red, Tranny fluid & filter may need changed, Next, check your air filter and box to be sure it's clean, clean clean, next step is the thottle body, take air inlet from air cleaner off, spray w/WD40 and clean out horn and butterfly not letting any dirt go in towards engine, do not use carb cleaner it destroys the coating, clean both sides of the butterfly using paper towels and fingers, no screwdrivers that can scratch the surface. popsicle stick or like is ok. Now if you still have the problem you may need to get the cat converter checked, that may be plugged up (you can't do this yourself) The only other thing I can think of is the fuel filter may need changed, this is the most neglected part on cars today, very difficult to change if you don't know how or have the tools, even if you do it can be a bear.
Good stuff here, and I agree with all of it eXCEPT, it is possible to diagnose a blocked cat yourself with a cheap vacuum gauge, you just watch your reading with the throttle blocked at a steady speed (about 2500 is good). A blocked exhaust will cause the reading to slowly drop over time as the exhaust begins to back up and affect intake charging efficiency.
Good stuff here, and I agree with all of it eXCEPT, it is possible to diagnose a blocked cat yourself with a cheap vacuum gauge, you just watch your reading with the throttle blocked at a steady speed (about 2500 is good). A blocked exhaust will cause the reading to slowly drop over time as the exhaust begins to back up and affect intake charging efficiency.
jeffcoslacker
07-22-2005, 05:57 PM
What year is very critical to know here, because the systems changed a lot from generation to generation on the Luminas.
Blake, I don't use any tool for mine, I seem to be able to release the clips with my fingers just fine. The clip is inside the line, and you can see the ends of it sticking out beyond the end of the line, towards the filter. I just squeeze them together while pulling lightly on the line, and it'll pop off. Be prepared to get sprayed for a second.
Blake, I don't use any tool for mine, I seem to be able to release the clips with my fingers just fine. The clip is inside the line, and you can see the ends of it sticking out beyond the end of the line, towards the filter. I just squeeze them together while pulling lightly on the line, and it'll pop off. Be prepared to get sprayed for a second.
jeffcoslacker
07-22-2005, 06:06 PM
I'll spare you the sermon I usually give about auction cars. It is long-winded, and just gets my blood boiling.
I've worked for lots and dealers who bought and sold through auctions, and you just simply CAN'T EVEN IMAGINE the things I've seen on auction cars.
Just suffice it to say, if it was what it appeared to be, it wouldn't be at the auction. It would be being sold off someone's lot. If you are not a very competant mechanic, you have little hope of spotting the things that can be wrong with these cars. We've run cars out to the auction that were hastily slapped together from components of three different cars, just good enough to start and drive to the auction.
I've seen cars that were in horrific accidents, and were put back together so poorly, they'd wad up like a kleenex if they ever got in another accident. A lot of them end up there because they couldn't legally be sold for use on the road in their state of origin.
A lot of others are there because of a hidden defect that would cost more than the car is worth to repair.
OK, that's enough. You get the idea. Stay away from auctions.
I've worked for lots and dealers who bought and sold through auctions, and you just simply CAN'T EVEN IMAGINE the things I've seen on auction cars.
Just suffice it to say, if it was what it appeared to be, it wouldn't be at the auction. It would be being sold off someone's lot. If you are not a very competant mechanic, you have little hope of spotting the things that can be wrong with these cars. We've run cars out to the auction that were hastily slapped together from components of three different cars, just good enough to start and drive to the auction.
I've seen cars that were in horrific accidents, and were put back together so poorly, they'd wad up like a kleenex if they ever got in another accident. A lot of them end up there because they couldn't legally be sold for use on the road in their state of origin.
A lot of others are there because of a hidden defect that would cost more than the car is worth to repair.
OK, that's enough. You get the idea. Stay away from auctions.
57chevyragtop
07-22-2005, 07:25 PM
What year is very critical to know here, because the systems changed a lot from generation to generation on the Luminas.
Blake, I don't use any tool for mine, I seem to be able to release the clips with my fingers just fine. The clip is inside the line, and you can see the ends of it sticking out beyond the end of the line, towards the filter. I just squeeze them together while pulling lightly on the line, and it'll pop off. Be prepared to get sprayed for a second.
Oop's I really didn't know you could check cat that way thanks good to know, by the time I figure it out they'll change it so you'll need 5 million dollar tool good for one model year. And the fuel inline filter hook ups changed after 93 or 4...to some kind of clip I have not had the pleasure to fool with. my 92 was 3/4 one side 15/16 the other I think I remember that right and so tight I thought I was going to break the line using 2 15" helper pipes, 35,000 mi is the interval I use, but I change plugs every 15,000, oil & filter every 3000, trans filter and 4 qt tran fluid every 50,000, air filter switch to K&N cean & re-oil at oil change and cleaning the thottle body at that time as well. 12 years,146,000 mi, no oil usage, one water pump, 2 starters, one starter switch, 3 alternators, 2 batteries (Wal-mart last 2) one heater core
Blake, I don't use any tool for mine, I seem to be able to release the clips with my fingers just fine. The clip is inside the line, and you can see the ends of it sticking out beyond the end of the line, towards the filter. I just squeeze them together while pulling lightly on the line, and it'll pop off. Be prepared to get sprayed for a second.
Oop's I really didn't know you could check cat that way thanks good to know, by the time I figure it out they'll change it so you'll need 5 million dollar tool good for one model year. And the fuel inline filter hook ups changed after 93 or 4...to some kind of clip I have not had the pleasure to fool with. my 92 was 3/4 one side 15/16 the other I think I remember that right and so tight I thought I was going to break the line using 2 15" helper pipes, 35,000 mi is the interval I use, but I change plugs every 15,000, oil & filter every 3000, trans filter and 4 qt tran fluid every 50,000, air filter switch to K&N cean & re-oil at oil change and cleaning the thottle body at that time as well. 12 years,146,000 mi, no oil usage, one water pump, 2 starters, one starter switch, 3 alternators, 2 batteries (Wal-mart last 2) one heater core
detroitdipset
07-23-2005, 02:11 AM
I'll spare you the sermon I usually give about auction cars. It is long-winded, and just gets my blood boiling.
I've worked for lots and dealers who bought and sold through auctions, and you just simply CAN'T EVEN IMAGINE the things I've seen on auction cars.
Just suffice it to say, if it was what it appeared to be, it wouldn't be at the auction. It would be being sold off someone's lot. If you are not a very competant mechanic, you have little hope of spotting the things that can be wrong with these cars. We've run cars out to the auction that were hastily slapped together from components of three different cars, just good enough to start and drive to the auction.
I've seen cars that were in horrific accidents, and were put back together so poorly, they'd wad up like a kleenex if they ever got in another accident. A lot of them end up there because they couldn't legally be sold for use on the road in their state of origin.
A lot of others are there because of a hidden defect that would cost more than the car is worth to repair.
OK, that's enough. You get the idea. Stay away from auctions.
Yeah I had a mechanic w/ me. I;m hoping i didn't get meonw of them lemons it would be just my luck to save every cent of my hard earned summer money on a peice of crap. especially becuase i can't work when college starts on aug. until next summer. This was the best car there after all of his sniff and other weird lookin tests. oh yeah the car is a 96' lumina w/ the 3.1 engine.
Another quick question I have too. My speedometer jumps all around. it's never consistent and netither is the gas gauge (if they have anything to do with each other) but any suggestions.
Thanx for all the info jeff you really are saving me $$$, you really know your stuff you too 57 rag top.
I've worked for lots and dealers who bought and sold through auctions, and you just simply CAN'T EVEN IMAGINE the things I've seen on auction cars.
Just suffice it to say, if it was what it appeared to be, it wouldn't be at the auction. It would be being sold off someone's lot. If you are not a very competant mechanic, you have little hope of spotting the things that can be wrong with these cars. We've run cars out to the auction that were hastily slapped together from components of three different cars, just good enough to start and drive to the auction.
I've seen cars that were in horrific accidents, and were put back together so poorly, they'd wad up like a kleenex if they ever got in another accident. A lot of them end up there because they couldn't legally be sold for use on the road in their state of origin.
A lot of others are there because of a hidden defect that would cost more than the car is worth to repair.
OK, that's enough. You get the idea. Stay away from auctions.
Yeah I had a mechanic w/ me. I;m hoping i didn't get meonw of them lemons it would be just my luck to save every cent of my hard earned summer money on a peice of crap. especially becuase i can't work when college starts on aug. until next summer. This was the best car there after all of his sniff and other weird lookin tests. oh yeah the car is a 96' lumina w/ the 3.1 engine.
Another quick question I have too. My speedometer jumps all around. it's never consistent and netither is the gas gauge (if they have anything to do with each other) but any suggestions.
Thanx for all the info jeff you really are saving me $$$, you really know your stuff you too 57 rag top.
jeffcoslacker
07-23-2005, 07:31 AM
The fuel gauges are somewhat of a GM trait, their readings never did really have any basis in reality. After '97, I think it was, they started using a new "module" that is supposed to average out the wildly varying readings from the float sensor and provide a more consistant reading at the gauge, at least that's what I've been told. My gauge in my '97 has a pretty rock-solid reading, although it still has nothing to do with the actual amount of fuel in the tank...from what I gather from nearly running it out of gas, it holds around 15 gallons. But when it says 1/2 full, I can put 10 gallons in it. :screwy: I can also drive around for three days on the red zone just above "E". :sly:
Your speedo issue makes me wonder about a couple of things. There is a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) on the tranny that tells the ECM and speedo how fast you are going. The ECM needs to know this so it can compare that to throttle opening and intake vacuum readings, so it can decide what actions (fatter mixture, downshift, igniton timing change, command TCC unlock, etc) are called for under the circumstances. If it's getting an incorrect reading, it won't act right.
Outside of that, it's possible that the dash issues are not related at all to the problem, and are just the result of bad connections or a poor ground somewhere. If that's the case, you'd have to just start systematically eliminating the obvious causes.
At any rate, I think you should start by making sure your tranny, coolant, and any other fluids are at correct levels. Then make sure your battery cables are tight. Then start working your way through the engine compartment, looking for any evidence of wiring that is not securely connected or might be pinched or lying on something hot. Same for vacuum lines. In some vehicles that have had a major body or mechanical repair, you'll find a pattern of things that weren't run correctly or were forgotten to be reconnected. Looking for evidence of major work under the hood may help you find an area of things to check
I look for telltale signs like fresh gasket sealer along gasketed seams, castings that look cleaner than others around them, greasy fingerprints on hoses or other surfaces, wires/lines that look out of place, not neat like factory ran, etc....it's worth a look. Sometimes it gives you a good idea what was done recently, and where to start searching, and what kind of issues the car was having that lead the previous owner to want to bail on the car.
Your speedo issue makes me wonder about a couple of things. There is a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) on the tranny that tells the ECM and speedo how fast you are going. The ECM needs to know this so it can compare that to throttle opening and intake vacuum readings, so it can decide what actions (fatter mixture, downshift, igniton timing change, command TCC unlock, etc) are called for under the circumstances. If it's getting an incorrect reading, it won't act right.
Outside of that, it's possible that the dash issues are not related at all to the problem, and are just the result of bad connections or a poor ground somewhere. If that's the case, you'd have to just start systematically eliminating the obvious causes.
At any rate, I think you should start by making sure your tranny, coolant, and any other fluids are at correct levels. Then make sure your battery cables are tight. Then start working your way through the engine compartment, looking for any evidence of wiring that is not securely connected or might be pinched or lying on something hot. Same for vacuum lines. In some vehicles that have had a major body or mechanical repair, you'll find a pattern of things that weren't run correctly or were forgotten to be reconnected. Looking for evidence of major work under the hood may help you find an area of things to check
I look for telltale signs like fresh gasket sealer along gasketed seams, castings that look cleaner than others around them, greasy fingerprints on hoses or other surfaces, wires/lines that look out of place, not neat like factory ran, etc....it's worth a look. Sometimes it gives you a good idea what was done recently, and where to start searching, and what kind of issues the car was having that lead the previous owner to want to bail on the car.
detroitdipset
07-26-2005, 12:45 AM
As you can probably already tell Im new at this whole car repair stuff. But It really intrigues me now, not only because and not only because I have a car, But any way I had a coolant light on in my 96' lumina. I checled the coolant resevoir and it's full with what looks to be a mixture of old anti freeze and water. I did some research and learned I might need a coolant flush.I didn't know whether or not I should drive the car w/o coolant, i would hate to get stranded and not know what to do. I noticed when going to the mechanic i noticed as they noticed my stupidness of cars there prices and number of jobs neccesary went up so i was wondering could this be done by me and if so what do i need, where do i do it and what do i look for? I also was wondering how to change oil. I know, I know everyman should know this but gotta learn some way and i rather learn than pay beacuse an college students money really has to stretch. Thanx A lot guys and sorry fpr the very novice questions,
Charles Mitchell
Charles Mitchell
jeffcoslacker
07-26-2005, 01:37 PM
jeffcoslacker
07-26-2005, 01:44 PM
Ooops...that one's no good. This is a good site...
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityourself/l/bl_10m_diy.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityourself/l/bl_10m_diy.htm
jdemestihas
07-26-2005, 01:51 PM
I had a 95 Lumina with the 3.1
Tranny crapped out at 88k mi.
Surged and also at times would require flooring the
throttle to get it to kick down a gear or else it would very very slowly accelerate. Started intermitten and eventually did it constantly.
Dealer stated electronic controls inside tranny bad. bought a service replacement. 1 Month later car was driving fine parked and turned it off. Went to start it later and all kinds of metallic noises when cranking. Wouldnt start. Pulled heads and 2 pistons were shot. Holes in them. a few valves were toast.
Bought an engine from a wrecked car with 20k miles. Drove for 5k more and traded it in.
We renamed it the Lemona.
GM has yet to figure out how to make a fwd car that is reliable and will go 200k miles like a Japanese car.
Tranny crapped out at 88k mi.
Surged and also at times would require flooring the
throttle to get it to kick down a gear or else it would very very slowly accelerate. Started intermitten and eventually did it constantly.
Dealer stated electronic controls inside tranny bad. bought a service replacement. 1 Month later car was driving fine parked and turned it off. Went to start it later and all kinds of metallic noises when cranking. Wouldnt start. Pulled heads and 2 pistons were shot. Holes in them. a few valves were toast.
Bought an engine from a wrecked car with 20k miles. Drove for 5k more and traded it in.
We renamed it the Lemona.
GM has yet to figure out how to make a fwd car that is reliable and will go 200k miles like a Japanese car.
richtazz
07-26-2005, 02:29 PM
my 91 grand prix had 225k on it and still had 40psi oil pressure at idle. I only sold it because I bought a 99 Grand Prix and didn't need it anymore. The new owner is tickled. I bet your car had either an intake leak, common on Vin-m 3100's, or a vacuum leak causing it to run lean.
cadgear
07-26-2005, 02:38 PM
GM has yet to figure out how to make a fwd car that is reliable and will go 200k miles like a Japanese car.
Trouble is, GM is using Japanese cars and relabeling as their own, so don't go off on the Japanese tanget just yet.
As far as GM having no reliability, well, both my 91 olds and 90 grand prix hit well in excess of 180k, with zero problems mechanically speaking. My brother's 2003 Impala patrol car is on its way to 130k, and those are HARD miles. I imagine if the second owner cares for it, he/she will see the ODO roll to 200k (I know if I got it I would ensure it did). Its all in how well you take care of your car. Treat it good and it'll last, skimp on maintaining and you'll find yourself angry at the car when it gives up the ghost early on.
Trouble is, GM is using Japanese cars and relabeling as their own, so don't go off on the Japanese tanget just yet.
As far as GM having no reliability, well, both my 91 olds and 90 grand prix hit well in excess of 180k, with zero problems mechanically speaking. My brother's 2003 Impala patrol car is on its way to 130k, and those are HARD miles. I imagine if the second owner cares for it, he/she will see the ODO roll to 200k (I know if I got it I would ensure it did). Its all in how well you take care of your car. Treat it good and it'll last, skimp on maintaining and you'll find yourself angry at the car when it gives up the ghost early on.
cadgear
07-26-2005, 02:42 PM
I also was wondering how to change oil. I know, I know everyman should know this but gotta learn some way and i rather learn than pay beacuse an college students money really has to stretch. Thanx A lot guys and sorry fpr the very novice questions,
Charles Mitchell
What got me started into fixing cars was a Haynes manual, $15 from most auto parts stores. Wanting to save cash on simple maintainence, I read it cover-to-cover a million times before I started taking matters into my own hands. Its pretty easy to understand, with photos and diagrams and whatnot. Worth the money for anyone who has a car. That or a Chilton's (very similar).
Charles Mitchell
What got me started into fixing cars was a Haynes manual, $15 from most auto parts stores. Wanting to save cash on simple maintainence, I read it cover-to-cover a million times before I started taking matters into my own hands. Its pretty easy to understand, with photos and diagrams and whatnot. Worth the money for anyone who has a car. That or a Chilton's (very similar).
jdemestihas
07-26-2005, 02:43 PM
I was second owner!
Technically the Lumina was Canadian
Trouble is, GM is using Japanese cars and relabeling as their own, so don't go off on the Japanese tanget just yet.
As far as GM having no reliability, well, both my 91 olds and 90 grand prix hit well in excess of 180k, with zero problems mechanically speaking. My brother's 2003 Impala patrol car is on its way to 130k, and those are HARD miles. I imagine if the second owner cares for it, he/she will see the ODO roll to 200k (I know if I got it I would ensure it did). Its all in how well you take care of your car. Treat it good and it'll last, skimp on maintaining and you'll find yourself angry at the car when it gives up the ghost early on.
Technically the Lumina was Canadian
Trouble is, GM is using Japanese cars and relabeling as their own, so don't go off on the Japanese tanget just yet.
As far as GM having no reliability, well, both my 91 olds and 90 grand prix hit well in excess of 180k, with zero problems mechanically speaking. My brother's 2003 Impala patrol car is on its way to 130k, and those are HARD miles. I imagine if the second owner cares for it, he/she will see the ODO roll to 200k (I know if I got it I would ensure it did). Its all in how well you take care of your car. Treat it good and it'll last, skimp on maintaining and you'll find yourself angry at the car when it gives up the ghost early on.
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