1996 Taurus: Low speed stall / Turn signal failure

These topics may have been previously covered. If so please refer me to the thread if easier than replying here.

Both of the above per net searches seem to be common problems with the above year / model.

Stalling: Vehicle is a 6 cylinder. Stalls during deceleration and while stopped. Seems to do this hot or cold. It is an abrupt stop not like a loss of fuel so I am assuming ignition or electrical problem. Based on other inquiries I have seen for this exact problem I am assuming this is a common issue.

Turn signals: Signals and flashers quit working. Somewhat random at first now totally gone. Again seems to be another common problem however not many people have had luck correcting by just changing the flashers. Any suggestions on where else to look / how to diagnose is appriciated.

Thanks in advance for anyones time on these.

Id get your transmission checked out

Id get your transmission checked out

Transmission is brand new. So is the torque converter.

could be the idle speed. not sure if it can be changed on the cars computer

could be the idle speed. not sure if it can be changed on the cars computer

I never idles low and normal idle is smooth. Doesn't sputter just abruptly dies. Research so far is indicating the fuel pump. I have been told this is a common result of an fuel pump issue on these cars where they intermittently fail causing a loss of pressure stalling the car. Have been told one (cheap) fix is to keep a full(er) tank to keep the pump temp down. Trying that right now.

Thanks for the input though.

most likely it is your cam shaft positioning sensor. i just had my transmission rebuilt. shifts good now, but stalls out in drive while stopping. Dyer Automotive said i need a new sensor, and possibly a new fuel filter as well. found that they cost about $180, but i need a special tool to position sensor correctly(about 10 degrees BDC?TDC?) currently looking for tool on ebay. Shifting into neutral and using ac less seems to help. havent tried keeping a full tank yet.

Check the crankkshaft positioning sensor for the dying problem. Car will run with a bad cam sensor.

There is no flasher for your car. The lighting is controlled by the Lighting Control Module. Look at the multi-function(turn signal)switch for the lighting concern.

most likely it is your cam shaft positioning sensor. i just had my transmission rebuilt. shifts good now, but stalls out in drive while stopping. Dyer Automotive said i need a new sensor, and possibly a new fuel filter as well. found that they cost about $180, but i need a special tool to position sensor correctly(about 10 degrees BDC?TDC?) currently looking for tool on ebay. Shifting into neutral and using ac less seems to help. havent tried keeping a full tank yet.

Update: have changed the cam position sensor and this did not correct the problem. The sensor was $35 and required no special tools to install (I believe that would be the crank position sensor). A/C off does seem to help.


Check the crankkshaft positioning sensor for the dying problem. Car will run with a bad cam sensor.

There is no flasher for your car. The lighting is controlled by the Lighting Control Module. Look at the multi-function(turn signal)switch for the lighting concern.

Crank position is next on the list ... you are the first to suggest that one but it makes the most sense based on symptoms. I have also narrowed down all variables in regards to the lack of flashers to the referanced LCM ... looking for any tips on replacement as well as a cheap source to locate a replacement part.

Thanks ...

The LCM is easily changed. Just unplug, pop out and install new one.

The LCM is easily changed. Just unplug, pop out and install new one.

Do you have to remove the steering wheel? does this require a puller or does the cover pop off followed by a bolt on assembly?

Also if the crank position sensor were bad would it throw a code / be indicated by the check engine light?

Just trying to do everything I can before having to take it to a shop.

Are you talking about the turnsignal switch? This is mounted on the steering column. Remove the trim, remove 2 bolts holding switch, remove 2 wiring connectors. This is the multi-function switch. The LCM is under the dash and is a small solid state controller. The crank sensor may not output a code. Look closely at the connector. if it is a no spark condition, wiggle the connector and see if it starts.

Stalling: Vehicle is a 6 cylinder. Stalls during deceleration and while stopped. Seems to do this hot or cold. It is an abrupt stop not like a loss of fuel so I am assuming ignition or electrical problem. Based on other inquiries I have seen for this exact problem I am assuming this is a common issue.

Turn signals: Signals and flashers quit working. Somewhat random at first now totally gone. Again seems to be another common problem however not many people have had luck correcting by just changing the flashers. Any suggestions on where else to look / how to diagnose is appriciated.

I'm having the same 2 problems with my taurus. I'm more concerned with the turn signals not working at the moment. It looks like it could be the LCM or the signal switch on the column? I don't know where to start...

Thanks!

Note: edited

update conclusion:

Turn signal / flasher problem was corrected by replacing the multi-function switch in the steering column. Straight forward install you just have to know to stick a small punch / screwdriver in the hole under the column to release the key cylinder. They rest screws apart.

Also FYI the turn signal flasher located under the dash (even though wasn't my problem) is often incorrectly referanced by auto parts stores. Pull yours out in advance if you are going to replace and visually match it (the one parts stores recommend dont accomidate the mounting bracket)

Stalling issue became less frequent with multi function switch. Seems to have completely gone away with new CCRM. Has only stumbled one time (did not die) right when fan shut off.

The CCRM also fixed the hard 1st to 2nd shift - now it shifts normally (?)

The hard start issue was not corrected by the CCRM (no pressure with key to ignition - That is apparently (contrary to manuals) an issue with the check valve on the pump.

I hope this helps others with like problems out. Thanks to everyone for the input.

Edit: Stalling started up again. Shortly after the air conditioning quit working ... consequently the car quit stalling. I haven't fixed the A/C yet to further diagnose but assume its an electrical issue (related relay?).

The hard start is because fuel pressure does not build until the car is cranking. The pump turns on for about 2 seconds when the ignition goes on but apparently it is either weak or that is no long enough (or the check valve is shot so its not enough to refill the line). If I turn the ignition on for 2 sec then off 2-3x it will start right up. If I cared about the car I would just drop the tank and change the pump.