6 bolt time bitches.....

Well, engine has rodknock so swapping in a 6 bolt. Still working out the details on the internals, but probably mostly stock, maybe some forged pistons....will be putting in some 720s and possibly a wideband with this tho...got two 6 bolt blocks, one spun a bearing, other snapped a timing belt, gonna wait to see if either of the cores or any parts are usable, but got them both for $50, so no big loss....will keep everyone posted, should be done in 1.5-2 weeks....Any comments/ suggestions are always welcome.

I would suggest DSMlink. This is the perfect time to do it, and with it, your car with a 1g CAS will not find it's way into limp mode. I am sure your aware of this, but if you do purchase DSMlink, right to 950's you should go.

The 6 bolt I am using had snapped a t belt too. I would rather use that one then the other for just a quick replacement. However the other should be just fine too.

For a nice setup, 2g pistons on 1g rods do nicely.

ARP's for the head and rods, I wouldn't worry really about the mains.

Good luck!

1 step ahead of ya buddy....already have dsmlink :biggrin:

So the damage to the block that snapped the t-belt should be less than the one that spun a bearing??

I thought you had DSMlink already, but wasn't sure, so I threw it in there for good measure and if someone else decides to read this for some guidence. Anywho, I would assume that the one that snapped the t belt is better to use, although since you would be machining it anyway, I don't see the difference, although I wouldn't want to use a crank that had a spun bearing on it.

Some people just fix the head of motors that snap belts and drive it on. That's POS racing style.

Well took the motors across the bay through brutal rush (ummm.....yea rush) hour traffic to paul at newlogics. He looked at them and said they were actually both in good condition, he checked the one that spun a bearing, and apparantly it was so mild that it caused next to no damage to the rods or crank, so I will be reusing the 90 big rods and the crank will be taken to the local machine shop to have it checked out and polished. Went with some topline 8.0:1 pistons, arp studs and balance shafts removed. Head will be getting new valves. Thats it for now! Will keep posted...

Well then, your motor will be exactly like mine. I have the same setup, 8.0 toplines, ( stock replacements) on big rods, and no shafts. The only thing I didn't do and wish I did was install some arp rod bolts. Good luck with it. Although it's not the end of the word if you have the crank cut, or have to for that matter, try not to have that done. It sounds like all is well.
Glad to hear it's all salvageable.

Will you be using a 1g or a 2g head?

I can't wait for the shootout!

1g head....bought it for $35, needs new valves. Prob just stock, if not I will upgrade the whole damn valvetrain and try to get this car revving to 8 w/ some fp3's but budget does not look like it will support this. Getting the best of both worlds stock partswise I guess, 90's big rods, 2g turbo mani, 1g throttle body and intake manifold, 2g o2 housing...goin w/ clevite(sp?) bearings...debating whether getting the head and turbo manifold ported for $200 is worth it...probably not.

I actually didn't know I was getting arps or balance shaft elim with the rebuild but he says he would never rebuild an engine with shafts still there and stock head studs. He said the crank looked fine, was getting a shop to look at the crank for any work that needed to be done...