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96 intermittent starting problems


nicolem
07-19-2005, 01:03 AM
I have a 96 Explorer. For the past 1 1/2 years it has had intermittent starting problems. When this happens, it does crank but does not actually start. It happens when the engine is warm/hot, as in running errands and I need to stop and start the car. It has always done fine first thing in the morning and after being parked at work all day. But recently, even this has failed me. It has never stopped while running---only has trouble starting.

Over this time, I have taken it to the shop several times and they have not been able to figure it out. It never has the starting problem for them. They have fixed several things guessing at what it could be. My check engine light is on and has been for years. The latest readings showed that it was the oxygen sensors and they replaced those. But the light came back on a week later or so. They have put in new spark plugs and belts and all sorts of other things.

I know nothing about cars and am debating how much more money and effort to put in this car. After reading some of the entries on this and other forums, it seems it could be some sort of fuel relay or EEC relay. Any ideas? What do I tell the mechanic?

Thanks in advance!

HectorDiaz
07-19-2005, 09:32 AM
I have a 97 For dExplorer Sport. I have the same problem. When it does not start, I let it sit for a while (an hour or so) and then it starts as if there were no problem. I too replaced the battery, the alternator and have taken it to several mechanics who are all stumped. My problems started about a 6 months after having the engine completely rebuilt. It's been about a year now. I would hate to get rid of it since I put so much into rebuilding the engine. I thought that maybe that guy did something wrong but maybe this is more common than I thought. If you have any luck please let me know, I would REALY like to stop this problem.

listddp
07-27-2005, 03:23 PM
I've got a 98 Merc Mountaineer/Explorer and seem to be having the same problem. It's been getting provressively worse and it started about 6 to 8 months ago. Its in the shop as of today to see if they can find the problem. I have a Haynes repair manual that suggested a number of things to check(with a multimeter). I replaced the ig coil because it was out of specs(secondary resistance) and cleaned the IAC valve, and replaced fuel filter, but last night had the same problem when leaving LOWES. The shop is going to check the fuel pressure and other sensors as well as engine codes that may have be logged without check engine light. I'll post an update with what they find.

exploded99
07-27-2005, 05:03 PM
I've got a 98 Merc Mountaineer/Explorer and seem to be having the same problem. It's been getting provressively worse and it started about 6 to 8 months ago. Its in the shop as of today to see if they can find the problem. I have a Haynes repair manual that suggested a number of things to check(with a multimeter). I replaced the ig coil because it was out of specs(secondary resistance) and cleaned the IAC valve, and replaced fuel filter, but last night had the same problem when leaving LOWES. The shop is going to check the fuel pressure and other sensors as well as engine codes that may have be logged without check engine light. I'll post an update with what they find.

I would suggest to all of you to replace your Idle Air Control valves. Two bolts, sits right on top of the engine, over the throttle body, and will cost you about 50 bucks for the part. Easy to do yourself.

These get"sticky" and do not always work well when old. Replacing this will cure the starting problem for many vehicles. IAC can cause hard start, no start, intermittent start, poor idle, dies at idle, rough idle issues.

Then if you still have the problem, you can rule this issue out.

JL2695
09-07-2005, 10:44 AM
I've had the same problem here with a 96 ford explorer. Replaced the IAC but no change. What should I try next???

rginter
09-12-2005, 10:44 PM
I had a similar problem with my 96 4.0 Explorer. It would not start "warm". No problem getting it started cold or hot. The fuel pump pressure was in or very close to specs but I replaced it anyway. Problem fixed.

asemstr
09-13-2005, 10:24 PM
Try replaceing the fuel filter first, and if the problem remains check the fuel pump's pressure and output. The fuel pump may not be produceing enough pressure for start-up after its been run for a period of time so it may not be able to perform till it cools down. If thats the case you need to fire the lazy fuel pump and replace it! Its not a uncommon condition in Rangers, and Exploders! :feedback: ( :2cents: while checking cranking fuel pressure it should stay at nearly 60psi!)

JL2695
09-15-2005, 06:30 PM
I haven't got around to doing anything more with the explorer yet. I just try to avoid those short trips. As with most intermittant problems they eventually become permanent and then it's usually easier to pinpoint the problem.


Try replaceing the fuel filter first, and if the problem remains check the fuel pump's pressure and output. The fuel pump may not be produceing enough pressure for start-up after its been run for a period of time so it may not be able to perform till it cools down. If thats the case you need to fire the lazy fuel pump and replace it! Its not a uncommon condition in Rangers, and Exploders! :feedback: ( :2cents: while checking cranking fuel pressure it should stay at nearly 60psi!)

merak2310
09-17-2005, 01:36 AM
Hey everyone, I got the same probelm. Got a 98 Sport and after driving for a while it will not start. I noticed that their is air in the schrader valve so my next step is replacing fuel pump. Just wanted to see if anyone has tried tha yet. Let ya know what happens. thanks.

listddp
09-26-2005, 10:42 AM
I would suggest to all of you to replace your Idle Air Control valves. Two bolts, sits right on top of the engine, over the throttle body, and will cost you about 50 bucks for the part. Easy to do yourself.

These get"sticky" and do not always work well when old. Replacing this will cure the starting problem for many vehicles. IAC can cause hard start, no start, intermittent start, poor idle, dies at idle, rough idle issues.

Then if you still have the problem, you can rule this issue out.

Hey Everyone. Don't have good news on the 98 Merc Mount. Its still starting on the sencond attempt(while hot) after swithing the ignition off. Had replaced the IAC motor and it seemed to increase the idle, but thats all I could see as to the affect. I'll pass the information about the fuel pump...it was at the very low end of the specs(30 psi) when I had the fuel pressure checked.
Thanks for all the information.

JL2695
09-26-2005, 10:51 AM
I haven't got around to doing anything more with the explorer yet. I just try to avoid those short trips. As with most intermittant problems they eventually become permanent and then it's usually easier to pinpoint the problem.


Was wondering if this solved your problem. I noticed asomething this weekend that might lean toward the fuel pump. After church I was sitting in th ecar waiting for my wife and I turned the the key on to roll down the windows and listen to the radio. It was only on for about two minutes but had trouble starting the car after that. Doesn't the fuel pump come on as soon as the key is turned? Seems like the fuel pump might have good pressure right at first but then drops off if the car isn't started up right away.

~manuel~
09-26-2005, 12:31 PM
Was wondering if this solved your problem. I noticed asomething this weekend that might lean toward the fuel pump. After church I was sitting in th ecar waiting for my wife and I turned the the key on to roll down the windows and listen to the radio. It was only on for about two minutes but had trouble starting the car after that. Doesn't the fuel pump come on as soon as the key is turned? Seems like the fuel pump might have good pressure right at first but then drops off if the car isn't started up right away.
check your static fuel pressure when you turn the key on but leave the engine off(and dont crank either). fuel pressure should remain steady, if you see it start to drop immediately, then you have a defective internal check valve,which is part of the fuel pump assembly, or bad pressure regulator.

mjmj2000
10-02-2005, 04:36 PM
I just had my 96 explorer in the shop for the intermittent starting problem, I got tired of waiting for it to start and had it towed. They replaced a computer rely that was faulty seems to have worked so far

srercrcr
10-19-2005, 04:50 AM
Has anybody checked to see if there's a Ford Technical Service Bulletin for this on their year of Explorer?

JL2695
08-29-2006, 05:40 PM
ok I know this is an old thread but I finally got around to changing the fuel pump in my 95 Explorer. The problem seemed to go away for a while but it's back again. Any other ideas out there??
To recap, The problem is that sometimes the car will crank and crank but won't fire up. When it does start, which is most of the time, it strats up right off just like a new car. I replacede the iac valve and the fuel pump so what's next?

JL2695
09-06-2006, 01:24 PM
It's me again and I've still got this problem. I replaced the IAC valve and the fuel pump, then I replaced the fuel pump and the eec relay and still got the same problem. Any ideas on what to try next????

rginter
09-06-2006, 07:34 PM
Did you use a Ford fuel pump or an aftermarket fuel pump?

JL2695
09-07-2006, 09:21 AM
I used a fuel pump I bought at Autozone.
I've been searching other forums and have found a clue to this problem. It appears that when I turn the key, if the "Check Engine" light comes on the car will start but if I notice the light does not come on then it won't start. According to another forum this is an indication of a problem with the PCM (powertrain control module). I'm looking into this aspect now but am having trouble locating a PCM, it could also be a grounding problem or dirty connections with this module but I'm thinking it needs to be replaced.
Any thoughts out there?

way2old
09-07-2006, 09:28 AM
A failing ignition switch may cause the same problem. It is the one located on the lower part of the steering column, not the key cylinder.

JL2695
09-07-2006, 09:45 AM
A failing ignition switch may cause the same problem. It is the one located on the lower part of the steering column, not the key cylinder.


I'd love to think that is the problem but the car cranks normally it just won't start up. When this happens, if I open the air filter assembly and spray some starter fluid in towards the engine then it will start up, so it appears that a signal is not getting to the fuel pump or for some other reason fuel is not getting where it needs to be initially to start up. Once started it runs normally. Do you still think it could be the ignition switch??

way2old
09-07-2006, 12:39 PM
The only way to be sure is to test to see if the fuel pump has power when the ignition is turned to the run position. But, as you know, if it does not act up it can't be found easily. The ignition switch can cause the problem you describe if it is out of adjustment or starting to lose contacts inside the switch. It is just a process of testing items when it will not start.

rginter
09-07-2006, 06:04 PM
I had a 96 4.0 that wouldn't start when it was warm. Hot or cold it started fine. I tested the fuel pressure. It was within specs. Took it to a shop. They were stumped. Common sense told me the fuel supply was the problem, so I replaced the fuel filter. No help. I was tired of messing with it so I bought a new fuel pump from Ford and replaced the old one. I could have gone with a cheaper aftermarket pump but I only wanted to pull the tank once. Anyway, that fixed the problem. It started fine after that. Every time.

DAYALALITO01
10-13-2006, 07:44 PM
Have You Change The Crank Position Sensor ?

rhandwor
10-15-2006, 10:35 AM
They have a DTR sensor on the side of the transmission if the contacts are worn they won't start. Try putting your foot on the brake and put it in neutral if it starts right up this is your problem. As some vehicles are different age in the thread. A 1997 no start is usually a crankshaft position sensor. A bad crankshaft position sensor will also cause problems. Put an ohm meter on a disconnected one and it should go fron zero to 1 when cranking. If you have a distributor put a 12v test light on the coil negative it should blink when cranking. Otherwise auto zone or advanced check them for free.
I would advise a motorcraft echlin or standard module or pickup.

JL2695
10-16-2006, 09:14 AM
I finally found out what the problem was with my Explorer. It turned out to be the fuel pump relay or the eec relay. I replaced two relays earlier but as it turns out they were the wrong ones, not the fuel pump & eec relays like I thought. I found the right location of these relays and replaced them and the problem is gone.

way2old
10-16-2006, 11:40 AM
Thanks for taking the time to post the fix. It may help someone else with their repair.

fordfan1000
01-25-2007, 06:30 AM
Change the fuel pump relay,mine had the exact same symptoms and I have not had a glitch for 6 months now.

Scooters Explorer
02-07-2007, 08:44 AM
I had the same problem with my 94 explorer.....CarMax tried a bunch of different things, new oxygen sensor, new alternator. Than I found a great set of mechanics that figured out it was a bad or going bad fuel pump. Best way to check if this is the problem is to beat on it with a hammer. I know it sounds weird but that what they did.......the mechanic said that when a pump or a starter is starting to go bad it you give it a few good raps with a hammer or tire iron then it will get it back in alignment and start working. Give it a try...it will get you home if you're stuck somewhere but still change the fuel pump so you don't have to crawl under the truck everytiime you wanna go home.

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