The Total Dumbass

that I am.:disappoin

I email Centerline to find out the torque values for the Convo-Pro's on my maro... She email's me back "What's the thread size" - I email her back "The thread size of what?" - She emails me back... "Lets start simple... what kind of car do you have?"

Jeez.:loser:

What in the hell is she talking about??? I thought that certain rims only fit certain hubs (or whatever the hell the thing the lug bolts stick out of is called). :lol2::loser::loser: :screwy:

I know nothing about cars... I'm gonna go home and drink myself into oblivion.

I'm gonna go home and drink myself into oblivion.


Have no idea what the hell the rest of that was all about, but I heard that! :cheers:

that I am.:disappoin

I email Centerline to find out the torque values for the Convo-Pro's on my maro... She email's me back "What's the thread size" - I email her back "The thread size of what?" - She emails me back... "Lets start simple... what kind of car do you have?"

Jeez.:loser:

What in the hell is she talking about??? I thought that certain rims only fit certain hubs (or whatever the hell the thing the lug bolts stick out of is called). :lol2::loser::loser: :screwy:

I know nothing about cars... I'm gonna go home and drink myself into oblivion.

maybe she is asking about how long those bolts are that are coming out of the hub thing... i really donno wtf she was talking about tho :S

got me 2 on that

So maybe I'm not as car-dumb as I thought???

So maybe I'm not as car-dumb as I thought???

lol, you thought right about how car dumb... just thought about it for the wrong person

lol, you thought right about how car dumb... just thought about it for the wrong person

Earlsfat your honesty is commendable. If she's asking about thread size, she has to referring to the thread pitch of the wheel bolts/nuts. I'd have to check, but I would be suprised if they were something other than 1/2 X 20.

Earlsfat your honesty is commendable. If she's asking about thread size, she has to referring to the thread pitch of the wheel bolts/nuts. I'd have to check, but I would be suprised if they were something other than 1/2 X 20.

why would she need to know that?

why would she need to know that?

If he's asking what the lug nuts should be torqued to, the actual thread size/pitch would probably make a difference on the final torque yield.

It would have nothing to do with whether or not a wheel would fit a car. Unless the wheel studs were too wide to fit through the rim. Bolt pattern and backspacing/offset are the main things to be concerned with when considering what rim will fit.

email back, big enough for you :)

lmao, i was just thinking to myslef on someone with alot of car smarts just replyed lets see what he says... lol, now im disapointed with the anwser... :p

meh, the question was already answered what was i gonna do, repeat everything lol

If he's asking what the lug nuts should be torqued to, the actual thread size/pitch would probably make a difference on the final torque yield.

:iagree: They want to know thread diameter & pitch. Torque is determined by that and type of material the bolt, nut or stud is made from.

like that :evillol:

lol, see i didnt know all that, now that i do i guess it works out... *Learned Something*

Hehe, have a ME for a father, you learn stuff like that.

Hehe, have a ME for a father, you learn stuff like that.

WHAT??? At 18 you better not be a father. And to be MY father you'd have to do some sort of quantum leap of time back almost double your age to accomplish a feat like that. lol.

:iagree: They want to know thread diameter & pitch. Torque is determined by that and type of material the bolt, nut or stud is made from.

YEAH!!! That's what she said "pitch". Like how in the HELL do I know? How does she know that the hubs are from a 70 maro??? The motor's from a 74 Monte Carlo or Chevelle, Since 70 Z28's came with a 12 bolt, and mine is a 10 bolt, I'm guessing it's not from a Maro either. I wouldn't surprised if the front hub assemblies were from a different car too.

What type of material the bolt is made of???? What the hell am I supposed to do... lick the damn thing and see if I figure it out based on taste??? Go buy a spectrometer (or whatever the hell that thing is called) and test the bolt to see what it's made of??? I HAVE A SET OF YOUR FRIGGIN WHEELS... WHAT'S THE RECOMMENDED TORQUE VALUE TO PUT THEM ON MY DAMNED CAR???

YEAH!!! That's what she said "pitch". Like how in the HELL do I know? How does she know that the hubs are from a 70 maro??? The motor's from a 74 Monte Carlo or Chevelle, Since 70 Z28's came with a 12 bolt, and mine is a 10 bolt, I'm guessing it's not from a Maro either. I wouldn't surprised if the front hub assemblies were from a different car too.

What type of material the bolt is made of???? What the hell am I supposed to do... lick the damn thing and see if I figure it out based on taste??? Go buy a spectrometer (or whatever the hell that thing is called) and test the bolt to see what it's made of??? I HAVE A SET OF YOUR FRIGGIN WHEELS... WHAT'S THE RECOMMENDED TORQUE VALUE TO PUT THEM ON MY DAMNED CAR???

:rofl:

I guess..you gotta go back to chemistry, get a bolt, break it into little peices and look at the damn thing in a microscope or how it reacts to other elements.

Or you can just buy another set of wheels, or do guess work.

Get a thread pitch gauge and see what the pitch is. Use calipers and measure the stud diameter. As to the type of metal...all wheel studs are pretty much the same alloy.

Thanks.

Did I type that wrong?.....My FATHER is an ME, and being around him, you learn stuff like bolt torques, etc., etc, etc, and alot of shit you don't care to know...lol

-Ryan

OHhh....the ME in the first post means Mechanical Engineer (ME)

lol, thats pretty funny,


dude, you are taking this wayyyy to seriously. unless you are bracket racing and are going for complete consistancy run to run, you can just torque the wheels down by hand, run the bolts in till they stop, then turn an extra oommph to make them tight. if you are using an impact gun, get a set of torque sticks, and use the grey one.

:iagree:

Thats what I do, just do it yourself with your wrench.

Just torque them to 90 ftlbs

OHhh....the ME in the first post means Mechanical Engineer (ME)

hahahaha. Talk about misunderstanding something, that was funny, I thought you said I needed YOU for a father. That's pretty damn funny.

lol, thats pretty funny,


dude, you are taking this wayyyy to seriously. unless you are bracket racing and are going for complete consistancy run to run, you can just torque the wheels down by hand, run the bolts in till they stop, then turn an extra oommph to make them tight. if you are using an impact gun, get a set of torque sticks, and use the grey one.

So it really doesn't make that big of a difference??? I thought it would damage the wheels or something. What's the big deal with torque values on wheels then???

ill bet a penny that it is 100 ft/lbs. most american cars are 100 and most imports are 80.

Funny part is, I don't have a penny to bet right now.

lmao

i believe it matters and depends on the material of the wheel. if it is an aluminum wheel it should be more than a steel wheel. Aluminum expands and contracts a lot. Thats one of the reasons they dont use aluminum wiring anymore because the expanding and contracting lossens connections, creates hot spots, and eventually burns the house down. This is my theory anyways.....all that and in the manual for the car it lists the aluminum wheels as having a higher torque setting than the steel wheel. i believe the aluminums are at 100 and the steel at 90 or something like that. No biggie either way....

the manual for my camaro that is....

at work we go by the car...not the wheel....we have a huge chart with like every single car on it and its torque rating for the rims. I just stopped in to work for a minute and I looked and it is 100 ft/lbs. But with aluminum wheels, we suggest after 150 miles you retorque them just to make sure they havent loosened up because obviously aluminum is softer than steel.

Thanks Korndogg

the reason torque values are important is not to keep the tire on securly, but to keep you from over tightening the lug nuts and warping the rotor and/or rim. the 100ft/lbs is a good guestamate. we torqued the big truck rims to 120ft/lbs and they had the cast aluminum rims.

yeah....my trucks torque is 140f ft/lbs....and your welcome

at work we go by the car...not the wheel....we have a huge chart with like every single car on it and its torque rating for the rims. I just stopped in to work for a minute and I looked and it is 100 ft/lbs. But with aluminum wheels, we suggest after 150 miles you retorque them just to make sure they havent loosened up because obviously aluminum is softer than steel.

lol, is that every 150 miles? or just the first time?

just the first time.

ook, that would suck if you had to torque your aluminum wheels every 150 miles...

lol, i think id swap to steelies