2000 Trooper 96k conflicting codes

New to the forum and may ask some dumb questions.

My 2000 trooper w/ 96k (engine only has 42k, motor was replaced by dealer )

10k ago engine began consuming oil did the seafoam fix and seemed to help for a while, now I just check my oil every 3-400 miles and live with it

Now check engine light coming on, went to Autozone to read codes and boy was there a list

Too lean on bank 1 & to rich on bank 1 & misfire on bank 1

Too lean on bank 2 & to rich on bank 2 & misfire on bank 2

Catalytic pressure out of range

What Can I do (other then sell it, It's already paid for)

misfire codes are commonly caused by leaky intake manifold gaskets.

is that a DIY job or should I take it in to a dealer?

Also runs rough 1st thing in morning, usually clears up in 5 or 10 min.

I've seen several posts on how to remove it. Some say you can slip it in without completely removing the top manifold. You need to be carefull removing the old gasket not to drop pieces using this method. Personally, I completely removed mine, it was pretty easy. The only hard part was a little 10mm bolt on the very back holding it down.. very tight spot to get a wrench on it.
P.S. My trooper had the exact same symptoms as yours. You should be able to verify this by spraying some carb cleaner around the perimeter of the manifold while its running. It should cause the idle to jump when it sucks the cleaner into the hole.

I followed your link and I did the braker cleaner test (whole can all the way around) and never noticed a change in the idle. Is it worth the effort to change it just to rule out the gasket? Could the egr valve be involved? I ready a few posts about cleanng that, or should I do both?

WHen I took my truck in once, they (for whatever reason) pulled the codes and said I had a mis-fire and swapped out the IMG (under warrenty). The only thing that I notice was the the RPM fluxuated about 50 rpm while sitting still.

What is the history on your fuel filter?

And yes, I would clean the EGR and EGR port too. It may not help your problem but it is good to do it anyways.


I think the cost of the job at the dealer is 350-400. The parts cost about 50 bucks.

If I was out of warranty I would still have the dealer change it out.

I noticed in the faq that it stated brake cleaner.. but I swear when the tech sprayed mine it was with carb cleaner. Try a little carb cleaner and see if that does anything. Again, I'll minor auto repair i.e. brakes, alternator, starter... and would compare the IMG job as about the same level of difficulty.

Update

It ran great (No CE light and smooth preformance) on the way home from work about 5 miles. This morning CE light flashing no power lots of hesitiation. In the mornings it seems bad. This weekend I am going to try and change the IMG( printed the step by step directions), Clean the ERV (again printed the directions) and may even try the Seafoam treatment.

1 Question, I heard someone mention putting it in the Gas tank, has anyone tried this?

You can put it in the gas tank too. But a word of warning, if you have never added such a product to your tank before you may free up a bunch of junk which will plug up you fuel filter. So be ready to switch out the fuel filter 1 tank after the treatment if you have never add a product like this before to the gas.

I noticed in the faq that it stated brake cleaner.. but I swear when the tech sprayed mine it was with carb cleaner...

Yes. DO NOT use brake cleaner. That stuff can wreak havok on certain paints, plastics and plated surfaces. ONLY use a sensor safe carb cleaner, or preferably, water mist for the 'gasket checking' procedure.

G/luck
Joel

Yes. DO NOT use brake cleaner.

That is correct. Don't use it. I'll change the wording in the FAQ's ASAP.