Forced Proformance 18G CHRA (56kdeath:big pics)

Well on the 5th of july i recived my FP18g....
http://linux.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTDSM18G5HwoTH&Category_Code=DSM
just visually you can see how much of a beast this turbo is.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/Linkz192/Talon/115_1524.jpg
that is a 14b vs the 18g.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/Linkz192/Talon/compare3.jpg
notice the 18g has no water lines..... :icon16:
since this is only the compressor side of the turbo i preassembled the exhaust side and any olther nessesidies.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/Linkz192/Talon/ready4turbo.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/Linkz192/Talon/vconmotor2.jpg
acouple things needed to be reused, waste gate acuator, turbine housing, oil return , and the clamp that holds the turbine housing to the compressor side.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/Linkz192/Talon/workbench2.jpg
next i went about relocating the oil feed line.
first thing was to put in the fitting on the oil filter housing.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/Linkz192/Talon/oilsupplydone2.jpg
from there i blocked off the old feed sorce on the head. Remember to use teflon tape!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/Linkz192/Talon/blockoffoil.jpg
next i preped the turbo before it went in.
i connected the banjo bolt and fitting to the turbo snugly. from there i added on the SS oil feed line.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/Linkz192/Talon/ssoilfeed.jpg
Now as my friend held the turbo in place i went under the car and connected it using the clamp. and before i knew it i was half way done.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/Linkz192/Talon/incar.jpg
next was all the little things , oil feed, return, waste gate acuator...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/Linkz192/Talon/115_1526.jpg

put on the J pipe and i was done!

some Finished Pictures :iceslolan :smokin:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/Linkz192/Talon/18g2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/Linkz192/Talon/18g3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/Linkz192/Talon/18gturbo.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/Linkz192/Talon/newestmotorshotcloseup.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/Linkz192/Talon/sweepingshot2.jpg

The car pulls alot harder than it ever has...at 10psi i felt a differance...now with some tuning and @ 15psi it feels great!
and im on a stock fuel system and a stock exhaust. and when one or both are replaced with some 780cc etc...or a 3in turbo back...i hope to feel even great gains.
i do have a DSMLink log on 15psi , pump gas, with the 18g....
http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2614
download it and tell me what you think.
i have gradually pulled 2-3 degrees of timing from 6.5k on and another -2% of fuel to give a -7% global total. i did all the adjustments previosly mentioned after this log was taken

all and all the 18g was definatly worth the money , cant wait to get it to its full potential and really see what it can do :evillol:

when i get some more mods done ill take more logs....peace :loser:

-Jake- :loser:

Kick ass bro!!!

heres a log that works.....turned boost up to 17-18psi in this log. enjoy
http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2615


tell me what you think
thanks,
Jake

Looking real good there Jake! Whats the max rated hp output on that compared to the evo3 16g?

They are about the same, 42-44 lbs/min. ;)

I tried to view the logs, but I'm getting an invalide link specified note. I check the DSMlink forums, but I dont see a thread, do you have a link for it?

i jsut added them to my attachments.... guess i got to have a thread on them...

EDIT>> link to new posted logs on dsmlink forums http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2630

link to thread:
http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5084

my question is.... how am i able to run 17.5 psi and not get any fuel cuts??.....somthing dosent seem right in the logs....

You definitely will not get fuel cut with DSMlink ;)

Airflow does seem low for that boost, but there are too many variables to say. There is a good bit of knock in the log, but most of it seems mechanical or something. What is your base timing set to? Use a timing light and use DSMlink to hold it at 5 degrees. I'm guessing it will be more. AFR looks good. Any idea why your fuel trims are maxed out high? Is this a stock MAS? Hacked? Airflow is very low at idle, and the idle switch does not appear to be functioning. A log with ThrotPos logged would be very helpful. Front o2 is low at WOT but is still cycling, any idea how old it is?

You definitely will not get fuel cut with DSMlink ;)

Airflow does seem low for that boost, but there are too many variables to say. There is a good bit of knock in the log, but most of it seems mechanical or something. What is your base timing set to? Use a timing light and use DSMlink to hold it at 5 degrees. I'm guessing it will be more. AFR looks good. Any idea why your fuel trims are maxed out high? Is this a stock MAS? Hacked? Airflow is very low at idle, and the idle switch does not appear to be functioning. A log with ThrotPos logged would be very helpful. Front o2 is low at WOT but is still cycling, any idea how old it is?
i have taken away timming as needed. i have no idea about what the base time is ....jake might know....now about the fuel trims...do you mean why are the injectors maxing out at 18psi? , i do not have the slightest idea why it takes so much boost to max them out :confused: , :confused: it is a stock 2g maf, it is unhacked. its the same o2 since i bought the car, and as far as i know it could be 10years old.....

There is nothing wrong with anything to do with the injectors as far as I can tell. The actual trims are maxed out, as I said, LTFT and STFT are at 12.5%. Its taking so much boost to max them out because airflow is so low. If the MAS is untouched I would consider it trustworthy though. If airflow was reading low for some reason though actual AFR would be leaner than the DSMlink AF Ratio calculation. If I Remember correctly idle airflow was about .11 g/rev at idle, but the car was moving. Get a log that includes some idle time, including throttle position this time, and post it up. If airflow is still .11 g/rev we'll have to fix that and see what it does to trims. If that works, you might be all set with the O2 sensor. And it does appear to cycle ok.

Timing is set to 5* BTDC.

Did you do a boost leak test now that you have everything in and good?

no but im going to do one before the day is over...


EDIT>>> did the test , no leaks. but i descovered that when i installed the turbo i forgot to plug in the emmitions hose on the intake. letting un metered air to bypass the MAS....now i get to log all over agian :grinno:

new logs !!! :p

both of these are a tad below 18 psi(17.85psi)

i have a completely stock exhaust.... and a completely stock fuel system, smic , yad yad yad

first log is with fuel completely zeroed out. the timing is pulled in higer rpms. on a side note im still simly amazed i can run 18 psi on stock fuel system...maybe the exhaust has somthing to do with that :confused:

Log One:
http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2768


the second log is at -5 fuel globaly. pulled alittle more timing to give it a smoother retard. also i do these logs on a freeway onramp....so in the second log you can see were i got stuck behind a truck :crying: and later passed :grinyes:

Log Two:
http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2769

tuning after log..... i gradually raised the fuel to 3% richer at 4000rpm , starting at 3k and gradually adding till peaking 3% at 4k then back to -5 globaly at 5k... in hopes to spool turbo quicker when shutter boxing.....

the link to the dsmlink forums thread on these logs can be found here http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/showthread.php?p=49211#post49211 but no replys yet :banghead: :shakehead

please let me know if im on the right path here with tuning.....and correct me if i did somthing horribly wrong :nono:

thanks ,
Jake

The injectors are at ~91% IDC, which supports a 10:1 AFR. At 10:1 the stock 2g pump is good to ~35 lbs/min. You are only at 27 lbs, so its no mystery that the stock fuel system is keeping up. You haven't gone over its limits yet. :) Boost is meaningless (well, it has an effect on the pumps capacity), airflow is what really matters. On my 2g at 18 psi I would have been over 50 lbs/min, to illustrate the point.

The logs look great. I usually look at 70-90s times but that second log doesnt show it. Going by 80-90 times, its too close to tell, especially with the characteristics of the speed signal. I would expect it to get faster in the second log with a more appropriate target AFR, high 10s. Since there was no knock I would shoot for 11:1. I normally don't like to pull timing negative on the sliders, but in your case it is the right thing to do since airflow per rev is less than 2.1 grams, and your changes keep timing to a peak of ~17 degrees, which is what I shoot for on pump. BUT, with lower airflow, you can often get away with a little more timing, especially at higher rpm (after 6k perhaps). If you can run an estimated 11:1 AFR with no knock, I would consider adding in a little timing, up to 19 degrees or so. Keep logging each change in third gear so you can compare 70-90 times. Looking good so far :)

Oh yeah, it's not a problem so to speak, but you typically want to do WOT fuel changes on the RPM based sliders without messing with global. Global and deadtime are used to compensate for the injectors. The sliders are applied only at WOT, so changes there don't bollix your trims and part throttle operation. They should be adjsuted independantly. In my case I could have cared less for trims on the 2g, it was practically a race only car and ran a little sloppy at idle and cruise with all the mods. But with a stock fuel system, its easy to keep it running right. I Would use the WOT sliders only. It's up to you though. Enjoy.

Looks pretty good. Looks like you're good for another pound of boost if you don't knock. If so, you'll need some more fuel to richen it up.

i think i want to stay at 18psi for now and just lean it out via dsmlink. i am worried about heatsoaking the SMIC. thanks for the info kevin, just to clairifly when i adjust the fuel, i should set the global back to zero and pull -5 from the sliders instead....and keep pulling from sliders as i want to make the A/F ratio leaner?

i think i want to stay at 18psi for now and just lean it out via dsmlink. i am worried about heatsoaking the SMIC. thanks for the info kevin, just to clairifly when i adjust the fuel, i should set the global back to zero and pull -5 from the sliders instead....and keep pulling from sliders as i want to make the A/F ratio leaner?

Yeah. With stock fuel compnents, namely injectors, you can trust fuel delivery to be accurate, so the ECU will target 9.5:1 at over 2.1 g/rev, and that comes out to be fairly accurate.

To determine what percent change to make to achieve a given target AFR, divide 9.5/what you want - 1. So if you want 11:1, 9.5/11 - 1, or -14%. This will match what is given in the DSMlink 2g Tuning guide as well, which you can download from the forums (common downloads thread in DSMlink Support). But leaving global at 0 will allow the ECU to work as expected during idle and cruise situations, which is about 98% of the time it's running.

Someone mentioned on the DSMlink forums that the Boost Est was significantly lower than guage boost, but with smaller more restricitive setups this seems to be common. If you have a stock MAS and have not touched the MAF Comp tables in DSMlink, I would ignore that discrepancy.

So I Would recomend setting global to zero, then gradually drop the fuel sliders until AF Ratio displays what you are trying to reach. I personally tune for 11:1 on pump gas, but on your setup 10.5:1 or 10.75:1 might make more sense. This is why I said I liked your second log better than the first, AFR was leaned out from about 10.2:1 to about 10.7:1. Once you have fuel where you want it, I would try to run all zeros on the timing gradually adding in what you have taken out in the high end. You may not be able to put it all back in! And that is not to be considered a failure, each setup is a little different. But all zeros on the timing sliders should still be pretty conservative, so I would attempt to reach that keeping an eye on knock. When you get a FMIC and a bigger setup or run race gas you can start to add in some more timing going positive on the sliders. But for now all zeros would be a good start. If you can get it to this point feel free to post the logs again, and note the diference in 70-90 times to guage your actual improvement in performance (assuming the road is level, etc).

sweeet work!!