problems with swap

ok well the h22a swap is in. I used the h23 wiring harness and simply took the vtec solenoid and oil pressure switch sensors off the h22 harness. i swapped the dizzy and the external coil and mounted it. (side question, if i had used the h22a harness how wud i have hooked up the external coil?) Now, teh engine will not start. sounds almost like not enough power. it may be teh battery and ill find out tommorow if it is, but could their be any other reason why its not starting. also i ahvent hookd up the intake system yet so that could be a problem, but i doubt it. any ideas and help would be great.

ok well the h22a swap is in. I used the h23 wiring harness and simply took the vtec solenoid and oil pressure switch sensors off the h22 harness. i swapped the dizzy and the external coil and mounted it. (side question, if i had used the h22a harness how wud i have hooked up the external coil?) Now, teh engine will not start. sounds almost like not enough power. it may be teh battery and ill find out tommorow if it is, but could their be any other reason why its not starting. also i ahvent hookd up the intake system yet so that could be a problem, but i doubt it. any ideas and help would be great.

hey congrats on the swap... i'm sure you'll get it up and running... if it's sounding like a weak attempt at start (ie: starter whrring slowly) you are prob right about the battery - besides that it's usually one of a few things - air (usually not a prob), fuel, spark, compression... - break er' down and it should work out (;

hope that photo of the coil mount helped ... woot.

You dont live in PA by any chance do you? B/c I could help ya..

well i got a battery, and it turns over quite nicely now, but evry time i do i hear a pop sound, which i ttink is coming from my exhaust, i have open headers right now, doest all mount up right. i always hesitate after the popping, afraid it might be something else. could the starting issues have somehting to do with teh intake since not all the vaccum lines are not hooked up. thanks and i live in southern MD

Poping could be from Vacuum lines or perhaps the fact that theres no back pressure from running open headers. I had the same thing happen. When I did my one swap I didnt have all the lines connected and I had just the top of the Header man connected; no down. So, dont worry. ONce you connect all lines and connect your down pipe you should be ok. Dont forget the vacuum lines on the right side and and back behind the intake manifold. I thought I had em all when I did my first H swap and there were 2 back there that were un done causing the popping to continue and a loss on the power band. Just letting you know. GL.

so the popping is harmless?, shud i ignore it and continue to turn it over so it starts? my headers and my cat dont mount up, so ill prolly take the cat off and put the downpipe on just for a little for back pressure, that is until i can get a test pipe made.

I would say go over the whole vaccum system and make sure its where its supposed to be. I found a vaccum diagram on this site and I used that. Note that car will still be loud has hell even with the down pipe. I dont reccomend taking it out b/c you will get pulled over. Then yes start her up and go from there.

it was the firing order causing the popping sound, but now i have another problem. my clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor. i bled the clutch but i never got decent pressure when pumping the clutch. i got it to the point where the fluid was steady but not pressurized. so needless to say my clutch still sticks to the floor because i still have air in the lines. i am having problems any idea, if i fix this i'm done yay

KEEP PUMPING:? hehe

im throwin CEL 7, tps, and CEL 23, KS, any one ever had problems with these before. also my ideal is ridiculously high, any thoughts?

i had the same thing happen use an air bleeder.