Possible hydro lock
Datura99
07-11-2005, 09:08 AM
The other day on my way home I ended up hydroplaneing through some water in my Lude. didn't seem to deep and it was more on the right side of the car my intake filter thingy don'tknow what exactly to call it comes out underneath the front bumper. Anyways after driving through the water all the sudden the battery light came on and the car started to shut down. eventually it cut off. I kept trying to start it giving it gas all kinda of white smoke is coming out the tail pipe. eventullay the car had a little power and i was apply to pull ito a parking lot.kept trying the car eventully it started working again except now i had a ticking sound and the car was really weak. I sat for a few hours atempted to slowly drive home after ading some oil to the engine since it was low. car is very weak at this point could only really go about 30 mph eventually the car shook heard a lound clang the ticking got a lot louder this time I pulled over at a gas station. All the oil is leaking out of the bottom of my car. Engine still starts up and the car will still move. just now there is a lound clanging noise when the engine runs. got the car towned home. Anyways A friend of mine told me before the way the last person who owned the car had the cold air intake set up going through the bottom the way it was that I should get a bypass something to prevent hydro lock. my question is What the hell happend to my car and can it be fixed for what I what i just explained. And what kinda damge can hydro lock do to one's car.
honda_racing101
07-11-2005, 12:41 PM
Yeah, you might be screwed. That white smoke and loss of power and ticking is pry from water. Did the filter get submerged? For damage just take it to a repair shop and have him look at it. hydrolock can cause the engine to seize but obviously yours didn't. So yeah take it to a mechanic and have him check it out.
ludeguy
07-12-2005, 12:51 AM
Yeah, you might be screwed. That white smoke and loss of power and ticking is pry from water. Did the filter get submerged? For damage just take it to a repair shop and have him look at it. hydrolock can cause the engine to seize but obviously yours didn't. So yeah take it to a mechanic and have him check it out.
bent valves - broken rod.. something of that nature.. - if you leaked a boatload of oil - chances are you put a rod thru the side of your block or something...
basically what happens - if you don't have a bypass valve - if your air intake sucks huge amounts of water - it disperses it to the cylinders - as it would normally the air - however water does NOT compress the way air does (naturally) so as the piston travels UP on it's compression stroke (when both the exhaust valves/intake valves are closed) - a lot of bad things happen. the water is not compressing...and the water - now has NO WHERE to go/exit. the piston is trying to travel upwards so the connecting rod/piston pin that is moving the piston upwards takes the brunt of the impact force... but obviously anything taking that kinda force is gonna have negative side effects on everything else in the chain.. ie: your crankshaft/bearings/valves.. meh..
i hate to be the bearer of bad news - but you are pretty much shopping for a new engine... consider a jdm h22a.
people with a CAI should consider the AEM bypass valve for this very reason - or just stick with shortram - despite it's 1hp less or whateva the dyno's say. if you live in a totally rainy place - CAI's aren't worth it - in my opinion.
best of luck,.
bent valves - broken rod.. something of that nature.. - if you leaked a boatload of oil - chances are you put a rod thru the side of your block or something...
basically what happens - if you don't have a bypass valve - if your air intake sucks huge amounts of water - it disperses it to the cylinders - as it would normally the air - however water does NOT compress the way air does (naturally) so as the piston travels UP on it's compression stroke (when both the exhaust valves/intake valves are closed) - a lot of bad things happen. the water is not compressing...and the water - now has NO WHERE to go/exit. the piston is trying to travel upwards so the connecting rod/piston pin that is moving the piston upwards takes the brunt of the impact force... but obviously anything taking that kinda force is gonna have negative side effects on everything else in the chain.. ie: your crankshaft/bearings/valves.. meh..
i hate to be the bearer of bad news - but you are pretty much shopping for a new engine... consider a jdm h22a.
people with a CAI should consider the AEM bypass valve for this very reason - or just stick with shortram - despite it's 1hp less or whateva the dyno's say. if you live in a totally rainy place - CAI's aren't worth it - in my opinion.
best of luck,.
Datura99
07-12-2005, 07:01 AM
If an engine is blow wouldn't the car not work at. Cause the car still starts up and goes. It just makes a whole lota noise but it will still move. So in that case is there any hope for repair instead of buying another engine.
sprayedlude93
07-12-2005, 10:50 AM
New motor or rebuild. Trust me I stupidly hydrolocked 2 motors before I learned. 1 was gone for sure and another had your symptoms. And I ran it for about a month and it just gets worse n worse. If you have a oil pressure gauge you will see it drops to about 3psi when your on the throttle. It gets bad. So rebuild it or get a new motor. I will tell you something tho. A friend brought this to my attn and I thought about it and it made sense. I was going the JDM route with my Lude, and I wanted the H22a over my H22a1 just b/c it was true JDM. :Blah: Now I was going to rebuild the motor exactly the same either way, so why did I want to go spending and extra $1500-$2500 on a motor that just didnt have a *1* after it? My friend made sense and I used that cash to build a motor. I got a good guy back home on the West Coast (WA STATE) who can pretty much build it capable of 40psi (which you wont hit but it will be built strong) for around $2k So yea think about it. Rebuild it!
Datura99
07-12-2005, 11:03 AM
I always hear this term JDM in the honda forumd whatthe heck is a JDM.
ludeguy
07-12-2005, 12:02 PM
If an engine is blow wouldn't the car not work at. Cause the car still starts up and goes. It just makes a whole lota noise but it will still move. So in that case is there any hope for repair instead of buying another engine.
yea for example - it can be running on your other 3 cylinders - while the one with the broken connecting rod - beats the hell out of your internals.
you can rebuild it - but in most cases - it's going to be cheaper to just get a new engine.
New motor or rebuild. Trust me I stupidly hydrolocked 2 motors before I learned. 1 was gone for sure and another had your symptoms. And I ran it for about a month and it just gets worse n worse. If you have a oil pressure gauge you will see it drops to about 3psi when your on the throttle. It gets bad. So rebuild it or get a new motor. I will tell you something tho. A friend brought this to my attn and I thought about it and it made sense. I was going the JDM route with my Lude, and I wanted the H22a over my H22a1 just b/c it was true JDM. :Blah: Now I was going to rebuild the motor exactly the same either way, so why did I want to go spending and extra $1500-$2500 on a motor that just didnt have a *1* after it? My friend made sense and I used that cash to build a motor. I got a good guy back home on the West Coast (WA STATE) who can pretty much build it capable of 40psi (which you wont hit but it will be built strong) for around $2k So yea think about it. Rebuild it!
i agree - if you are going to go turbo at some point or do any internal work yourself at some point - the a1 variant will do fine - if you want NA, and pretty much stock - hunt down a jdm h22a.
I always hear this term JDM in the honda forumd whatthe heck is a JDM
japanese domestic market.
yea for example - it can be running on your other 3 cylinders - while the one with the broken connecting rod - beats the hell out of your internals.
you can rebuild it - but in most cases - it's going to be cheaper to just get a new engine.
New motor or rebuild. Trust me I stupidly hydrolocked 2 motors before I learned. 1 was gone for sure and another had your symptoms. And I ran it for about a month and it just gets worse n worse. If you have a oil pressure gauge you will see it drops to about 3psi when your on the throttle. It gets bad. So rebuild it or get a new motor. I will tell you something tho. A friend brought this to my attn and I thought about it and it made sense. I was going the JDM route with my Lude, and I wanted the H22a over my H22a1 just b/c it was true JDM. :Blah: Now I was going to rebuild the motor exactly the same either way, so why did I want to go spending and extra $1500-$2500 on a motor that just didnt have a *1* after it? My friend made sense and I used that cash to build a motor. I got a good guy back home on the West Coast (WA STATE) who can pretty much build it capable of 40psi (which you wont hit but it will be built strong) for around $2k So yea think about it. Rebuild it!
i agree - if you are going to go turbo at some point or do any internal work yourself at some point - the a1 variant will do fine - if you want NA, and pretty much stock - hunt down a jdm h22a.
I always hear this term JDM in the honda forumd whatthe heck is a JDM
japanese domestic market.
sprayedlude93
07-12-2005, 01:00 PM
Im sure he/she will want to eventually go with more power. Thus saying save time now and overal, save money. REBUILD. Just my 2 cents;)
honda_racing101
07-12-2005, 07:25 PM
I always hear this term JDM in the honda forumd whatthe heck is a JDM.
JDM=Japenese Domestic Market. So U.S. is USDM, and Canada is CDM.
JDM=Japenese Domestic Market. So U.S. is USDM, and Canada is CDM.
ludeguy
07-12-2005, 11:26 PM
Im sure he/she will want to eventually go with more power. Thus saying save time now and overal, save money. REBUILD. Just my 2 cents;)
until you know what's wrong with the engine - you can't just say rebuild... for all you know - a connecting rod could have beat a hole thru the side of his block - how the hell are you going to rebuild that... - the amount of metal that can be made in a short amount of time, plugs oil passages - bearing retaining mounts could be shredded... not to mention damage to the cylinder wall...(remember you can only bore to 89 or something) there is some shit you can't rebuild... I agree if he had a working block - and wanted to make more power - sure rebuild or something - but right now he has a F'd engine - and until he gets an estimate on rebuilding vs. used - how could he possible make a descision which route is the better way to go.
opinions are like assholes (;
until you know what's wrong with the engine - you can't just say rebuild... for all you know - a connecting rod could have beat a hole thru the side of his block - how the hell are you going to rebuild that... - the amount of metal that can be made in a short amount of time, plugs oil passages - bearing retaining mounts could be shredded... not to mention damage to the cylinder wall...(remember you can only bore to 89 or something) there is some shit you can't rebuild... I agree if he had a working block - and wanted to make more power - sure rebuild or something - but right now he has a F'd engine - and until he gets an estimate on rebuilding vs. used - how could he possible make a descision which route is the better way to go.
opinions are like assholes (;
sprayedlude93
07-13-2005, 08:12 AM
usually if the block if Fugged from Hydrolock all you have to do is remove the A/c and P/s assemble. Pretty much when you get down to the A/c area inspect the block. Alof of Honda blocks tend to crack there first and there might be a nice hole there for you. I read last yr in a post on a UK site. My 1st motor was X'ed there and I know someone elses who was. So hey check there. Threads getting old. He is a big boy and can start getting things done now himself. Time to un-subscibe. L8
Datura99
07-13-2005, 08:33 AM
yeah I don't know enough about engines to to any work like that myself there are some good shops around here in tampa though so once I get some money i'll be towing it in to a trusted shop to get it looked at. basically whichever way is cheaper is the route I will go. Got one question for you peoples though. If the case comes a far as a replacement engine. around how much for an h22a engine and do you recomend any good places to get one from.
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