93 Sable won't start - PLZ help!

My sable station wagon will crank but not start. Thought it was the fuel pump and replaced it. Turns out it wasn't getting power. Runs fine when wired to the battery. The Integrated Control Unit over the radiator is getting 12 volts but not sending any power to the fuel pump. I replaced the integrated control unit with a new one from the dealer. Still no power to the fuel pump. We also hard-wired the fuel pump and tried to start the car with no luck. Is there another component that can cause the control unit to NOT send power to the fuel pump? Is it possible that the same problem isn't allowing the car to start even when the fuel pump is running? This has me stumped. I hope there is an expert out there that can help. Thanks.

John

My sable station wagon will crank but not start. Thought it was the fuel pump and replaced it. Turns out it wasn't getting power. Runs fine when wired to the battery. The Integrated Control Unit over the radiator is getting 12 volts but not sending any power to the fuel pump. I replaced the integrated control unit with a new one from the dealer. Still no power to the fuel pump. We also hard-wired the fuel pump and tried to start the car with no luck. Is there another component that can cause the control unit to NOT send power to the fuel pump? Is it possible that the same problem isn't allowing the car to start even when the fuel pump is running? This has me stumped. I hope there is an expert out there that can help. Thanks.

John

Did you measure voltage to the fuel pump at the Constant Control Relay Module ("Integrated Control Unit over the radiator") or at the pump? There is a fuel pump shut off safety switch between the CCRM and the fuel pump that opens the positive voltage supply to the fuel pump. Access to the switch should be through a hole in the trunk trim panel. I believe the access hole is on the left rear trim panel (as looking from the back of the car.

Do you have a DMM and something to backprobe the Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM)? If not, find one. Probe pin 24 with the red DMM lead and ground the black DMM lead. I would suggest using pin 15 of the CCRM as the ground. Pin 15 is THE ground for the CCRM and therefore, if that ground is not good, the CCRM will not function properly. Verify that with the key in the run and start positions there is battery voltage present on pin 24. If so, next probe pin 12 with the red lead and verify that battery voltage is present (should be battery voltage at all times, regardless of key position). Assuming those are both fine, next probe pin 18 with the black DMM lead and connect the red DMM lead to battery positive. Pin 18 should be at ground potential with the key in the "run" and "Start" positions. This lead controls the fuel pump relay in the CCRM. If you have ground on pin 18, the ground the black lead again and connect the red lead to pin 5 of the CCRM. Pin 5 should have battery voltage with the key in the run and start positions. If so, this is the feed through the fuel pump shut off switch to the fuel pump. If you have battery voltage here, check for voltage at the shutoff switch. If you have voltage at the switch, then the switch may be bad or just tripped.

Good luck!

-Rod

Did you measure voltage to the fuel pump at the Constant Control Relay Module ("Integrated Control Unit over the radiator") or at the pump?

There is a fuel pump shut off safety switch between the CCRM and the fuel pump that opens the positive voltage supply to the fuel pump. Access to the switch should be through a hole in the trunk trim panel. I believe the access hole is on the left rear trim panel (as looking from the back of the car.

Do you have a DMM and something to backprobe the Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM)? If not, find one. Probe pin 24 with the red DMM lead and ground the black DMM lead. I would suggest using pin 15 of the CCRM as the ground. Pin 15 is THE ground for the CCRM and therefore, if that ground is not good, the CCRM will not function properly. Verify that with the key in the run and start positions there is battery voltage present on pin 24. If so, next probe pin 12 with the red lead and verify that battery voltage is present (should be battery voltage at all times, regardless of key position). Assuming those are both fine, next probe pin 18 with the black DMM lead and connect the red DMM lead to battery positive. Pin 18 should be at ground potential with the key in the "run" and "Start" positions. This lead controls the fuel pump relay in the CCRM. If you have ground on pin 18, the ground the black lead again and connect the red lead to pin 5 of the CCRM. Pin 5 should have battery voltage with the key in the run and start positions. If so, this is the feed through the fuel pump shut off switch to the fuel pump. If you have battery voltage here, check for voltage at the shutoff switch. If you have voltage at the switch, then the switch may be bad or just tripped.

Good luck!

-Rod

*Checked it at the CCRM. Took the cable harness off the CCRM and checked pin 5 for voltage. Book said pin 5 goes to the fuel pump and the wire is the right color pnk/bk. From the battery, the harness is getting 12 volts. I shaved back the fuel pump wire and connected the harness. After it is connected to the CCRM, no voltage gets through.


The shut off safety switch is fine. We checked it in the open and closed position for resistence. Can't check voltage since none is getting to it from the CCRM.


I'll get a multimeter and check the things you suggested. I don't know how to use one but might be able to figure it out. Please check later as I may have questions when I check the voltages and ground. Thanks for the help.

Ok. Got the testing done on the CCR module.

tested pin 15 for ground - passed
tested pin 24 using 15 as ground - run position -7.9 volts, start position +1.7 volts
tested pin 12 - 2.5 volts
tested pin 5 using pin 18 as ground - 1.15 volts

Can you make anything of these results? Thanks.

John

Ok. Got the testing done on the CCR module.

tested pin 15 for ground - passed
tested pin 24 using 15 as ground - run position -7.9 volts, start position +1.7 volts
tested pin 12 - 2.5 volts
tested pin 5 using pin 18 as ground - 1.15 volts

Can you make anything of these results? Thanks.

John

Hmmm, according to the diagram, pin 24 should be the +12V feed to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). You did backprobe the wires, right? By backprobing, I mean you had the CCRM connected as normal and probed the wires through the back of the connector. If not, that could explain a lot of you readings. All of my suggestions yesterday and below will only be accurate if the CCRM is connected and the readings are made by backprobing the connector. You may find an unfolded paper clip works well for this, just be careful to not let the uninsulated clip touch anything else metal (other than the DMM probe).

Pin 24 feeds all of the internal relays as well as the PCM, so if it does not have power, then none of the other functions controlled by the CCRM will function either (including the fuel pump). If that really has -7.9V with the key in the run position and +1.7 V during start, the computer isn't getting voltage. Because you saw a negative voltage and so many of your readings are very low, I wonder if the ground to the CCRM is bad. You might try the same measurements but use the battery negative terminal as your ground for the DMM. If now you see +12V on pin 24 and pin 12, then measure the resistance from pin 15 to battery negative. If you have anything more than a few tenths of an ohm (taking into account the resistance of the DMM leads) then that might be your issue. Pin 12 should have essentially a direct connection to battery positive. I'm assuming here that your battery has a sufficient charge on it. That might be another good test for the DMM. Measure the voltage across the battery (DMM set to VDC and red lead to battery positive, black lead to battery negative). You should see something higher than 12 Vdc.

There was a misunderstanding on the way to measure pin 5. I wanted you to connect the red DMM lead to the positive terminal of the battery and then check for ground on pin 18 (indicated by a reading of battery voltage with the key to the run or start positions). If you see a reading of battery voltage with this configuration, then connect the black DMM lead to ground and the red DMM lead to pin 5 and again check for a reading of battery voltage. It sounds like you've already done this.

Pin 18 is the ground to the fuel pump relay coil, and the other side of the relay coil should receive battery positive by being internally connected to pin 24. So, if the PCM power relay internal to the CCRM module is working properly, a good ground on pin 18 should close the fuel pump relay allowing battery voltage to be applied to the fuel pump circuit.

If you think the block diagram to the CCRM would help you, let me know and I'll post the diagram.

-Rod

I went ahead and posted the diagrams on my website. The path is http://www.members.aol.com/Rod2414738/Car_Stuff/CCRM-1.jpg
and http://www.members.aol.com/Rod2414738/Car_Stuff/CCRM-2.jpg

-Rod

My sable station wagon will crank but not start. Thought it was the fuel pump and replaced it. Turns out it wasn't getting power. Runs fine when wired to the battery. The Integrated Control Unit over the radiator is getting 12 volts but not sending any power to the fuel pump. I replaced the integrated control unit with a new one from the dealer. Still no power to the fuel pump. We also hard-wired the fuel pump and tried to start the car with no luck. Is there another component that can cause the control unit to NOT send power to the fuel pump? Is it possible that the same problem isn't allowing the car to start even when the fuel pump is running? This has me stumped. I hope there is an expert out there that can help. Thanks.

John

Hi John,

Have your exact same problem with a 92 Taurus and I'm in the middle of it right now, so I'm watching this post very closely. I pulled my fuel pump and it's fine too. I was about to run down to the dealer this morning and buy a PCM until I read this. PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU RESOLVE YOUR PROBLEM. It's maddening to see the problem and possible solution keep jumping back and forth from fuel side to electric side, I feel for ya.

Thanks in advance, and Rod, thanks for your valuable help too!
Russ

OK Rod, here goes.

I checked and double checked EVERY test. Meaning that I took the harness off and checked the resistence to make sure the paper clip had a good connection. A couple times I shave the wire a tiny bit and touched the wire. Either way, I think I did it right.

Pin 24 only gets 3.5 volts run, 3.25 start. ???
Pin 12 gets 12 volts run.
Pin 5 gets 2.93 volts run. Is that enough for the fuel pump to run?
Pin 18 gets 8.87 volts run.

I checked and double checked the resistence from pin 15 to battery negative and got nothing. I double checked by taking the harness off and measuring the resistence to the pin on the other side and got .6(normal)

Is this enough info to help? Could the lack of ground on 15 be causing the other readings to be off? If so, is there an easy way to fix this? Thanks so much. Your instructions have been very clear and easy to understand considering this is the first time I have used a multimeter.

Wow. I ran a wire from the paperclip on post 15 to the negative post on the battery and the car starts....Can I just cut the wire on the harness and patch in a wire to the negative terminal??? Freeking amazing Rod. Let me know what I should do.

Money spent. $155 on a new PCM. Dealer part non-refundable. $79 on a fuel filter. 15 cents on a 2 foot wire. The look on my face when it started - Priceless.

I meant $79 on a fuel PUMP. Doh.

Wow. I ran a wire from the paperclip on post 15 to the negative post on the battery and the car starts....Can I just cut the wire on the harness and patch in a wire to the negative terminal??? Freeking amazing Rod. Let me know what I should do.

Money spent. $155 on a new PCM. Dealer part non-refundable. $79 on a fuel filter. 15 cents on a 2 foot wire. The look on my face when it started - Priceless.

You are lucky John, they wanted $200 for a PCM here!

I was just looking at the connector to my PCM... The numbered connections only go up to 12. There's more than 12 wires but I'm assuming each position (number) refers to both the upper and lower wire(pair), although 7,8,9,10,11 are single wires (no pair). Are there more numbers somewhere on it or are you counting your connections differently? If not, were you able to see which is the ground by inspection?

Thanks,
Russ

The above comment refers to my 92 Taurus, that may explain the different pin numbers on the PCM. Sorry for any confusion. But John, I think our problems are essentially the same.

WOW! I clipped the wire at post 15, spliced in 2 feet of wire, added a connector and bolted it with other grounds on the frame. Runs great again!

Thanks Rod. You are the man!!! Email me at [email protected].

Russ. Look at the wiring diagrams Rod posted. There are 2 rows of connectors. The ground is black/green at 15.

Out of the frying pan, into the fire. I turned on the airconditioning and the compressor started intermittently buzzing loudly and emmitting a smoke like vapor. Is the compressor going out or did I do something in the wiring that caused this?

John

NOTE to Rod:

Just wanted to say thanks for posting those PCM wiring diagrams!

Russ

NOTE to Rod:

Just wanted to say thanks for posting those PCM wiring diagrams!

Russ

Those diagrams are not for the PCM (Powertrain Control Module), they are for the Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM). The CCRM is mounted on the radiator core support. The PCM is mounted above the glovebox and its connector is attached under the hood on the firewall. The pinout for the two is different. If you need the pinout for the PCM, let me know and I can get it posted in the next day or two.

-Rod

Rod,

My mistake...Meant to say CCRM...but would you please post the PCM diagrams as well...?... I need them.

Thanks
Russ

Out of the frying pan, into the fire. I turned on the airconditioning and the compressor started intermittently buzzing loudly and emmitting a smoke like vapor. Is the compressor going out or did I do something in the wiring that caused this?

John

Hmm, if all you did was put a good ground to the CCRM, the problem with your A/C should just be coincidence. Yes, the CCRM contains the relay for the A/C compressor clutch, but the ground wire at pin 15 just connects the clutch relay coil to ground. Sounds like you either have a bad compressor clutch or a partially seized compressor and the smoke you are seeing is a slipping belt. T

he diode shown on the diagram is just to protect the solid state relay from a voltage spike when the compressor clutch disengages. If it were bad, it still shouldn't cause what you are experiencing.

Thank you for the nice comments, I'm sorry to hear you have now having other problems. It certainly doesn't sound like anything you did though. I'll check my manual to see if they list a spec on the compressor clutch coil resistance. If the windings are shorting, the resistance will likely come back low. Yep, you're going to get your money's worth out of that DMM!

-Rod

Note to whoever with similar problem: The A/C compressor wasn't going bad. It was venting pressure due to the radiator fan not working. I checked the wiring diagram and found that pin 15 ground on the CCRM is also shared by the fan. I spliced in a ground to the fan harness and everything runs just fine again.

Rod,

RE: 1992 TAURUS 3.0L GL - CCRM TEST RESULTS

Got a DMM and started the tests today on the CCRM. Results as follows:

All tests done by back probing with CCRM connected.

pin 24 - red lead with black lead on pin 15 - run and start key position 12 Volts

pin 24 - red lead with black lead on battery neg - run and start key position 12 Volts

pin 12 - red lead with black lead on pin 15 - run and start key position 12 Volts

*pin 18 - black lead with red lead on battery positive - run position 12 Volts - start position Zero Volts!! (did this one several times)

pin 5 - red lead with black on battery negative - failed test - zero Volts at run and start position

The measured resistance from pin 15 to battery negative was just a few tenths of an ohm.

Battery tested at just above 12 Volts.

(All the above readings on start position were actually just slightly lower than 12 Volts, except pins 18 and 5, which were 0)


WHAT DO YOU THINK??
BAD CCRM??
SOMETHING ELSE??


THIS ALSO POSTED AT: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=3236618#post3236618

Note to whoever with similar problem: The A/C compressor wasn't going bad. It was venting pressure due to the radiator fan not working. I checked the wiring diagram and found that pin 15 ground on the CCRM is also shared by the fan. I spliced in a ground to the fan harness and everything runs just fine again.

CONGRATULATIONS! I bet that made your day! Good job. Doesn't it feel good to make such large accomplishments?!?

-Rod

GUESS WHAT JOHN? I GOT MINE RUNNING TOO!


Guess what? Got it running! It was that friggin EEC TEST plug (WHICH HAD BURNT OFF). Went to salvage found one off a 92 Sable, checked to see that the wire colors matched. Spliced and soldered all 10 wires! Turned the key....VROOOM!

Apperantly the PCM or CCRM will not function without the EEC TEST plug in place. Eight of the 10 wires are in like pairs (same colors) so I'm assuming those are meant to be connected through the plug. With the plug cut off...no connection!


And Rod, I couldn't of done it without your help. I know it's extremely difficult to diagnosis without seeing the car... you probably would have made the right call within minutes of seeing the engine. But your posts here and with John's Sable led me in the right directions. Thanks a million!

Russ

Hey guys!

I have the same problem on a '95 Ford Taurus. I have replaced the CCRM and the PCM. I have checked to make sure power gets back to the fuel pump (which works). I can apply power directly to the CCRM and the pump goes on. I have checked the grounds for the PCM and the CCRM. If I turn the key to the "on" position, and connect and disconnect the ground to the CCRM, the pump operates, and I can start the car until it uses up the fuel in the lines. Any ideas on why the pump doesn't work when it should?

Thanks for any help! This is driving me crazy!

Nate

Hey guys!

I have the same problem on a '95 Ford Taurus. I have replaced the CCRM and the PCM. I have checked to make sure power gets back to the fuel pump (which works). I can apply power directly to the CCRM and the pump goes on. I have checked the grounds for the PCM and the CCRM. If I turn the key to the "on" position, and connect and disconnect the ground to the CCRM, the pump operates, and I can start the car until it uses up the fuel in the lines. Any ideas on why the pump doesn't work when it should?

Thanks for any help! This is driving me crazy!

Nate

I'm don't think I'm quite following this. The fuel pump gets power and works when the CCRM is connected the way the factory did it? Or do you mean you have continuity to the fuel pump from the CCRM?

You then apply power (+12 V from battery positve?) directly to the CCRM and the fuel pump runs? Which terminals of the CCRM are you applying power to, and why if the pump works normally?

When you say you checked the grounds on the PCM and CCRM, do you mean the grounds to activate the fuel pump relay, or the actual ground to the CCRM? When you turn the key "on" which ground are you connecting, then disconnecting? The ground for the fuel pump relay, or the ground for the entire CCRM? It doesn't work with the ground wire connected, but starts working when you then disconnect the ground?

Maybe it will help me if you mention which pins of the CCRM you are grounding.

-Rod

I'm don't think I'm quite following this. The fuel pump gets power and works when the CCRM is connected the way the factory did it? Or do you mean you have continuity to the fuel pump from the CCRM?

You then apply power (+12 V from battery positve?) directly to the CCRM and the fuel pump runs? Which terminals of the CCRM are you applying power to, and why if the pump works normally?

When you say you checked the grounds on the PCM and CCRM, do you mean the grounds to activate the fuel pump relay, or the actual ground to the CCRM? When you turn the key "on" which ground are you connecting, then disconnecting? The ground for the fuel pump relay, or the ground for the entire CCRM? It doesn't work with the ground wire connected, but starts working when you then disconnect the ground?

Maybe it will help me if you mention which pins of the CCRM you are grounding.

-Rod


Rod,
Sorry for the confusion. Let's see if I can clarify...

I took the black and green wires from the CCRM (pin 15) similar to what jmoritz did to get his going, and connected them to a good ground (previously, the termination for the ground of the CCRM to the body ground was extremely corroded, so I stipped the ends, and ran a new length of wire to a cleaned up body ground.).

When the key is turned to on, if I disconnect the green and black wire from ground, then reconnect it, the fuel pump runs. The car will start, and burn whatever fuel was injected. However, it then dies.

I got another PCM and put it in, but still no luck. I was checking all the wires to the different components and found a ground that comes off the PCM and goes to body ground right below the windshield. I unbolted it and ran it to the battery ground. Still no luck. The same thing happens. The car cranks, but won't start without me "helping" it.

At this point, I was under the impression that the fuel pump relay was a part of the CCRM. Is it possible that I have the ground for just one or the other cleaned up, but I still have a bad ground?

I should mention that one of the other ground wires I stripped and re-wired was the one that controls the cooling fan, as I can disconnect and connect it in the "on" position and have it run or not.

Thanks for taking the time to read this tome of mine. When there's more light, I will go out and confirm the pin numbers on the wires from the CCRM that I have modified, just to make sure! :)

The ground at pin 15 of the CCRM is only used for the relay that provides power to the PCM and for some of the electronic devices associated with the A/C clutch and the cooling fan. By disconnecting the ground at pin 15 you are turn off the PCM, so when you connect that ground back up, the PCM is again getting power and probably causing the fuel pump to prime the system again since the key is still on.

I would suggest backprobing pin 5 of the CCRM and watching for either light or voltage when the key is turned on after sitting overnight. If the light/meter indicates voltage for a few seconds, then your CCRM is doing what it should. If not, check for ground at pin 18 after the car has been sitting for a bit and the key is turned on. This ground would be the activation for the fuel pump relay. If you get ground here, but no corresponding voltage at pin 5, then there is a problem with the CCRM. If you have ground and power on pins 18 and 5 respectively, then you might have a problem with fuel pressure.

Since you do get some fuel pressure after cycling the wire on pin 15, the fuel pump inertia switch much be closed properly. Maybe it takes a couple cycles of the fuel pump to build up sufficient pressure in the fuel rail to allow the car to start. This could be due to a bad fuel pump, corroded wires to the fuel pump, restriction in the fuel line (in tank fuel pump screen, pinched fuel line, restricted fuel filter, or leaky pressure regulator).

If all the fuel stuff checks out, then rent a noid light set from your local parts store and make sure you injectors are all getting signal.

You may also want to pull a couple of spark plugs after trying to get the car started. If they are saturated with fuel, then you probably have plenty of fuel and not enough spark/compression.

Remember, the internal combustion engine needs fuel, air, spark, and compression in the correct quantities to start.

Good luck!
-Rod

Rod,

Sorry to get back so late...Gotta pay the bills! Anyway, Thanks for the response. Now that it's not raining, I'm gonna go out and do as you suggested. That whole electrical/raining thing spooks me a bit! :)

Rod,

I thought of something else if you have the patience for it. Pin 18, where should that be grounded to? In other words, I have found that because the car is so old, everything that is supposed to be grounded has needed to be buffed and cleaned. If I were to follow pin 18's wire, where in the car would it go to ulimately end up grounded?

Thanks again! You've been VERY helpful!

I'm on business travel this week (in sunny San Diego) and do not have my service manual CD-ROMs with me. If you can wait until this weekend or early next week, I should be able to get back to you on this. If you don't see anything from me, you may want to ping me as I probably forgot.

-Rod

I'm on business travel this week (in sunny San Diego) and do not have my service manual CD-ROMs with me. If you can wait until this weekend or early next week, I should be able to get back to you on this. If you don't see anything from me, you may want to ping me as I probably forgot.

-Rod

No worries! Hope the trip goes well. I did go out and test, and discovered that if I disconnect the ground from the CCRM as well as the ground up under the windshield, when I turn the key to the on position, the pump runs continuously. If I reconnect any of those grounds, the pump won't operate.

I took a look on my CD-ROM manual and could not determine where that ground at pin 18 should go. The diagram shows the ground going straight back to the battery rather than the standard ground symbol. Often, the ground symbol will be used in the schematic diagrams, and the ground designator will be shown at that symbol. In this case, there is no such symbol or designator. Maybe it does go to a pigtail on the ground cable.

The list of grounds mentions a ground G108 on the LH side of the upper radiator support. It seems reasonable to me that, if the factory ground isn't at the battery, then this would be the next practical location for the ground.

-Rod

I know this is an old thread, but people may find their way here as I did.
I am currently woking on a Taurus that has an intermittent no start
condition (fuel pump not running). Thanks to Rod posting the CCRM schematic, I can see that all the internal relays use a common power source,
except for the EEC power relay which has a constant ground and is controlled by power 12+ from the ignition switch.
This means the relays are controlled by individual grounds that come from the EEC module. When the EEC calls for pump, fans, or ac clutch it grounds the apropriate relay which energizes it.

Pin 18 should only show ground when the EEC calls for fuel pump on
condition --- during its short prime cycle, while cranking,and while running.
If you have constant 12v+ at pins 24 and 12 and at pin 5 (pink/blk) only when pin 18 shows ground (or is grounded) then this part of the CCRM is good

Dan

Oops, you're correct. I evidently took too quick of a look at the diagram and read "15" in the fuzzy block diagram as "18."

That's a good lesson on why you need to make an effort to understand what's happening rather than just taking someone's word.

-Rod

"You are lucky John, they wanted $200 for a PCM here!" You all please help me with that. A local garage that has a farir reputation told me they can not replace a PCM because it must be programmed by Ford factory computer and if I take it to the Ford place it will run me around $1200. Is the guy blowing smoke or what? I went to Ford and they said no problem they will replace it free under the 8 year 8K mi warranty. But the guy at the other place cleared the codes and now it's running fine and Ford has to pull codes and see the PCM is bad. So, we wait for the CEL to come back on coding a PCM problem.

Anyway, wanted to know if a PCM is $200. and if it has to be programmed by Ford because if that shop told me an untruth I shall never cast a shadow on their doorway ever again.

Yes, on the newer Taurus, the PCM needs to be programmed to the car. However, in 1993, the PCM was not that smart. With the OBD-II system, the PCM must keep track of many more functions of the car to maintain proper emissions, etc. 1993 was still using OBD-I.

-Rod