2001 3.5 codes

hi guys, i have a 01 3.5 aurora, had the check engine light come on and it starts slower than usual sometin=mes. checked codes and got 4- p00713/00716/00717/0001. anybody know what these are for or know a website for me to find them. thanks for any help you can give me.

thanks for the tip tjm. i looked up codes and they are:
p0713- transmission fluid temp sensor circut high input.
p0716- input/turbine speed sensor circut performance
p0717- input/turbine speed sensor circut no signal
p0001- fuel volume regulator control circut/open.

does anybody know what these mean, and any advise on how to fix.

when you say it atarts slower than normal sometimes do you mean that it tends to crank a long time before finally firing? - like say 10 seconds?

when you say it atarts slower than normal sometimes do you mean that it tends to crank a long time before finally firing? - like say 10 seconds?

YEA TIM I'D SAY ABOUT 10 SEC IS RIGHT. THANKS, JOEL

I know the fuel pressure regulator is a common issue and an easy do it yourself on the Classics. I would start there. The other codes all relate to transmission but if you do not have any shifting issues then perhaps they are old codes that were never cleared after a previous repair.

There is a great forum at the link under my signature with a lot of knowledge on the 2nd gen. You should find more help there.

I have had 2 of the same codes on my car for over 2 years (I have an '01, 3.5 also),
P0716 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor A, CKT Range/Perf
P0717 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor A, Circuit No Signal
plus this one, P0410 Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction

I have taken my car to a tranny specialist but he said he didn't want to touch it, that I should take it to the dealer. What the hell is it??? The car jerks when it changes gears, but it doesn't do it all the time, about 50% of the times I drive it. When it is does jerk, the car usually makes a whining noise from under the hood...very annoying...makes me want to crash into a ditch.

No one seems to know what the secondary air injection malfunction is.

Does anyone have any idea what these codes are and about how much it would cost me to fix them?

I'm very skeptical about taking my car to a dealer b.c I'm a female and it pisses me off that they try to rip me off. I don't know a ton about cars but enough to know that $17 per sparkplug is outrageous.

I'm not even sure this car is worth fixing. I owe about $9500 on it, it has 143K miles and my trade in value is about $3500. On top of the problems above, I need an IAT sensor, a new track for the back window, the A/C blows hot air (needs an orifice), it uses at least a quart of oil a week, one of the front bearings is bad, I'm replacing a headlight & foglight every 2-3 months, the gas pedal sticks and to top it all off, one of the wheel caps is missing. What a nightmare!!!

taylal23,

Most cars are very nice as long as they are in good working order. If we let one or two things go then the car is still not too bad and still "nice". Over time we tend to learn to live with problems and additional ones are added and pretty soon we are driving around a piece of crap (been there, done that). This situation is especially tough to take when we still owe alotsa dough. I have to admit that the Aurora is a high maintinence car. It seems that every weekend I am out there doing something in the way of repairs or washing or anything; maybe I just Love the car... I still owe too much too if that makes you feel any better.

You will have to evaluate what the costs of repairs will be, relative to what you owe. It sounds like with all the car needs you would not get what you say it is worth. start with the simple/cheap things first to get the car to the point where you feel it is at least worth keeping.

The IAT is cheap and simple; get that one out of the way. It's the sensor in the airbox where the air filter goes and may be causing the P0410 code. This sensor is one of the things that tells the EGR valve whether or not to opperate and its malfunction may be causing a trickle down effect all the way to the other codes; lets hope so because if the turbine sensors are bad then it will likely costya. Replace the IAT sensor and then have the remaining codes cleared and cross your fingers.

The secondary air pump comes up alot with the 2nd gen Auroras. Click on the link below my signature and check out that forum or start a new thread there. There is a lot of knowledge on in that forum on the 2nd gen Auroras (I have the Classic model) and the members can give you info and termanology so you will be less apt the get "ripped off" at the shop.

Be sure to do a visual inspection too. Just look for things disconnected and the like.

Headlight/foglight - Very important that the bulb is not touched by ANYTHING. Your hands can leave a little oil behind on the bulb creating a hot spot that will cause premature failure of the halogen bulbs.

Gas pedal sticks - I assume it does not stick DOWN but only when you first step on the gas from idle, right? If this is the case then your throttle body needs to be cleaned (very common). This condition was probably exacerbated by the bad AIT sensor. You have to remove the mass airflow sensor to get to the throttle body and then it's just $10 worth of spray, a toothbrush and ½ hour.

If you don't mind getting your hands dirty then many of these things you can fix yourself. If you have the tools and equipment, we can even walk you through the wheel bearing.

Hi tjm, thanks for your reply, very informative. I'm pretty sure some of my problems are related to the existing problems...just don't have the money to put into this car like I need. It's very upsetting b.c I do like the car, the exterior and interior looks great, but under the hood is another question.

I've also incurred a new problem over the weekend, the car is running very badly, it's shakes in idle and driving, it's making a ticking noise under the car, it's lost a lot of power, I can smell gas, and now I'm afraid to drive it, so I parked it. Could this be the fuel pump or a fuel line clog?

I'm contemplating taking a loss and trading this car in. But if I can make it run somewhat normal without spending a thousand, then I'll keep it.

I put my replies in the body of your reply included below.

taylal23,

The IAT is cheap and simple; get that one out of the way. It's the sensor in the airbox where the air filter goes and may be causing the P0410 code. This sensor is one of the things that tells the EGR valve whether or not to opperate and its malfunction may be causing a trickle down effect all the way to the other codes; lets hope so because if the turbine sensors are bad then it will likely costya. Replace the IAT sensor and then have the remaining codes cleared and cross your fingers.

As far as the IAT sensor, I looked in the air filter containment and cannot see a sensor. However, there is something connected to the outside, could the connector be the sensor? I don't see on internally.

The secondary air pump comes up alot with the 2nd gen Auroras. Click on the link below my signature and check out that forum or start a new thread there. There is a lot of knowledge on in that forum on the 2nd gen Auroras (I have the Classic model) and the members can give you info and termanology so you will be less apt the get "ripped off" at the shop.
I will check this out! Thanks

Be sure to do a visual inspection too. Just look for things disconnected and the like.

Headlight/foglight - Very important that the bulb is not touched by ANYTHING. Your hands can leave a little oil behind on the bulb creating a hot spot that will cause premature failure of the halogen bulbs.
I am always very careful to not touch the bulbs. I think there is an electrical short somewhere b.c the lights fluctuate btwn brighter and dimmer when I am driving.

Gas pedal sticks - I assume it does not stick DOWN but only when you first step on the gas from idle, right? If this is the case then your throttle body needs to be cleaned (very common). This condition was probably exacerbated by the bad AIT sensor. You have to remove the mass airflow sensor to get to the throttle body and then it's just $10 worth of spray, a toothbrush and ½ hour.
Yes, the pedal sticks when I first step on the gas. I'll cleaning the throttle body, but I'd need a picture to know what the mass airflow sensor is. Maybe, a mechanic will point it out to me or I'll just pay the $60 to have it done.

If you don't mind getting your hands dirty then many of these things you can fix yourself. If you have the tools and equipment, we can even walk you through the wheel bearing.
I'm willing to get my hands dirty if it will save me money and is a relatively simple job.

Sounds like the bad running may be the fault of a bad fuel pressure regulator - check here
http://www.howardm.net/dred98/fpr.php

if you have a wire going to the air box then that's the IAT; check here
http://www.howardm.net/dred98/airboxmod.php
the third pic down calls the part an Air Temp Sensor

The first pic shows the black flex tube going from the air box into the black Mass Airflow Sensor on the engine. The MAF sensor is attached to the Throttle body (the first aluminum part on the engine). the MAF must be removed to clean the throttle body.

Lights will normally change in brilliance when going from idle to higher RPMs but it should not really happen randomely. If it happens at randome the use your "Drivers Information Center" to check your alternator voltage by hitting the "engine" button. The voltage should be lower than 16 and higher than 10 volts. If it is outside of these perameters for more than 5 seconds then this may be causing your Turbine sensor codes as well and the alternator may be the culprit of all of your issues. If the voltage seems relatively steady then check all ground connections; any wire attached to the frame or body should be tightened.

And if you are really handy - here's the wheel bearing
http://aurorah.proboards47.com/index.cgi?board=Gen&action=display&thread=1111436154

WOW! I've never had anyone give me such detailed instructions, including pics! I am definitely going to give this is a try myself (my sister & I, she happens to be very handy at this stuff)! Thank you so much for your help!!!! I'll let you know how it turns out.

Here is a GREAT link for the throttle body procedure
http://aurorah.proboards47.com/index.cgi?board=1stgen&action=display&thread=1121714117

Hi tjm,

I took my car to the shop; the more it was driven, the worse it was getting. So it turns out that two of my ignition coils were bad...$550 job. The mechanic replaces them and calls me to tell me something else is wrong b.c it burnt them out again as soon as they started the car. He calls me back about 40 minutes later to tell me a wire had come loose and was touching something, grounding out the coils. How crazy!! (You did tell me to check for loose wires). The car is running as normal as it ever has, which means it still has codes for the secondary air injection and 2 for the input speed sensor. But it's running okay and much smoother.

I also asked about the A/C b.c it just blows hot air and he told me he it would cost $125 just to see where the leak is, now that is crazy!!!! especially when I know that stuff only costs about $5-$6 a can. I told him not to touch it. I think I'll try it myself.

Thanks for all your help with this!

GREAT! - That's one down.

The reason for the $125 is because they have to fill the system (with added dye) and use a probe and/or special light to find the leak. If a leak is found then they have to evacuate the system to replace parts.

What you can do is go around the engine compartment and try to tighten up all the AC fittings and hoses to see if maybe a loose hose leaked out all the refrigerant. I have seen 2 places on my Classic where the hoses were being abraided by something else rubbing on them. If I hadn't seen it and adjusted the culprits I would have had to replace hoses and refrigerant.

If you keep pluggin' away at these issues you will fall in love with the car all over again.

It's great when you can do things yourself but note when you do need a pro that you may have the best luck at a Caddie dealer for repairs. The Aurora is a Caddie drivetrain on a Caddie chassis. The Chevy dealers in my area don't have a clue about this car. They can do the work but they may as well be working on the space shuttle.

Re-read previous posts regarding your remaining codes.