Start!!! you stupid CAR!!!

95 jetta 2.0L 5 spd. Car has always been a pain - if it didn't start the first time, usually did the second, but I always had to turn hard on the key to get it to start - if not, it just cranked and cranked. Now it sounds different when it's turning over. There is no spark and the fuel pump doesn't stay on for more than a split second when key is turned on. I jumpered the fuel pump relay and I hear the fuel pump buzz and I checked the red/white wire at the pump connector and I see 12v. If I put the relay back in and turn key on, there is no volts on red/white wire, but 4.5v on the purple/blk wire. Pump is not working with relay in fuse block, but relay checks out good. Plus there is no power to the coil. What could possibly control both fuel and spark to this engine? The car cranks fine, so does that rule out my ignition switch or does that send power to the coil also. I'm willing to replace it, but I wish I knew what signals it sent out so I wasn't "easter egging" this problem. Thanks for any input.

Ok - so I put a jumper wire in the fuel pump relay slot to see if I got 12 volts to fuse 18 like boschmann suggests. 12v is on the right side of the relay slot (horizontal one I believe) and I have continuity from fuse 18 to that slot so I figure it's good. BUT, when I put the jumper in slot 4 and 6 of the relay my starter engages! The key is in the 'on' position. I also checked for 12v at the coil and at the distributor (outter 2 wires). I have 12v at the coil connector, but only 4.5 - 5v at the distributor connector. My fuel pump still doesn't have any power. All the relays click, a couple click on then right off, and no fuses are blown - although a couple don't have any power when key is on. Should the fuel pump relay slot kick the starter over when jumpered deep enough??? I didn't think so. If I separate my fuse block I will probably have to break those little clips because I don't see how I could get it apart any other way. At lease that way I'd be able to see if something is broken. Since the 'check engine' light is on when the key is on, does that mean my ECU is good, or should I still suspect it? Sorry this is very technical and confusing but I'm not gonna let this thing kick my butt.

Well eventhough nobody has replied, it helps getting my thoughts out even if it's only me listening. I cleaned up some ground terminals in the front of the engine block thinking that may be it - nope. So I looked closer at the fuse box. I found that I have 12v on one side of my fuel pump relay (slot 6?) and ground on the other (slot 4). Slot 4 is shorted to another slot below it, but it nothing on the relay plugs into it. Key on or off, I don't get 12v to fuse 18. Pulled the fuse and found the top of fuse 18 slot is shorted to slot 4 on my fuel pump relay. Is that's supposed to be? That being the case, when I turn the key and apply power to the f/p relay (It clicks on then right off) I think it's being shorted out (i.e. relay being opened again) because one side of fuse 18 is tied to ground somehow. Does that make any sense? That would cause my fuel pump not to run, but I still don't know why I'm not getting spark. At least I don't think I am. I only have 5v between the distributor connector's outter 2 wires. I cleaned up the cap and checked that my distributor hadn't moved and timing belt hadn't skipped - all's good. Plug wires are good and coil has been replaced. I'm thinking my problem is in the fuse box or a wire is chaffed and grounded somewhere, but I have no idea how a fuse box goes bad??? Still listening incase anyone wants to jump in and shut me up.

Well I pulled apart the fuse box - nothing amis there. Hard to believe one could ever go bad. Just a bunch of bent metal prongs that are plastic rivetted in place. Oh well. My attention has now shifted to the ECM. I got the p/n off it and will be looking for a replacement. If that doesn't fix it then I guess that car is gonna turn into a tax write off cuz I'm gonna get rid of it even if I have to give it away. Learned my lesson, don't buy an European car made in mexico and sold in the US. It's been for sale for a week and it quit working the day the add posted - gotta love that stuff. If anybody thinks they can fix this thing I'm getting rid of it REAL cheap.

I replaced the distributor(hall sensor) $80 and ECM $90, checked the coil, the engine speed sensor, the fuse box, fuel pump, all relays/fuses and wires. Found 1 chewed up wire at the ECM - repaired that, then finally had a competent garage replace the ignition switch $360. Garage couldn't get it started after that so I had it towed back home. Messed around with the alarm/door lock for a minute and it fired right up! Could have been the ignition switch the whole time or the ECM went bye-bye the same time the ign switch went, but either way it's running now. Man am I happy - now I can sell it!!! There has been a lot of helpful info put out on this site and I thank all of you for it. Regards,
Matt