The Penguin's viscous adventure

Well my viscous coupler arrived yesterday, so I thought I'd spend much of the weekend under my '95 Limited.
I'm no mechanic by any means, but I have been known to replace a starter outdoors at -30 degrees :) I'm a better photographer than mechanic, so I'll post some shots of the VC swap, and innards of the TC when I split it to fix a leak.

I'll be dropping the TC, as I have a leak to fix as well.
So far the things I thought would be hard, went fairly well (dropping the driveshafts) and the easy stuff has been a pain (draining the TC, removing the skid plate) Seems some ape really cranked in the drain plug and I don't have the correct wrench What is it, 30mm? and one of the skid plate bolts just spins, but doesn't do anything. Luckily the other 2 came out and I just rotated the plate out of my way.
Tomorrow, after purchasing a big-a** wrench for the drain plug, and a deep socket for that $&*%ing top nut, I hope to get the TC out.

Couple of dumb questions:

1) How do you disconnect the shift linkage? There's a plastic insert thingy, I didn't want to force it.

2) The leak is coming from the front output shaft, is that seal a big job to replace?
Stay tuned for more :)

has any one had problems with the AC on 2002 Jeep Limted more on oneside blows ok cool air and the other side warm? Please help

has any one had problems with the AC on 2002 Jeep Limted more on oneside blows ok cool air and the other side warm? Please help

Glad to see ya here and asking questions "debtat52".

You for sure will get more help if you post your question under a new topic. People reading this topic are expecting to read about viscous couplers rather than A/C problems.

Being a "newbie" can be confusing but go to the grand cherokee forum where you found this topic and there will be a "post new thread" link (near the bottom of the page I think).

I'm sure that some one will respond.:smile:

JD

Update:

Can't get the !*&$ing top nut off. I can't get a socket on it squarely, while using a u joint and extensions. Gonna call a mechanic friend of mine who owes me a favor. He's probably got better tools, and experience. I'm afraid of stripping it.

Only other issue is how to disconnect the linkage...
Anyone?

I just slid mine apart at the adjustment bracket.

Well today was much better.
My friend who owed a favor dropped by, with a good assortment of tools. He tried several methods and was unable to get that top nut loose. So we put a jack under the tranny, removed the crossmember, and let the tranny down a bit. That made a big difference and he was able to get the nut off. We dropped the Tcase (ugh what a mess, we never did get the drain plug out) and putting in the VC was pretty easy, though getting the housing off was a bear.
The good news:
The front output seal is done from the outside, so don't have to split the TC. We got the yoke nut off (man THAT's on tight) and pulled the seal out.

The bad news:
The yoke is quite scored where it rides on the seal, so I'll be replacing it as well.
We replaced the VC, sealed it up, and put the TC back in. I just need to replace the seal, the yoke, bolt up the front shaft and add some fluid.

The other bad news:
We were going so fast, I forgot to take photos :uhoh:
Sorry.

Lessons learned:

My tools suck. Well the ones I HAVE are ok, but I'm, lacking many.

The TC is heavier than I expected.

I shouldn't quit my day job, and become a mechanic :) though I figure the dealer would have charged at least $2000 for the job. I'm into it for $650 or so (VC, tools, beer, 650 Canadian, the VC at $427 US plus shipping, taxes comes to $600ish CDN) and whatever the yoke and seal will cost.

Just finished changing my VC also. biggest problem I had was trying to get the TC back on the tranny. Damn is it heavy! had to block it up with wood blocks then final adjustment with jacks. sems to be working OK and no leaks. Only had to change rear oil seal.

Well I'm almost done...
Got the front output seal yesterday, and got it installed tonight.
Couldn't get a yoke, other than for $150.00 and 12 days delivery, so I'll put the old one back, that will likely shorten the life of the seal a bit, but screw it. Got the yoke bolted back on, front driveshaft in, and fluid added to the TC.

So now I have one annoying problem. The #%&@ing bolts for the skid plate won't snug up. the threaded captive nuts inside the crossmember spin, and there doesn't seem to be an easy way to fix that.
I'm sure there's some technique a "real" mechanic would use.

Anyone have any suggestions??

Hey Penguin!!!

On that Yoke seal surface, Get a speedie sleeve from the parts store. Just take the yoke in and they will measure it up for you... It's a thin sleeve that covers the worn groove and you can use the yoke over - cheeper too.

JD

The_Penguin,


I had this same problem happen to me, the nut broke loose inside the frame. Well the only fix I found was cutting a hole in the side of the frame rail and rewelding the nut onto the frame.

The_Penguin,


I had this same problem happen to me, the nut broke loose inside the frame. Well the only fix I found was cutting a hole in the side of the frame rail and rewelding the nut onto the frame.

Thanks for the tip. I may have to visit my brother-in-law, he's a welder.
In the mean time the bolts are in well enough for a test-drive, just need a bit more tranny fluid in the tranny, and the front U-joint is rubbing on the TC shift linkage arm, have to crawl under and bend it back a bit.
This has been a PITA, as I haven't done any mechanical work in a long time... but is saving me a ton of $$$

Hey Penguin!!!

On that Yoke seal surface, Get a speedie sleeve from the parts store. Just take the yoke in and they will measure it up for you... It's a thin sleeve that covers the worn groove and you can use the yoke over - cheeper too.

JD

Great idea! I had heard about them but assumed I'd need a hydraulic press. I had alook at http://www.durasleeve.com/ looks pretty cool.

Since it's already re-assembled, I'm going to leave it.

Well there's still a slight scraping sound, could be the U-joint rubbing on the shift linkage. I did try to bend it out further, maybe not enough.
It could be some crap that fell into something (brakes?) while doing all this work. Gess I'll visit a shop with a hoist, to safely see what's up under there.

Had to remove the skid plate again to do that, so I decided to take it right off. That third bolt still just spun, not the 2 on the crossmember but the third on the "frame" So I applied a lot of downward pressure on the plate while ratcheting the bolt. Finally it came off. The nut ripped right out of the "frame" GRRRR!!!