oxygen sensor wire

I can't get rid of the code 1. I swore that this time I pulled back the harness cover far enough to make a solid connection in the O2 sensor circuit and I drove around with no put put between 3k-4k rpms... I know that tripping the code will cause the car to run rich. It's really pissing me off. Maybe the sensor is bad. But why would it work for awhile and then all of a sudden trip the code again?

If I remove the soldered in T for the "light show" ie. A/F gauge and run a clean protected wire (say like one of those heavily protected speaker wires), from C16 at the ECU straight to the O2 sensor at the collector part of my header avoiding all that wiring loom would it make a difference?

I'd ditch the A/F guage for starters, your just weekening the signal to the ecu when you split it. Theres really not much interference thats going to effect o2 sensors. They are fickle in that they will work for a while then you'll get random not working, then random working, then it can clear up for a while and work then stop again. If you just want to do a one time fix and be done with it I'd do what you said and just run a new wire. Also your header will get hotter than your factory manifold so its smart to pick up some high temp wire loom to protect the part thats close to the exhaust.

I guess I'll ditch the gauge. The wire from the harness was sitting right next to my hoses. I peelded it back a good bit near the other subharness to the fuel injectors and it's just clutter with A/F gauge slack then straight to the collector on the header near the cat. I may even get a new sensor.

Removed A/F gauge... code 1 not present for the first time ever after driving over 60 miles. Hooray! The manual says the tank is 11.9 gallons and I usually use about 9 gallons for 300-350 miles. I wonder if my mpg will be even better...

WTF do they sell shit that fucks your car up?

Well AF gauges really arnt ment to be (usefully) used with regular o2 sensors, but most dont tell you that. All they want to do is sell the product.