some sort of internal leak?

Ok, to start off, I did a search for this symptom and found nothing. Basically, I have an internal oil leak I believe. I have oil on my spark plugs, and just changed the plugs to see if it would change anything... Nothing happened. Also my gas mileage has gone downt he crapper... I replaced the plugs with delco ones. If anyone knows what may be causing this, I will appreciate it very much

rings or valve seals. does it smoke all the time or only at start up? does it smoke at all ?

it seems to smoke mostly at start up, and putters while idling

What year of truck?

What maintanence have you ever done?

Is the smoke black or blue?

Its a 92 blazer 4wd, I have kept it up to date on all mantenances. Like I just said, I replaced the plugs and gave it a tune up myself. Previously I had an alternator go bad, and had to replace a seal that goes to the remote oil installation under the truck. The smoke is more of a blackis whitish smoke

What did this tuneup include?

included changing the spark plugs, changing the oil and the filter. checked the transmission fluid to make sure it was good. Pretty basic

also, I was having problems before I did the tune up. That is why I changed the spark plugs, because I was having some idling problems

What about:

1.) the fuel filter
2.) Air Filter
3.) PCV valve
4.) Timing check and adjustment.
5.) Distributor Cap & Rotor

Also, what gap did you gap the plugs to?

well, I gapped the plugs to .o45 like the guy at autozone told me to gap them at, and I have checked any of those other filters, but even if I do change those would those affect the fact that their is an internal leak?

also I know the air filter is good. the internal leak appears to be some kind of oil on the spark plugs I replaced

The oil could have come from when you were removing the plugs and there was some oil in the plug holes in the block.

Did you do any of the other stuff I told you to replace ever?

A tuneup is not just plugs and an oil change.

no sir, I have not tried the other stuff before, mainly because I dont know how, do you think it could be easy to learn

another thing I noticed is maybe the plug was not burning correctly. The top part of the plug where the prong is was white, but the rest of the part where it screws into the engine was black and had oil on it

also by timing check, do you mean the serpintine belt, It seems good to me

another thing I noticed is maybe the plug was not burning correctly. The top part of the plug where the prong is was white, but the rest of the part where it screws into the engine was black and had oil on it

It had oil on it because you probably have a slightly leaking valve cover gasket or gaskets that are allowing a small amount of oil to leak into the plug locations on the outside of the block.

You need to replace the cap and rotor for starters and replace the fuel filter, replace the PCV valve and get the timing checked.

ok I will try that first thing tomorrow

any references on changing the distributor cap and fuel filter? I am not a professional, but I am a quick learner...

just making sure I am not being ignored

I just replaced the pcv valve. The one that was it it was not bad, since I was able to shake it around and it rattled... But I did notice a slight performance gain, but it may have just been a placebo affect. How long after you change the pcv valve should it take for me to notice a difference. I just bought the distributor cap and rotor as well. As far as the fuel filter goes, I have no idea how to install it

Have a shop[ install the fuel filter if you don't know. It won't cost much if you bring the filter.

Also, the cap and rotor will probably net some gains.

Just make sure you take the wires off the old one ONE AT A TIME and place the connections on the new cap.

I REPEAT , DO NOT JUST START YANKING THE WIRES OFF.

just changed the distributor and the rotor that goes with it, no performance gain was noticed. I also think it must have been changed earlier because the parts looked new still. I also noticed today that as I accelerate the fuel level drops really quick, then when I stop, it goes back up

That is normal, it is just the fuel moving around in the tank.

You should get the timing checked and the fuel filter replaced.

ok, I am leaving town for a few days, I will get that worked on as soon as I get back. As far as the fuel filter is concerned, do you think I would be able to do it. I feel that I could if I knew where it was

Is your 2 door or 4 door?

Either way I think it is on the inside of the driver's side fram mid way back.

It is a 4 door with 4wd

do I have to take apart the tank to get to it, or would be exposed like the air and oil filters are

do I have to take apart the tank to get to it, or would be exposed like the air and oil filters are

Its exposed bolted to the frame rail. Just follow the fuel lines til you see it. Really can't miss it, fuel lines run into each end of it.

cool thanks, I will do it first thing tomorrow morning. Also, what do you mean by timing blazerlt.

cool thanks, I will do it first thing tomorrow morning. Also, what do you mean by timing blazerlt.

You ignition timing, you have to see if it is not retarded or advanced.

This should be left up to a shop.

ok, any shops you have in mind, or just any generic one you think?

basically what it feels like to me is the car is getting over saturated with fuel

Yea, could be the timing.

The local shop should be able to set it for you.

Just tell them to disconnect the timing wire when timing the vehicle.

The timing wire is a brown and beige wire running under the carpet behind the glove box in the cab.

okie dookie, I really appreciate all your help, I will go to the shop and change the fuel filter and then see what happens next

well, I just got back in town, and took it into my mechanic, and he said this vehicle has the timing stored on the computer, and shouldnt be messed with once it is set... What should I do, also any ideas of what could be causing the oil to be on my spark plugs...

well, I just got back in town, and took it into my mechanic, and he said this vehicle has the timing stored on the computer, and shouldnt be messed with once it is set... What should I do, also any ideas of what could be causing the oil to be on my spark plugs...

Take it to another mechanic. Your mechanic doesn't know what he is talking about.

The base timing needs to be set properly with the timing wire disconnected from the PCM under the dash.

Also, is the oil on the threads of the spark plug?

also, I have noticed a leak of fluid, maybe coolant in the inside of the truck, where the dirver and passanger's feet should rest. from what it looks like what i have seen on the forums, it has something to do with the heating core. Could this be giving me poor gas mileage?

Read my previous post.

Also, yes, your heater core is bad and needs to be replaced.

Also, it depend on where the temperature of the truck is on the dash when the truck is completely warm.

It should be really close to 210.

yes, it appears to be oil on the spark plugs' threads

the temperature stays around 210

You have leaking valve cover gaskets.

Easy to replace.

how long would you suppose that would take me to replace? and are they located in the main block?

how long would you suppose that would take me to replace? and are they located in the main block?

No offense bro, but if you don't know where valve cover gaskets are, I wouldn't attempt it yourself.

The valve covers are the covers over the driver and passenger side heads.

how long does it take you to change them typically? and no offense was taken, I am trying my best to learn stuff about my car, and I have a haynes manual

Shouldn't take more than 2 hours if you really take your time.

You will need a torque wrench so you can tighten the valve cover bolts up properly without going to far and squashing the gasket.

okie dokie, the haynes book says I need a torx 30, should I need any kind of sealant too?

Check your haynes manual, it should tell you.

ok, I will do it first thing in the morning, it is dark now, thanks for your help blazerLT, I will let you know how it goes...

well, I just changed both gaskets, it took me about 3 1/2 hrs. but it was my first time doing something like that. as far as I could see, thier was no oil leaking any where that could have gotten to the spark plugs. but I havent driven the truck yet, so I will let you know how it runs. any other suggestions on where the oil could be coming from? thanks BlazerLT

That is only the real place it could come from.

The oil seeps out the gasket and goes into the spark plug area and when you remove the plugs the threads are dragged throgh the trapped oil which coats the threads.

do you think I should put new plugs in then, to fix the problem, their are no visible leaks... also do you think it might have been coolant on the plugs instead of oil? although it really looked like oil, once the coolant is burnt maybe it looks like oil...

White ash deposits on the plugs is coolant.

Liten to me, liquid oil is not from inside the engine.

ok dude, I just broke my spark plug #3, this thing is being a turd to install, any suggestions on an easy way to install it. (note: I havent replaced the plugs yet, was just checking for oil on them. and the problem seems to be gone now) as far as I can tell, their is no more oil on my plugs balzerlt, thanks alot!!!

ok dude, I just broke my spark plug #3, this thing is being a turd to install, any suggestions on an easy way to install it. (note: I havent replaced the plugs yet, was just checking for oil on them. and the problem seems to be gone now) as far as I can tell, their is no more oil on my plugs balzerlt, thanks alot!!!

No problem, be careful with #3, it is a bitch.

tomorrow morning I will install that #3, and then call around for a timing adjustment. if timing doesnt fix my fuel economy, what do you think will?

I lucked out and shopped around for the shortest possible plug socket that had a magnet for holding the plug. It *just* fits over the plug properly behind the steering column, and then putting a 20 degree, 6" wobble extention on it, then a 12" standard extension on the back of that, I can yank and put back in #3 spark plugs all day. (Through the wheel well that is) The other solution is to use a screwdriver to split the plastic boot over the steering gear near the driver's side nose of the truck. Remove the bolt within and then push the steering column up, back, and to the side and you can fit a plug socket and a ratchet directly from the top of the engine compartment. I never got up the courage to drop the steering gear, but the wobble extension and carrying a spark plug with me to various tool shops found me the shortest possible socket to do the job well. Good luck. :D Doing the plugs on a second generation and later Blazer is no small feat!

Edit: This just came to mind, and may prove to be helpful. Bosch Platinum plugs do not do well in our engines. However, a plain Copper resitor "Bosch Super" plug specified for our length and heat range needed to keep the 4.3 happy is a full 1/4" shorter than the standard AC-Delco replacement part. The 1/4" inch clearance makes all the difference of getting the plug in and out around the #3 hole rather easily. Though a different plug in one side of the engine will not make a difference if it is speced properly, I agree with BlazerLT on this - don't change one, change them all. Oh, and make sure to gap to .045" before installation.

If you replace one plug, you replace ALL the plugs.

even if they are all the same kind, and I changed them last week?

Oh, no, you should be just fine, IMO. If there was say, 10,000 miles on the plugs and you needed to change only one of them, then yeah, I would change them all.

ps, if I do decide to use the bosch one would I need to change them all?