Runs Like in 7 Cilinders

I have this 1994 grand marquis with 4.6 L engine. About a Week ago felt a drop o power, like a lost of a spark plug.

This weekend I chenged the fuel filter, sprak plugs and I still had the problem. When a was checking the spark plugs again I noticed that the Spark on the Coil Pack on the driver side, the 2 conector for the No. 2 and No. 8 cilinder was not as vivid as the other 2.

So Yesterday I changed the Coil Pack for a new one with the same results.

After re-checking all the cilinders, I felt like the No.2 cilinder is the one that seems to be the one with lack of power.

After that I swap the No. 2 and No. 3 injectors and plugs just to make sure thay are OK, then cheked the compresion on all cilinders and they are around 150 PSI.

At the end of the day and all this work done, I still have the same problem.

I have one word for you guys.

H E L P !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks

Sounds like it's not getting the voltage to fire the plug. How are your spark plug wires?

Sounds like it's not getting the voltage to fire the plug. How are your spark plug wires?

Fred:

Thanks for reply.

I changed the wire for new ones made by Bosch.

Problem solved.

My previous owner have it isntall some p.o.s. wires.

I Still need to check the EGR valve.

Thanks again

:thumbsup:

If you have any more problems get Motorcraft wires. If you did not put dielectric grease in the boots take them loose and do it now. When it rains water can pool in the plug wells and that is why you need the grease. Also makes it easier to get them off when it is time to change plugs

whats wrong with your egr?

whats wrong with your egr?

The check engine goes on, I have this code tester and it shows this code for "No EGR flow present".

I need to take off to check if it's stuck or something.

Some time the engine knocks under acceleration, and then the light goes on.

I'm using 86 fuel and the temp is normal, so I think that the EGR is not opening when it should.

The check engine goes on, I have this code tester and it shows this code for "No EGR flow present".

I need to take off to check if it's stuck or something.

Some time the engine knocks under acceleration, and then the light goes on.

I'm using 86 fuel and the temp is normal, so I think that the EGR is not opening when it should.

This engine is famous for clogged EGR Passages in the intake. Remove the elbow that your throttle body is attached to from the intake and look under the gasket - there is a horseshoe shaped passage there that is full of guck. shopvac the guck out and push a rod down the passages to the egr valve. this is so common on these engines that the EGR valve itself is rarely the culprit.

try useing a tiny flat bladed screw driver also to clean them out i did this and noticed a really big differnce in idle and a lil performance also try some carb and choke cleaner if it gets hard to remove also order a new gasket for were the elbow meets the manifold

try useing a tiny flat bladed screw driver also to clean them out i did this and noticed a really big differnce in idle and a lil performance also try some carb and choke cleaner if it gets hard to remove also order a new gasket for were the elbow meets the manifold


Thanks for the hint guys.

Finally I had the chance to dive into de elbow and I did what you told me, you were right, that horse shoe shape pipe was clogged. Looks like the problem is gone.

The odd thing here is that the I saw no gasket on the elbow - manifold joint and it's running fine.

Thanks for the hint guys.

Finally I had the chance to dive into de elbow and I did what you told me, you were right, that horse shoe shape pipe was clogged. Looks like the problem is gone.

The odd thing here is that the I saw no gasket on the elbow - manifold joint and it's running fine.

Are you sure that the gasket was not stuck to the elbow? If not, then you better get one from the dealer - they are only 3 bucks and most dealers stock them because this problem is so common. Otherwise you are headed for a vacuum leak which will cause all kinds of driveability concerns and false check engine lights.

if its the horse shoe linr i think ur talking about then its the line to the idle air control moter

if its the horse shoe linr i think ur talking about then its the line to the idle air control moter

Noup, It's actually the passage that is under the throttle elbow.

Thanks for the hint again.

Are you sure that the gasket was not stuck to the elbow? If not, then you better get one from the dealer - they are only 3 bucks and most dealers stock them because this problem is so common. Otherwise you are headed for a vacuum leak which will cause all kinds of driveability concerns and false check engine lights.

At this time the car is running OK, no check engine light so far.

I clean both surfaces very well before re-installation.

Anyhow, at the first chance I will install that gasket.

Thanks again

Hi, I think I'm having the same problem. Can someone explain where and what I'm supposed to be replacing/cleaning? Any detail or information on how to proceed would be very appreciated. Thanks in advance.

This engine is famous for clogged EGR Passages in the intake. Remove the elbow that your throttle body is attached to from the intake and look under the gasket - there is a horseshoe shaped passage there that is full of guck. shopvac the guck out and push a rod down the passages to the egr valve. this is so common on these engines that the EGR valve itself is rarely the culprit.
From above post!

Hi, I think I'm having the same problem. Can someone explain where and what I'm supposed to be replacing/cleaning? Any detail or information on how to proceed would be very appreciated. Thanks in advance.

If it's the EGR. Remove the air filter elbow

1.- Disconect TPS and Throttle linkage from the body.
2.- Disconect the vacuum hose from EGR Valve.
3.- There are 2 bolts to unscrew holding a plate for the EGR sensor and control valve.
4.- There are 4 bolts to unscrew holding the throttle elbow against the intake manifold.
5.- Lift the elbow straigt up, watch the gasket for damage.
6.- There is a horse shoe shape passage with 3 oppenings that gets clogged with smoke.
7.- Clean the passage with a small screw driver and choke cleaner.
(Use a rag to block the intake).
8.- Use a small hose to creat vacuum on the EGR and get it open; this will help you drain de choke cleaner, and check the EGR at the same time. If the cleaner won't drain the EGR is damaged.
9.- When you feel everything it's clean and OK, Reverse for installation.

To change the EGR if it's bad, you must disconet the pipe from the exhaust and 2 bolts from the EGR to the intake manifold.

I'd like to do the same job, but I just came out from under the car and I can't even FIND the EGR! Is this supposed to be done from the top of the engine??? Can someone please explain how to get access to the EGR valve???

Also, I would first like to clean the MAF sensor. Got stuck on step 1. It's secured in with these "tamper-proof" torx screws. I checked 3 different strores in town, no-one has even heard of these! Anyone know where I can get a #20?

Thanks for any help guys!

WBS

I'd like to do the same job, but I just came out from under the car and I can't even FIND the EGR! Is this supposed to be done from the top of the engine??? Can someone please explain how to get access to the EGR valve???



WBS
Yes, it is done from the top. The egr is bolted to the back of the intake. You will have to move some other small stuff to get to it. It is a little like building a ship in a bottle blindfolded. If you look toward the back of your intake you will see the elbow you need to remove. Unless you are sure your egr is bad leave it alone. The clogs happen under the elbow usually

I have not clean my MAF sensor yet, I think you can spray it with choke cleaner also.

To you can get to the EGR both top and bottom.

The job that I decribed you is done from the Top.

To get to the EGR from the bottom you must raised the car on the passanger side, loose 1 of the 2 connectors on the exhaust pipe and the 2 bolts that hold the EGR to the Intake manifold.

Good luck !!!!!!!!!!

Yes, it is done from the top. The egr is bolted to the back of the intake. You will have to move some other small stuff to get to it.

Thanks, I'll give it a go in the morning.

WBS

Would the same issue occur on a 2000 model? I get sputtering and jerking from 40 to about 55 miles per hour.

Would the same issue occur on a 2000 model? I get sputtering and jerking from 40 to about 55 miles per hour.

If you feel like the transmition goes from OD to 3rd back and fort.

There is a position sensor installed on the shift linkage that tells the computer the actual shift position. When it fails tent to do the up and down shifting.

Have a Trans. chop check it.

I hope this helps you.

How expensive is the replacement of the transmission sensor?

I do not know how mutch will cost, I got mine as a freebe from a transmition shop where a got my wife's Winstar fixed.

I don't think will cost more than $50

I talked to a transmission guy and he thought it could be 1 of 2 things: plug wires or the torque converter. Thoughts?

Kool

Wires are around $85 bucks

Torque a lot more.

Question: Have you check the codes?

No, he wants to drive it in the morning. He claims that the torque convertor is also a common problem.

Can some local parts stores pull codes?

You can go to any Auto Zone, they can scan your car for free.

They a tool to test and scan your car, also they have the possible causes for every code

They have a tool to scan your car, ....

Sorry

Greetings,

Is there an equivalent "elbow" that needs to be cleaned in the '91 5.0L engine??? All I see is the EGR Valve Spacer on the engine and also shown in the Shop Manual exploded view drawing(item #67).

Thanks for your reply.

Art G.

The transmission guy drove it today and says it is definitely the spark plug wires. The auto shop next door also indicated that they have seen issues with the coil as well.

Greetings,

Is there an equivalent "elbow" that needs to be cleaned in the '91 5.0L engine??? All I see is the EGR Valve Spacer on the engine and also shown in the Shop Manual exploded view drawing(item #67).

Thanks for your reply.

Art G.

I don't think so, the intake manifold has different configuration.

Throttle and EGR are almost one next to the other.

You can easy spot the throttle & EGR valve on the passanger side of the engine compartment.

Cleaning or changing the EGR valve, shouldn't be that hard.

Thanks...Jesus 058...for advising of the different input air configuration for the 5.0L. I was able to clean some of the carbon from the ports going to the EGR valve and the valve itself on my 5.0L.

Take care.

Art G.

Thanks...Jesus 058...for advising of the different input air configuration for the 5.0L. I was able to clean some of the carbon from the ports going to the EGR valve and the valve itself on my 5.0L.

Take care.

Art G.

KOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

GLAD TO HELP.