98 Rotors

I found this forum today and already have solved 2 problems1 Wahoo!!!

2 questions-

1) My rotors are needing to be replace after 18K (80% city driving and no towing). Is this normal?

2) Any suggestions on upgrading to a longer lasting rotor?

This is normal for the ½ ton as far as pads go. In town driving and 4th gear there is no hold back from your engine. Its like free wheeling and with the weight of the Suburban you will go through brake pads. The rotors should be good for about 3 or 4 turning (45,000 miles) unless they are cheep after market type. You can get more out of NAPA life time ones but they really cut up the disks. Dave

I found this forum today and already have solved 2 problems1 Wahoo!!!

2 questions-

1) My rotors are needing to be replace after 18K (80% city driving and no towing). Is this normal?

2) Any suggestions on upgrading to a longer lasting rotor?

Are your rotors worn to the point that that can't be turned out, or have they warped after the 18K miles?

My 99 burb likes to warp the rotors as well. It's a combination of undersized braking components and crappy rear drum brakes that don't self adjust as they should. This last go around I had the rotors turned and tried the more expensive ceramic pads. Although they like to squeak from time to time it seems to have helped. My wheels also stay cleaner. The rear brakes are supposed to adjust when you apply the parking brake but I've started checking mine regularly and adjusting them as needed. It has really cut down on my brake pad changes.

I had years of trouble with wraping rotors while I was using ceramic pads. I'm curious if you have found a particular ceramic pad that doesn't cause this?

I finally gave up on the ceramics and started using Raybestos semi-metallic pads. The problem with warping has gone away, but these pads are much more prone to noise.

Are your rotors worn to the point that that can't be turned out, or have they warped after the 18K miles?
These are worn to the point they can't be turned after 18K.