1990 3.1L Lumina - My Problems

Well, for starters... i'm new to the forums. This is my first post.

I have a 1990 3.1L with 118k miles on it. I got it with 90kmiles, from my grandmother for like 500.00 dollars.

I've since done the following to it:
Rebuilt tranny, new catalytic converter, new rear calipers.

three weeks ago, i started having serious trouble with it. The engine would jerk, and it was running real rough. Finally, it stalled out on me.... and wouldnt start.

I've since changed out the following parts:

O2 sensor, MAP, IAC, TPS, PCV valve, PCV hose, all three ignition coils, ignition module, all 6 spark plugs, all spark plug wires, a new system computer, replaced all the wire loom, which was dry rotted, replaced the ECM ground lead, throughout the entire car... which had a short in it.

And then i made the car re-learn idle. The car is stalling when you give it gas... which leads me to believe that the timing chain, which was original is now worn... and has slipped a few teeth. I'm in NY, and i had a local auto shop order it overnight for me. I'll be changing it out tomorrow night.

I absolutely love my lumina, and next major repair is going to be the struts, and shocks. As well as the rear leaf spring. I have some minor body damage, which is going to be fixed after i get new tires on the car, and fix the suspension.

I plan on keeping a running log in this thread.

Anyone with a 3.1L V6, can ask me whatever questions they want... I have full wiring diagrams, and repair manuals. I personally diagnosed and fixed my problems as they occured with a Snap-On OBD scanner.

I will eventually provide a full error-code list, as well as some wiring diagrams. Other stuff upon request.

I seriously doubt you've slipped a timing chain this early. I've seen these run to 175,000 and more without the gears rounding. But let us know what you see in there.

They were more prone to rolling idle when the chain stretched or slipped.

I'd bet on a fuel delivery glitch, since you've covered the rest.

For whatever reason, my dad and his mechanic think that the problem doesn't lie in the timing chain either.

I just recalled, that smoke came out of my steering column about a month ago. I don't know why i'd dis-regarded that... I have narrowed it down to not being the horn, the hazard lights, the windshield wipers, or the turn signals. The cruise control works too... What else is in the steering column that might have caught fire, or cooked and smoked?

I seriously doubt you've slipped a timing chain this early. I've seen these run to 175,000 and more without the gears rounding. But let us know what you see in there.

They were more prone to rolling idle when the chain stretched or slipped.

I'd bet on a fuel delivery glitch, since you've covered the rest.

The fuel pump has solid voltage going to it.. it isnt cutting out.
and i have consistent fuel pressure on the fuel rail, and down the entire line.

Could i possibly have cooked the actual ignition? And what effect would that have had on way the car runs?

After resetting idle, the car runs relatively smoothly... still slightly rough, with some vibration. As soon as you give it gas, it dies. The TPS is reading correctly. I had a system scanner plugged into the diagnostic port. Everything seems to be reading within the acceptable range...

I'm not getting ANY engine codes. I'm wracking my brain here.

Jeff, didn't you say something about a bad coolant temp sensor causing the 3.1's to run bad? Maybe try there. Otherwise if i were you matt, I'd look into the fuel injectors. Do a balence test on them. You are probably familiar with this, so I'm not gonna go into detail. Replace any that seem out of range of the others. Or maybe just replace them all. Also I'd replace the fuel filter too. That may be part of your problem. Good luck. Welcome to AF!

Jeff, didn't you say something about a bad coolant temp sensor causing the 3.1's to run bad? Maybe try there. Otherwise if i were you matt, I'd look into the fuel injectors. Do a balence test on them. You are probably familiar with this, so I'm not gonna go into detail. Replace any that seem out of range of the others. Or maybe just replace them all. Also I'd replace the fuel filter too. That may be part of your problem. Good luck. Welcome to AF!

Yeah, I've seen CTS for the ECM go bad and make it command some really weird fuel mix ratios.

It seems when this happens, the problem is not bad until the motor warms up, or bad when cold and better with temp, as the incorrect ratio starts to be closer or farther from what the motor actually needs for the temp at the time.

Yeah, I've seen CTS for the ECM go bad and make it command some really weird fuel mix ratios.

It seems when this happens, the problem is not bad until the motor warms up, or bad when cold and better with temp, as the incorrect ratio starts to be closer or farther from what the motor actually needs for the temp at the time.

hmm, well i'm going to check some more of the wiring in the interior of the car... i had a problem with my dimmer and light switches. I might have more interior wiring problems too... and there might be a major ground short possibly in there.

I'm noticing that my injectors are being shut off when i give the car gas, for whatever reason... i have a test light plugged into the harness where the first injector is. I think something is shorting out still... i'm almost at a loss of where to look.

I'm going on nearly day 10 of not being able to drive the damn thing. I absolutely love the car, and i can't wait to have it back on the road... It's always treated me well... and is comfortable as hell to drive and ride in.

I'll post more tonight, when i am done playing around with some more wiring. and btw? The snap-on scanner is reading acceptable temperature ranges... I guess i can do a printout of how it's all running... but all the sensors seem to be functioning correctly, now that the idle was reset. I'm not getting any error codes, which is making me nuts. It's hard to diagnose it, without any codes coming up... its just that the car dies when you step on the pedal. I still think it's electrical... but it could be a failed sensor that i didnt change yet... that is failing when i give it gas... but not when the car is at idle. I'm stumped. I'll check out just about anything to get this damn thing working.... I have the tools. I can do it, i just need to know what to look for.

on a whim i pulled off my serpentine belt....

guess what? The car ran beautifully... and didnt stall when i gave it gas. Harmonic Dampener... i have to drop my engine down a bit, and put the car on jack stands. Then use a puller to pull the crankshaft pulley wheel.

I'll keep you guys posted on my progress with the crankshaft dampener.

I'm confused. The balancer wouldn't make it die, and turns whether the belt is on or not.

I'm confused. The balancer wouldn't make it die, and turns whether the belt is on or not.

the housing behind it, the plate. It might have slipped... causing it to rub, and catch when there is tension on it from the pulley... it moves nice without a load on it, but once there is tension on it... it messes with the crankshaft sensor readings and crap like that...

I'm waiting for a three jaw puller, i'll keep ya posted.

the housing behind it, the plate. It might have slipped... causing it to rub, and catch when there is tension on it from the pulley... it moves nice without a load on it, but once there is tension on it... it messes with the crankshaft sensor readings and crap like that...

I'm waiting for a three jaw puller, i'll keep ya posted.

Ahhh....that makes sense. Weird. Never seen that one.

Kinda reminds me of the old Mopars with the dual belt A/C compressors. If you were pretty strong, and put a hell of a lotta tension on those belts, the crank mains would knock from all the sideload.

pulled it off... everything seems pretty normal...

I'm at a complete loss here...

What else could be causing the car to stall out, when the belt is on... but not when the belt is off...

Have you replaced the fuel filter?? Have you checked the fuel pressure regualtor?
Maybe you have an injector or 2 going bad.
Maybe a faulty IAC? Did you get a GM one or one from Autozone? I got one from Autozone, and it came apart in the throttle body..........

Keep us posted.

Have you replaced the fuel filter?? Have you checked the fuel pressure regualtor?
Maybe you have an injector or 2 going bad.
Maybe a faulty IAC? Did you get a GM one or one from Autozone? I got one from Autozone, and it came apart in the throttle body..........

Keep us posted.

fuel pressure is a go...
fuel filter is less than 2 weeks old.

The IAC came from NAPA, and i've never had a problem with NAPA parts, ever.

I went over the ECM ground wiring again... and determined that the one going to the A/c sensor was also bad... so i've finally replaced EVERY ECM groundwire. My car isn't giving off any engine codes....

I am noticing a problem with my throttle though... it seems to be catching, or binding or something.

When you start the car, it idles nicely... put it into drive, or reverse, and it runs somewhat rough.... you can give it gas up to about 1600rpm, if you accelerate slowly... and then the car seems like it wants to die if you give it any more gas than that... if you floor it, the engine stumbles and tries to die... but doesn't stall out. seems like it's running really rough when you do that.


I was told by a GM mechanic friend of mine, to check the timing chain and the crankshaft position sensor.

seeing as how the car has 120k on it, i'm going to do the timing chain either way. The crankshaft position sensor, can go bad in stages i've heard, and from what i've read about it as well.

Trying to fix this, is like looking for a needle in a haystack.

I had my CPS go out in January. It just stopped and wouldn't go at all. I also have 1990 lumina 3.1 liter and your problem sounds exactly like mine. My car will start and idle just fine. you give it gas though and it just will stall out. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel screen, tried a new computer, tried a new ECM. all this and the problem remains. I hop0e you solve your problem. Maybe it will solve my problem.

I had that same wierd acceleration problem with my 1990 2.5L 4 banger before I sold it. It would accelereate just fine unless I canned on it, then it would stumble and sometimes die. I never did get it fixed because I just traded it in for a 2001 Lumina, but I would almost have to say to check the cat converter. It may be plugged. If the fuel pump pumps up good, and the pressure stays, and the motor runs good without a load, and then stumbles and dies with one, chances are its a plugged up cat. Good luck.

How about an O2 sensor? Have you ever checked yours out? There is a way to test these I believe, to keep from buying a new one. Jeff, help him out. I believe you have to heat them up with a torch for a specific amount of time, and measure output voltage (or is it continuity)? and it should be within a certain spec. I'm not totally sure. I'm sure you can find tutorials on the net about this. Whats your take jeff? Or maybe just replace it, its only about a 30.00 part, or free if you know the right junkyard. (he he he)

Re-reading the original post, he changed the 02 sensor, blake. Houston said CPS, that sounds likely to me.

This car has so many issues, though it'd be tough to tell in person, much less at a distance. We'll try, though.

I had my CPS go out in January. It just stopped and wouldn't go at all. I also have 1990 lumina 3.1 liter and your problem sounds exactly like mine. My car will start and idle just fine. you give it gas though and it just will stall out. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel screen, tried a new computer, tried a new ECM. all this and the problem remains. I hop0e you solve your problem. Maybe it will solve my problem.

well, apparently the CPS wires melted together... and abraded against the frame... that problem is solved... hopefully my car runs when it's re-assembled...

I'm having serious issues getting the oil pan back in place though...

I ripped the car apart, changed the CPS... checked the timing chain...
cut my arm, smashed my hand with a hammer...

and i worked from 9am to 1120pm. on the damn car.

I have to get it re-assembled... which will occur tomorrow afternoon, when i get out of work.

Pray it works.

well, apparently the CPS wires melted together... and abraded against the frame... that problem is solved... hopefully my car runs when it's re-assembled...

I'm having serious issues getting the oil pan back in place though...

I ripped the car apart, changed the CPS... checked the timing chain...
cut my arm, smashed my hand with a hammer...

and i worked from 9am to 1120pm. on the damn car.

I have to get it re-assembled... which will occur tomorrow afternoon, when i get out of work.

Pray it works.

edit:

I ran new wiring, and replaced the CPS with a new one, just to be safe.
the timing chain is good, and i'm replacing the gaskets.

I just have to figure out how to get the oil pan back in... i had tough time getting it out in the first place.

I had that same wierd acceleration problem with my 1990 2.5L 4 banger before I sold it. It would accelereate just fine unless I canned on it, then it would stumble and sometimes die. I never did get it fixed because I just traded it in for a 2001 Lumina, but I would almost have to say to check the cat converter. It may be plugged. If the fuel pump pumps up good, and the pressure stays, and the motor runs good without a load, and then stumbles and dies with one, chances are its a plugged up cat. Good luck.

I may have found the culprit finally...

there was a rigid air hose attaching the manifold, and the PCV.
It had snapped, and i'd replaced it with a flexible generic one.

I just ordered today, a new rigid air hose that is specially shaped and won't collapse flat under vaccum. Hopefully, my car will be running again when it's in, and there are no other problems.

Because, the cat i have is a little more than one year old... i had to replace it last time i got my car inspected... cause it had broken honeycombs.

I managed to get the oil pan in, and i re-assembled the entire Crank case cover, and accessory mounts. the car is back together, and i'd re-loomed EVERY wire in the entire car, as it was apart anyway.

I'm glad i replaced all the crap that i've already replaced...
I kinda got a crash course in mechanical, and car repair here. I did it almost entirely on my own, with minimal input from anyone while i worked on it.

I never imagined i'd be ripping apart my car the way i did.

I'm gonna cross my fingers, and hope that once i replace the air hose, from the manifold to the PCV... it'll run again without any problems.

How do i bleed the radiator? I'm probally not looking in the right spot.

Bleeder screws located above the water pump, on the bypass pipe, and at the thermostat housing, where the upper hose goes to the back of the motor.

Bleeder screws located above the water pump, on the bypass pipe, and at the thermostat housing, where the upper hose goes to the back of the motor.

It's still stalling out on me.... idles beautifully... stalls out.

I'm at a complete loss for words right now.

I haven't a clue what to look for next.

heh. I feel like a real idiot. Guess what was wrong, that was never checked? The freaking alternator. It went bad in two of three stages.

At least i finally fixed it. granted, there was still a problem with the ignition coils, and a wiring problem, and melted wires everywhere...
(which have all been addressed)
At least i now know what kind of condition my car is in, and will be ready to handle any problems that arise.

These last two weeks, i got a crash course in auto repair. Not half bad. I feel better, because of it.

Next up,

1 - 100amp Alternator
4 - Tires
4 - Rotors
4 - Sets of brake pads
4 - Struts
4 - Shocks
1 - Rear Mono leaf spring

I'll be sure to update if i have any problems with the struts and leaf spring.

nevermind... it's still not working right.

When you pull the wires to the alternator, (new or old) the car runs and idles beautifully...
once you plug the altenator in... it goes haywire...

I'm going to trouble shoot the wiring to it, tonight.
This is insanely frustrating.

check all your belt driven pulleys. I bet you have an A/C compressor, water pump, or tensioner pulley bearing dragging. It's the only thing that makes sense since it runs good with the belt off but not on. With the last post you put up about unplugging the alternator, I would say that your wires running to the voltage regulator are shorted, and causing the alternator to reverse polarity and draw down, acting like an electric engine brake.

check all your belt driven pulleys. I bet you have an A/C compressor, water pump, or tensioner pulley bearing dragging. It's the only thing that makes sense since it runs good with the belt off but not on. With the last post you put up about unplugging the alternator, I would say that your wires running to the voltage regulator are shorted, and causing the alternator to reverse polarity and draw down, acting like an electric engine brake.

I'll check the voltage regulator when i get out of work..

All the accessories are rotating nicely... nothing seems to be dragging.... but the tensioner is bouncing like something might be hanging. the water pump is rotating really smoothly... and the ac seems to be rotating smoothly as well... so i'm not quite sure what else to look for.

When the belt is on, and the alt is plugged in, i have problems..
when the belt is on, and the alt isnt plugged in, it works..
when the belt is off, it works, and the alt. state has no effect on the car's preformance.

I'm beyond stumped at this point. I'm taking it to a mechanic, and then if it's a rediculous amount of money... i found a beat up 3.1L about 20 miles from my other house. I'm going to buy it, for cheap... pull the engine and whatever other parts i want... and then junk the smashed frame. It got smashed on the passenger side panels and doors... that's about it.

Ok..I need help also. I have a 1990 Lumina 2.5 piece of junk. I swear to you this car is POSSESSED!! We have changed everything imaginable...all sensors, plugs, wires,computer...several fuel injectors because we were convinced we were being sold the wrong one because only the old one seems to keep the car running...problem is...the car will sit and idle ok but as soon as you give it some gas it either stalls right away or backfires then stalls. Sometimes it takes 10 trys just to get it out of the driveway!!!! Does ANYONE have ANY other ideas on what is wrong with this thing???? Thanks for any help!!

Ok..I need help also. I have a 1990 Lumina 2.5 piece of junk. I swear to you this car is POSSESSED!! We have changed everything imaginable...all sensors, plugs, wires,computer...several fuel injectors because we were convinced we were being sold the wrong one because only the old one seems to keep the car running...problem is...the car will sit and idle ok but as soon as you give it some gas it either stalls right away or backfires then stalls. Sometimes it takes 10 trys just to get it out of the driveway!!!! Does ANYONE have ANY other ideas on what is wrong with this thing???? Thanks for any help!!

Only thing I clearly remember on the 2.5's was the vacuum line going to the MAP sensor on the firewall would get spongy and collapse when vacuum was applied, so the MAP was not reading vacuum correctly, caused all kinds of problems, stalling, sputtering, sometimes almost undriveable.

It's worth a look. Look for any other vacuum leaks while you're at it.

We checked all the lines and they seem to be good. This car gives different error codes everyime you clear it and check it again. Last night it said low voltage at the map sensor. Of course we have changed the MAP...cleared the codes...then no codes..but like you say the car is so undrivable. Anything else? Its like the thing has a mind of its own and we are just chasing our tails here. And for some weird reason the Dome light came on last night and would not go out...possessed I tell you..

the dome light is on the interior dimmer switch, if you move it all the way to the top, the dome light comes on. make sure its down a notch to save your battery. Um, it backfires? Pull a plug, is it running real rich? If it is, I sant know, but did the 2.5's have a timing belt or chain, is it possable that the belt or chain skipped a tooth causing it to run really bad? Just a thought.

We keep thinking it is acting like timing. The book says that on that engine there is no way to set or adjust the timing, says it right on the little sticker with the vacuum diagram under the hood. And it says it is not a belt or chain, book says it has timing gears. Oh and yes it is running rich...so now what?? Thanks for the info on the dome light, I guess we must have moved the switch!

timing gears? Odd. i guess it is possable. Um, maybe try cleaning the trottle body with some carb cleaner or something. I dont remember this motor since i've owned it, but is it fuel injected? Or throttle body injected? Maybe do an injector balence test on it to see if one or more injectors arent leaking extra gas into the cylinders. Like i said, I have no idea really about these motors, what they have, or how they run. I'm just throwing out some ideas. I know matt has changed this, but have you bridgett changed that oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold up by the motor yet? I had one go out, and it ran so rich that it would go 30mph and would die. Went through half a tank of gas driving home. (about 10 miles). keep the updates coming. Good luck.

It has a throttle body, we have put 3 different injectors in it and it will only run with the old one in it...but with all the other stuff I was saying..the stalling and backfiring. We thought we were being sold the wrong injector but that is not the case. I think maybe there is something telling the computer to shut the fuel off and thats why it starts then dies. You can dribble gas into the throttlebody and keep it running that way. So I think it runs bad with the old injector because it is dumping way too much gas causing the backfire and stall problem.What you think? What would make the injector shut off when it's not supposed to? We have put three different computers in it. Oh...and we did replace the 02 sensor.....So now what?

It has a throttle body, we have put 3 different injectors in it and it will only run with the old one in it...but with all the other stuff I was saying..the stalling and backfiring. We thought we were being sold the wrong injector but that is not the case. I think maybe there is something telling the computer to shut the fuel off and thats why it starts then dies. You can dribble gas into the throttlebody and keep it running that way. So I think it runs bad with the old injector because it is dumping way too much gas causing the backfire and stall problem.What you think? What would make the injector shut off when it's not supposed to? We have put three different computers in it. Oh...and we did replace the 02 sensor.....So now what?

Have someone wiggle the injector and ignition wiring harness around while you try to get it to idle in gear. See if it has a break in the wiring that reacts to the engine movement during gear engagement. Is the stock injector physically different in any way, such as length or angle where wiring comes into it, etc.

BTW, that problem I mentioned with the vacuum line to the MAP sensor is not visually obvious, you have to actually feel the rubber end of the line at the sensor end to realize it. You can feel it suck together and get blocked at idle. Engine movement during gear engagement aggravates this problem as well, as the line runs from the motor to the firewall and is tugged on when the motor pitches as it goes into gear.

Well.............tried all that, no difference though. I swear we are at such a loss. Fixing to lose my job because I can't get there. But keep giving us directions to go because we may just find it!!!!!
Thanks so much!!

i finally got a diagnosis on my car...

mechanic is saying that the compression on the cylinders is way too high... and that my timing chain did in fact skip a tooth or two....

As i've never inspected a timing chain previously, i do see that as being in the realm of possibility. My rear spark plugs were loose too.

So, we shall see in a day or two, when they replace my timing chain.

As far as the hose off the PCV... i had to order a new hose, from the dealer, and it wasn't shaped like the original. You have to get a pcv, with a 90 degree head, to accomodate for that, or your hose WILL get kinked and cause serious vaccum problems.

Well.............tried all that, no difference though. I swear we are at such a loss. Fixing to lose my job because I can't get there. But keep giving us directions to go because we may just find it!!!!!
Thanks so much!!

From what you are saying, your car is behaving exactly like mine.... how many miles is on your car? Get the timing chain inspected, if you can.

The car only has 47,000 on it because it has pretty much sat most of its life due to the fact that the original owner died 2 years after its purchase and they just kinda kept it around. According to my Chilton manual this year model...1990, does not have a timing chain or belt, but timing gears. So without taking the motor down there is no way to adjust timing and it clearly states this on a little tag under the hood.....now how weird is that? What is a person supposed to do?

The car only has 47,000 on it because it has pretty much sat most of its life due to the fact that the original owner died 2 years after its purchase and they just kinda kept it around. According to my Chilton manual this year model...1990, does not have a timing chain or belt, but timing gears. So without taking the motor down there is no way to adjust timing and it clearly states this on a little tag under the hood.....now how weird is that? What is a person supposed to do?

OK, quick lesson.

The engines we are talking about are DIS, distributorless ignition system. This means no moving parts in the ignition timing system (distributor). It relies on a signal from a position sensor that tells it at what point in a revolution the motor is at any given time. The computer (ignition module) uses that signal to time the ignition firing. By conferring with the ECM about load changes, speed and throttle positon, etc, it can modify spark advance/retard to suit conditions on the fly. There is no provisions to set base ignition timing, because it is not needed. It can't change.

Now on the other hand we are talking about VALVE timing, which is the relationship between camshaft and crankshaft synchronization. This too is set, and can't be adjusted other than reclocking the gears/chain/belt, whatever your motor uses. But you don't want to do that, other than in performance applications, which I'm not gonna go into right now.

The gear drive is what is responsible for the odd sound of the 2.5. They all have that weird rhythmic growl to them at idle, that's the gear drive you hear. I've seen lots of shop replace these gearsets very early claiming they were sloppy, but I'm not sure how they came to this conclusion, as I've had a few of these motors that went over 150,000 miles without being opened up. Gear drives are generally VERY reliable and precise, the only reason they aren't widely used is because of the noise issue.


As long as you have the DIS system, you don't have to worry about an ignition timing issue. A simple test of using a breaker bar to rotate the crankshaft one direction to a compression stroke, then slowly back the other way, noting the number of degrees of crankshaft rotation that occur before the valvetrain begins to move (should be able to see through the oil cap) will give a rough idea of chain/gear condition. More than about 2-3 degrees is worn. But I've seen 'em with 5-6 that were still running fine. Would probably need to be in the 6-8 range before it'd be sloppy enough to jump time.

When that 2.5 backfires under load, is it popping through the intake? If so, that's fuel starvation, you're right. The ignition module provides timing for the injector as well, so that would seem to indicate that the problem is in the fuel system alone, because if the IM or crank sensor were at fault, fuel and spark stop simultaneously, and there wouldn't be any intake pop.

What about a throttle position sensor? I don't remember if you said that was changed yet.

You know, I do seem to remember something about the 2.5's that may explain the gear replacements. Seems there was an issue with the OE set being nylon coated, for noise abatement, but the nylon wore off quickly and left them sloppy. The replacement was a cast iron set, noisier but indestructable. I had forgotten about those. It's been a long time that I've been out of the shop. Sorry.

Bridgett, can your car be driven at all? I mean, if you can coax it into rolling, will it run along at higher throttle openings?

I am new to this sort of thing. I don't know too much about cars except what my stepdad has told me. I have a 90 Lumina 3.1L and I think it's dying on me. It has about 218,000 miles and as of this morning, is not starting.

I guess there is the anti-theft steering wheel lock thing that causes you to have to turn the steering wheel to the left sometimes to start the car. In the past couple weeks I have tried turning the key but it doesnt go past the "mode" where the dashboard lights come on (told you I don't know too much). Anyway, so I have tried turning the steering wheel to the left like I have done before but it takes two or three tries before it finally starts. Just in the past few days it has taken a good ten or fifteen tries to get it started. Yesterday evening I tried for about five minutes to get it started. Normally I kept trying and something would just work or I would get lucky and it would start. But yesterday was really difficult and I finally got it started after sitting there trying for about ten minutes. This morning I am ready to leave for work and I try for another five minutes to get it started but it didn't.

My stepdad thinks there is something wrong in the steering column...my left turn signal doesn't work, it stays solid but he says it is not the fuse or lightbulb. Also, last fall, my car did this same thing where it wouldn't start but we didn't know what to do and smoke was coming from the steering column. I'd really just like any advice on what this could be so I can make a small repair so this car can last me another six months or so until I can afford to get a newer one. We have had this car since March 1990 and it's been a really good car to us, no major problems with it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Let me know if I can give any more info that would help diagnose my problem :) Thank you!

Can't really help you there, youl'll have to either pull the wheel and get down in the column and see what's narfed up, or (sometimes cheaper, especially that old) have a steering column specialist put a junkyard column in it.

Actually, a locksmith might be able to tell you what's wrong with it also, they've seen it all, and know how the linkages and ignition switch relate to each other.

Or you crack and peel the column open, and start it by pulling the link rods, like they do in the 'hood :evillol:

Haha, OK thank you for the suggestions. I'll pass them onto my stepdad and hopefully something will work! :sly: :lol2:

I think that I may have figured out your problem because I solved mine. On my car that was just repaired the problem lied in the ECM harness that runs under the car. there's a short that it shutting down three of your injectors.
Well, for starters... i'm new to the forums. This is my first post.

I have a 1990 3.1L with 118k miles on it. I got it with 90kmiles, from my grandmother for like 500.00 dollars.

I've since done the following to it:
Rebuilt tranny, new catalytic converter, new rear calipers.

three weeks ago, i started having serious trouble with it. The engine would jerk, and it was running real rough. Finally, it stalled out on me.... and wouldnt start.

I've since changed out the following parts:

O2 sensor, MAP, IAC, TPS, PCV valve, PCV hose, all three ignition coils, ignition module, all 6 spark plugs, all spark plug wires, a new system computer, replaced all the wire loom, which was dry rotted, replaced the ECM ground lead, throughout the entire car... which had a short in it.

And then i made the car re-learn idle. The car is stalling when you give it gas... which leads me to believe that the timing chain, which was original is now worn... and has slipped a few teeth. I'm in NY, and i had a local auto shop order it overnight for me. I'll be changing it out tomorrow night.

I absolutely love my lumina, and next major repair is going to be the struts, and shocks. As well as the rear leaf spring. I have some minor body damage, which is going to be fixed after i get new tires on the car, and fix the suspension.

I plan on keeping a running log in this thread.

Anyone with a 3.1L V6, can ask me whatever questions they want... I have full wiring diagrams, and repair manuals. I personally diagnosed and fixed my problems as they occured with a Snap-On OBD scanner.

I will eventually provide a full error-code list, as well as some wiring diagrams. Other stuff upon request.

Matt, about 2 weeks ago my car started giving me problems with starting up. It would crank but not start but after a few tries I got it started but it would cut right off. I changed the filters, plugs, wires etc and took it to the shop and it came up no codes. Could it be a vacuum leak because now it won't start at all.

pulled it off... everything seems pretty normal...

I'm at a complete loss here...

What else could be causing the car to stall out, when the belt is on... but not when the belt is off...

im having similar problems with my 91
i'll try to pull of the belt to see what happens
maybe the alternator is pulling to much load

i was driving 45 mph
opened up to 105 mph
then slowed back down again
noticed the car runing rough too
pulled over tried t rev up but motor would not
runs very rough at idle
it took ten miles of driving at ten mph before the check engine light came on( i could only get the car to go ten mph)
and it would die once and a while
checked the codes and got a 13 and 22 (tps and o2)
towed the car home cleared codes
car still runs the same (bad)
don't have any codes now
i pulled spark wires
on front cylinders 2,4,6
one at a time
2 and 4 were not firing
pulled those plugs they seemed to be some what fouled
but not soaked like you normally see in a fouled plug
i'm getting spark
changed two of three coils
crank sensor is new
i'm at a loss too
let me know what you find out

on my buddies lumina the ac compressor froze up and would not let the belt turn you might want to check the compressor to see if it is turning freely

im having similar problems with my 91
i'll try to pull of the belt to see what happens
maybe the alternator is pulling to much load

i was driving 45 mph
opened up to 105 mph
then slowed back down again
noticed the car runing rough too
pulled over tried t rev up but motor would not
runs very rough at idle
it took ten miles of driving at ten mph before the check engine light came on( i could only get the car to go ten mph)
and it would die once and a while
checked the codes and got a 13 and 22 (tps and o2)
towed the car home cleared codes
car still runs the same (bad)
don't have any codes now
i pulled spark wires
on front cylinders 2,4,6
one at a time
2 and 4 were not firing
pulled those plugs they seemed to be some what fouled
but not soaked like you normally see in a fouled plug
i'm getting spark
changed two of three coils
crank sensor is new
i'm at a loss too
let me know what you find out

i fixed my car fuel injector was bad
thanks

i fixed my car fuel injector was bad
thanks

Hello,

I have a 1990 Lumina 3.1 Euro that was still running a little rough after replacing a shorted fuel injector but I kept driving it that way because of the high cost of fuel injectors. Some fuel injector cleaner appeared to help a little. I was too cheap to replace them all because they cost $100 each and I did not own the equipment to test them on a bench. I have since found a cheaper source for new injectors and a place that exchanges fuel injectors. The remaining 5 fuel injectors have a normal range resistance. The remaining 5 injectors also have approximately 170,000 on them and looking back at my service records I found that was about the amount of mileage I got out of the original injectors before having them replaced by the dealer.

Adding to the problem is that recently the check engine light came on indicating a code 22, low voltage on the TPS. I then immediately replaced the TPS and the code 22 came back after resetting it. I have the shop manual and it indicates that the car possibly has a bad ECM or an open circuit, or shorted circuit. I then replaced the ECM and the error code came back.

Now I don’t know if I should try to find a bad ECM ground wire or replace the fuel injectors, and or the temperature sensor. I checked the wiring going from the TPS sensor at the wiring harness plug and I was able to get a test light to work in that segment of the harness.

The car has newer ignition wires, spark plugs, TPS, alternator, battery, fuel pump with filter and fuel pump screen and crank sensor and am familiar with the symptoms those components cause. I think I have a leaking fuel injector because the exhaust smells very rich but could a leaking fuel injectors be cause the code 22 to be set?, or should I be looking for a shorted or open circuit it the wiring? The engine runs with an abnormally high idle and stalls out when starting out. It does run a little better after getting underway for a few minutes or more.

I have the shop manual but have no idea where the ECM ground and other grounds are located?

A mechanic said that there is an adjustment on the TPS sensor but the manual does not indicate any way to adjust the TPS sensor, and I think he is incorrect.

Any ideas on what would be the next logical step to take?






:banghead: