trany/shifting problems

1st issue hey all, got a 89 mr2 turbo, the shifting on it sucks, if the car is sitting still no movment at all, sometimes it can be reallllly hard to put it in to first, no grinding or anything it just dont wanna go in, I have found that if i shift in to first a foot or so before i come to a complete stop it is much easier, same for downshifting to first, I HAVE to to get the rev up to match what it will be on in first gear just to get it to move to first,

2nd issue kinda hard to shift in to all the gears (first is the most promint one) it is just harder then you would expect to shift, also if I am gunning it when i try to shift to 2nd from 1st redline it is also really hard to shift, again no grinding or anything, it just does not want to engage, seems to like it once the rpms lower and then it goes in a lot better.

3rd and 4th issue these gears seem to be reallly clutch touchy , if i pop the clutch and quick shift to them it gives a little grind ( i feel it in the shift knob more then i hear it ) but if i pop the clutch and take time to shift it dosnt happen, so if i rush it it happens if i take my time it dosn't

reverse issue 2 things here, some times it grinds like crazy when i shift to reverse ( mostly after i have been driving for a while ) some times it is fine, also diffrent kind of hard to put it in to gear on reverse, i can put it half way in to gear if i let up on clutch as it is then it gives some grind snd sometimes, but if i pull it in to gear and slowley let up on the clutch it will drop the rest of the way in.



well typeing this all out makes me think i should get a new tranny :P but I was hopeing that someone here can give me a quick fix, like I read that redline tranny fluid can do some wonders to tranny's but if i have to I will just replace it :P

Thanks
Bob Stone

i have all the same problems 2 i want to no the answers also.

i had the same problem even after i got a new trans. there is a rubber bushing down on the clutch pedal and mine was cracked so the clutch wasn't engaging all the way replace that and it should be fine, cheaper than a new trans and clutch

foxman can you post up some pics of this bushing ?? I can work on cars sort of ( I replaced my tie rod by my self ) but i am not to hot on figuring out what is what

try putting in those synchromesh tranny fluid.

syncro mesh ??? what is it ??

also i have heard about redline mt-90 75W90 GL-4 is that any good for a MT 89 turbo, is gl-4 the proper rating ?

i have the same problem but my shifter bushings are shot.....and probably the clutch one too.......as far as reverse.... if you cant get it in all the way put it into 2nd for a sec with the clutch depressed then shift into reverse with it still depressed it works on alot of cars .....and it's in the manual for the car

i can tell you why your reverse is doing that. Almost all manual tranmissions do this at some point. It is because(i'm not sure if its your input or output shaft) is spinning. I belive the input. For some cars the shaft must be sitting still to engage correctly this is why it grinds. For the reason that the shifter goes half in then when you slowly raise the clutch it pops in is because the input and output shafts halfway engage but cannot engange further because they are not lined up correctly. When you raise your clutch pedal this spins the shaft just enough for it to engage fully. Some body correct me if I am wrong.

syncro mesh ??? what is it ??

also i have heard about redline mt-90 75W90 GL-4 is that any good for a MT 89 turbo, is gl-4 the proper rating ?

it is a type of tranny fluid used for gm motors, but is found to work really good in most japanese cars. it helps with grinding and rough shifting. i have only heard good things about the fluid. some people say it's like magic. you might want to try it out and see if it works. you could find them at amazon.com. that's where my brother got his.

wow people have the same problem. Ive been afraid to post thinking someone will tell me i need a new tranny. My clutch is new. 4th grinds when i shift fast, and it doesnt like to take first like you explained. I just ordered the twosrus shift kit with aluminum bushings, im hoping that will help, i guess ill try the transmission fluid also.

foxman do you have the part number for the bushing on the clutch?

I have an 87 N/A that i think needs the little rubber peice replaced, what is the PN? anyone have it?

i thought for sure my clutch was goin on me, glad i decided to check here first :)

i can tell you why your reverse is doing that. Almost all manual tranmissions do this at some point. It is because(i'm not sure if its your input or output shaft) is spinning. I belive the input. For some cars the shaft must be sitting still to engage correctly this is why it grinds. For the reason that the shifter goes half in then when you slowly raise the clutch it pops in is because the input and output shafts halfway engage but cannot engange further because they are not lined up correctly. When you raise your clutch pedal this spins the shaft just enough for it to engage fully. Some body correct me if I am wrong. question:What exactly do you suppose is spinning the input shaft?answer:It's basically weak clutch springs.The clutch and pressure plate are still contacting ever so slightly even with the clutch all the way in.Note:When a new clutch is installed make sure you adjust the rod on the clutch pedal so there is some play because if you don't the throwout bearing will continually ride the clutch fins and wear both out prematurely.

I have the same problems.

MT90 Redline fluid eliminated grinding/crunching.

The car still hates quick shifting from high rpm though :(

-91 NA mr2

new issue arose, i am now getting a chirping sound, like a constant low volume med- high pitch chirp comming from trany / engine area when ever clutch in engaged , even if car is not in gear as long as i do not have the clutch pedal pushed in i hear this noise, ? does not seem to be related to rpm, if i am driving fast or slow it seems to make the sound at the same rate, any ideas on this also

could be a heat shield i have that problem but i found out its just a heat shield on my exhaust ratteling

could be your pilot bearing

hey all thanks for the info, I have narrowed it down to an internal issue, I was talking to a guy hear and he said that it could be a part of my throw out fork ?? might have gotten bent / broken and that I might as well drive it till it breaks all the way then just replace the complete tranny at that time, does that make any sense to you all ?

foxman can you post up some pics of this bushing ?? I can work on cars sort of ( I replaced my tie rod by my self ) but i am not to hot on figuring out what is what

Try the shifter cable bushings on the trany and dont go to the dealer they will ask 300$ it comes with the cable. Go to any auto part store and pick up bushings with the same diameter holle and grind the outside dawn save about 290$. make shure your old bushings are bad. Get under the car and follow the shifting lines. Use 75 -95w synthetic gear oil for the trany Gl5 when your car was made probably this oil didnt exist that is why it says gl4