This is a good one!!! 95 T-bird guage, blower, Automatic Clicmate control Prob

This is a doozy!! These all happened at once yesterday. While driving home, dry day, coming to a stop fro about 35 MPH, no hard running or bumps or anything, the fan blower goes HIGH, climate control indicator goes blank, nothing displayed when I hit outside temp button, air flow does not change when I use the high to low speed turn dial. When I try changing from MAX AC which will freeze you out in 5 minutes, to ac to panel is does work properly, but still blows high. BUT when I switch it to the OFF position the defroster kicks on to HIGH. Now keep all of above in mind. Once all that happened my analog battery indicator pegged to the left, like the car was shut off. No battery light, all the other gauges work fine. Took it to Autozone and had both battery and alternator checked, nothing wrong with them. Car still runs EXCELLENT except no battery indicator, blower goes HIGH as soon as the car starts and I cannot change the climate control. I have also checked all the fuses... nothing wrong. I have already taken it into one shop and had them run a diagnotic on it.. they couldn't find anyhting wrong. They worked on it for 45 min with me out there explaining at the same time. Nothing... but atleast they didn;t charge me for it. Any help would be great before I take it to the Ford Dealership and get killed. Thanks!!

Is the climate control indicator blank all of the time? Either the temp control module (SATC) or the blower motor speed controller (BMSC) is bad. Be sure the ignition switch is off before continuing. The BMSC should be bolted to the A/C evaporator housing near the blower, on the passenger side. It will have two connectors on it. The leads from one connector go to the blower and the leads from the other one go to the SATC module. The connector that goes to the SATC has three terminals in line with each other and two more at 90 degrees to the other three. There should be a purple wire in one terminal of the three in line and no wires in the other two. This is the wire that you have to find in the SATC module connector that has ten wires going into it and is the Variable Blower Speed Input wire.The two terminals at 90 degrees should have a BR/O wire (Power) in the terminal closest to the purple wire and a black wire (Ground) in the other one. Next pull out the SATC panel using radio removal tools or a couple of pieces of STIFF coat hangers bent into a U shape. On the back there should be three connectors with two of them about the same size. One will have ten wires going in and the other one will have nine wires. Remove the one with ten wires and looking at it with the large tab on the top, the purple wire mentioned earlier should be in the terminal to the right of the tab. I don't know if you can see the teminal location numbers on the connector but it is #23. Ohm it out to be sure and then plug the connector back into the BMSC. Next ground the SATC harness terminal and turn the key to RUN. If the blower doesn't run then replace the SATC module. If it does run and you know you have a good connection on both ends of the purple wire then replace the BMSC. The info for the above was taken from a 1997 so you might want to go to the library and get a Mitchell electrical manual for a 1995 to be sure the connectors and colors are the same. As long as you find the VBSI wire, ohm it out to be sure you have a connection on both ends and ground it at the SATC connector, the basic test will apply. FYI- You normally will get air flow through the defroster duct even with the control set to off. Vacuum is only applied to the defrost duct door to close it in A/C, Panel, and Panel & Floor modes. That's all I have time for now. Good luck!

SIR- I had the same problem you described in a 95 4.6L recently. However, I had a "RUN" fuse (5 amp) blown. The supply circuit that controls the SATC, the volts indicator and (believe it or not) the O/D switch in the shifter, is the same. I had some sort of problem in the wiring to the O/D switch, since after verifiyng the switch no more blown fuse (had a 3 amp breaker instead of the fuse). Hope this helps.

the fuse your talking about blows because the wiring in th shift knob breaks where it turns back at the base of the shifter and then grounds out against the shifter. the design doesnt make alot of sense BUT thats engineers for your mechanical enjoyment LMAO

I accually had this happen in my 93' Was Quite frustrating. But driving hit a speed bump kinda hard, boom back to normal. I know not much help, but I thought i would share.