Replacing dashboard light
vhandobi
06-21-2005, 06:39 PM
I have a 97 Expedition. One of the lights on the dash has gone out. I am wondering the following:
1. I assume this is old enough that the dash still is illuminated with lamps and does not use LED's?
2. How would one go about replacing the light? I assume that I'd have to pull the dash and instrument panel off to get to these?
Any information is appreciated.
1. I assume this is old enough that the dash still is illuminated with lamps and does not use LED's?
2. How would one go about replacing the light? I assume that I'd have to pull the dash and instrument panel off to get to these?
Any information is appreciated.
bigdaddy832
06-28-2005, 01:28 AM
Removing the instrument panel is easy, just a series of screw. Nothing complicated. To replace the bulbs just turn the bulb casing about a quarter turn, pull out and take out old bulb then replace. It might be hard to turn the casing, but it will turn.
chuckphd53
06-30-2005, 06:52 PM
I have the same problem....98 and almost half of the lamps
are out...
taking out the gauge panel ??
are all the screws up front or are there some hiding ???
are out...
taking out the gauge panel ??
are all the screws up front or are there some hiding ???
shoguy_
07-13-2005, 06:25 PM
On a '99 Expy, there is one screw behind the headlight switch that has to be removed. It may be there on a "98 as well.
BTom
02-25-2006, 11:34 PM
I just did this project and need to add to the other posts. Like everything on this rig, there is a trick to it. You'll need 5 lights and they are cheap. I bought mine from a local Ford dealer for under $5.00 total.
Step 1: Disconnect your battery. I know everyone always says this, but I am serious. You'll see why in step 4.
Step 2: Pop the collar off around the stearing column. There is little resistance, presumable to lure you into forcing and breaking the light switch panel. (see step 4 )
Step 3: Remove every screw you can find. there are a lot.
Step 4: I will try to explain this as best I can. Take a clothes hanger and put a 1/2 inch, 45 degree bend in the end. Jam it under the black light switch panel from beneath between the knob and the first dimmer dial. (2/5 over from the left.)Once the tip is roughly 1/2 way up the panel, twist it so the angle is facing the firewall. Gently pry toward the stearing wheel. (You thought I was kidding about the battery.) Why are you doing this? The engineering savants at Ford cut a small hole in the bottom of the switch mechanisme to access a lever encapsulated inside which actuates a tab on the left hand side. Youre essencially picking a lock.
Step 5: Remove the critical screw deep behing the light switch. Aren't you glad they put that there. The dash might have fallen off without it.:screwy:
Step 6: Reattach the battery, start the truck, shift into Drive and swing the dash panel toward the door. You don't need to pull the harness if you don't want. Put in Park and shut it off.
Step 7: 4 more bolts around the instrument panel... Yank 'em.
Step 8: pull the cluster forward and up. The gear indicator pops of by pinching the sides. The 3 wiring harnesses on the back come off like normal, pinch in the little tabs. They only go back in one way, so don't worry about marking them.
Step 9: Start the rig and put it in Drive again to get the cluster out. If it gets stuck it is your odometer reset. Twist it around a little bit.
Step 10: The lights are in there tight. I used a wrench to twist them free with great results. Pull the lights out and plug in their $0.66 replacements.
Step 11: Put it all beck together. Extra points if you can get every screw in without dropping any into the abyss. I lost two.
Sorry for the long post, but I almost caused serious damage because I did't have all the information up front. Good luck!
Step 1: Disconnect your battery. I know everyone always says this, but I am serious. You'll see why in step 4.
Step 2: Pop the collar off around the stearing column. There is little resistance, presumable to lure you into forcing and breaking the light switch panel. (see step 4 )
Step 3: Remove every screw you can find. there are a lot.
Step 4: I will try to explain this as best I can. Take a clothes hanger and put a 1/2 inch, 45 degree bend in the end. Jam it under the black light switch panel from beneath between the knob and the first dimmer dial. (2/5 over from the left.)Once the tip is roughly 1/2 way up the panel, twist it so the angle is facing the firewall. Gently pry toward the stearing wheel. (You thought I was kidding about the battery.) Why are you doing this? The engineering savants at Ford cut a small hole in the bottom of the switch mechanisme to access a lever encapsulated inside which actuates a tab on the left hand side. Youre essencially picking a lock.
Step 5: Remove the critical screw deep behing the light switch. Aren't you glad they put that there. The dash might have fallen off without it.:screwy:
Step 6: Reattach the battery, start the truck, shift into Drive and swing the dash panel toward the door. You don't need to pull the harness if you don't want. Put in Park and shut it off.
Step 7: 4 more bolts around the instrument panel... Yank 'em.
Step 8: pull the cluster forward and up. The gear indicator pops of by pinching the sides. The 3 wiring harnesses on the back come off like normal, pinch in the little tabs. They only go back in one way, so don't worry about marking them.
Step 9: Start the rig and put it in Drive again to get the cluster out. If it gets stuck it is your odometer reset. Twist it around a little bit.
Step 10: The lights are in there tight. I used a wrench to twist them free with great results. Pull the lights out and plug in their $0.66 replacements.
Step 11: Put it all beck together. Extra points if you can get every screw in without dropping any into the abyss. I lost two.
Sorry for the long post, but I almost caused serious damage because I did't have all the information up front. Good luck!
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026
