Slotted/Drilled rotors
Turbodog97
06-21-2005, 02:18 PM
Just installed my slotted/drilled rotors. Tell me what you think :p
https://paa.services.traderpub.com/img/site/auto/autotrader/city/20050621/2f6d0868b41915ff1f367cf18d1b28d3.jpg
https://paa.services.traderpub.com/img/site/auto/autotrader/city/20050621/bd2dcccd8270613b1bc6966e791f7c9a.jpg
https://paa.services.traderpub.com/img/site/auto/autotrader/city/20050621/2f6d0868b41915ff1f367cf18d1b28d3.jpg
https://paa.services.traderpub.com/img/site/auto/autotrader/city/20050621/bd2dcccd8270613b1bc6966e791f7c9a.jpg
alphalanos
06-21-2005, 02:20 PM
looks good. what kind? how do they perform?
crazzyguydj
06-21-2005, 02:22 PM
look good, when I put mine on I tried to paint them and when I sprayed them with brake cleaner the paint started running and shit it sucked. I think I tried to use caliper paint. But it didn't run on the calipers... Must be the metal
david-b
06-21-2005, 03:48 PM
Nice!! I've just ordered slotted rotors, new calipers, ceramick pads, and stainless steel braided brake lines and now I cant wait to get em after seeing yours. (Got a fine-ass discount on the whole thing!! $298)
Turbodog97
06-21-2005, 10:19 PM
Ya they are pretty awesome. I have to wait a few hundred miles though before I can try out their potential(to break 'em in) but they were relatively easy to install and look great. But I would suggest not to get the colored zinc coating though because it seems to be comming off :uhoh: Also...I was wonder does anybody have an OEM white spoiler for sale??? Im wanting to switch back, thanks!
Whathits14
06-21-2005, 10:27 PM
Also...I was wonder does anybody have an OEM white spoiler for sale??? Im wanted to switch back, thanks!
Good choice, and the rotors look great :cheers:
Good choice, and the rotors look great :cheers:
kjewer1
06-22-2005, 12:36 AM
The zinc coating will wear off the friction surface, of course. The rotors are constantly being "machined" by the pads ;) The point of the coating is that it remains everywhere else and prevents corrosion. Corrosion can "weld" the rotor to the hub, this will put that off a good bit longer. Still worth having it. :) If the holes are drilled through, as opposed to dimpled, check the rotors for cracks with each oil change.
gthompson97
06-22-2005, 03:20 AM
they look pretty tight. let us know how they perform when the break-in period is done.
spyderturbo007
06-22-2005, 08:33 AM
few hundred miles though before I can try out their potential(to break 'em in)
You will absolutely love them. Mine stop on a dime, there is no fade and no shuddering. They are one of the best mods I have done to date!
You will absolutely love them. Mine stop on a dime, there is no fade and no shuddering. They are one of the best mods I have done to date!
toicy4ya
06-30-2005, 03:37 PM
They look hot,
I'm looking to do mines soon. What brand are they? How much? Were they a bitch to put on or is it D.I.Y.?
I'm looking to do mines soon. What brand are they? How much? Were they a bitch to put on or is it D.I.Y.?
spyderturbo007
07-01-2005, 08:26 AM
Mine are Brembo mated with Akebono ceramic pads. You can get the rotors here:
http://turboimport.com/catalog/eclipse.htm
$239 for all 4 rotors (front and rear)
The pads you can get here:
http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=376&cat=13&page=1
They were $68 for the front and $68 for the rear ($136 total).
Worth every penny. Just make sure you install the rotors so they turn in the correct direction :wink: .
They were easy to do, I did a write-up on them covering the installation, I'll see if I can find the link.
Here it is:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=397132
http://turboimport.com/catalog/eclipse.htm
$239 for all 4 rotors (front and rear)
The pads you can get here:
http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=376&cat=13&page=1
They were $68 for the front and $68 for the rear ($136 total).
Worth every penny. Just make sure you install the rotors so they turn in the correct direction :wink: .
They were easy to do, I did a write-up on them covering the installation, I'll see if I can find the link.
Here it is:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=397132
toicy4ya
07-01-2005, 02:13 PM
Thats hot Spyderturbo,
What is the difference between cross drilled, dimpled or slotted rotors?
What is the difference between cross drilled, dimpled or slotted rotors?
wuman82
07-02-2005, 02:47 PM
Thats hot Spyderturbo,
What is the difference between cross drilled, dimpled or slotted rotors?
Cross drilled are the holes that you see on the rotors, dimpled are holes that doesn't go completely through the rotor, thus called dimples. The holes/dimples are there for better airflow, thus better cooling. One big disadvantage to having cross drilled is that if the drill job wasn't done right you can easly crack your rotors, which would not be good. Slots are the slots you see on the rotors, they are there for gas to escape, so you get a good contact between your brake pad and rotor.
What is the difference between cross drilled, dimpled or slotted rotors?
Cross drilled are the holes that you see on the rotors, dimpled are holes that doesn't go completely through the rotor, thus called dimples. The holes/dimples are there for better airflow, thus better cooling. One big disadvantage to having cross drilled is that if the drill job wasn't done right you can easly crack your rotors, which would not be good. Slots are the slots you see on the rotors, they are there for gas to escape, so you get a good contact between your brake pad and rotor.
toicy4ya
07-02-2005, 09:47 PM
Kool,
Thanks for the feedback. So overrall which would be the best to go with?
Thanks for the feedback. So overrall which would be the best to go with?
scottsee
07-03-2005, 12:17 AM
sloted rotors are designed to heat up the breakpads, they double function as gas extractors. the best type of gas extracting rotors are drilled/ventilated disk style.
Gsx_hooptie
07-03-2005, 09:54 AM
Just to summarize and add a bit of info here, as well as an offer:
Rotors:
Rotors are the stopping surface that pads grip during breaking. You can buy them larger than stock, but not much larger, or you'll need new caliper brackets. So, if we want to improve braking and we can't get larger rotors, what do we do...
1) Dimpling is poking concave recesses below the rotor surface, but not all the way through the rotor.
2) Drilling is creating holes in the rotor; in one way, out the other
3) Slotting is making slots in a rotor. These fan out from the center to the circumference of the rotor at an angle.
All of the above are designed to dissipate heat. When your brakes get hot, they don't brake as well. They can even get hot enough to light pads on fire and turn rotors purple (how cool would that be). Most of us don't get our brakes very hot, and since dissipation is exponential, we don't see large gains from any of the three above. But, the good news is that you'll never feel your brakes get sloppy going driving down the mountain from your next snowboarding trip :) Or that damn mountain in Yosemite.
Slotting has another advantage, and disadvantage. The Good: Slotting not only removes heat, but keeps a nice friction surface for the pad. The Bad: It does this by slicing a tiny portion off the surface of the pad. It adds up over time and your pad life is dimminished.
Cracking is a big issue. Rotors that are dimpled, drilled, and slotted, are more likely to crack. If they crack, they're worse than a stock rotor, and need to be replaced quickly. In order from most to least likely to crack: drilled, slotted, dimpled, stock.
A note on Brembo rotors: From the consensus of accounts, these crack less often. It's worth noting that almost all of these are Brembo blanks then machined with drills or slots by independant companies here in the States (they lead you to believe Brembo drilled the holes in-house, but that's BS). I guess they do a good job, reports have been good.
The last big advantage is that upgraded brakes look sick. They won't look sick with stock sized rotors and large rims, though, whether or not they're drilled and whatnot. People talk about wheel gap, but that's rotor gap :) On another note, painting calipers also looks sick.
Which of the above three are best? I think "none" is a good answer; taking meat off of the rotor is reducing your available braking surface. Unless you have a real reason for them, I'd stick with stock for now.
What else can you do to rotors: Some companies offer zinc washing of your rotors. If it works, that would be snazzy. Not all the washes do work; some tuners members had rusty rotors within months of buying new ones. There's also debate about the zinc washing creating a barrier to heat dissipation, since heat is transferred to the rotor, and then the zinc.
A note on how to install rotors: Most believe proper install is directing the slots and drill pattern in the direction of the wheel, so that heat passage is aided by the forward motion of the car. Instead, look at your rotor from on end and find the fins inside. Orient them in the correct way, they're a little more important. Another note on install... give your pads time to seat in the rotor, don't drive like a crazy person to test your stuff as soon as you finish install. That's how pads light up.
Other good mods to brakes...
1) SS brake lines. These improve brake feel and are the best brake mod for the money.
2) New pads. Pads are made of many different substances (like walnut shells, yum), but performance pads fall under two categories-- plastic/kevlar, or metallic. Metallic pads stop you the quickest, but at the expense of your rotor, the dust buildup, and the noise. Metal Masters are an example. Kevlar is quiet and clean, but not as effective. EBC Greens are an example. Your call-- both are an improvement over stock, and pretty cheap. Another idea is to have a set of DD pads, and a set of track pads. You'd be surprised how fast you can swap pads, once you do it ten times or so... I remember being 10 when my dad would go to the track; he had old pads off and new ones on in 20 minutes. That wasn't even considered fast ;)
3) Speedbleeders. These are a nice way to swap fluid quickly, with one person, and without having to worry about getting air in the lines. You should be sold by now, right? They're cheap, think 15 dollars, maybe less.
4) High temp fluid. At higher temps, fluid can boil. That's just as bad as air in your lines. I believe it's Ford that sells a nice product on this for cheap, but Motul and others sell the same stuff for more money. Check 1000aaq and other dsm sites for the Ford brake fluid info. Like slotting, this is more a track mod.
5) Proportioning valves. These are to change up bias after you did a swap that favored front or rear. Again, not necessary for most.
Harder core brake mods...
1) New calipers. Usually, only the front. Baer and AEM sell setups. The Baer setup also come with larger rotors, SS lines, and pads. I imagine the AEM does, too. Think 5-600 dollars. These also need 17" rims or larger to clear.
2) Big calipers, 13" two piece rotors, and etc. These are really for the track. They cut a huge amount of weight, too. I've seen a new StopTech setup run for 3000, but a used Wilwood setup for 500. That's a deal. These also need 17" rims or larger to clear.
My offer...
A lot of butt dyno's show huge gains with slotted and drilled rotors, but I'm not a believer. There should be gains, but not terribly large ones, at least at normal temperatures. I'm wondering if it's just a matter of bad stock rotors then swapped for anything new, or a psychological thing. Or that I'm missing something ;) Either way, we don't accept butt dyno numbers for HP, why do it for brakes. If I ever negotiate to get the GSx back from my ex, I'll warm up the brakes and average a couple 100-0 and 60-0 stop patterns with my Baer setup. If someone wants to do the same with their slotted and drilled setup, that would be cool. My car is 100 pounds under stock and where I live we have 70+% humidity and 90 degree weather... it probably won't be hard to duplicate those variables. If anyone is up to put down some real numbers, let me know.
Rotors:
Rotors are the stopping surface that pads grip during breaking. You can buy them larger than stock, but not much larger, or you'll need new caliper brackets. So, if we want to improve braking and we can't get larger rotors, what do we do...
1) Dimpling is poking concave recesses below the rotor surface, but not all the way through the rotor.
2) Drilling is creating holes in the rotor; in one way, out the other
3) Slotting is making slots in a rotor. These fan out from the center to the circumference of the rotor at an angle.
All of the above are designed to dissipate heat. When your brakes get hot, they don't brake as well. They can even get hot enough to light pads on fire and turn rotors purple (how cool would that be). Most of us don't get our brakes very hot, and since dissipation is exponential, we don't see large gains from any of the three above. But, the good news is that you'll never feel your brakes get sloppy going driving down the mountain from your next snowboarding trip :) Or that damn mountain in Yosemite.
Slotting has another advantage, and disadvantage. The Good: Slotting not only removes heat, but keeps a nice friction surface for the pad. The Bad: It does this by slicing a tiny portion off the surface of the pad. It adds up over time and your pad life is dimminished.
Cracking is a big issue. Rotors that are dimpled, drilled, and slotted, are more likely to crack. If they crack, they're worse than a stock rotor, and need to be replaced quickly. In order from most to least likely to crack: drilled, slotted, dimpled, stock.
A note on Brembo rotors: From the consensus of accounts, these crack less often. It's worth noting that almost all of these are Brembo blanks then machined with drills or slots by independant companies here in the States (they lead you to believe Brembo drilled the holes in-house, but that's BS). I guess they do a good job, reports have been good.
The last big advantage is that upgraded brakes look sick. They won't look sick with stock sized rotors and large rims, though, whether or not they're drilled and whatnot. People talk about wheel gap, but that's rotor gap :) On another note, painting calipers also looks sick.
Which of the above three are best? I think "none" is a good answer; taking meat off of the rotor is reducing your available braking surface. Unless you have a real reason for them, I'd stick with stock for now.
What else can you do to rotors: Some companies offer zinc washing of your rotors. If it works, that would be snazzy. Not all the washes do work; some tuners members had rusty rotors within months of buying new ones. There's also debate about the zinc washing creating a barrier to heat dissipation, since heat is transferred to the rotor, and then the zinc.
A note on how to install rotors: Most believe proper install is directing the slots and drill pattern in the direction of the wheel, so that heat passage is aided by the forward motion of the car. Instead, look at your rotor from on end and find the fins inside. Orient them in the correct way, they're a little more important. Another note on install... give your pads time to seat in the rotor, don't drive like a crazy person to test your stuff as soon as you finish install. That's how pads light up.
Other good mods to brakes...
1) SS brake lines. These improve brake feel and are the best brake mod for the money.
2) New pads. Pads are made of many different substances (like walnut shells, yum), but performance pads fall under two categories-- plastic/kevlar, or metallic. Metallic pads stop you the quickest, but at the expense of your rotor, the dust buildup, and the noise. Metal Masters are an example. Kevlar is quiet and clean, but not as effective. EBC Greens are an example. Your call-- both are an improvement over stock, and pretty cheap. Another idea is to have a set of DD pads, and a set of track pads. You'd be surprised how fast you can swap pads, once you do it ten times or so... I remember being 10 when my dad would go to the track; he had old pads off and new ones on in 20 minutes. That wasn't even considered fast ;)
3) Speedbleeders. These are a nice way to swap fluid quickly, with one person, and without having to worry about getting air in the lines. You should be sold by now, right? They're cheap, think 15 dollars, maybe less.
4) High temp fluid. At higher temps, fluid can boil. That's just as bad as air in your lines. I believe it's Ford that sells a nice product on this for cheap, but Motul and others sell the same stuff for more money. Check 1000aaq and other dsm sites for the Ford brake fluid info. Like slotting, this is more a track mod.
5) Proportioning valves. These are to change up bias after you did a swap that favored front or rear. Again, not necessary for most.
Harder core brake mods...
1) New calipers. Usually, only the front. Baer and AEM sell setups. The Baer setup also come with larger rotors, SS lines, and pads. I imagine the AEM does, too. Think 5-600 dollars. These also need 17" rims or larger to clear.
2) Big calipers, 13" two piece rotors, and etc. These are really for the track. They cut a huge amount of weight, too. I've seen a new StopTech setup run for 3000, but a used Wilwood setup for 500. That's a deal. These also need 17" rims or larger to clear.
My offer...
A lot of butt dyno's show huge gains with slotted and drilled rotors, but I'm not a believer. There should be gains, but not terribly large ones, at least at normal temperatures. I'm wondering if it's just a matter of bad stock rotors then swapped for anything new, or a psychological thing. Or that I'm missing something ;) Either way, we don't accept butt dyno numbers for HP, why do it for brakes. If I ever negotiate to get the GSx back from my ex, I'll warm up the brakes and average a couple 100-0 and 60-0 stop patterns with my Baer setup. If someone wants to do the same with their slotted and drilled setup, that would be cool. My car is 100 pounds under stock and where I live we have 70+% humidity and 90 degree weather... it probably won't be hard to duplicate those variables. If anyone is up to put down some real numbers, let me know.
toicy4ya
07-03-2005, 06:31 PM
sloted rotors are designed to heat up the breakpads, they double function as gas extractors. the best type of gas extracting rotors are drilled/ventilated disk style.
Scott is that what they're called, drilled/ventilated disk style?
Scott is that what they're called, drilled/ventilated disk style?
emoontheinside
07-05-2005, 01:28 AM
Since we're on the topic of Brakes, I was curious if anyone could help me. I drive a 97 Eclipse GS, automatic, 104k miles, with 17" rims and the stock brake system. I just replaced the pads on the front and the front left caliper back in February, which is maybe 2k miles ago, tops. The rear are drum brakes, however I'll be taking the car to a mechanic to look at those because I have no idea how they work or how to fix them. Now I live in NY, in a pretty hilly area, so my brakes get some decent use. However, I've noticed that the pedal seems to get squishy sometimes. Like once in a while it'll take me an extra long amount of time to stop even when I have the pedal fully depressed. This is just at regular driving speeds, not even above 55mph. Since traveling time is upon us, I was wondering what I could do to improve the performance. I've thought about getting steel braided hoses and then draining the fluid while I've got the hoses off. The pads are semi-metallic and the rotors have no signs of uneven wear. Is it normal for the brakes to wear like this all of the sudden? I'm pretty sure that the rotors were replaced by the previous owner, but not positive. What is my best option to at least get back up to normal braking power? How much is it going to cost? Would it be cheaper to just go ahead and replace everything now? Does it have more to do with the drum brakes in back?
drdisque
07-07-2005, 12:12 AM
yes, you could have a bulge in a brake line and it might be expanding like a check valve on occasion
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