Questions?

My turn signal is not broken(I can still use turn signals) but it wont click back in to the brights when I click to go in the brights the lo-blems turn off briefly. For now I have my brights on all the time, so is it broken and need to be replaced or is just a screw loose.

try to turn your brights on and off when you tilt and hold the steering back all the way...if so i might know whats wrong

like he said, tilt the steering wheel as far as u can forward (as in the top goes up and forward) and then try to click it, i have the same problem and got a ticket for it, don't drive w/ brights on all the time. cost me 90 bucks in the ticket...

thank god people get tickets for driving with the high beams on, thats one of my biggest pet peves. :)

sounds like it could be a bad electrical connection. which could be inside the switch. hard to say for sure without diagnosing it.

I can's turn off my brights until I get the car fixed sometime this week or I will not be able to drive at night. But I will try that before I buy a new turn signal.

Instead of starting a new thread let me incorporate this question into this one. Is there a battery too powerful to put in a camaro or any other car. I'm tring to run all HP Sliver Star lighting and I was told I need a certain amount of battery amps to do this, But on top of that I have 1000 watt system and a auto zone horn button that runs directly to the postive link on my battery which drains power also. I need the best battery to power a capaitor and stop my head lights from blinking.

you don't need a better battery... you need a better alternator...

I have 2 amps and a 1-farad capacitor. biggest improvement was made from new alternator (after the old one was overloaded and fell apart, literally). factory alternator pushes 60-75amps. I put in 100amp alternator... wonderfull! bass hit harder, no dimming headlights, no dead battery, nothing. it even charged my capacitor.
now i have a 150amp alternator. i think i can power a small house now.

sidenote: also... if you want good sound in your house too, buy a Onkyo or Harman Kardon stereo/surround reciever because they are both high current recievers (except the <$250 ones). this has the same effect in your home as it does in your car. these recievers deliver better sound at lower wattage ratings compared to most others. Too high of voltage, in car (i.e more than 14volts) or too high wattage in (stereo reciever) can cause excessive heat and damage to other components (i.e blown speakers, failed automotive electrical circuits). In case you're wondering... I sell electronics.

Get alternator, keep battery.

you don't need a better battery... you need a better alternator...

I have 2 amps and a 1-farad capacitor. biggest improvement was made from new alternator (after the old one was overloaded and fell apart, literally). factory alternator pushes 60-75amps. I put in 100amp alternator... wonderfull! bass hit harder, no dimming headlights, no dead battery, nothing. it even charged my capacitor.
now i have a 150amp alternator. i think i can power a small house now.

sidenote: also... if you want good sound in your house too, buy a Onkyo or Harman Kardon stereo/surround reciever because they are both high current recievers (except the <$250 ones). this has the same effect in your home as it does in your car. these recievers deliver better sound at lower wattage ratings compared to most others. Too high of voltage, in car (i.e more than 14volts) or too high wattage in (stereo reciever) can cause excessive heat and damage to other components (i.e blown speakers, failed automotive electrical circuits). In case you're wondering... I sell electronics.

Get alternator, keep battery.

That would have be the first thing I thought but when I brought the car the guy had brought a new alternator plus he had a sound system in the car so I'm figuring he brought a more high power alternator if not I guess I will do something to fix it. I will buy the cap first then see if it still does this. As for the sound system I have it all set up I had time to upgrade. I have two mtx 12's custom box with the MXA6001 amp and for my high's I have a 4 ch Mtx 302 amp. Anything better then that my hatch window will break.

Hey kev... what do you think on this one? 105 amp duralast gold?? for what looks like 50
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7980408129&category=33573

you can put in as powerful a battery as you want with no damage to the car. in the off chance that there is enough power in the battery to damage anything, your fuses with blow to protect everything, but i dont think youll encounter that problem.

I would check the model number on the alternator you have now... it's probably not a better alternator. If your lights still blink... it's not. A lot of people with stereos don't know to get a better alternator. So i wouldn't assume he got a better one... with used cars you always want to assume the last person didn't do the job right. Don't put too much faith in people you don't really know.

I was just saying that even if you went with a bigger battery it wouldn't solve your problem, cause you can still drain the battery and the lights still will dim when the bass hits.

That alternator is the exact same one that I upgraded to the first time. It solved the problems.
I would check stores for prices, cause I'm pretty sure I paid about $60-70 at autozone for it. the price difference isn't enough to make it worth it to wait a week for shipping and risk having problems buying from someone who has no feedback rating at all, like the guy who is selling that one.

Ok.... I'm looking at a ac delco alt 180 amps. But it says I need a 4 gauge wire what is that or is that the speaker wire because I already have a 4 gauge wire. Also what is a core charge

4 guage is pretty big, and core charge means they want your old alternator back so they can rebuild it and sell it and if you dont give it to them they will charge you with the core charge untill you give them the old one. so if you want your old one your gonna pay and extra 30 dollars or whatever the core charge might be

thank god people get tickets for driving with the high beams on, thats one of my biggest pet peves. :)

sounds like it could be a bad electrical connection. which could be inside the switch. hard to say for sure without diagnosing it.


my car used to be so lame that i could drive with brights on and people driving past me couldn't tell (asked on the phone)

:/

I literally only saw like 20 feet with low's on and maybe 50 feet with brights