92 Caravan Won'T Turnover/Start
CarBob
06-18-2005, 06:10 PM
I screwed up! I was trying to troubleshoot my air conditioner, so I tried to jumper the relay I thought was the connection (relay) for the compressor. Well, I tried something on the wrong side. I jumpered some of the relays on the driver's side of the engine compartment. I know this was stupid, but that is beside the point right now. Now I can't get the van to start! I have troubleshooted the electrical system, but can't seem to find the problem. I have replaced the starter relay, the engine computer, and the ignition switch, but it still won't start. Yes the battery is good. I get power, chimes, lights, and can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key to the start position, but it just won't start. It won't even try to crank. I know it's not the starter/stolenoid, because I can make that kick over either by jumpering the connector at the relay or jumpeing the starter directly from the battery. If I do either of those things, the van starts and runs fine. I just can't get it start through use of the ignition switch. Electrical is obviously a weak spot for me. I could use some help. Any suggestions? Thanks.
R/Bob
R/Bob
bruc
06-19-2005, 01:22 AM
I screwed up! I was trying to troubleshoot my air conditioner, so I tried to jumper the relay I thought was the connection (relay) for the compressor. Well, I tried something on the wrong side. I jumpered some of the relays on the driver's side of the engine compartment. I know this was stupid, but that is beside the point right now. Now I can't get the van to start! I have troubleshooted the electrical system, but can't seem to find the problem. I have replaced the starter relay, the engine computer, and the ignition switch, but it still won't start. Yes the battery is good. I get power, chimes, lights, and can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key to the start position, but it just won't start. It won't even try to turn over. I know it's not the starter/stolenoid, because I can make that kick over either by jumpering the connector at the relay or jumpeing the starter directly from the battery. If I do either of those things, the van starts and runs fine. I just can't get it sto start through use of the ignition switch. Electrical is obviously a weak spot for me. I could use some help. Any suggestions? Thanks.
R/Bob
I'll get this mess figured out yet...
If you look at the wiring harness on the drivers side nextr to the fender, you might notice the fusible links partially protruding from the wiring harness.
Therein lies your problem.
Find the bad wire, juice on one side and not the other and you will find your problem.
R/Bob
I'll get this mess figured out yet...
If you look at the wiring harness on the drivers side nextr to the fender, you might notice the fusible links partially protruding from the wiring harness.
Therein lies your problem.
Find the bad wire, juice on one side and not the other and you will find your problem.
CarBob
06-19-2005, 11:57 AM
I'll get this mess figured out yet...
If you look at the wiring harness on the drivers side nextr to the fender, you might notice the fusible links partially protruding from the wiring harness.
Therein lies your problem.
Find the bad wire, juice on one side and not the other and you will find your problem.
I've looked at those, but I'm still not ruling them out. I removed the plastic cover from that entire harness to trace the wires. How many of them are fusible links? I know there's more than one, but I only saw one specifically labeled as such. Also, I didn't notice any physical damage to any of the wires/links. Would there be? I'll take another look. Oh, one more thing. Could the problem be anything to do with the auto shutdown relay (ASD)? If that was shot would the car not be able to crank? Thanks.
If you look at the wiring harness on the drivers side nextr to the fender, you might notice the fusible links partially protruding from the wiring harness.
Therein lies your problem.
Find the bad wire, juice on one side and not the other and you will find your problem.
I've looked at those, but I'm still not ruling them out. I removed the plastic cover from that entire harness to trace the wires. How many of them are fusible links? I know there's more than one, but I only saw one specifically labeled as such. Also, I didn't notice any physical damage to any of the wires/links. Would there be? I'll take another look. Oh, one more thing. Could the problem be anything to do with the auto shutdown relay (ASD)? If that was shot would the car not be able to crank? Thanks.
CrissCross
06-21-2005, 10:56 AM
Did you happen to find your problem?
Could you give me more information on where the fuseable links are at.
I checked and I get almost 12 volts to the coil when you turn the key on then almost instantly I loose the voltage as if the autoshut down is getting enganged. I replaced the autoshutdown relay and this did not help.
Any information that you can provide would be great. Thanks.
Could you give me more information on where the fuseable links are at.
I checked and I get almost 12 volts to the coil when you turn the key on then almost instantly I loose the voltage as if the autoshut down is getting enganged. I replaced the autoshutdown relay and this did not help.
Any information that you can provide would be great. Thanks.
CarBob
06-21-2005, 02:04 PM
[QUOTE=CrissCross]Did you happen to find your problem?
Could you give me more information on where the fuseable links are at.
I still haven't solved my starting problem. I was hoping someone on this board would be able to help. As for the fusible links, they are located in the wiring harness that goes from the relays and runs long the fender wall on the driver's side of the engine compartment. If you remove the plastic covering that's on the bundle of wires, you will see them.
Could you give me more information on where the fuseable links are at.
I still haven't solved my starting problem. I was hoping someone on this board would be able to help. As for the fusible links, they are located in the wiring harness that goes from the relays and runs long the fender wall on the driver's side of the engine compartment. If you remove the plastic covering that's on the bundle of wires, you will see them.
CrissCross
06-21-2005, 02:12 PM
Ok I will check that out. If I find any thing or a SOLUTION I will let you know.
Hope fully I can find something for ya. lol :)
Hope fully I can find something for ya. lol :)
danju1
06-23-2005, 03:18 PM
Sounds like you have done a lot of replacing parts. I had the same problem with my sister in laws car. Diferent breed of car but maybe worht a try. If you know how to hot wire the van , try bypassing the ignition switch. you don't have to remove the switch, yet -just the wiring connector from the back of the switch. In her case, I checked all the wiring in her car - turned out that it was the ignition module not the tumbler assembly. Might be worht a try.
Thanks Dan
Thanks Dan
Cobra_Sam
06-25-2005, 09:32 AM
I've looked at those, but I'm still not ruling them out. I removed the plastic cover from that entire harness to trace the wires. How many of them are fusible links? I know there's more than one, but I only saw one specifically labeled as such. Also, I didn't notice any physical damage to any of the wires/links. Would there be? I'll take another look. Oh, one more thing. Could the problem be anything to do with the auto shutdown relay (ASD)? If that was shot would the car not be able to crank? Thanks.
I think you are on the right track (ASD) you may have fried it.
I think you are on the right track (ASD) you may have fried it.
CrissCross
06-26-2005, 09:26 AM
Ok News Update:
I checked all the fuseable links and did not find any thing. I went and got a chilton manual so that I could get the wireing spec and found that the black wire with the blue stripe is ground so I checked so I checked resistance to a ground strap and every point where I could find this black wire with blue strip. I found that with the CrankShaft Position sensor disconnected that the resistance went down to like 3 Ohms and with it connect was like 11 or 12 Ohms So I ordered a Crank Shaft Position Sensor I will replace it latter today and will let you all know the out come.
I checked all the fuseable links and did not find any thing. I went and got a chilton manual so that I could get the wireing spec and found that the black wire with the blue stripe is ground so I checked so I checked resistance to a ground strap and every point where I could find this black wire with blue strip. I found that with the CrankShaft Position sensor disconnected that the resistance went down to like 3 Ohms and with it connect was like 11 or 12 Ohms So I ordered a Crank Shaft Position Sensor I will replace it latter today and will let you all know the out come.
CarBob
07-05-2005, 05:18 AM
Ok News Update:
I checked all the fuseable links and did not find any thing. I went and got a chilton manual so that I could get the wireing spec and found that the black wire with the blue stripe is ground so I checked so I checked resistance to a ground strap and every point where I could find this black wire with blue strip. I found that with the CrankShaft Position sensor disconnected that the resistance went down to like 3 Ohms and with it connect was like 11 or 12 Ohms So I ordered a Crank Shaft Position Sensor I will replace it latter today and will let you all know the out come.
I fixed it! After checking the battery, starter, all the relays, fuses, fusible links, ignition switch, and the engine controller (computer), it turned out simply (I say that now) to be the neutral safety switch. This $13 part, which is mounted on the transmission to keep the car from starting in any gear other than park or neutral, was shot. The one I had in there was the original switch, so I could have coincidentally blew at the time I was monkeying around because of its age. However, I most likely blew it when I jumpered the starter relay wiring since there is a wire coming out of that harness that leads to the neutral safety switch. In retrospect, I can't believe I overlooked something so simple. To my own defense though, neither of my manuals, Haynes or Chilton included this switch in the troubleshooting of starting problems. They kind of did, but not very directly. It would have helped had it been part of a decision tree diagram. Anyway, problem solved! Thanks for everyone's replies.
Epilogue: After finally fixing this problem, I sold this van over the past weekend. It was still a great reliable vehicle, but I had bought a new Grand Caravan SXT a few months back and I didn't need three vans in my driveway (I have a 98 Grand Caravan SE that I'll be selling for the same reason). I was the original owner (as with all my vans) and I will miss having it around. I have done all of my own routine maintenance on it and most of any repairs it has needed. I'll still watch these boards from time, and if I can be of assistance I'll gladly volunteer my two cents. Otherwise, email me if any of you have troubleshooting questions pertaining Chrysler minivans. I'll help if I can. Take care.
R/Bob
I checked all the fuseable links and did not find any thing. I went and got a chilton manual so that I could get the wireing spec and found that the black wire with the blue stripe is ground so I checked so I checked resistance to a ground strap and every point where I could find this black wire with blue strip. I found that with the CrankShaft Position sensor disconnected that the resistance went down to like 3 Ohms and with it connect was like 11 or 12 Ohms So I ordered a Crank Shaft Position Sensor I will replace it latter today and will let you all know the out come.
I fixed it! After checking the battery, starter, all the relays, fuses, fusible links, ignition switch, and the engine controller (computer), it turned out simply (I say that now) to be the neutral safety switch. This $13 part, which is mounted on the transmission to keep the car from starting in any gear other than park or neutral, was shot. The one I had in there was the original switch, so I could have coincidentally blew at the time I was monkeying around because of its age. However, I most likely blew it when I jumpered the starter relay wiring since there is a wire coming out of that harness that leads to the neutral safety switch. In retrospect, I can't believe I overlooked something so simple. To my own defense though, neither of my manuals, Haynes or Chilton included this switch in the troubleshooting of starting problems. They kind of did, but not very directly. It would have helped had it been part of a decision tree diagram. Anyway, problem solved! Thanks for everyone's replies.
Epilogue: After finally fixing this problem, I sold this van over the past weekend. It was still a great reliable vehicle, but I had bought a new Grand Caravan SXT a few months back and I didn't need three vans in my driveway (I have a 98 Grand Caravan SE that I'll be selling for the same reason). I was the original owner (as with all my vans) and I will miss having it around. I have done all of my own routine maintenance on it and most of any repairs it has needed. I'll still watch these boards from time, and if I can be of assistance I'll gladly volunteer my two cents. Otherwise, email me if any of you have troubleshooting questions pertaining Chrysler minivans. I'll help if I can. Take care.
R/Bob
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