cv boot

i have to replace my cv boot on my car and i was gonna do it myself but instead of using an oem boot i was gonna use a universal one b/c its easier. is a universal one much less reliable than an oem one?

go get yourself a new axle. with the hassle of taking out the axle to replace the cv boot, you can already have a new axle in. the cv boot is gonna rip again. it ripped because of the joints. just replace the axle.

unless you like repulling out the axle, then replace the boot.

go get yourself a new axle. with the hassle of taking out the axle to replace the cv boot, you can already have a new axle in. the cv boot is gonna rip again. it ripped because of the joints. just replace the axle.

unless you like repulling out the axle, then replace the boot.
:iagree:

Is it an OEM axel to begin with? If it is and it's still in good shap3e, I'd rather go trhough the hassel of replacing the boot. Most aftermarket re-manned axles are a POS, and many of those brands also make "new" axels that also suck. If you have an OEM axel in good shape, no clicking when you turn, the cvjoin is in good shape, I'd re-boot it...I've seen some absolute crap from the aftermarket...Unless your going with a high end racing aftermarket upgrade (Enjo, TCI, etc), re-boot it or buy an OEM axel in good shape from a junkyard. I re-booted an axel on my old motor when the cv boot was torn. The CV joint and axle where in good shape other than the boot, no use replacing a prefectly good OEM axle whenall it needed was a new boot. The bioot didn't terar because the joint was bad...many things can cause a boot to tear. If the boot tears and dirt and grime gets into the joint, then the joint is bad...because the tear allowed the dirt in. If this is the case it will make a clicking sound when you turn. If it doesn't click chances are it's still fine.

When I re-booted mine, it turned out fine too It didn't take terribly long at all; maybe an hour or two...wasn't bad. It wasn't hard, and was better than replacing it with aftermarekt junk, that was for sure. That's my 2 cents. :2cents:

Is it an OEM axel to begin with? If it is and it's still in good shap3e, I'd rather go trhough the hassel of replacing the boot. Most aftermarket re-manned axles are a POS, and many of those brands also make "new" axels that also suck. If you have an OEM axel in good shape, no clicking when you turn, the cvjoin is in good shape, I'd re-boot it...I've seen some absolute crap from the aftermarket...Unless your going with a high end racing aftermarket upgrade (Enjo, TCI, etc), re-boot it or buy an OEM axel in good shape from a junkyard. I re-booted an axel on my old motor when the cv boot was torn. The CV joint and axle where in good shape other than the boot, no use replacing a prefectly good OEM axle whenall it needed was a new boot. The bioot didn't terar because the joint was bad...many things can cause a boot to tear. If the boot tears and dirt and grime gets into the joint, then the joint is bad...because the tear allowed the dirt in. If this is the case it will make a clicking sound when you turn. If it doesn't click chances are it's still fine.

When I re-booted mine, it turned out fine too It didn't take terribly long at all; maybe an hour or two...wasn't bad. It wasn't hard, and was better than replacing it with aftermarekt junk, that was for sure. That's my 2 cents. :2cents:

ive used the autozone remanufactured axles. still good after 4 years. theres also a lifetime warranty on it. i can break as many as i want. not bad for $140.

ive used the autozone remanufactured axles. still good after 4 years. theres also a lifetime warranty on it. i can break as many as i want. not bad for $140.

$140??? Thats pretty high for a re-man. A re-man shouldn't be more than $75-99 plus a core charge...whihc should be refunded as soon as you replace it and bring back the old core.

Stil, Il don't trust them. There are so many fly uy night axel companies, and they are all different.Autozone, Baxters, Shucks, Napa, Discount Import Auto....they all use different brands axels. I know of re-mans lasting okay, bu there are some BAD re-mans. Whens the last time you saw a OEM axel that should be "good" be junk? I have seen them last and seen them BAD. I needed a new boot on my OEM pass. side LS axel, and had to work so a former "buddy" said he'd do it. Jerk took my OEM axel and kept it, put on some crap aftermarket brand. Had like 25 miles on it, sounded bad, torn boot in 5 places...on a "new" re-man. Sure, it had a "lifetime warrenty on it." I got the reciept too so I could "replace" it. I didn;t want to put that junk on my car. Did some research and found out about that company. Bad news...said screw it and looked into buying a junkyard OEM for $45.

There are some things I will never screw around with cheap stuff on...find the best deal on good products...

a)suspension

b)brakes

c)electrical...alternator, distrubtor, starter, etc.

I mean, I know of people with "lifetime warrenty" aftermarket distributors. After the thing failed for the 4th time in a year, the warrenty ment crap. They got SICK of replacing it. What good is a warrenty when the product was so bad you HAD to keep sing it and re-placing it. Sure, an OEM one costed more...and didn't have a "warrenty." In the end however, it lasted...so the "warrenty" didn't matter...wasn't needed.

If someone want to use parts like that, more power to them. I know thre can be okay re-mans, but for me i'ts not worht the chance, espeically on something so important.

As I said, there are a few things I will never take a chance with cheap stuff on....and axels is one. Besides...why pay $140 for a re-man when you can find a good used OEM one from a junkyard (just like you'd use n a swap) for $45-80 (price depends on how hard you look).

:2cents:

[qoute] why pay $140 for a re-man when you can find a good used OEM one from a junkyard (just like you'd use n a swap) for $45-80 (price depends on how hard you look).
[qoute]

definately depends on how hard and where you look.

the axles were $140 with a $65 core charge (autozone).

i dont have complaints with my remans. only for the starters and alternators though. little weaker than the oem specs, but, they still get the job done.

i dont have complaints with my remans. only for the starters and alternators though. little weaker than the oem specs, but, they still get the job done.

Well, for me they don't, but OEM doesn't even do the job for me with alternators. I pull too much ampre current, I needed more. My OEM was good and fine, nothing wrong with it. But for the power I pull, it just didn't pull enough current. The B18B1 alternator puts outs out like 80 or 90 amps. I needed a lot more, I needed a high output alternator, which is what I got. I went with a little extra to be safe. I run a 160 ampre 180 ampre hot rate high output Ohio Generator alternator. Thats the biggest they make they will bolt right on to the motor. Needed a 4 gauge charge wire and a smaller belt, but that wasn't a biggie.

I really would have gone bigger, but didn't want to mess with a custom install in a custom location.

Also, did that $140 include the core charge or was the core on top of that, because thats a lot more than the autozones around here if that didn't include the core. Thats more like what they charge here with the core charge...(which doesn't matter really since u get it back as long as u bring the old core back.)