Is this the BEST CLEAR COAT over decals?

Well is Mr. Hobby Topcoat by Gunze Sangyo or also known as Mr. Top Coat the best clear coat to apply over decals? I have searched and not many results have came up. As Sennake says in his thread here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=380164&page=3&pp=15&highlight=porsche)
No way. Tamiya Clear TS-13 ruins your decals. I have been searching for a good clear in spraycans for over 10 years, and I finally found it :

Mr. Hobby Topcoat by Gunze Sangyo is a brand new and perfect product. It comes in spraycans, it is absolutely clear without becoming yellow and it is harmless on any kind of undercoat or decals.

I tested it for the first time on my Celica, then on my Subaru and now on the Porsche. It's a sweet product that I'm gonna buy a lot of in the future...

I'm going to apply a lot of decals on my skyline which had TS-13 (clear) sprayed over the paint. Is it ok to have Tamiya clear, then decals over it, then another coat of Mr. Hobby Topcoat without any probelms?

Well is Mr. Hobby Topcoat by Gunze Sangyo or also known as Mr. Top Coat the best clear coat to apply over decals? I have searched and not many results have came up. As Sennake says in his thread here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=380164&page=3&pp=15&highlight=porsche)


I'm going to apply a lot of decals on my skyline which had TS-13 (clear) sprayed over the paint. Is it ok to have Tamiya clear, then decals over it, then another coat of Mr. Hobby Topcoat without any probelms?
Yeah I've used it and its great stuff. Goes over Tamiya stuff perfectly.
Future or Johnsons Klear is great over decals aswell.

Cheers

Farrokh

I was about to clear coat my subaru with TS-13 over decals - does this really ruin them?

my tamiya porsche taisan decals came out clean.
just dont use it on fujimi decals since they are quite sensitive.

just to be safe, spray it in small amounts.
of course the best thing you can do is experiment with scrap part first.

My experience is that you can use any clearcoat over any decals - IF you apply several very light coats first. Most spray can nozzles dont allow you to apply the light coats I'm referring to, as they dont atomize the paint well enough, and dont control the volume of paint.

BTW you do have to observe the general rules of not putting a hotter paint on top of a cooler one, so, my first statement isnt completely true.

BTW you do have to observe the general rules of not putting a hotter paint on top of a cooler one, so, my first statement isnt completely true.

At the risk of sounding stupid how do you define "hotter and cooler" paints?

I'm not sure what you mean.

Not sure of the specifis, but 'cool' paints will not affect the plastic of the model. Tamiya lacquers are cool, and an be sprayed right on to bare plastic.

'Hot' paints need some kind of primer barrier over the plastic or their solvents can melt or otherwise damage it. Most automotive paints are like this.

Not sure if this applies to the decal issue, but if you don't put Tamiya clear over Tamiya lacquer within an hour of the last wet coat, you have to wait about a month, otherwise the difference in curing times between the paint and the clear can cause the clear to crack.

'hot' paints have solvents that can effect the finish on 'cooler' paints that may be underneath. The 'effect' is usually wrinkling and a rough surface.

Generally, the 'hot to cool' scale is: hottest - lacquer, Tamiya sprays, enamel, aqueous or alcohol based paints - coolest

Of course, there can be exceptions to this general rule, so testing on a scrap body is recommended unless you know the paint combo works.

I was about to clear coat my subaru with TS-13 over decals - does this really ruin them?

I would be VERY careful with TS-13, I hate the stuff.. I have just applied TS-13 to a silver basecoat, had no choice, as the silver was dull, so clear coat was the only way to get a shine, and allow me to polish.. I applied my decals afterwards... TS-13 is HOT for sure, I ruined my first mica blue paint job with this stuff..

I applied the clear after about 15 minutes of the final silver coat, aa I have read that you must apply clear almost after the final base coat or wait 7 days, or if you miss that, then 30 days.. It's all so confusing.

I hope my silver paint doesn't start to crack.. Been two weeks now, and looks OK..!!

Just be careful, and use some scrap decals on scrap plastic first to try it out.

So does anybody know what sort of paint this Mr. Top Coat is? Acrylic, Laquer or something else? After seeing Sennake's awesome results I've been itching to get hold of some.

its a Lacquer like all Gunze sprays. but there are a couple of different types such as UV Cut, Super, and Topcoat. my LHS just got these in. ive used the primer including 500, 1000, and Mr.White 1000 and i like them but havent tried the clears though Seneke made me want to.

I'm still confused. Found these two sprays on HLJ. As you can see they call the first one water-soluble? :confused:

http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZB-501

http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZB-513

501 (gloss), 502 (semi-gloss) and 503 (flat) are water soluble acrylic, and are safe to use on decals. 513 is synthetic lacquer just like Tamiya spray.
Both types can be used on decals, but common modeling practice applies to both kinds, because you're essentially moistening the decals with the solution of the paint. Mist coats are a must, regardless of the type of clear you use.

woah... im confused as well because neither of those cans have the same print as the ones at my LHS. im going there tommorrow and i will pick up a can of each to inspect... mind you im in the US and we are going through label issues with Japanese paints right now.

:bump:

Well I mist coated at the weekend over my decals with TS-13 with no adverse reaction. Will wet coat tonight.

I did get a slight bubbling over an air bubble trapped in the decal but disapeared after drying.

I've only ever used TS-13 for sealing masks at the moment but have used a lot of the pearl clear without any problems.

I never heard of the spray clear within 15 mins or wait a month rule.
I use it as soon as I get the time - normally within 2-4 days and I've never had any problems - sounds like a bit of an old wives tale to me!

I never heard of the spray clear within 15 mins or wait a month rule.
I use it as soon as I get the time - normally within 2-4 days and I've never had any problems - sounds like a bit of an old wives tale to me!

It is actually Tamiya's recommendation. Overkill in most cases, but if you experience trouble the guys at the Big T warned you... :lol:

Well I mist coated at the weekend over my decals with TS-13 with no adverse reaction. Will wet coat tonight.

I did get a slight bubbling over an air bubble trapped in the decal but disapeared after drying.

I've only ever used TS-13 for sealing masks at the moment but have used a lot of the pearl clear without any problems.

I never heard of the spray clear within 15 mins or wait a month rule.
I use it as soon as I get the time - normally within 2-4 days and I've never had any problems - sounds like a bit of an old wives tale to me!

Sorry, it was me that mentioned this, as I ruined a mica blue paint job once by applying TS-13 clear too heavy. It burnt the edges of the blue paint, and left white lines showing.. Looked a mess, and many mentioned waiting 30 days. I felt it was way overkill. Just completed a SLK in TS-17, cleared the silver within 15 - 30 mins of the final coat of silver, and was able to polish the clear afterwards, and it looked pretty good. Used more mist coats this time, so I learnt my lesson.

I have heard about TS-13 eating decals though, many times. TBH, I wouldn't do it, too scared to apply it, and hope it doesn't do anything TBH..

Just as an update - I clear coated my scooby last night.
I did about 4 mist coats with TS-123 and then one thick wet coat and the effect was excellent - very happy.
The clear did highlight some small airbubbles trapped in the door fold but a pin prick took care of those!

:BUMP:

Wanted to see if anyone used it and anyone has good results with it.
I'm trying to see if this will work when I sprayed TS-21, then spayed TS-13 (Tamiya Clear). So, is the Gunze Clear compatable to Tamiya clear when decals are on top of tamiya, then gunze is sprayed over decals and tamiya?

Also, back to modeling after having had summer school and I will need to finish my Skyline before I go on a cruise to Cancun!! :smokin:

HELP!! :1zhelp: :1zhelp:

Its fine to spray Gunze over Tamiya and decals. Gunze is an acrylic, Tamiya is a Lacquer. they are compatiable paints. just be sure decals are completely set and Tamiya paint is cured (5-10 days). start with a few mist sprays and let dry for a day or two. then go back and spray your wet coats. Acrylic (gunze) is a much cooler paint then Lacquer (tamiya) and is less likely to harm decals but you still need to use a little caution. but all of this has been said already.

Thanks, now is it safe with Scratch X and wax? and I'm guessing that curing time is about 2-3 weeks since its an acrylic in a can.

yes 2-3 weeks then polish and wax