newest member of the Kick Ass - Torque club with questions?

Yeah, so ive blew most of my college graduation money, but on a good cause, a built ka shortblock and turbo kit from boost designs that should be here this week and next, ill post pics when i get :). The guy that owns it is super cool, and he said this was the last one he was doing because of all the whiney honda bitches that have bought 240's, anyway, im happy he's doing mine :)

So ive got everything i need save for a z32 mafs, gauges, and motor mounts. Ive seen the nismo mounts for about $200. anyone of you got em? im sure some of you guys do, are there any other mounts that are really good, like cusco or kazama? Just feeling out my options, but wiht 350+ hp and lots of torque, i figured it was a good investment.

And ive got a junkyard about 70 miles away that has z32 mafs for $150, anyone have a z32 maf lying around that they want to sell? I think i might need some sort of plug for the z32 maf, not sure if i may be able to use the z32 wire harness plug and splice the wires to teh ka harness or what...

i cant wait to get my parts and join teh uber 1337 so not jdm tighyt club!!111!

thx peace
bopp

I think the reason he's ganna stop is because everyone is complaining that he's doing shit work and his products suck since the merger.

the guy at BD is going to stop doing the deal for 2000$ on the built ka blocks?

I have Nismo engine mounts and tranny mount. Basically the same thing as stock but a lot stronger. They still absorb a lot of vibration. Get something because your stockers will not hold the kind of torque you will be making. Come to think of it, they are prolly already gone.lol they never last.
You can do solid engine mounts, but you really want something that will absorb some vibration if you are gonna be driving on the street. Unless you llike a rough ride everywhere.lol

www.car-part.com has listings for a lot of junkyards. Search there for your Z23 MAFS. I got mine from a yard I found on car-part.com for $107. Just ask them for the plug too when you buy it. It works with splicing. Remember, the J30 MAFS and both turbo and non turbo 90-96 300zx MAFSs work. Just look on the MAFS for the last three digits to say "N62" on the side of the lil box on top of the tube.

lol SR20DETpower.:lol2:

fu and your jdm tyte shit


:banghead:




he said not so JDM tyte. meaning he will NOT be JDM tyte

he said not so JDM tyte. meaning he will NOT be JDM tyte


he knows that.

Just ask them for the plug too when you buy it. It works with splicing. Remember, the J30 MAFS and both turbo and non turbo 90-96 300zx MAFSs work. Just look on the MAFS for the last three digits to say "N62" on the side of the lil box on top of the tube.
Don't you have to change your ECU to run it right? I thought that they were different ohm loads...

Yes you need something to compensate for the 300zx MAFS. I assumed that was a given....

After seeing waht BD has done in the last couple months and never really give any good explanations why. I wouldnt buy a Shift Knob or even a Sticker form them in the case that i might get aids from touching the sticker.

yeah, im getting the ecu flashed (enthalpy tune) for the z32 mafs and 550cc injectors, and using a recirculating bov until i do more fuel management upgrades, but i think it will give me a good place to start off.

as for the jdm tyte stuff, i just think its funny, i dont take it seriously at all, and im not some dumb ricer kid, so dont worry about it.

After seeing waht BD has done in the last couple months and never really give any good explanations why. I wouldnt buy a Shift Knob or even a Sticker form them in the case that i might get aids from touching the sticker.

what is so bad, what did they do?

until i do more fuel management upgrades, but i think it will give me a good place to start off.

What more can you really do? That will support about 350-400whp.

Find my thread Boost Designs = Stallowned

they basically put a pic of an awsome tubular manifold on they're site and then shipped this boat anchor peice of shit that didnt really even fit. then he got kicked off of a couple of sites as a sponser because he doesnt ship shit on time.


Basically you fell into the "its everyone elses fault" tarp that is BD

i cant wait to get my parts and join teh uber 1337 so not jdm tighyt club!!111!

Thats why you have Advan wheels, and kouki taillights right?

Can you be any more hypocritical?

Besides, you should skip the ECU retune, MAF, and all that jazz and get a AEM EMS. You will have a better result, and have the ability to adapt later.

jeez you guys need to take teh chill pills. im just messin around, im building my car as i think it should have been built in the first place, and i love jdm, like my wheels and lights, but just wanted to be different and build the ka, cause all the hype is about swapping the sr around here, like most places.

and besides, like everyone i know, we change our minds all the time about what we are going to do with our cars, because there are soo many options, and at one point, i wanted to put a blacktop in my car and make it as close to a stock 180sx as i could, but my minds changed now, and im using the ka, and im not gonna switch my wheels and lights just because i cant be totally jdm, instead, i just want to build a sweet car.

jeez you guys need to take teh chill pills. im just messin around, im building my car as i think it should have been built in the first place, and i love jdm, like my wheels and lights, but just wanted to be different and build the ka, cause all the hype is about swapping the sr around here, like most places.

and besides, like everyone i know, we change our minds all the time about what we are going to do with our cars, because there are soo many options, and at one point, i wanted to put a blacktop in my car and make it as close to a stock 180sx as i could, but my minds changed now, and im using the ka, and im not gonna switch my wheels and lights just because i cant be totally jdm, instead, i just want to build a sweet car.

You should be building something because you want to do it, not because it's popular or not, but it seems like you are on the same page.

Either way, AEM EMS ... go buy it.

the only thing wiht the ems is that i would have to dyno tune it and do precarious tuning to it that i have little experience doing, and i feel like i will get into that later, after playing around wiht bigger injectors converting to atmospheric bov(for whatever reason) and things like that. I just want a boxed setup that is practically fool proof for now that i can get a good baseline and break the motor in well. with the enthalpy tuned ecu, im paying for all the dyno work and fuel maps that are made for the car with the exact same setup, so it should be about 95% correct for my application, so it seems like money well spent.

it makes things a bit simpler too, as ill have a lot of things to monitor and set, like fuel pressure, wastegate, and hooking up all my gauges and monitoring them. Isnt that aem ems a stand-alone unit? not like the safc's?

The AEM EMS with wideband is only like 2000$+tuning and dyno time, I'm sure he has that in his back pocket.

or like 1000$ and most shops have they're own wideband.

your gonna have to dyno tune an SAFC too.


an AEM is better than an SAFC on so many levels... including the cost.

the only thing wiht the ems is that i would have to dyno tune it and do precarious tuning to it that i have little experience doing, and i feel like i will get into that later, after playing around wiht bigger injectors converting to atmospheric bov(for whatever reason) and things like that. I just want a boxed setup that is practically fool proof for now that i can get a good baseline and break the motor in well. with the enthalpy tuned ecu, im paying for all the dyno work and fuel maps that are made for the car with the exact same setup, so it should be about 95% correct for my application, so it seems like money well spent.

it makes things a bit simpler too, as ill have a lot of things to monitor and set, like fuel pressure, wastegate, and hooking up all my gauges and monitoring them. Isnt that aem ems a stand-alone unit? not like the safc's?

Cool I hear you.

I am just speaking from my own experience.

I now, would much rather spend the $1500 or so on a AEM EMS rather than spend $800 for a setup that I might just be upgrading later down the road.

It does cost more now but in the long run it costs less.

dude, i don't know about u all, but here we don't pay full price for parts. once u spend like 2g on ur car, u get 2 know people w hook ups.

AEMS should be like $800

that pix is soooo funny lol

dude, i don't know about u all, but here we don't pay full price for parts. once u spend like 2g on ur car, u get 2 know people w hook ups.

AEMS should be like $800

AEM EMS is not $800, if it is it's either used or stolen.

Retail on the unit is $2335, there is no such thing as a 66% discount in the aftermarket world.

I regularly attend SEMA as I work in the industry, I know plenty of people.

PhatKA-T price $1681.63 for KA and SR20
also...
Buy an EMS from PK and get a 3bar map sensor, sensor harness, AIT
sensor and sensor harness for FREE... YES FREE...

and the first three googles for "240SX AEM EMS"
"AEM Programmable EMS: 240SX 89-94 ( 30-1600 ) - $1,682.00 - RACERwheel
AEM EMS w/Uego Nissan 89-94 240SX JDM SR20DET Swap - $1,960.00 - istoreparts.com
AEM Plug & Play Programmable EMS: 89-94 Nissan 240SX W/UEGO - $2,112.19 - KID Imports"
I dont know why you would pay more then you need to...2335 is 200+ more then the highest one i found and thats like only 15 seconds of looking. And of course Tuning but...does the SAFC have all this:

Plug & Play Technology - No Wiring Necessary*
Electronic Boost Control
Fuel Table Automapping
2 Step Launch Control
Programmable Traction Control
Uses all the Factory Sensors
Soft Cut Rev Limiters
4 EGT Inputs w/Fuel Control
Fuel Table Automapping
Onboard 512kb Datalogger
Full Idle Control
7 Definable Switch Inputs
Definable Knock Control
Base Maps Included
Wet or Dry Nitrous Control
10 Cyl Sequential Fuel Injection
16/32 Hybrid High-Speed Processor
16 General Purpose Outputs


AEM EMS seems to be the better of the 2 in the long run.

2300 is the MSRP, which means every single website is ganna say "Retail: 2300$ Our price: 1800$" so no one will pay 2300$, but there is no way that it's less then 1000$ either.

I dont know why you would pay more then you need to...2335 is 200+ more then the highest one i found and thats like only 15 seconds of looking.


Yeah, $2335 is MSRP, aka "retail" in the parts business.

of course its better in the long run....but people dont have that much money laying around. Maybe in the long run he will get that much and pay for it..... O yea just spend a grand on this like its nothing....keep in mind how much he just spent to actually get to be able to even use an ems for his turbo setup... i mean he just bought an engine and all the turbo accessories to run it safe.

thats like saying just wait till you have 10 grand and dump it all in the engine so you can have 500 hp and drive it reliably. Sure it may take a while to save up, but it will be cheaper in the long run......lol start small then upgrade, thats what its about, because people are on a limited budget. Dont get me wrong if i just won a million id have the whole thing done up in one shot. But guess what i didnt.

either way, he has a running turbo setup. Ones option is cheaper, but doesnt give optimum output. The other is expensive and can sap out all the hp possible for your setup. Its all a money thing, life sucks. What happen to the barter system??? 2 beaver skins for that ems???

You can use the EMS on a 200hp setup. It's just that you won't need to spend that 2k down the road, just have to retune it. And besides, minus 850$ for the Enthalpy and Z32 MAFS, your at 800$ for the EMS.

of course its better in the long run....but people dont have that much money laying around. Maybe in the long run he will get that much and pay for it..... O yea just spend a grand on this like its nothing....keep in mind how much he just spent to actually get to be able to even use an ems for his turbo setup... i mean he just bought an engine and all the turbo accessories to run it safe.

thats like saying just wait till you have 10 grand and dump it all in the engine so you can have 500 hp and drive it reliably. Sure it may take a while to save up, but it will be cheaper in the long run......lol start small then upgrade, thats what its about, because people are on a limited budget. Dont get me wrong if i just won a million id have the whole thing done up in one shot. But guess what i didnt.

either way, he has a running turbo setup. Ones option is cheaper, but doesnt give optimum output. The other is expensive and can sap out all the hp possible for your setup. Its all a money thing, life sucks. What happen to the barter system??? 2 beaver skins for that ems???

I bet beaver would pull a premium one week before racewars.

You kinda exrapolated what I was trying to get at, but I see your reasoning.

I am just giving him some insight after I put about $15,000 into my S14, and learn a few lessons along the way.

^^^^ true true, but an additional 800 is alot....lol, people have shit to pay for otherwise then pimping out there car. 800 bux in grown up land can go pretty far.
Damn it sux my electric and phone are turned off, but i got a badass ems running my car!!!! lol

but you have to factor in the insatallation and dyno tuning and what not. Unless he's got the hookup on a dyno, and know's how to install, then i could see it being cheaper right away. plus his setup will last him for what ever he wants....its not like he's making a bad choice lol.

I bet beaver would pull a premium one week before racewars.

You kinda exrapolated what I was trying to get at, but I see your reasoning.

I am just giving him some insight after I put about $15,000 into my S14, and learn a few lessons along the way.


yea its all good lol. Of course an ems is better, for obvious reasons lol. Do you have pics of your s14? 15 grand huh, it has to be nice lol. Post up when you get time. thanx.

yea its all good lol. Of course an ems is better, for obvious reasons lol. Do you have pics of your s14? 15 grand huh, it has to be nice lol. Post up when you get time. thanx.

My S14 was nothing special.

* PS13 SR20DET "Redtop" Engine
* PS13 5-Speed Transmission
* Redline Gear Oil
* C's Short Shifter
* Nismo Coppermix Clutch
* Nismo Motor Mounts
* Nismo Transmission Mounts
* Blitz LM Front Mount Intercooler
* Blitz Dual Drive Blow Off Valve
* Enjuku Racing 2.25" Aluminum Hotpipe
* Enjuku Racing Aluminum Intake Pipe
* Z32 MAF Upgrade
* Z32 Apexi Air Filter
* Enthalpy ROM-Tuned ECU
* Greddy NGK Iridium Plugs
* Tomei 3" Stainless Steel 02 Housing
* Generic 3" Stainless Steel Downpipe
* Generic 3" Test Pipe
* 5Zigen Pro-Racer A Spec 3" Catback Exhaust
* Z32 TT Fuel Pump
* Koyo Racing Radiator
* FAL 150 15" Fan with Adjustable Thermostat
* Nismo 1.3 Bar Radiator Cap
* Greddy Water Temp Sensor Adaptor
* Defi Control Unit II
* Defi VSD Concept
* Defi Oil Pressure Sensor for HUD
* Defi Water Temp Sensor for HUD
* Mazda Miata OEM Battery
* EBay Front Strut Bar
* Cusco AS Rear Strut Bar
* Tein HA Dampers
* Kirk Racing 4-Pt. Roll Bar w/ Harness Bar
* Corbeau 3" 5-Pt. Harness
* Cusco Rear Upper Control Arms
* SPL Rear Traction Arms
* SPL Rear Toe Arms
* SPL Tension Rods
* 5Zigen FN01R-C 17x9 +15 - Black - Fronts
* 5Zigen FN01R-C 17x10 +35 - Black - Rears
* Kumho MX 255/40/17
* Kumho MX 285/40/17
* Seibon Carbon Fibre Hood
* SE Front Lip
* SE Rear Spoiler
* ATC Sport Volenti Steering Wheel w/ Hub
* Silvania Silverstar Headlight Bulbs

If you add up all those parts I don't think it would be $15k, but add cost of the car along with parts I had before and it more than likely exceeds $15k.

It's easy to spend money.

My S13 is being built with different priorities in mind.

I wouldn't go for the EMS just for a fun street car. The ECU tunes now avaliable from www.rs-enthalpy.com and JWT are more than capable of handing 500whp setups given the injectors are large enough. Plus Enthalpy offers dyno tuning on his ECUs so no SAFC is needed. You can still run one with a wideband and do street tuning on the fly.

Might I remind you guys that a EMS also requires a laptop to tune... Don't expect a standalone to magically make more power. No doubt it is a good route, but the engine doesn't care how it gets fuel, air, and spark as long as it gets them in the right proportion. ECU tune with injectors is plug and play. Standalone is plug and wait for someone to get time to tune it and tune it well.

MSRP=Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price.

Oh yea, what kind of injectors did you go with elitest? And where's the other transmission mount?;)

Oh yea, what kind of injectors did you go with elitest? And where's the other transmission mount?;)

Yeah, I was just thinking the same thing. lol

I was running stock injectors, and that is supposed to be mount.

I don't think that list is even complete, oh well you get the idea.

Yeah, sounds great, now we need pics!!!! lol

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/icons/icon14.gif

Track car huh? Prolly a lot of fun on the street too!

yeah, considering that i just spent roughly $6,700 on these things:

*re-built short block with supertech pistons, re-conditoned and shot peened rods and crank, and tubular mani and 3" dp, triple layer head gasket, etc.
*stage 2 ported and polished head
*the stage 2 turbo kit which includes t3/t04 .57 trim, .48 a/r exhaust wheel (i think), rc engineering 52lb (550cc) injectors, top feed fuel rail, wallbro pump, adustable fpr, upgraded intercooler, recirculating bov, 38mm external wastegate
*fidanza flywheel
*clutch specialties six puck clutch
*nismo motor mounts
*autometer gauges (egt, a/f, oil pressure, boost)
*z32 mafs
*enthalpy tune ecu

i dont have much more money lying around to throw at it, i just want to get it going well and have fun, then later when i get a good job this summer, have money to really tune it and build the suspension, brakes, and body.

and i still have odds and ends to get, which will probably run a few hundred like all new fluids, oil and fuel filter, plugs and wires, cap, rotor etc, and maybe a water pump, not to mention a few gaskets what will need to be replaced. and i still need to get a radiator! but im running the stock one for the time being.

i just want to get it going well and have fun, then later when i get a good job this summer, have money to really tune it and build the suspension, brakes, and body.

Just want to get it running well, huh? That engine set-up is better than the majority of the cars on this forum. But in the meantime, just hope you dont need to stop to fast or make any sudden turns. BTW congrats on your setup.

.48ar exhaust housing. Wheels are done in trim. And that .48ar is gonna be a major restriction at 300whp. You should just go to a .63ar to accompany those injectors.

Should've scrapped the head porting for cams too.

You'll want a wideband by the end too.

What did you do for head bolts or stud? whichever you chose....

Hotwire the fuel pump too (http://www.ka-t.org/tech)

Yeah, that's a pretty kick ass first step. lol I just hope there are no problems with your BD stuff. And fanatic, what's the diff between head studs and head bolts?

arp main and head studs, and yeah, forgot the a/r was the area to radius ratio on the scroll, which is the housing, not the wheel

and, hmm, as far as hotwiring the fuel pump, i have a few relays from foglights lying around, i wonder if they would work... maybe ill examine them and take pics

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/772000-772999/772010_47_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/772000-772999/772010_48_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/772000-772999/772010_49_full.jpg

heres the inline fuse and relay that i have, by first inspection, looks like it just might work, what do ya think

And fanatic, what's the diff between head studs and head bolts?
Bolt:
http://www.superiorwasher.com/food/images/bolt-and-screw-washers.jpg

Stud:
http://www.rpiv8.com/images/14a-block-and-studs.jpg

The idea behind head studs is it is much easier to turn a single nut as opposed to an entire bolt. Torquing is much more direct IMO. From expirience, you can get a bolt much tighter by holding the bolt and turning the nut. Go try it.

Yes, the relay looks fine. I can't tell what size that fuse is, but a 30amp fuse should do for the fuel pump circuit. The link I gave you should tell you everything. SOLDER AND HEATSHRINK ALL CONNECTIONS!!!

So studs are much better, if I understand.

yep, solder! thx fellas, peace

Yes studs are better. OEM head bolts hold power too though. Duy runs them IIRC since back when he built his KA-T, there wasn't all this support.

Yes studs are better. OEM head bolts hold power too though. Duy runs them IIRC since back when he built his KA-T, there wasn't all this support.

There was, he just was too lazy to make it happen.

ARP makes customs studs, in fact they are making my rod bolts.