Removeing My A.C.
North Side
06-13-2005, 05:12 PM
I want to take out my ac pump being that it does not work and it seems to make my caddi run like a go cart when I turn air on.
Any way I was wondering if this will kill my car?
Do they make Serpintine Belts that will fit after I do this?
have you done this and have some wise words for a guy that just wants to ride cadilac styl3
Any way I was wondering if this will kill my car?
Do they make Serpintine Belts that will fit after I do this?
have you done this and have some wise words for a guy that just wants to ride cadilac styl3
M.A.C
06-13-2005, 10:01 PM
Why remove the A/C? Why not simply bypass the compressor with a shorter belt. Also, you can convert your R12 system to R134a for about $40 assuming you don't have to replace the dryer or other part(s). If the system is depleted then you won't have to worry about removing refrigerant. It might be worth a shot to try.
First thing, however, is check the A/C hoses to see if there is any oily residue indicating a break or something that would be in need of mechanical repair before attempting to convert. If everything looks OK then I would still buy leak detector and stop leak to include with the conversion.
Also, the compressor may simply be low on refrigerant and oil and that's why it sounds rough. If it's low than obviously it leaked out from somewhere. The conversion and stop leak may do the trick and seal the leak. I don't know which belt you need to bypass the compressor, but one way to find out is to use string and wrap it around the pulleys and then measure the length.
First thing, however, is check the A/C hoses to see if there is any oily residue indicating a break or something that would be in need of mechanical repair before attempting to convert. If everything looks OK then I would still buy leak detector and stop leak to include with the conversion.
Also, the compressor may simply be low on refrigerant and oil and that's why it sounds rough. If it's low than obviously it leaked out from somewhere. The conversion and stop leak may do the trick and seal the leak. I don't know which belt you need to bypass the compressor, but one way to find out is to use string and wrap it around the pulleys and then measure the length.
North Side
06-14-2005, 10:53 AM
Why remove the A/C? Why not simply bypass the compressor with a shorter belt. Also, you can convert your R12 system to R134a for about $40 assuming you don't have to replace the dryer or other part(s). If the system is depleted then you won't have to worry about removing refrigerant. It might be worth a shot to try.
First thing, however, is check the A/C hoses to see if there is any oily residue indicating a break or something that would be in need of mechanical repair before attempting to convert. If everything looks OK then I would still buy leak detector and stop leak to include with the conversion.
Also, the compressor may simply be low on refrigerant and oil and that's why it sounds rough. If it's low than obviously it leaked out from somewhere. The conversion and stop leak may do the trick and seal the leak. I don't know which belt you need to bypass the compressor, but one way to find out is to use string and wrap it around the pulleys and then measure the length.
First thanks for the help thats a good Idea about the string....
Now the thing is the compresser's pully is shot a ball baring is toast I think so it spins well then drags and is makeing my engin run like ruuun wuuuurr ruuun wuuur ruun wuur when it idels so I had remembered this problem on an old cutlass supreeme I had but that car did not have a serpintine belt system
just so you know I live in the winter wonderland and AC gets no play round here now if it was my heater Id be trippin
also I want to run this by ya.
When I turn on my ignition there is a moter that is running sounds like a pump for a fish tank you got any Ideas what that is? I seems to be comeing from the fule syestem you ever herd of that?
First thing, however, is check the A/C hoses to see if there is any oily residue indicating a break or something that would be in need of mechanical repair before attempting to convert. If everything looks OK then I would still buy leak detector and stop leak to include with the conversion.
Also, the compressor may simply be low on refrigerant and oil and that's why it sounds rough. If it's low than obviously it leaked out from somewhere. The conversion and stop leak may do the trick and seal the leak. I don't know which belt you need to bypass the compressor, but one way to find out is to use string and wrap it around the pulleys and then measure the length.
First thanks for the help thats a good Idea about the string....
Now the thing is the compresser's pully is shot a ball baring is toast I think so it spins well then drags and is makeing my engin run like ruuun wuuuurr ruuun wuuur ruun wuur when it idels so I had remembered this problem on an old cutlass supreeme I had but that car did not have a serpintine belt system
just so you know I live in the winter wonderland and AC gets no play round here now if it was my heater Id be trippin
also I want to run this by ya.
When I turn on my ignition there is a moter that is running sounds like a pump for a fish tank you got any Ideas what that is? I seems to be comeing from the fule syestem you ever herd of that?
M.A.C
06-15-2005, 09:15 PM
As you noticed, when the bearing starts to seize the belt can get very hot and melt. If water is poured onto a hot pulley it will bead off similar to water on a hot wood stove. When the bearing starts to break apart it can throw off metal fragments so you should be careful when looking at an A/C compressor with a spinning pulley and defective bearing as you don't want to get hit in the eyes with metal fragments—wearing safety glasses is the best advice.
The bearing is inexpensive—about $20-40. I just bought one for my '94 Eldorado for $34 at a Cadillac dealer. I believe an aftermarket bearing will cost a bit less. I’ll probably replace mine this weekend. If you're mechanically inclined you should be able to replace the bearing yourself. The bearing can be pressed out or if you have the right tools it can be carefully tapped out. Alternatively, you could purchase both the pulley and bearing as a unit. For the compressor used with the Northstar engine the unit will cost anywhere from about $110-$190, depending on where you buy it. Removing the pulley requires special tools, which can be rented from an auto parts store.
I know which belt to use to bypass the A/C compressor on a Northstar engine because that's what I did. If your engine is the 4.6L Northstar you can use ACDelco 6K739 or CarQuest No. K060739.
The bearing is inexpensive—about $20-40. I just bought one for my '94 Eldorado for $34 at a Cadillac dealer. I believe an aftermarket bearing will cost a bit less. I’ll probably replace mine this weekend. If you're mechanically inclined you should be able to replace the bearing yourself. The bearing can be pressed out or if you have the right tools it can be carefully tapped out. Alternatively, you could purchase both the pulley and bearing as a unit. For the compressor used with the Northstar engine the unit will cost anywhere from about $110-$190, depending on where you buy it. Removing the pulley requires special tools, which can be rented from an auto parts store.
I know which belt to use to bypass the A/C compressor on a Northstar engine because that's what I did. If your engine is the 4.6L Northstar you can use ACDelco 6K739 or CarQuest No. K060739.
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