Heads

haven't posted on here in a while....

my question is thus: 393 Windsor, stock block, scat crank and rods, probe pistons. I want to run the trick flow twisted wedge type r heads and r-series intake. i've been told that there are problems with the canted valve design in that the angle the intake pushrods operate at causes them to wear excessively on the guideplates. opinions?

also... how long will this combination survive with a mains girdle, 1/4 block fill, and a lifter valley girdle, spinning to 7 grand? not looking for a definite answer.. just opinions. looking at about 600 horse, including spray.

Its not the guideplates, its the valve guides that wear out. Yes, the geometry is very harsh, but effective. Poor design to a point, great design to a point.

Its not the guideplates, its the valve guides that wear out. Yes, the geometry is very harsh, but effective. Poor design to a point, great design to a point.

with this stroke at 6500 or 7000 rpm, the stock block with go out of shape long before the valve guides. so i don't think that'll be an issue.

That is a lot of revs for that engine. You might not even have to go 6500, power band wise?

looking at about 600 horse, including spray.

How much n20 are you planning on? Say a 150 shot for ex. that leaves you needing avg. 450rwhp. You wont have to spin a 393 to 7 grand to hit that number. 6500 at a most I would say. All depends on your heads/cam/intake..for the most part.

after plugging away at the numbers in desktop dyno, i may have a senario where i can spin maybe 6 grand and make lots of power. looking at about 480 horse or so with no spray.... i may leave it at that and not spray at all... i'd like this bottom end to survive, not die with the block. same for the heads and intake. besides, 480 horse with the right trans and gear will do low 12s all day long.... plenty good enough for the bracket racing i do.

Remember what RPMs stand for :D

Ruins People's Motors

Don't buy a valley gridle, biggest waste on money I have ever seen come out for an engine in long time.

Get a '69-'71 block, you won't be likely break it with what you're looking for.

I would avoid the block filling. Why build something just to have cooling problems? There are better options, namely a sportsman block. It'll live at 600 and then some.

Get on the horn with some companies like DSS or Bennett racing, you will learn a lot about what you can do with a block.

The problem TFS had wit valve guides wearing out was due to the geometry and I'm positive that was something that they corrected a couple years ago.

Spinning your 351W over 6,500rpm is a bad idea unless you got all the right parts including a light wieght rotating asembly.

I also agree a lifter valley is useless and ignore that article in 5.0 or MM&FF about it.

Also a main girdle is only good to hold the internals in when you crack the mains don't count on any strength added there. But since you got expensive internals I would use one.

The only significantly stronger 351W block is a 69 with it's thicker main webbing, think 351W sportsman block thickness w/o the 4-bolt mains though...

If you keep it at or below 600hp you'll prob be ok cause a stock 351W usually last here but you could also bust yours cause not all are cast equal.

I was under the impression that the '69-71 windsor blocks all had the higher nickel iron? That's what all the circle-trackers look for back home...Maybe I'm wrong..

You're shooting for 450 HP on motor with a 393 and TFS-R heads? 2 or 3 years ago we had a friends street/strip motor on the dyno, it was an FRPP block with good internals, 11:1 compression, 230/244-ish low lash solid roller, vic jr., 850? holley, 2" headers, with accesories hooked up it made ~570 HP and ~550 torque on an engine dyno. That motor's still running with hundreds of track passes on it, in a 3200 pound notch he runs a 10.4 dial in and it's consistent.

A 480 HP 393 in a 3000 pound notch should do upper 10's all day long. Maybe bottom 12's in a heavy ass lightning, but i'll go way faster than 12's in a well setup car.