Power System Question

ok, so heres my systems...
2, Memphis M3 12” Dual Voice Coil Subwoofers
2, Rockford Fosgate 6x8 Power Component Speaker Systems (totals to 4 speakers, 4 tweeders, and 4 crossovers)
1, Rockford Fosgate P6001 mono amp (powering subs)
1, Rockford Fosgate P4004 4-chanel amp (powering speakers)
1, Poweracoustik 20 farad power capasitor
1, Jensen VM9510 7" monitor head unit
1, Xantrex Marine/RV 3-prong power inverter (powering Xbox)
1, Optima yellowtop Deep Cycle 12v Battery
1, Phoenix Gold Multi-Battery Isolator

theres the system, heres the question. Im powering all that with the deep cycle battery, thats isoloated from the main car battery, but i have the stock alternator going to the islolator, and thus charging both batteries. The stock alternator is for a 2003 Ford Focus ZX3, and I believe it puts out about 120 watts (I could be wrong on that number), my question, am I overworking my alternator, and do I need a more powerfull one, and if so, how powerful/what kind etc? Thanks for the help

you say you work at a shop??

well anyway, trash the cap and alternators arent rated in watts, they are rated in amperes. and im not positive but 120a sounds pretty high for a stock alternator on such a small vehicle.

With that low of a wattage...you shouldn't have a problem. If you have already bought the cap, might as well use it. In the future, just remember a capacitor is a band-aid for a weak electrical system...doesn't help in the long run at all. It's better to invest in a High output alternator, INSTEAD of a capacitor in the beginning.

Order of business for electrical:
1) Big three. Add these three wires in at LEAST 4awg, I use 1/0 wire. Alternator lead to positive battery post, Negative battery post to chassis ground, Negative battery post to engine block ground.
2) Replace stock batter with yellow top.
3)Upgrade alternator, use a reputable High Output Alternator manufacturer. I recommend www.mean-green.com or www.excessiveamperage.com or www.h-oalternators.com
4) Add a second yellow top battery, wire in parallel with existing yellow top battery.

Since you already have an isolator, and yellow top...consider that step two.

Later...

NG

that was my 2000th post WOOT!!!
teh pst hore!!!

I agree with everything except the deep cycle battery. Why do big audio installations include a deep cycle battery? It doesn't deep cycle at all unless you run it dead. The lack of deeply cycling them corodes the lead plates.

The ONLY reason to use a deep cycle in an audio application is if you frequently use the audio when the car is off to the point where it falls below voltage that is useable by audio anyway.

Especially with the moderate wattage you're using in your car. Just use a regular cranking battery and avoid the headaches.

I agree with everything except the deep cycle battery. Why do big audio installations include a deep cycle battery? It doesn't deep cycle at all unless you run it dead. The lack of deeply cycling them corodes the lead plates.

The ONLY reason to use a deep cycle in an audio application is if you frequently use the audio when the car is off to the point where it falls below voltage that is useable by audio anyway.

Especially with the moderate wattage you're using in your car. Just use a regular cranking battery and avoid the headaches.

Well, if you have an audio system that is HIGH load...a deep cycle is better suited for taking hits than any regular battery. So, if you still have a stock alternator, and take voltage hits on a regular basis...a deep cycle is better suite for this.

NG

and for SPL a good majority of the "street" calsses dont alow cranking so deep cycle is best ;)

and for SPL a good majority of the "street" calsses dont alow cranking so deep cycle is best ;)

What the fuck are you talking about?

NG

a LOT of SPL competitions (especially around here) dont allow cranking of the engine untill you reach either a certian wattage or a certian cone area... but then agian you know how shitty SPL comps localy are. :)

the big hitters in SPL don't use "normal" batteries. They put 2 - 7 or 8 volt batteries in series for each amp, so they are running the amps at 15-17 volts and using amps with loosely regualted power supplies so they squeeze out every last volt. And those amps often put them in a lower power category too since they typically push 75-100% more power at 14 or 15 volts than they do at 12V.

Paul's right again /\/\/\/\/\/\ That's one of the reasons I love older amps. Trust me, the newer classD amps are great for the street but they can be hard to "cheat" with. Give me an old Linear Power AB amp rated at 100watts and easily get well over that by "cheating" by the means Paul said or using a voltage regular(only if you can idle your car during aound off).

wow poncho acts like that is some secret no one knows about...

too bad in the SPL hatch i help out on last year we used 4 8volt batteries wired in sereis/parallel yo yeild 17v when all where charged...

sorry, had to bust ya chops :)

wow poncho acts like that is some secret no one knows about...

too bad in the SPL hatch i help out on last year we used 4 8volt batteries wired in sereis/parallel yo yeild 17v when all where charged...

sorry, had to bust ya chops :)

lol...

Oh...and before...when you referred to "cranking" I thought you meant Regular Starting Batteries...

NG

oh, sorry, i need to lean how to word my sentences better :(

i tell you though, that civic hatch pounded for what i was used to at the time, i never even though of doing something like that untill one of our crew's members dad suggested it...

Yep, CB never passed the English/grammer classes by much.

Yeah, the battery trick is an old school thing and very simple if you think about it. The first time I did it was in the late 80's on a tiny little Targa amp.