Brake job procedure for 2001 Z71

My 2001 Z71 would not pass inspection due to the parking brakes not holding. I ordered new shoes/clips (thanks to another thread) from GMPartsdirect. Just arrived, so tomorrow is the big day. Big Red has 88K miles, and never had a brake job, so while I'm at it, gonna change front & rear pads, and service everything. I've changed alot of brake pads but never ABS. From what I've read, seems pretty straight-forward. Does anyone have any "gotchas" or tips I might find helpful? If no response, guess I'll spend the bucks and buy the manual (which ones best?)

Thanks in Texas!

i know you are supposed to be careful when compressing the pistons. and i would get a haynes.

I did a brake job on my 99 at about the same mileage. I replaced all four rotors plus the pads. Very straight forward,no surprises except that some of the bolts are extremely tight. I would suggest replacing all the rotors,not just the pads. Factory rotors seem to be inferior and dont take to machining very well and warp easily.

What I did have problems with was the E brake. I put it back together the best I could,but it never worked correctly. I brought it in to a garage and they took it apart and repaired it. It cost me about maybe 50 bucks labor.My E brake shoes were fine,just not installed properly. Use care taking off the rotors. The E brake shoes will catch on the rotors and if you reef on the rotor too hard,the clips will bend and break. Yes,some sort of manual would be a good idea.

GM went back to drum brakes in i think 04 or 05 because of this crappy E brake setup. I hope you can get it working. Mine still doesn't hold like the good ol` rear drum brake system.:disappoin

Make Sure And Use Jack Stands...
Pull Right And Left Tires And Service One Side At A Time So You Will Be Able To Reference Back And Forth..this Will Pretty Much Dummy Proof The Job..
**********************************
As For Purchasing A Manual,,,
I Can Only Say Dduuuuhhhhh,,,,
Have You Heard The Saying"when All Else Fails Read The Directions"
Take Your Time And Read Through The Directions And Purchase Any Tools Which Will Facilitate The Job...
Be Carefull With Any Sensors Which May Be In The Area..use Anti-sieze On All Bolts...using Gloves For This Nasty Job Will Help..i Use Nitrils..
Good Luck
Note: Proper Previous Planning Prevents Piss Pour Performance.lp7

Make Sure And Use Jack Stands...
Pull Right And Left Tires And Service One Side At A Time So You Will Be Able To Reference Back And Forth..this Will Pretty Much Dummy Proof The Job..
**********************************
As For Purchasing A Manual,,,
I Can Only Say Dduuuuhhhhh,,,,
Have You Heard The Saying"when All Else Fails Read The Directions"
Take Your Time And Read Through The Directions And Purchase Any Tools Which Will Facilitate The Job...
Be Carefull With Any Sensors Which May Be In The Area..use Anti-sieze On All Bolts...using Gloves For This Nasty Job Will Help..i Use Nitrils..
Good Luck
Note: Proper Previous Planning Prevents Piss Pour Performance.lp7

That would be Piss "Poor" Performance.
"Piss Pour" would be like if you pissed in an empty beer bottle while driving and then "poured" it out the window. :icon16: :eek7:

That would be Piss "Poor" Performance.
"Piss Pour" would be like if you pissed in an empty beer bottle while driving and then "poured" it out the window. :icon16: :eek7:
THANKS THAT IS ON MY SIG SO I WILL NEED TO CORRECT IT.....I WAS SITTING IN TRAFFIC ONE DAY IN HOUSTON, TX. AND I HAD TO DO WHAT YOU DESCRIBED EXCEPT OF COURSE IT WAS NOT A BEER BOTTLE!!!!
OPEN CONTAINER LAW..... :evillol:

You will need a six point socket and a stout breaker bar for the caliper bolts. You may even need a pipe cheater (I did). Make sure your self-adjusters are freed up and the little rubber boots that keep water out are in good shape. I assume you don't live in the rust belt - you would never have gotten to that mileage here without a full brake job, so you may not need to pull the parking brake adjuster mounting part. To pull that piece means pulling the axles and installing new seals.

Good Luck!

Thanks for the cheater tip - it was necessary! Well, after $250.00 in new parts & supplies, I still don't have good emergency brakes. I tried the manual's suggestion on the adjustment "Turn the adjuster until the rotor just drags, then remove the rotor and back it off a little" more or less. BS!

I'll try with my calipers tonite, but .026 is hard to read. I'd appreciate anyone else's trick or tip!

When you did the inspection what did they do to "Test/Srew" you??? I am wondering how tight the e-brake needs to be. And to think your headlights could be pointed one to the sky and one two feet in front of the car and they can't make you do a thing. Makes you wonder..... :screwy: