92 suburban radiator leak at EOC fitting
ty250
06-10-2005, 11:22 AM
My 92 suburban with 5.7 is "weeping" at the upper Engine Oil Cooler fitting. I have to add about 2 qt coolant every 1000 miles.
The radiator has a metal clip that threads over the fitting that I imagine compresses an O ring or a gasket against the plastic tank. Could I be so lucky to fix this with a new seal or am I looking for a new radiator?
thanks
The radiator has a metal clip that threads over the fitting that I imagine compresses an O ring or a gasket against the plastic tank. Could I be so lucky to fix this with a new seal or am I looking for a new radiator?
thanks
NoEcm
06-10-2005, 07:04 PM
I just took apart a radiator from a 96 and both the left and right tanks are sitting on my workbench right now. The oil cooler has nuts 1 3/4" across holding the cooler to tank.
Looking at how it is constructed you might just be able to replace both the upper and lower oil cooler gaskets without separating the tank from the core. Not sure if the radiator from a 92 is the same as a 96 but here is how I would fix a radiator from a 96:
With the radiator removed from the car and laying flat on a workbench remove both nuts from the oil cooler. The oil cooler will drop into the tank around 1". With the oil cooler dropped into the tank you have a 1 1/4" hole to work in. Using a small screwdriver with the tip bent to an "L" you should be able to remove the gaskets from the upper and lower fittings. I would make sure to clean any left over gasket material left on the old cooler flanges before putting on the new gaskets.
You'll also need to figure out how to keep the new gasket from shifting on the neck during reassembly. A small amount of some sort of non-hardening adhesive maybe?
Also, if your fingers are small enough you should clean the inside of the tank where the new gaskets will mate.
After you've placed the gaskets on the oil cooler neck you can then use that "L" shaped screwdriver to pull the oil cooler neck back through the hole(s) in the radiator at which time you can put the nuts back on and tighten. (Having 2 "L" shaped screwdrivers and a 2nd person to help with this reassembly step would certainly help to ensure that the gaskets go back on straight.)
If it works you've saved a couple of hundred dollars and if it doesn't you're out the price of the gaskets which should be cheap enough.
If you decide to try it good luck and post your results.
Looking at how it is constructed you might just be able to replace both the upper and lower oil cooler gaskets without separating the tank from the core. Not sure if the radiator from a 92 is the same as a 96 but here is how I would fix a radiator from a 96:
With the radiator removed from the car and laying flat on a workbench remove both nuts from the oil cooler. The oil cooler will drop into the tank around 1". With the oil cooler dropped into the tank you have a 1 1/4" hole to work in. Using a small screwdriver with the tip bent to an "L" you should be able to remove the gaskets from the upper and lower fittings. I would make sure to clean any left over gasket material left on the old cooler flanges before putting on the new gaskets.
You'll also need to figure out how to keep the new gasket from shifting on the neck during reassembly. A small amount of some sort of non-hardening adhesive maybe?
Also, if your fingers are small enough you should clean the inside of the tank where the new gaskets will mate.
After you've placed the gaskets on the oil cooler neck you can then use that "L" shaped screwdriver to pull the oil cooler neck back through the hole(s) in the radiator at which time you can put the nuts back on and tighten. (Having 2 "L" shaped screwdrivers and a 2nd person to help with this reassembly step would certainly help to ensure that the gaskets go back on straight.)
If it works you've saved a couple of hundred dollars and if it doesn't you're out the price of the gaskets which should be cheap enough.
If you decide to try it good luck and post your results.
ty250
06-21-2005, 01:24 PM
Thanks for the info NoEcm. Before I read it I discussed the problem with my bud at O'Reilly's autoparts. He said he'd seen this before and suggected I siphon about a gallon of coolant out, remove the oil cooler nut (left-hand threads!) squirt the recess around the fitting with hi-temp RTV and then torque the nut back on. He reasoning was the pressure of the nut on the RTV would seal the leak.
That did the trick and the puddle I used to get under the car is gone BUT I still get a few drops of coolant leaking. These are coming from the intersection of where the tank and core meet. So I bought myself a little time but the radiator is still shot. I ordered a new one this morning.
thanks again!
I just took apart a radiator from a 96 and both the left and right tanks are sitting on my workbench right now. The oil cooler has nuts 1 3/4" across holding the cooler to tank.
Looking at how it is constructed you might just be able to replace both the upper and lower oil cooler gaskets without separating the tank from the core. Not sure if the radiator from a 92 is the same as a 96 but here is how I would fix a radiator from a 96:
With the radiator removed from the car and laying flat on a workbench remove both nuts from the oil cooler. The oil cooler will drop into the tank around 1". With the oil cooler dropped into the tank you have a 1 1/4" hole to work in. Using a small screwdriver with the tip bent to an "L" you should be able to remove the gaskets from the upper and lower fittings. I would make sure to clean any left over gasket material left on the old cooler flanges before putting on the new gaskets.
You'll also need to figure out how to keep the new gasket from shifting on the neck during reassembly. A small amount of some sort of non-hardening adhesive maybe?
Also, if your fingers are small enough you should clean the inside of the tank where the new gaskets will mate.
After you've placed the gaskets on the oil cooler neck you can then use that "L" shaped screwdriver to pull the oil cooler neck back through the hole(s) in the radiator at which time you can put the nuts back on and tighten. (Having 2 "L" shaped screwdrivers and a 2nd person to help with this reassembly step would certainly help to ensure that the gaskets go back on straight.)
If it works you've saved a couple of hundred dollars and if it doesn't you're out the price of the gaskets which should be cheap enough.
If you decide to try it good luck and post your results.
That did the trick and the puddle I used to get under the car is gone BUT I still get a few drops of coolant leaking. These are coming from the intersection of where the tank and core meet. So I bought myself a little time but the radiator is still shot. I ordered a new one this morning.
thanks again!
I just took apart a radiator from a 96 and both the left and right tanks are sitting on my workbench right now. The oil cooler has nuts 1 3/4" across holding the cooler to tank.
Looking at how it is constructed you might just be able to replace both the upper and lower oil cooler gaskets without separating the tank from the core. Not sure if the radiator from a 92 is the same as a 96 but here is how I would fix a radiator from a 96:
With the radiator removed from the car and laying flat on a workbench remove both nuts from the oil cooler. The oil cooler will drop into the tank around 1". With the oil cooler dropped into the tank you have a 1 1/4" hole to work in. Using a small screwdriver with the tip bent to an "L" you should be able to remove the gaskets from the upper and lower fittings. I would make sure to clean any left over gasket material left on the old cooler flanges before putting on the new gaskets.
You'll also need to figure out how to keep the new gasket from shifting on the neck during reassembly. A small amount of some sort of non-hardening adhesive maybe?
Also, if your fingers are small enough you should clean the inside of the tank where the new gaskets will mate.
After you've placed the gaskets on the oil cooler neck you can then use that "L" shaped screwdriver to pull the oil cooler neck back through the hole(s) in the radiator at which time you can put the nuts back on and tighten. (Having 2 "L" shaped screwdrivers and a 2nd person to help with this reassembly step would certainly help to ensure that the gaskets go back on straight.)
If it works you've saved a couple of hundred dollars and if it doesn't you're out the price of the gaskets which should be cheap enough.
If you decide to try it good luck and post your results.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2025