Watch out Skylines. Here comes the Mustang GT-R

Here's my scratchbuilt 05 Mustang in the badass GT-R trim.
The exterior is basically done except for a few details like the PE fasteners.

The project was started with the Transformer Grimlock, and I was using the toy's very accurate Mustang body panels to make my own 05 Mustang GT model in 1/24 scale. In fact, this Grimlock Mustang is so well done that I no longer call it a toy, but a serious collectible! Also, the scale has to be 1/24, because all of my sports car models are in that scale.

Then, I saw some pictures of the GT-R Concept online, and decided to take an extra step, a big step. (The 05 GT is still on the workbench, so are other variations, like the new GT500 and FR500C Grand-Am racer.) To represent the GT-R Concept's unique looks, the front and rear bumpers were modified, and the fender flares were widened. The race car style wing was added, and the very spartan interior was completely scratchbuilt from various raw materials. The wheels were also made from styrene sheet, and the tires are borrowed from one of the Pegasus tire/wheel sets.

I'm still making the Cammer V8 and the suspension, so the model is technically still in-progress, but I couldn't wait to show it. My digican seems dying, so the colors seem off, but I'll try to get some better pictures with my Canon SLR and post them later. Stay tuned.


http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p1010091m.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p1010096m.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p1010097m.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p1010099m.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p1010101m.jpg

Insane model making!!! Excellent work

not the most subtle of bodykits, this one, but surely one of the best made in scale, it looks the real deal. Have you got any progress pictured laying around of your bodykit making? I 'd love to see the master at work, and maybe steal some techniques too :)

Olivier

Does it still transform? :D

Seriously tho, awesome model. Looks like the real deal.

OK, you say that this model is scratchbuilt? If that is the case and you have taken the raw materials and sculpted the entire thing then it looks fantastic. But it doesn't sound like that is the case at all. Do you even know what scratchbuilt means?

OK, you say that this model is scratchbuilt? If that is the case and you have taken the raw materials and sculpted the entire thing then it looks fantastic. But it doesn't sound like that is the case at all. Do you even know what scratchbuilt means?


Tikiman, I suggest you firstly do a search about Hiroaki, check his website before you make such harsh comments, and you will see you've been horribly wrong.

Sheesh, man, well I guess just because it's so well made, that it doesnt' show much all of it is scrachbuilt.

Olivier

edit :

is this really what you started out with? it seems so incredible !
http://www.fantofan.jp/news/mag/dengekihobby/may2005-6.jpg

However good the modifications are, it doesn't mean it is scratchbuilt is all i was saying. It does look good and if that transformer is what he started with then he's done a fantastic job.

Very nice! I love this car, ever since seeing pics of the 1:1 and seeing it at the auto show.

I assume this is the same model that I saw in a few photo albums from the Heartland Nationals this past weekend? Nice to get some information on the model. I'm anxiously awaiting Revell's kit this fall...or winter...or whenever they get around to it...

Amazing modelling, I love the real car and I love the replica you've made. Awesome work!!

I'm in confused awe....

Hirofkd, is that Mustang of yours really a Transformer? It opens up into a robot as well?

Sorry for the dumb question but i've admired your work since I became a member 6 mths ago and I just wanna know if that awsome build at the top of the thread has even more awsomeness that I was completely unaware of :)

Whatever the case may be - super job!!

Wow, looks so great!

Did you use the plastic or diecast transformer? Looks freakin awsome!!! Great job on the trasnformation..heh..

Frank X.

OK, you say that this model is scratchbuilt? If that is the case and you have taken the raw materials and sculpted the entire thing then it looks fantastic. But it doesn't sound like that is the case at all. Do you even know what scratchbuilt means?

Just because he didn't scuplt the body himself dosen't mean he can't call this scratchbuilt. He did say the interior, suspension, motor, bodykit, and wheels are scratchbuilt. He turned a transformer into a great looking model car. WTF?

I wish I knew that was you @ the Heartland Nationals!!! Here's some pics of that awesome car from the show.
http://images9.fotki.com/v178/photos/2/224343/2277923/DSC00161-vi.jpg
http://images7.fotki.com/v136/photos/5/54246/2269310/IMG_0140-vi.jpg
http://images8.fotki.com/v160/photos/2/219739/2269443/DSC01483-vi.jpg
Hey folks, pictures do not do this model justice. It must be seen in person to appreciate the detail and craftmanship. Congrats on winning First Place - Miscellaneous @ Heartland.

Hope to see you @ Heartland next year!!!
Marc

Wow! Great build, and great ingeniuty!

.
http://images9.fotki.com/v178/photos/2/224343/2277923/DSC00161-vi.jpg


Can you bring me some pics to this car what is on the background ?

So I guess this was the special project you were working on before heading up to Kansas for the show. Looks great. I'm anxious to see this in person. Got any in-progress pics of the body going together?

Weren't you working on another Transformers project? I recall you mention something in the past.

Awesome model of a awesome car!

Beautiful! Incredible craftsmanship! That is soo sexy.

Wow! Great build and I love it!

Is the car's body really scratchbuilt? Maybe a better term if the car body panels of the Transformer toy was used is "kit-bashed". But if say the body panels were vacu-formed from plain styrene sheets using the Transformer toy as reference.... then that would've been "scratchbuilt".

But either way this kit looks soooo good and deserves to win.

LOOVEEEE this car!!

Perfect!!

> ozstrider, klutz_100
No, it no longer transforms. (sob)

> blubaja
It's Hasbro's plastic version. Takara's metal version is too expensive to sacrifice. After I decided to scrap one, I wanted to have another just for my collection. So I went to most of Toys'R'Us, Wal-Mart and Target in Houston area, and finally found the last one in Sugar Land.

> Okiemodelbuilder
I'm glad you got those pictures. My digicam is almost dying. Anyway, I might be able to get there next year, but there's no guarantee. I want to go to Japan next year, so I have to save money.

> malsheem
Yeah, the GT-R is a surprise because I usually don't build American car. But the 05 Mustang is one of few exceptions. I did say something about a Transformer based model, and that's the Viper SRT-10. Now that the Revell kit is out, I can combine it with the Transformer Viper to make a 1/24 scale replica.

The strict definition of scratchbuilding is 0% existing parts, and 100% raw material, but that's not practical. On my GT-R model, none of the original toy parts were used, and the actual work went way beyond the complexity of kitbashing, so I think the model can still qualify as scratchbuilt. Though it's not "fully" or 100% scratchbuilt, and may not quality as such in the occasions where the term is clearly defined, but I'll leave the contest judge and magazine editor to decide how much is kitbash and how much is scratchbuilt, and I'm not too concerned about the issue here on AF.

I used to be a master sculptor for commercial resin kits, and I've done a wide range of scratchbuilding from 100% scratchbuilt to a partial ones. In commercial modeling, every minute translates to the cost, so you have to work efficiently and better use as much existing material as you can.

As a side note, I asked my wife, and her verdict was... "cheater!" (Doh!)

So, here's how this "scratcheated" replica of the Mustang GT-R was made.

Roof, windshield and rear glass parts were vacuum formed. (the part in the rear was a failed attempt and wasn't used for the actual model.) The roof part is a two-layer construction, so that the window parts can be glued to a narrow step around the frame.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p3140003m.jpg

The lower half of the body was made of polyester putty. In this picture, the hood is still original, but it was replaced with a vacuum-formed piece.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p3150011m.jpg

Vacuum formed parts tend to lose details, and the ridge along the center line got dull. I restored the ridge by first placing a two-layer masking tape (1). Then, I thinly applied Tamiya Basic putty with my fingers (2). After the putty hardened, I smoothed the putty with sand paper, and then removed the tape (3). I repeated the process for the other half (4)
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p3170017m.jpg

And this is the result. This is easy to do, so I also did the same to the two curved ridges (poor description, but I don't know how to call it) on both sides. http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p3260064m.jpg

The fender flair was made by gluing a curved styrene sheet, then a patterned masking tape (symmetrical with the other side) was applied to avoid the putty to go beyond the outer arch. Then I applied polyester putty and folded the narrow masking tapes, forming a basic shape and minimizing the later sanding.
After that, the flair was sanded and smoothed.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p3190025m.jpg

The air outlet was made by cutting out the area and placing a sheet of styrene from inside.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p3230034m.jpg

The front bumper fascia is made up of four styrene pieces as shown, and the gap with the stock bumper was filled with polyester putty. The green arrow clearly shows that the window frame is stepped as I mentioned earlier.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p3240042m.jpg

I also constructed the frame of the grill and the firewall with styrene. The body shell was finished at this point, and it was ready for priming.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p3260063m.jpg

That's it for today.

Friggen awsome !!!!!!! And in my book scratchbuilt it is !!

Hmm, someone's been very busy. :biggrin: I concur with Privateer. That's a scratchbuild.

So you're going to do the same thing for the SRT-10 in 1/24? Crazy (in a good way, I think). I'm pretty anti-1/25, but that's an insane amount of work and skill to move down to 1/24.

Yep, that is scratchbuilt alright... my hats off to you hirofkd.... you The Man!

Indeed, awesome, superb modeling!

and first of all, thanks so supermuch to want to share this amazing progress with us!

I appreciate it very much.

Olivier

ahh but did you make the masking tape youself?
j/k seriously though, that's serious scratch building.
Once again I congratulate you and thank you for sharing some of your techniques.

Wow. simply Amazing. I'd definitely consider that scratchbuilt!

You were intense!! Just curious but are you planning to sell 1/24 Mustang GTR resin bodies?

Wow! thats awesome!

WOW!!! This is soooooooooooo much cooler now that I've seen what you put into it. !!!!WOW!!!!

Frank X.

Fantastic job on this car.
I have seen the real one in person, and you definately did it justice.
Great work! :)

Your skills never cease to amaze me!!:eek:

Here's a continuation of the progress.

The horse was made by foil-casting, and this is how it works. First, apply a foil over whatever you want to copy the pattern of, and trace the contour. Use a toothpick or something pointy (but not too sharp) to get to the hard-to-reach areas. Carefully lift the foil and place it on a flat surface. Then use epoxy putty or resin to fill the back. Finally cut the excess area, and you're done. You can make any script or emblem by using this technique.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p3260070.jpg

The seam lines (rain gutters?) on the roof were made by simply applying narrow masking tapes before priming. The thickness of primer (two coats of gray and two coats of white) created the gap when the masking tapes were removed.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p3260073.jpg

The 05 Mustang is using a modified DEW98 platform, which is used by the Jaguar S-Type, Lincoln LS and Ford Thunderbird. I used Revell's 1/25 scale Thunderbird chassis to be somewhat accurate (LOL, I knew nobody would care), and adjusted the wheelbase with a styrene rod as shown. The back of the interior was made with styrene sheet and epoxy putty. I also made the stress-beam with styrene sheet.
CORRECTION: The 05 Mustang is not using the DEW, but is built on S197 (aka D2C and DC2), which was delived from the C1 chassis used by Mazda 3 and 05 European Focus.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p3290080.jpg

The front section was cut open to accept the engine later. The floor was made with styrene. Thought not photographed, the center tunnel was vacuum-formed and added later.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p3300089.jpg

Vacuum-formed parts tend to lose sharpness. I used it as an advantage and made the dashboard with minimum work for detailing on the master part.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p3300087.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p3300091.jpg

The seat was made from a scrap parts and it was modified to look like a Sparco. The surface texture was added with Scale Motorsport's interior spray. The decals were printed with ALPS printer.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p4010096.jpg

The spokes were made with laminar styrene. I printed some CAD-drawn patterns directly on a styrene sheet with my ALPS printer, and they were cut out and stacked together. After the master part was made, I copied it with polyester putty (Bondo body filler). The rims and tires are Pegasus 23" Lightning Chrome with the spokes removed.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5052203.jpg

Absolutely jaw droppingly speachless. I never thought it could be done with styrene. Wow. I get chills looking at it. Now I want to scratchbuild something...

Impecable work, absolutely magnificently stunning.

The inner part in the front lower opening was made up of five pieces: the top part, lower U-shaped part and three vertical splitters.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p3250044.jpg


The hood bulge was made with styrene (as a template) and polyester putty.
First, I made the top surface with a styrene sheet, and it was glued to the hood with a tiny amount of super glue. Then I masked the surrounding area with Tamiya masking tape (1). Then, I applied polyester putty (2). After the putty was cured, I carefully lifted the masking tapes and also removed the bulge with them (3). The thickness of masking tape clearly indicated the excess area of the putty. I drew a black line along one of the curves to make it easy to see in the picture (4) Because it's easy to make a pair of symmetrical masking-tape templates, this technique can be used to make a perfectly symmetrical set of fender flares, and can be adapted to other body kits, too.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p329008a.jpg


The tail light covers were vacuum formed. Here, I was test-fitting a vaccum-formed white styrene to determin if the master was correctly made. The size seemed perfect, so I vacuum formed the actual tail light covers with a sheet of clear vinyl sheet.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p4010097.jpg

I didn't notice until I copied the spokes, but the rear rims are deeper than the front. Since I was using the same rims for all four wheels, I needed to thin the tips of each rear wheel insert. But to do so evenly at all five tips seemed difficult, until I remember that I used a drilled styrene as a jig to create a number of equal-length brass pipes when I made a Moulton Bike. So, I cut out a piece of styrene as shown, and filed the excess part, leaving the exact thickness of the styrene (which was 1.0 mm).
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5052201.jpg

One of the noticeable parts in the interior was a pair of seemingly the shock gas reservoir. They were made with a combination of styrene pipes and rods made by Evergreen. The brackets are also styrene.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5220001.jpg

The fire extinguisher tank was taken from Tamiya's JTCC Accord kit, and it was modified to represent the Mustang GT-R one by adding knobs and some black pieces that I don't know what they are. I also scratchbuilt the battery with (,as you guessed it,) styrene.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5240002.jpg


Seemingly the battery cut-off switch was made with a styrene disk, a short styrene pipe and a pair of bolt-heads (also styrene). The red T-shaped part is a photo-etched piece found in Studio 27's Zakspeed Capri PE set.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5250003.jpg

Finally, how many times did I mention styrene? This is how my desktop looked like after extensive styrene work.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p3260072.jpg

That is just so totally, mind bogglingly, styrene bendingly awsome that I don't know what to say...

"Thanks for sharing" I guess is the best place to start

I feel like someone just took me for a trip round a candy factory and then said "help yourself" :)

TOTAL TALENT!!

err.....bloody hell, thats all I can say really, thats some serious top-notch work.

Dan.

AWESOME!! Truly Amazing!

ATLAST! our saviour is here
Lovely build. I could complain about the wheels but hey who am I to complain. A++

AMAZING! :thumbsup:

Totally awesome work and great step by step progress info.
Great thread :bigthumb:

This is a fantastic thread! To think I almost didn't open it because it was a Mustang (the thread author made me change my mind). Holy COW!! I am amazingly impressed. I've never been... so... impressed....

[/dies]

This is sooooooo educational. Thanks so much for going to the extra work to write it all up. Much appreciated.

Murray

Awesome! Very inspiring thread! :)

scratchbuilt....as in built from nothing? no kits? built from pure scratch? kaput? lol sorry, i am a bit drunken tonight.

That is one great looking mustang! You did a really good job on it. Keep up the good work.

I tried to lay a sheet of carbon fiber decal to cover the entire dashboard (excluding two ends) with no success. I wasted two large portions of the expensive Scale Motor Sport decal and some setting solution, so I applied decals in four sections. As long as the patterns are aligned, the seams aren't so noticeable.

Then, I coated the dashboard with Tamiya smoke gray, which made the dash look too dark, so I don't recommend this. I should have used TS-13 clear.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5250005.jpg

The dashtop was made from two sheets of plastic. I scribed some grooves at the front (green), and made a pair of cuts on both top and bottom sheets (red and light blue arrows). This way, the slits

When two halves are glued together, the seam lines lie at edges (pink arrows), making the filling and sanding easy.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5250007.jpg

I used small pieces of plastic to make the vents (green arrows). I also added small details, seemingly plastic caps to hide screws, with slices of a small plastic rod (yellow arrows).
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5260010.jpg

I glued short sections of brass rod into the grooves. After all grooves were filled with brass rods, I added another curved piece and painted the dashtop with Mr. Surfacer.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5260012.jpg

Small switches were made with styrene and brass, and the dashboard was finished.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5270016.jpg

Next time: Finishing interior

Holy cow. You are definately a master of scratchbuilding. I am learning tons of techniques with this. Thanks for posting up all the progress, I've learned a lot.

After the rollcage was installed, I glued the dashboard, and the seat. Here, I'm shaping the side impact bars. Notice that the driver side is widened outward, while the passenger side is straight.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5280033.jpg

The seatbelts are Studio27 seatbelt kit. The early show car didn't have the passenger seat, so I didn't make one. Later the real car added a seat, as seen in the Road&Track feature.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5280039.jpg

The shifter was made of a combination of styrene rods of two different sizes. The boot is Tamiya epoxy putty.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5280041.jpg

Moving on to the exterior, here's how I made the stays.

First, I cut out a styrene sheet in the desired shape (top), then I put two extremely small drops of superglue to fix the part on another sheet of plastic (middle). After trimming, filing and sanding, I carefully pried two pieces apart with a hobby knife (bottom). Superglue doesn't melt plastic, so cleaning the glue spots is very easy. This way, you can make a pair of identical parts in a matter of minutes.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5290046b.jpg

Here's a pair of vacuum formed taillight cover. It was painted with Tamiya acrylic clear red. The bottom 1/3 are reflectors, so I applied baremetal from the back side. Since the reflector has some kind of pattern, I cut out a small piece of brass mesh, and pressed it hard on the baremetal. It's unclear in these pictures, but yup, the patterns are there.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5290049b.jpg

I'm sure a lot of people will find the following technique useful: how to make a race-car wing.
Cut out a pair of plastic sheet. Make the bottom piece slightly wider than the top one. Curl them on a side of a spray can or something, and add two smaller pieces of plastic to the bottom face of the top sheet as shown. The top part is the left, and the bottom sheet is the right; both are upside down.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5300001.jpg

You don't want a wavy wing, so make sure you clamp both the leading and trailing edges when you glue the top and bottom pieces together.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5300002.jpg

Round the leading edge with a sand paper. Depending on how you make the spar between the top and bottom elements, you can make any type of airfoil you want. The winglets are also made of styrene (the orange piece).
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5300003.jpg

I added a 1.5mm-wide narrow styrene at the trailing edge to represent the Gurney Flap.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5300004.jpg

Now, the wing is ready to paint. Here, I was test-fitting to determin the angle of the wing.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=502/2825p5300005.jpg

If you want to make one of those irregular 3d wings (like the one with a raised center section), combine this technique with the one I described in the dashboard making.

Next time is how to make a simple front lip spoiler, stay tuned.

The Are No Words..................
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Great thread!!!

.......(stunned silence).........

Awesome work so far!

Perfect??? YEAHHHHHH

Awesome to se a real master in works! Keep it coming!

the interior is so awesome, keep us updated.

you're my hero

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but my Mustang GT-R model hasn't
been finished yet--it needs the engine!

I was going to finish it in time for the contest in Houston, but the
finishing work of my Diablo SE30 model took a longer than
expected, so the Mustang model ended up as a curbside once again. (I'm
pathetic.)

Anyway, this is the last step of the stage 1, where the model was presented as a curbside. The radiator was nothing but a piece of styrene, painted in black.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/mustang%20gt-r%20concept/p1010029.jpg

I scratchbuilt the front lower suspension member and the lower control arms. These are one-off parts made for the GT-R, and they look quite different from the stock ones. All I needed was styrene rod to make those relatively simple parts.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/mustang%20gt-r%20concept/p1010035.jpg

I made the stabilizer bar from a styrene sheet. The
steering rod was a modified part from Revell's Mustang Cobra kit.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/mustang%20gt-r%20concept/qp3120008.jpg

For the 2006 Houston show, I made the final version of the radiator. The core was styrene, sandwiched with photo-etched radiator faces. The front one is simple because the large portion is hidden. The back part will be more visible, so I used the more accurate Detail Master photo-etched radiator face.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/mustang%20gt-r%20concept/qp3180022.jpg

This time, it will go all the way to the finish, including a scratchbuilt Cammer 5.0, so stay tuned.

ajdhasjshldha

HOTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT