? about popits & ABS codes

Hi guys, great forum. It has really helped a lot, but there are a couple of questions that I did not find the answers for. I am working on my newest addition to my S-10 collection; 94 Blazer 4.3 "W" 4X4.
After many frustrating hours of trouble-shooting (and finally taking my wife's advice to read your forum) I have found and repaired several problems with this would be left-for-dead vehicle.
I replaced the fuel pump, filter, and pressure regulator, cleaned the IAC and EGR, replaced the TPS and MAP sensors, and checked all vacumn connections. However, when I pulled the injection spider, I noticed that the popits have no O-rings on them. Should they? If so, what would I ask for as the parts guys seem to know even less than I do about this engine. Is it possible to simply find suitable O-rings that fit? I do not know the previous owner (bank repo) and have a suspicion that the spider was installed improperly to begin with as two of the popits were "crossed" going into the wrong ports which may explain why I could never get it to run properly. I am still cleaning the intake, plenum, and other parts now. I intend to put them all back together ASAP and don't want to screw up now. Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks!

Also, could you tell me where to jumper to retrieve the ABS codes exactly... another new thing to me.

No o-rings for the CPI at the poppits. There are o-rings though where the nut kit goes into the injector

OK, Thanks. I am in process of re-installation. I have everything in except the plenum. I have another question about the cpi spider... The pressure regulator is a part of this component, however, the parts store sold me a replacement which seems identical... I replaced it... I checked the pressure and it comes up radily, but does not hold for very long. Does this mean I messed something up because it held steady before, just wouldn't remain steady while running. This was why I replaced it to begin with, only now it isn't holding pressure before starting. I just want to be sure this is normal before putting the plenum back on.

(I will come back to the ABS question once I get the engine going)
Thanks!

Did you replace the entire CPI unit or just the regulator?

Just the regulator. I have read conflicting stories about doing so and stupidity told me to listen to the parts guy who sold me the regulator...ruined the cpi now???

buy a whole new CPI unit... You'll be better off. Return the regulator/.

Good advice, but they won't take it back once opened... I suppose I will change parts stores over this $50 mistake. Over $600 already in this engine (fuel parts and sensors) and haven't driven it once. Not to mention the time. About to give up on the 4.3L Vortec.

go to advance autoparts for the CPI unit. And for god sakes, change ou the nut kit while you have it open so you don't have to worry about it again.

LOL, Advance sold me the pressure regulator.. Special order even! They may be different there, but are quite notorious for screwups here. I only went there because O'Reilly's was closed at the time, and knew if they had to order it, it would be another two days wait. I was skeptical, but since the part looked identical... well it really pays not to ASSuME anything, huh? Don't know what I will do yet, can't afford to put another $300 in it right now. Is the cpi unit salvageable at all, even for a short time???

It is salvagable, but it has to hold pressure, I forget what the pressure is suppose to be for the 95, check on here. Recheck your work on the regulator and make sure you havn't got a leak in the lines too. But yes the unit is salvagable, but you now have to fix it.

its a '94...oooops. the spider can be crossed, as the CPI fires the injector for all the cylinders at once, meaning all cylinders get fuel at the same time - it doesn't matter if they are/were crossed, as long as it was not leaking it will work.

I think I found the pressure droppage culprit> low voltage possibly? I put a new battery on when I started the project, but it has run down. After recharge, I found that the pressure holds for several hours only losing about 4-5psi just sitting not running. I suppose that may be liveable considering it holds above 55psi at that. I left the plenum off most of the day to watch for any leakage> there was none noted other than the slight drop in pressure> no signs of fuel leakage!

I would have installed new spider and nut kit if it seemed warranted, but there was no sign of "washing" and these are expensive parts to guess about. I would prefer to have to pull it again as to be wrong and replace something that doesn't need replaced. New plenum gasket was only $10 bucks and doesn't take long to do the complete job. (I obviously have more time than money, lol)

Engine still wouldn't start, so out of curiousity I pulled a plug and found the previous owner installed new plugs, only problem they are gapped at .0030. I started pulling and cleaning the carbon build-up, re-gapping as I go to .0060. I still have one side to go, but think this may be the new focus of my problems. I get frustrated working on someone else's mess. I wish I had it when it first had the problems so I would know exactly what has been done other than just knowing what I have already repaired, and what has possibly been improperly repaired.

Other new parts installed include: coil, ignition module (complete with plenty of dielectric grease), cap, rotor, air cleaner filter, pcv valve, MAP, IAC, TPS, Fuel Pump, Strainer, Fuel Filter. All codes cleared when new components were installed and memory reset, so it seems ECM is fine. Meticulous cleaning of intake and plenum. Cleaned EGR and replaced it along with a new gasket. (oil and new filter will be replaced before starting the engine)

So as you can see, I am in it too deep to stop now. I will likely be asking more questions as I go. Please bear with my ignorance of this engine as I am making attempts to learn what it takes to own and properly maintain it. It is a far cry from the 2.2 or 2.8's I am used to.

Thanks for the help thus far.

Good on the pressure

I finally got most of my blazer's issues worked out. It is running now, but I just had the exhaust system replaced from the cat back. Now it shows a code 44. Could anyone please tell me any advice on what to replace? O2 sensor? or cat? I was wondering if the extra pressure on the exhaust could have anything to do with the cat or just the 02 sensor is bad? seems weird it only happened after replacing the pipe and muffler.

Also, doesnt the 94 model have 2 oxygen sensors, and if so, which one is code 44? the book also lists a code 45 as an 02 sensor. (44=lean, 45=rich if that helps any)

Thanks.

Have your timing set with the timing wire disconnected.

Your timing is probably overly advanced causing the lean burn.

It runs great until the engine gets hot, then it starts idling rough, shuts off completely, and won't restart until it cools down. The o2 sensor has been freshly replaced and no longer stores that code. Could this possibly be the CAT or ignition stator? Thanks.