starting problem

ok, so this morning i go to start up my car (89 RS 2.8) and i put the clutch all the way down to start, but it doesnt start, it doesnt turn over at all. ive had this problem before, but this time it didnt want to start at all, i tried like 10 times before it started, usually id just kick back, let the radio turn on, pump the gas a little, then go, but this time it wouldnt start at all. anybody had this problem before? or know how to fix it? im thinking its ignition coil? but i dunno

thanks to anybody who could help!

Check simple things. Spark plugs, spark plug cables, loose connections, fuel filter, fuel pump. Come back after you get those checked out. (prolly need mechanic to check fuel pump neways, that was my problem.)

well..havent checked fuel pump and fuel filter or anything, is it easy to change the fuel filter?

the spark plugs and wires and all that were fine, i checked them, i also replaced the cap, wires and plugs like a month ½ ago.

I dont know about 2.8's specifically but for the 4th gen it was just a jack up the car, find it, unscrew, pop in new one, screw in, done. deal. like 30 mins for someone who has no clue what yer doing. there is more to it then that but that is the general idea

ill check the haynes manual :D

Nice avatar......
except the part of it being Michael...but nice

hah, thanks.

that fuel filter looks like a biznitch to get to, but what else do u think that could be, the starting problem? im stooped :\

Check if alternator is working, then check your starter, then see if its VATS acting up.

when you turn the key there's nothing at all, the engine does not turn over? Do you hear a click or a clunk sound coming from near the starter?

well.... ill try to explain, sometimes when i go to start, i press on the clutch like i always do, i turn the key all the way, wait a sec for all the electrical stuff to get set, then i turn the key the rest of the way, and nothing happens at all, just everything goes dead like it would when starting, but the engine doesnt crank, i usually gotta try that about 4-9 times before it starts up.?? what do ya guys think!?> im so stooped

sorrie....... no i dont hear a click or a clunk, nothin at all. and for the alternator, its good, its only about 9 months old, and when im driving, the voltage gauge shows normal, and the battery;s always good. but i HAVE left my lights on a couple times and drained the battry, think the battery is shot? not enough power to initiate the starter and crank the engine?

VATS, thats my guess, especially if its been building up and getting worse. have you run the car for codes?

i havent run it for codes.... i dont have the tools. i havent taken engines class yet, but uhhh..... whats a VAT?~??~? :D

maybe its a loose connection have you looked at the wires going to the starter and to the batery??

VATS - (vehicle anti-theft system)

In '89 GM started equipping camaros with their VATS system. You see the little chip in your ignition key? It has a certain resistence value. When the ignition is turned on and the VATS control module recognizes the correct value, the car is allowed to start.

Figuring out the problem yourself may prove quite difficult, you may want to bypass the VATS system:

http://www.drdetailshop.com/gmpellet.htm

you can run the car for codes without any special tools. you can use a paper clip to "flash" the codes on your check engine light. if you are looking at the the Diagnostic link connector under your steering wheel, it will look like this.

00000000
00000000

you want to unfold the paper clip and stick it in the top right two ports that are marked by an "*"

000000**
00000000

then watch the check engine light. it will begin to blink on and off. the first serise of blinks will look like this.

*flash*flash flash**flash*flash flash**flash*flash flash*

that will be a code 12, it is normal, start counting after that. any error codes will be flashed inthe same manner. for instance, a code 42 would look like this.

*flash flash flash flash*flash flash** (repeat two more times)

all error codes will be flashed three times before the next code is flashed.

as far as the VATS problem, i can almost guarantee its a broken ignition lock cylender wire. its a very common problem. and rather easy to fix so long as you have the tools to remove the steering wheel. I strongly advise against bypassing the VATS system, but thats just me.

^^^

well put 89IROC&RS

niice, thanks 89iroc, are u a chevy tech? or take some courses?


im gonna try the paper clip thing

ok so the results are...

at first the fan came on, then security llight..... then it went:

*flash* *flash flash* *flash* *flash flash*.. did that a bunch of times,

then:

*flash* *flash flash flash*

then it kept repeating the first ones a bunch of times.

code 13, lemmi take a look online and see if i can find that, im too lazy to go check the manual.

well well, looks like your O2 sensor is shot, that very well would cause your problem. Go get a new one, they should be cheap, less than 40 bucks i think, and tell us if its fixed.

oh and yes, i was a chevy tech for over a year, i was the shops corvette, electronics, and driveability technition. and also basicly an assistant shop foreman.

niiice, chevys are definately my fav cars. that would be cool to work on em.

im goin to a toyota school (dont flame me! :0 ) so hopefully ill get a job at a dealer one day.


PS thanks for runnin my codes man! i appreciate it.

i am having the same problem with my camaro, i replaced the ignition(the original key got stuck) i got a new key from the dealer and my car still wont crank over

http://www.ebaumsworld.com/forumfun/newbie6.jpg

:rofl: Been waiting to use that

Hey man, you brought back an old thread, we try not to do that, instead just make your own new one! And seeing as you're new, the mods will let this slip by.

my camaro rs would not start , at first it would after trying over and over, eventualy it wouldn't start at all.
I took the car to a mechanic they charged me a bunch of money replaced the computer, the fuel injectors, all kinds of bullshit
that worked for a couple days. then i had the same problem. I found this web site and after looking through thousands of these
discussions, some body told me to check the chip in the key to see if it was connecting, and it wasn't, so I was told to take a diode
that measured the same amount of OHMS as the chip in the key, and connect it to two wires in an orange sleve at the bottom of the
steering column. which would connect the two and compllete a circuit. which worked for a while but one day the car died and still
will not startso i am still looking for answers.


but it did work for a while here's how I did it
1. I took the chip out of the key
2. connect one of the wires in the sleve to each side (be creative)
but.... do not harm the chip....
THE CAR STARTED RIGHT UP
CHECK V.A.T.S, PASS KEY DECODER MODULE

old thread, but in answer to the above question, it sounds like they didnt give you the correct key, there are 13 different resistance values, and if they dont give you the right one the car wont start. you need to get the old key out and measure its resistance and get a key with the matching resistance value.

old thread, but in answer to the above question, it sounds like they didnt give you the correct key, there are 13 different resistance values, and if they dont give you the right one the car wont start. you need to get the old key out and measure its resistance and get a key with the matching resistance value.


thanks for you'r reply, I'll learn this site enentualy THX