Stalling when temp reaches 210F

I have a Grand Cherokee 6cyl. Have never had any problems. The other day while waiting in line at a drive thru it stalled. Pushed it to the side and waited for a couple minutes and was able to start it back up. I noticed it kept stalling when it would reach 210.F. When I try and start it back up right away it will just turn over. Please help.

Coil maybe?

I could not find anything on the subject of it cutting off at high engine temps.

It would seem that if it does this at this temp every time it's got to be a sensor!
What sensor is the question, I know that the fist thing you should do is check your engine codes, Look for my post on checking your codes, you have a on board system for doing this on your 1995 JGC.

When I read this I thought I had the answer, but after checking what year your Jeep was I found that you have a belt driven fan.

Check and see if you have any problem codes first.

Could be coil also cam position sensors can cause that problem and crankshaft position sensor.I would lean more to the coil and cam sensor. Check all.

only the 02 sensor kicks on at operating temp. Gotta be 02 sensor goin out

Thanks for all your help. I will check these sensors this weekend and see if it works. I keep you posted.. Thanks again..

It probably is those sensors. Your jeep shouldn't be running that hot anyway, unless you are towing something, or you drive like D. Patrick. see why the temp is going that high.

It probably is those sensors. Your jeep shouldn't be running that hot anyway, unless you are towing something, or you drive like D. Patrick. see why the temp is going that high.

I don't think that it's to hot! Maybe if it hit 230+ but 210 is not that bad for the summer, think of it like this the Stat is like 195 so it's not that bad...

My 99 GJC 4.7 stalls around the 210 degree mark also, it always runs really close to 210 or just under.

Does yours restart after it rests for about 20 - 30 minutes to cool down?

My Crank Position Sensor failed hard about 3 months ago and actually gave me an error code! I replaced it with a $50 one from the dealer and it ran flawless for 3 months before the intermittent stalls began.
I replaced it again with another $50 one from the dealer presuming that I might have a flakey one, but it is doing the same thing.
The outer case on the origional CPS was made of all plastic, while the replacement one has a metal mounting tab on it where it bolts to the engine.

Could this be causing it to absorb more heat?

One poster states that Crank Position Sensors are usually all or nothing, eg, not intermittent.

Another poster states that the Crank Position Sensor is a common problem with all Jeeps and that over time they become temperature sensitive.

They need electricity to work and as such, they self heat and can go into thermal runaway which causes both spark and fuel systems to go crazy. He let the vehicle cool off for 20-30 minutes after which it ran like a champ until it heated up again.

To test the CPS, Crank Position Sensor, one poster states that the Check Engine light will not illuminate at start-up, hence, not allow the engine to fire.

Another poster states that if you don't see your Check Engine Light come on (breifly) when you turn the key to the ON/START Position, then
your computer is shot!

I don't think that it's to hot! Maybe if it hit 230+ but 210 is not that bad for the summer, think of it like this the Stat is like 195 so it's not that bad...
You are correct. The JGC operating temperature is 210... plus or minus a few degrees and in hot or cold weather...the fans, thermostats, and other controls are designed to get it to and keep it at that temp. Mostly for emission reasons.
Your problem sounds heat related, but not because its running at 210.

You are correct. The JGC operating temperature is 210... plus or minus a few degrees and in hot or cold weather...the fans, thermostats, and other controls are designed to get it to and keep it at that temp. Mostly for emission reasons.
Your problem sounds heat related, but not because its running at 210.

Just finished 6 weeks of crap with wife's 98 JGC 6 cly. Replaced all sensors and computer. Nothing electicial left (so I thought). Computer scans never picked up any errors. Ran great otherwise. The end result was an electricial modual inside the fuel pump failed once it got warm. The fuel pressure passed initial testing. Was caught by road testing while pressure testing. Tired gauage to wiper arm and went for a run. It only dropped slightly but enough to cause it. They tell me its one in a million, once in a lifetime. Ha where have I heard that before. Just arranged a trade in so watch out used jeep buyers !

Do all of your gages go all the way to the left when this happens?

Mine acts like someone (Chysler Engineers) just truned the ignition key to off and all of the gauges on the instrument panel seem to power down. The gages are driven by the PCM's CCD Bus, so when they act wierd but everything else electrical still works, it just might the the PCM.

You can test the gages by pushing in the Odometer button and turning the key to RUN.

1. The Volt Meter reads zero volts. It returns to normal or about 12 volts after the PCM cools for 30 minutes and reapplies power to the CCD Bus and the gages. The engine will crank, the power windows and sun roof still work, so I listen to the radio while everyone honks and gives me the finger while I block traffic for 30 minutes. Eventually someone will come and help push it out of the road while I spread my love and frustration for Chrysler / Jeep products.

2. The Tempreture Gauge reads zero. It was running at the normal 200 - 210 degrees before it stalled and returns to about 180 after the PCM cools for 30 minutes.

3. The Fuel Gage reads zero. It was 3/4 full before the stall and returns to 3/4 after the PCM cools for 30 minutes.

4. The Fuel Pump doesn't run for the 1 second prime cycle when the key is turned to the RUN position. Bypassing the Fuel Pump Relay by jumpering connections (30 to 87) causes the Fuel Pump to run continiously (so's my proboem isn't with the fuel pump). The engine will still crank, but it won't run.

This seems to be an over-heated PCM shut down of the fuel and Ignition Systems evidenced by the gages all going to the left. The PCM is covered under the Extended Federal Emissions waranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles, I just turned over 82,000 miles and yes, Chrysler is alinating future customers over 2,000 miles although it has been acting up for months and I have been buying the repair parts through their dealership!